It's raining so I decided to share some of my recent progress.


I made some pins for the trunk. The plate was made in the cnc mill, the pin was an aluminum bolt turned down in the lathe and the nut is an aluminum nut. I still need to buy some linch pins, and install a lanyard but they should work out well.





Plugged the antenna hole. Still need to do final sanding but it'll do for now.



Plugged lock hole and added a cut out area so opening the hatch is easier. I still have to do some final shaping and finishing, but that can wait till I have nothing better to do. In hind sight I should have just bolted a handle to the hatch.



My monsterous seat brackets. They weigh about 2.5 lbs each which is rather heavy, but I wanted the extra rigidity for when I replace the floor pan.




My new dash. Cut the parts on the cnc mill, bent the edges in a brake and then riveted it all together.



The beginning of my harness bar. Bolts into the spots for the rear seat belts, which are perfect for this application. I'm either going to tie it into the strut towers or the trunk floor, haven't decided yet. The height is just about right and will put my harness at about a 15* angle.

 

at last someone on here thats into turning a chip ! hey i see you make your own parts -same here --i dont have any cnc machines but i do have 3 mills 3 lathes surface grinder and so on .comes in very handy building these cars .im just starting on my 2nd one (87 turbo 2)but mines going in the v-8 direction (462 big block chevy to be exact)--the extra weight on the front of mine needs adressed (ya i know its not a rotory) does anyone sell a stiffer spring for the front of these cars?---would be nice to b.s. with some one on here thats a machinist and has a good idea of what im talking about. the closest i have to cnc is my hardinge chucker lathe with a d.r.o.!! otherwise i just read the dials --old school-----later ---jason

 

My shop is fairly small. small 3 axis cnc mill, 2 manual lathes and lots of benders and other fabrication tools. I've only been doing it for a few years so I'm still collecting tools as money/space allows. A manual mill is next on the list, and a vertical bandsaw and eventually another cnc mill, although I'm not sure how I'll wedge it all into my current space.

Because I have the tools I make almost all my parts myself. I also sell parts so testing them first is often required.

Almost all lowering springs are stiffer, although depending on the weight of your engine you might not have to worry about it. The 13b fully dressed is fairly heavy. I forget the exact numbers but a ls1 is only about 100lbs heavier. once you take out power steering, ac, cruise and a few other things you can get it fairly close. Granted I'm sure your engine is going to be a fair bit heavier, but depending on how heavy you might not ever have to worry about it.

 

what i was thinking was to build a block about 3 inches thick the same profile as the plate on the strut tower and knock the studs out of it and use a long stud going thru all of it to the original holes-should raise the car a bit in the front .many ways to skin a cat. my last one was kinda low in the front and it was a 327. my garage is 50 by 30 and 1/2 of it is full of machines-also helps to have a job as a machinist as well+make some extra money makin parts for car buddys-i have a 67 ss camaro as well -kinda old hat anymore the mazda rides way better than that car (it is an original restored car)--are you running a rotory in yours?

 

Yes I'm staying rotary. I'm not sure yet what I'll be doing for power adders, but whatever it is, it'll be with the 13b unless I find a good deal on a renisis motor.

 

Progress looks good so far.
I see you weren't able to get that hatch seal out in 1 piece though.

 

Somewhat OT I realize, but do you have some links about where one could learn more about using and buying a 'small 3 axis cnc mill'.

Nope, I am not a machinist, but always interested in learning.
Asking someone that knows is always better than random googling.

 

lol nope.

For home use I'd probably convert a cheap manual mill. Check out cnczone.com there is a wealth of information on building/converting machines, buying various brands and almost anything you might want to learn about.

 

a good bridgeport mill can be had at a reasonable price -just make sure you get one thats single phase or you will have to get a phase converter--then you have to get tooling and a vise ---my kurt vise with the compound cost me around 600.00 like 4 years ago --they are a high end vise though ---at the very least get one that you can key to the t-slots on the machine that way you can take it on and off and it will remain straight to the machine ---a boring head (to bore various size holes is very usefull)---jason

 

Nice info, thanks!

 

ive went a lil over board in my garage -50x30 3 mills 3 lathes surface grinder press 2 drill presses huge 3/4 hrs.baldor buffer ---way too much stuff-and still find the need for more sometimes-my bridgeport is a j-head 1957 r-8 colletts --very very handy --you can find a good one for around 2,500 -just wish mine had a power feed-also have a HUGE brown and sharp mill -that ones a hog i can run a 6 inch 14 insert cutter on it (cat #40 taper )it throws chips 10 foot or better---also have a brown and sharp horizantal --dont use that guy much --a vertical band saw and a bridgeport would be a good start---none of its cheap but just keep collecting

 

Sweet, there are some metal heads here after all! I dont have much in my garage: MIG, TIG, plasma, 9" cold saw, 12" disc sander, 10ton press, and hand-power tools abound. I do have access to my friends muscle car shop which has the machining equipment: Fadal 30x16 VMC, Jet engine lathe, Jet vertical mill, ercolina rotary bender, small shear and pan break. They dont have much tooling for, well any of it but I can handle buying my own cutters/holders as a trade off for using the machines. I also have their cad/cam software so the only difficult part for one-of cnc parts is the fixturing. I would much rather make a part than buy one. Anyhoo, just wanted to say hello.

 

Progress has been slower then I would like, especially because I keep coming up with more things to do.

Fuel filler door shaved.



Harness bar welded and installed. I was shocked at how much chassis stiffness this added. Even with the car gutted and all the door seals removed, they close with a nice solid thunk.



I removed the intake manifold to do some work on it and found that the engine has been ported. Judging by the sound when it runs it's a mild street port.



5 gallon cell mounted. I had to custom make the cap for the filler relocation I did. Still need to mount the battery on the right before I make a new floor. Still need to mount and plumb the fuel pump.



Filler relocated to the back. I'm thinking of removing the third brake light an putting the battery cut off there. Yes I know my driveway is a mess .... too many projects on the go at once makes it hard to keep everything tidy.



Still need to do a bit of welding and filling, but I'm happy with the location. The only draw back is that it's a bit hard to tell how full the cell is.



Sunroof removed and a 0.032" aluminium piece riveted in place.

 

does that tank not sit way low?

 

No, it's just the pictures. The bottom of the bumper has been trimmed about 2 inches. The bottom of the cell is higher then the stock spare tire well so I don't expect any problems.

 

looks like your makin some progress.i sold my last 87 rx to my brother it was a 327 chevy and a muncie 4 speed .first time he took it to the drag strip he broke the drivers axle off like a twig!it even broke the flange off that bolts the axle assembly to the diff. so now he is looking for a rearend to replace that one -the grannys 8.8 kit looks like it runs almost 3000.00! sad thing is the engine i believe only puts out around 325 horse power but a 4 speed with a v-8 in that car is a blast ---if i blow the rear out of mine with the big block and my m-22 there is no way im payin that kind of money for a rear end ---ill narrow my own and step up to a 9 inch------later--jason

 

looks good

 

What material did you use for the fuel cell support? Looks like square stock but hard to tell.