Questions on making an Exhaust System...
Ok, all I have to back up my welding skills is that I passed the I-CAR test at school. Now, how hard will it be to make an exhaust that starts from the downpipe, all the way to the end. This is going on an 87 N/A FC. I want a resonator, or silencer thing so it won't be loud.
I plan on this to be 2.5" diameter pipe, that goes to the, either 2.75" or 3" muffler, no dual.
I don't have a mandrel to bend the pipe
So, could I pull this off?
I plan on this to be 2.5" diameter pipe, that goes to the, either 2.75" or 3" muffler, no dual.
I don't have a mandrel to bend the pipe
So, could I pull this off?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
The best advice when building an exhaust is to start at the front of the car and built it in sections. Make the downpipe, then midpipe, then catback. Fully weld each section before moving on to the next. If you don't, then it's almost certain that it won't fit together. Stainless moves a lot during welding. Tack heavily and let the area cool before you move downstream.
If you plan out your route and work in short sections, it's not that hard.
If you plan out your route and work in short sections, it's not that hard.
Good advice Aaron Cake.
What I don't get is how I can plan out the hangers, and what flanges i need. I've been studying the Mazdatrix pics, and the Haynes manual pics, and I can't picture what the straight cat would look like. I don't know were I can cut corners, I guess is what I'm trying to say.
What I don't get is how I can plan out the hangers, and what flanges i need. I've been studying the Mazdatrix pics, and the Haynes manual pics, and I can't picture what the straight cat would look like. I don't know were I can cut corners, I guess is what I'm trying to say.
for hangers I used round stock from home depot, put it in a vice and used a wrench to make the 90º bends and a burn-O-matic and hammer to form it around the pipe, its cheap and easy to work. as far as flanges go ball type makes this stuff SO easy, but they are a little hard on the bank and if done wrong *or using a cheep kit* flow will suffer as well.
Here is the rough draft:

How long should the pipes be?
How big should the resonator be?
Thanks for the help. I'm a visual learner
The welder I will use is a metal arc welder.

How long should the pipes be?
How big should the resonator be?
Thanks for the help. I'm a visual learner
The welder I will use is a metal arc welder.
Last edited by lonetlan; Feb 10, 2009 at 06:59 PM. Reason: still confused
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Magnaflow cans too
1 - 3" in, dual 2.5" out
2 - 2.5" in 2.5" out
Why use cheap carbon steel when stainless can be had in a day or two? Especially if the rest of the exhaust is stainless?
Onlinemetals.com
metalsdepot.com
metalssupermarket.com
all have stainless round stock in stock. There once was a Metals Supermarket around the corner from me, know they are ~80 miles away but UPS ground gets it to me overnight and they ARE CHEAPER THAN THE HOME CHEPOT. Of course you'll probably need an oxy/ace tourch to properly form it, I used 3/8" for my hangers.
1 - 3" in, dual 2.5" out
2 - 2.5" in 2.5" out
for hangers I used round stock from home depot, put it in a vice and used a wrench to make the 90º bends and a burn-O-matic and hammer to form it around the pipe, its cheap and easy to work. as far as flanges go ball type makes this stuff SO easy, but they are a little hard on the bank and if done wrong *or using a cheep kit* flow will suffer as well.
Onlinemetals.com
metalsdepot.com
metalssupermarket.com
all have stainless round stock in stock. There once was a Metals Supermarket around the corner from me, know they are ~80 miles away but UPS ground gets it to me overnight and they ARE CHEAPER THAN THE HOME CHEPOT. Of course you'll probably need an oxy/ace tourch to properly form it, I used 3/8" for my hangers.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...d=19&top_cat=1
a lot of places use .049 wall. so .065 will work just fine. and you dont need any odd alloy. just know that SS is a lot softer than carbon and needs a lot less amps.
What set up do you have?
a lot of places use .049 wall. so .065 will work just fine. and you dont need any odd alloy. just know that SS is a lot softer than carbon and needs a lot less amps.
What set up do you have?
I'm going to use a friends welder, I don't know what it is, but I'll post up what it is when I use it.
How long of a pipe should I go get?
Also, There are no emissions tests here, so what should I use for the space where the catalytic converter goes? I'm trying to get the sort of deep idle noise, but a clean sound of acceleration. Will Magnaflow do this?
How long of a pipe should I go get?
Also, There are no emissions tests here, so what should I use for the space where the catalytic converter goes? I'm trying to get the sort of deep idle noise, but a clean sound of acceleration. Will Magnaflow do this?
How long of a pipe should I order? I'm thinking of 6'(72") These are the 2.5"OD and .065 wall that nillachaz recommended
Does the onlinemetals website also have those "U" shaped bent tubing, so I can smooth out this creation?
Does the onlinemetals website also have those "U" shaped bent tubing, so I can smooth out this creation?
3 posts above I said go through summit for the magnaflow elbows, "L's" etc.
You need to get under your car and start planning this thing out and decide how many feet of strait to order, and what degree and how many of each 45*, 90*, 180* bends to buy.
You need to get under your car and start planning this thing out and decide how many feet of strait to order, and what degree and how many of each 45*, 90*, 180* bends to buy.
i have a flex pipe in my dp, one on the recirculation thingy for my wastegate and i have some flexpipe in the rear because it was a hell of a lot cheaper than using mandrel bends
I've got a flexpipe right at the end of my downpipe right before the first Magnaflow can.
I don't know about it being cheaper than mandrel bends though, we MUST be talking about different flex pipe. I was paying ~$20 per bend
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
The all stainless flex coupler I got was ~$65 for a 4 inch length. In all honesty it doesn't flex as much as I'd like so I'll probably cut it out and put an 8" one in instead
I don't know about it being cheaper than mandrel bends though, we MUST be talking about different flex pipe. I was paying ~$20 per bend
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
The all stainless flex coupler I got was ~$65 for a 4 inch length. In all honesty it doesn't flex as much as I'd like so I'll probably cut it out and put an 8" one in instead
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