Oil Cooler Dimensions
 

I don't have my car around now and need to know the overall dimensions of the oil cooler.

Can someone be my hero for the day and go out and measure theirs?

Thanks in advance.

Dave if you can wait until tonight I can get you the measurements when I'm off work since I have an extra one sitting around. Did you want core size and endtank sizes?

Thanks Stan!

Core size and overall dimensions would be Great.

gotcha

Stock Oil cooler dimensions
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"

Yu da man Stan

Thanks!

dp

stan is teh pimp....

For anyone interested in upgrading their oil cooler, here is a basic parts list from Summit. List includes t-stat with appropriate fittings (can be had for cheaper with other brands through Summit), oil cooler and neceassary fittingss. The -10an line and hose ends are not included. How yopu plumb it is up to you.


AER-FBM3687
Fittings, Internal Allen Head Pipe Plug, 3/8 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$6.50 x 2
EAR-501ERL
Remote Oil Thermostat, Aluminum, Dual -10 AN Female Inlets, Dual -10 AN Female Outlets, Each
$90.69
EAR-592906ERL
Fitting, Cap, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair
$3.50
EAR-985010ERL
Fitting, Straight, Male -10 AN to Straight Cut Male -10 AN O-Ring, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$13.88 x 4
EAR-989410ERL
Fitting, Flare Reducer, Female -12 AN to Male -10 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each
$22.95 x 2
FLD-DB30618
Fluid Cooler, Engine/Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Natural, 5 7/8 in. x 21 in. x 3 in., Each
$314.99

p.s.
I'm loaded :beerchug:

To add fuel to the fire, how do you know this is an upgrade? It's a very nice piece for sure but have you tested the stock cooler against it?

I can't say so from personal experience but there are many IT and other racers out there who can vouch for the effectiveness of this oil cooler. I did not figure this out on my own. I only added the t-stat to the system as my car is also driven on the street. Also, I only needed the stock dimensions to make sure I had the right part number. Those who do use it claim the system proved more effective than two stock oil coolers run in either parrallel or series.

Ask Carl Byck how his dual stock oil coolers run in series work. He still has cooling issues. Granted running them in series would not be as effective as running them in parallel but given the limited space to mount a 2nd unit, it wouldn't really matter.

More surface area, a thicker unit, a better design, the simplicity of it and gaining about a quart of oil to the system sounds good to me.

Of course oil cooling is not a problem on street only driven vehicles. But when you combine a large fmic, ~400 rwhp and 20-30 minute track sessions, it quickly becomes a problem.

I'll post back with an update to this thread with my own experience after my next track day at the end of April.

sounds sweet. Are you going to be using this in conjunction with a pineapple oil pan? If so how big is your total oil system capacity gonna be bumped up?

When considering the cost of a new OEM oil cooler, the above aftermarket parts list seems feasible. Since the dimensions are similar, its performance should be similar. Since the OEM is a mass produced part, the aftermarket might be a better part.

Who ever said aftermarket radiators are better? Gee, but we all run out and buy one.

The only problem that I have with the above parts list is the THERMOSTAT. Typically, boingers like the "180 degree" oil /ATF cooler thermostats since most aftermarket thermos are used in multiple applications. What temp is that Earls thermostat?????
Don't quote me but the rotary requires a 150F oil thermostat. Yep, you can get it custom made my the likes of Permacool/Mocal...... but everyone seems to run the OTC 180F thermostat. IMO, its a mistake.

I ordered the Pineapple pan yesterday to take advantage of the $299 intro special while it is still available. That will add about 1 quart I am told.
With the new oil cooler setup described above, roughly another quart is added from the coolers increased capacity and the longer -10 line one one side. So figure I'll have increased the overall capacity of the system by roughly two quarts.

I'm also debating about whether or not to put in a 2 quart Accusmp at the same time. Most likely not though. This alone would increase the capacity by another 3-5 quarts depending on how it is plumbed.
http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html

Similiar dimensions don't dictate how well or not one part performs vs. another.

?

The Earls t-stat begins opening at 160' and is fully open at 180'. It will work just fine.

I wouldn't call 20% greater surface area and 80% greater core volume "similar". The longer tanks mean less pressure drop is likely too.

The rotary doesn't "require" a thermostat in the oil cooler, it's simply there to bring the oil up to temp quicker by disabling the oil cooler below 150degF. It doesn't affect oil temp above that since the oil temp usually sits around 180degF. The fact that the Earls thermostat is fully opens at 180degF means it'll work fine.

I haven't seen the 2 side by side. So, measured dimensions to me are meaningless. Most people can't even make change in the drivethru, what do I care what their rulers or tape measures say!
Size is meaningless without fin surface area and density.

I have a strong belief that the OEM cooler is the best. But, certain quality aftermarket MFG's make better parts 'sometimes'.

Pressure drop increases over distance. Why would there be less of a pressure drop with a longer bigger cooler?

The rotary doesn't require a water thermostat either. But we all use one. Feel free to quote the FSM for oil thermostat specs built into the cooler.

And, since many don't dump the thermal pellet. To run an oil cooler without a thermostat is foolish.

Again, this cooler has more surface area.
Fin density can be too great and inhibit airflow through the cooler.

Your belief is based on your opinion and to quote your avatar, "Opinions are like......".
The stock cooler is a good unit but I'll go with the tested and proven results of those that have compared the two (and in some cases with dual stock oil coolers) under race conditions. My oil temps get way too hot on the track with only the stock reconditioned oil cooler. I need to do something.

Distance does play a role in pressure drop but not as much as the shape. Long and narrow is the worst design while square shapes are the best. Endtank design also contributes how much or little drop occurs.

I dumped the thermal pellet many, many builds ago.
Many racers run without an oil t-stat since any t-stat will not flow 100% to the cooler when fully open and racers are not worried about warmup or consistently running the oil to cool. ~90% flow through the cooler is about the best you get with a t-stat, not the best under race conditions.

I agree though that to run without a t-stat on a street driven vehicle is not ideal.

To repeat what NZ has already said, the t-stat is only there to facilitate warmup and ensure the oil temp stays ABOVE the minimum operating temperature. The Earls unit, or others like it will do just that and will work fine.

Seems reasonable. Do you have an oil temp gauge so temps can be compared pre and post swap? With a big front mount more oil cooler surface area can be nice on the road course but I'm not willing to install a 2nd cooler...So it would be interesting to see how this one works out for you.

So you're saying you think ilike2eatricers is too dumb to read a tape measure? Coz that's how I'd read that...

It's actually a little shorter than the stock one, not longer. But it's also a lot taller, which means the total cross-sectional area of the tubes is larger. For the same flow, more area means lower velocity, and lower velocity means less pressure drop (pressure drop increases to the square of velocity).

Totally different situation. All engines require a coolant thermostat becuase it's used to regulate coolant flow to keep the engine within a certain temp range. The oil thermostat in the stock oil cooler doesn't do that, it simply disables the cooler when the oil's cold. Above 150degF the bypass is closed and the oil cooler receives full flow until the oil temp drops below that, which would be some time after the engine has been turned off.

That was the first post I've had deleted...and it wasn't that bad. Oh well.

Yes I do have an oil temp gauge installed and it reads from the pan. Mazda doesn't recommend anything over 230' for that sensor locaton and I'll see 230'-240' sometimes wanting to climb even more. I only see these temps on the track, on the street there is no problem.
I run Royal Purple 20-50w btw.

I will not be adding this Fluidyne cooler as a second unit but as the sole primary unit. If this does not work I'll have to install my dual Setrab oil coolers under each headlight like 3rd gen R1's. At this point, that would require changing a bunch of other stuff I am not willing to do right now.

I sold the dual Setrab oil cooler setup I had in my other widebody that the 20b was originally intended for. I decided to sell that car and keep the pop-up headlights in my vert which eliminated the space needed for the dual coolers I had. I hope this current setup will be sufficient for the 3-rotor. The oil cooler is from fluidyne. I have tracked the car with this cooler and the 400 rwhp 13b setup and saw a significant decrease in oil temps at the oil pan when compared to the stock oil cooler.

Here ya go.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=177277

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=177276

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=177275

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=177273

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=177282

yuuuuuuuuuuum

I know this post was a long time ago....but the 230-240F temps were with the stock cooler, correct?

Where were the temps after the fluidyne cooler? No mention of them in the post, just that they were better.

any updates on this?