I am in the US Air Force stationed at various overseas locations, @ the moment I am deployed in Afghanistan.

I've got a friend that is willin to sell me his RX7 for a song, if I told you how much, I'm sure there would be haters. I've noticed this car for past few years, but never asked about it because I didn't think he was willin to sell it. His claim to sellin it was that he has no time, he like to drive quick cars, but doesn't want to work on it. I live in Germany as my current assignment, so I am assuming that the rotory world in Europe is kinda a PITA!!

So the good news, its a stock 94 with a rear Apexi rear muffler with about 95K, but unfortunetly its an automatic. OK, the bad news is the car hasn't been started for the last year and a half and of course the battery is dead, so when I get back, which will be at the end of the month, I will go check it out.

Biggest question is, What do I need to look for before startin the engine???, I am primarily a subie guy, I've got a Forester XT tuned to 313 AWHP, brembo'd and dropped, so I am no stranger to workin on my own stuff, i have enjoyed takin the forester to the Nurburgring, but now I am startin to crave a car thats meant to handle.

Any suggestions would be really appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Charlie

 

There's a FAQ sticky with a list on what to check for when buying one.

My suggestion is compression test the engine no matter what. It'll tell you everything you need to know about the engines health.

I'm stationed at spangdahlem if you'd like help checking out the car.

 

Automatic? Boo

 

Compression test engine first off best advice

 

Agreed, but it can be converted

 

That can, down the road, I've got a compression tester, what reading should I be gettin, also the fuel has prob sat in it for a while, prob best to remove that crap and get another tank full.

 

The factory service manual has a good guide for compression testing as well as a chart on psi/rpm.

Best case would be somewhere around 100psi. The biggest thing to look for is uneven compression on each rotor. You'll be looking for 3 readings (one for each face of the rotar).
Good: 100, 100, 100
Bad: 100, 60, 60

Those are just examples. I'm not sure of your knowledge on this engine so I'm trying to explain as best as I can.

 

Thats great info, I/m learnin as I go!!!

 

I might look ya up since am stationed in Geilenkirchen NATO base, I'm bout 2hrs from ya, but I have some really good friends down there too!! Just crossin my fingers the engine turns over without too many hic-ups!!