Oil Cooler Dimensions
#2
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Dave if you can wait until tonight I can get you the measurements when I'm off work since I have an extra one sitting around. Did you want core size and endtank sizes?
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#8
For anyone interested in upgrading their oil cooler, here is a basic parts list from Summit. List includes t-stat with appropriate fittings (can be had for cheaper with other brands through Summit), oil cooler and neceassary fittingss. The -10an line and hose ends are not included. How yopu plumb it is up to you.
AER-FBM3687
Fittings, Internal Allen Head Pipe Plug, 3/8 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$6.50 x 2
EAR-501ERL
Remote Oil Thermostat, Aluminum, Dual -10 AN Female Inlets, Dual -10 AN Female Outlets, Each
$90.69
EAR-592906ERL
Fitting, Cap, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$3.50
EAR-985010ERL
Fitting, Straight, Male -10 AN to Straight Cut Male -10 AN O-Ring, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$13.88 x 4
EAR-989410ERL
Fitting, Flare Reducer, Female -12 AN to Male -10 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$22.95 x 2
FLD-DB30618
Fluid Cooler, Engine/Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Natural, 5 7/8 in. x 21 in. x 3 in., Each
$314.99
AER-FBM3687
Fittings, Internal Allen Head Pipe Plug, 3/8 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$6.50 x 2
EAR-501ERL
Remote Oil Thermostat, Aluminum, Dual -10 AN Female Inlets, Dual -10 AN Female Outlets, Each
$90.69
EAR-592906ERL
Fitting, Cap, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$3.50
EAR-985010ERL
Fitting, Straight, Male -10 AN to Straight Cut Male -10 AN O-Ring, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$13.88 x 4
EAR-989410ERL
Fitting, Flare Reducer, Female -12 AN to Male -10 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$22.95 x 2
FLD-DB30618
Fluid Cooler, Engine/Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Natural, 5 7/8 in. x 21 in. x 3 in., Each
$314.99
#11
I can't say so from personal experience but there are many IT and other racers out there who can vouch for the effectiveness of this oil cooler. I did not figure this out on my own. I only added the t-stat to the system as my car is also driven on the street. Also, I only needed the stock dimensions to make sure I had the right part number. Those who do use it claim the system proved more effective than two stock oil coolers run in either parrallel or series.
Ask Carl Byck how his dual stock oil coolers run in series work. He still has cooling issues. Granted running them in series would not be as effective as running them in parallel but given the limited space to mount a 2nd unit, it wouldn't really matter.
More surface area, a thicker unit, a better design, the simplicity of it and gaining about a quart of oil to the system sounds good to me.
Of course oil cooling is not a problem on street only driven vehicles. But when you combine a large fmic, ~400 rwhp and 20-30 minute track sessions, it quickly becomes a problem.
I'll post back with an update to this thread with my own experience after my next track day at the end of April.
Ask Carl Byck how his dual stock oil coolers run in series work. He still has cooling issues. Granted running them in series would not be as effective as running them in parallel but given the limited space to mount a 2nd unit, it wouldn't really matter.
More surface area, a thicker unit, a better design, the simplicity of it and gaining about a quart of oil to the system sounds good to me.
Of course oil cooling is not a problem on street only driven vehicles. But when you combine a large fmic, ~400 rwhp and 20-30 minute track sessions, it quickly becomes a problem.
I'll post back with an update to this thread with my own experience after my next track day at the end of April.
Last edited by RX-Heven; 03-09-06 at 01:24 PM.
#13
Opinions are like........
When considering the cost of a new OEM oil cooler, the above aftermarket parts list seems feasible. Since the dimensions are similar, its performance should be similar. Since the OEM is a mass produced part, the aftermarket might be a better part.
Who ever said aftermarket radiators are better? Gee, but we all run out and buy one.
The only problem that I have with the above parts list is the THERMOSTAT. Typically, boingers like the "180 degree" oil /ATF cooler thermostats since most aftermarket thermos are used in multiple applications. What temp is that Earls thermostat?????
Don't quote me but the rotary requires a 150F oil thermostat. Yep, you can get it custom made my the likes of Permacool/Mocal...... but everyone seems to run the OTC 180F thermostat. IMO, its a mistake.
Who ever said aftermarket radiators are better? Gee, but we all run out and buy one.
The only problem that I have with the above parts list is the THERMOSTAT. Typically, boingers like the "180 degree" oil /ATF cooler thermostats since most aftermarket thermos are used in multiple applications. What temp is that Earls thermostat?????
Don't quote me but the rotary requires a 150F oil thermostat. Yep, you can get it custom made my the likes of Permacool/Mocal...... but everyone seems to run the OTC 180F thermostat. IMO, its a mistake.
#14
Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
sounds sweet. Are you going to be using this in conjunction with a pineapple oil pan? If so how big is your total oil system capacity gonna be bumped up?
With the new oil cooler setup described above, roughly another quart is added from the coolers increased capacity and the longer -10 line one one side. So figure I'll have increased the overall capacity of the system by roughly two quarts.
I'm also debating about whether or not to put in a 2 quart Accusmp at the same time. Most likely not though. This alone would increase the capacity by another 3-5 quarts depending on how it is plumbed.
http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html
#15
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
When considering the cost of a new OEM oil cooler, the above aftermarket parts list seems feasible. Since the dimensions are similar, its performance should be similar. Since the OEM is a mass produced part, the aftermarket might be a better part.
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
Who ever said aftermarket radiators are better? Gee, but we all run out and buy one.
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
The only problem that I have with the above parts list is the THERMOSTAT. Typically, boingers like the "180 degree" oil /ATF cooler thermostats since most aftermarket thermos are used in multiple applications. What temp is that Earls thermostat?????
Don't quote me but the rotary requires a 150F oil thermostat. Yep, you can get it custom made my the likes of Permacool/Mocal...... but everyone seems to run the OTC 180F thermostat. IMO, its a mistake.
Don't quote me but the rotary requires a 150F oil thermostat. Yep, you can get it custom made my the likes of Permacool/Mocal...... but everyone seems to run the OTC 180F thermostat. IMO, its a mistake.
#16
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Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
Since the dimensions are similar, its performance should be similar.
Don't quote me but the rotary requires a 150F oil thermostat.
#17
Opinions are like........
I haven't seen the 2 side by side. So, measured dimensions to me are meaningless. Most people can't even make change in the drivethru, what do I care what their rulers or tape measures say!
Size is meaningless without fin surface area and density.
I have a strong belief that the OEM cooler is the best. But, certain quality aftermarket MFG's make better parts 'sometimes'.
Pressure drop increases over distance. Why would there be less of a pressure drop with a longer bigger cooler?
The rotary doesn't require a water thermostat either. But we all use one. Feel free to quote the FSM for oil thermostat specs built into the cooler.
And, since many don't dump the thermal pellet. To run an oil cooler without a thermostat is foolish.
Size is meaningless without fin surface area and density.
I have a strong belief that the OEM cooler is the best. But, certain quality aftermarket MFG's make better parts 'sometimes'.
Pressure drop increases over distance. Why would there be less of a pressure drop with a longer bigger cooler?
The rotary doesn't require a water thermostat either. But we all use one. Feel free to quote the FSM for oil thermostat specs built into the cooler.
And, since many don't dump the thermal pellet. To run an oil cooler without a thermostat is foolish.
#18
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
I haven't seen the 2 side by side. So, measured dimensions to me are meaningless. Most people can't even make change in the drivethru, what do I care what their rulers or tape measures say!
Size is meaningless without fin surface area and density.
Size is meaningless without fin surface area and density.
Fin density can be too great and inhibit airflow through the cooler.
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
I have a strong belief that the OEM cooler is the best. But, certain quality aftermarket MFG's make better parts 'sometimes'.
The stock cooler is a good unit but I'll go with the tested and proven results of those that have compared the two (and in some cases with dual stock oil coolers) under race conditions. My oil temps get way too hot on the track with only the stock reconditioned oil cooler. I need to do something.
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
Pressure drop increases over distance. Why would there be less of a pressure drop with a longer bigger cooler?
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
And, since many don't dump the thermal pellet. To run an oil cooler without a thermostat is foolish.
Many racers run without an oil t-stat since any t-stat will not flow 100% to the cooler when fully open and racers are not worried about warmup or consistently running the oil to cool. ~90% flow through the cooler is about the best you get with a t-stat, not the best under race conditions.
I agree though that to run without a t-stat on a street driven vehicle is not ideal.
To repeat what NZ has already said, the t-stat is only there to facilitate warmup and ensure the oil temp stays ABOVE the minimum operating temperature. The Earls unit, or others like it will do just that and will work fine.
#19
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Originally Posted by RX-Heven
I can't say so from personal experience but there are many IT and other racers out there who can vouch for the effectiveness of this oil cooler. I did not figure this out on my own. I only added the t-stat to the system as my car is also driven on the street. Also, I only needed the stock dimensions to make sure I had the right part number. Those who do use it claim the system proved more effective than two stock oil coolers run in either parrallel or series.
#20
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Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
Most people can't even make change in the drivethru, what do I care what their rulers or tape measures say!
Pressure drop increases over distance. Why would there be less of a pressure drop with a longer bigger cooler?
The rotary doesn't require a water thermostat either. But we all use one.
#21
That was the first post I've had deleted...and it wasn't that bad. Oh well.
Yes I do have an oil temp gauge installed and it reads from the pan. Mazda doesn't recommend anything over 230' for that sensor locaton and I'll see 230'-240' sometimes wanting to climb even more. I only see these temps on the track, on the street there is no problem.
I run Royal Purple 20-50w btw.
I will not be adding this Fluidyne cooler as a second unit but as the sole primary unit. If this does not work I'll have to install my dual Setrab oil coolers under each headlight like 3rd gen R1's. At this point, that would require changing a bunch of other stuff I am not willing to do right now.
Yes I do have an oil temp gauge installed and it reads from the pan. Mazda doesn't recommend anything over 230' for that sensor locaton and I'll see 230'-240' sometimes wanting to climb even more. I only see these temps on the track, on the street there is no problem.
I run Royal Purple 20-50w btw.
I will not be adding this Fluidyne cooler as a second unit but as the sole primary unit. If this does not work I'll have to install my dual Setrab oil coolers under each headlight like 3rd gen R1's. At this point, that would require changing a bunch of other stuff I am not willing to do right now.
#22
I sold the dual Setrab oil cooler setup I had in my other widebody that the 20b was originally intended for. I decided to sell that car and keep the pop-up headlights in my vert which eliminated the space needed for the dual coolers I had. I hope this current setup will be sufficient for the 3-rotor. The oil cooler is from fluidyne. I have tracked the car with this cooler and the 400 rwhp 13b setup and saw a significant decrease in oil temps at the oil pan when compared to the stock oil cooler.
Here ya go.
Here ya go.
Last edited by RX-Heven; 11-09-06 at 11:51 AM.
#24
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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Yes I do have an oil temp gauge installed and it reads from the pan. Mazda doesn't recommend anything over 230' for that sensor locaton and I'll see 230'-240' sometimes wanting to climb even more. I only see these temps on the track, on the street there is no problem.
I run Royal Purple 20-50w btw.
I run Royal Purple 20-50w btw.
Where were the temps after the fluidyne cooler? No mention of them in the post, just that they were better.