tandolla

iTrader: (1)

MY goal for this thread is to help me narrow my options down for what ECU i want. What i am thinking is a Haltech E8, but i didnt know if maby a megasquirt or a microtech might be better for the setup i want.

My Goals for this car is about 350-400 rwhp

What my car has now:
88 GXL w/ JDM TII
Stock Ports
Stock Internals
TII Drive Line
FMIC (not sure size exactly but its big enough) w/ 2.75 piping
FCD
Emissions Removed
SS Auto Chrome Dual 3" - 2.5"(i believe) turbo back exhaust
6 puck clutch
Taurus E-fans
S-AFC II
there might be more but i cant think of it at the moment.

My plans:

- BNR Stage 4 - " The turbo upgrade consists of a P trim turbine wheel, 60-1 compressor wheel, 35mm wastegate port, and the trick is in the porting of the turbine housing. A 360 thrust bearing is standard on the stage 4. The turbocharger is common, but we specialize on getting out what you put in! The turbine housing is opened up tremendously therefore decreasing backpressure. Not only did we make 400+RWHP, we did it using a factory style internal wastegate! This turbocharger upgrade is bolt up and no fabrication is required."

- 1200cc Primary (let me know if i need bigger)
- 800cc Secondary (let me know if i need bigger)


would a R-tek2.0 work with an SAFCII w/ 720cc inj.?


Like i said my goal for this thread is to get the proper ECU for my setup.


I DONT WANT ANY FLAMMING! IM NOT HERE FOR THAT!!!

13b_cookie_monster

iTrader: (14)

all the systems you mentioned are good in their own respects... from what I'm seeing most people stick with the haltech with much success... good luck

arghx

iTrader: (3)

secondary should have the bigger injectors, not primary. But the big question is, how comfortable are you with taking on a big wiring project? And who is your tuner going to be and what is he comfortable with? are you doing it yourself?

Haltech is tried and true. You could get a used one with harness for like 800 these days, but the installation is a difficult task for many people. It does have a number of features like a two step. I don't know as much about Microtechs but you need a lot of wiring for that too, and I think price range is similar.

More expensive would be a Power FC. You would need the adapter kit and the unit itself at a minimum, which would cost you at least $1000 if you get a used PFC unit. People have made a lot of power on these ECU's (especially on an FD) but they don't have all the features of some of the other ECU's out there.

I've never seen anyone do an actual test of the max power the stock AFM can flow, but 400whp is way too much to push through that flapper door. So ditch the Rtek 2.0 until they have an AFM removal feature.

Another exotic option would be to use an FD AEM EMS with the FC Power FC adapter harness. It should work, or at least that's what Banzai told me, but nobody has ever done it to my knowledge. The AEM EMS probably has the most adjustability and features though, but again I'm not familiar with all the ins and outs of Haltech and Microtech.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

oops, thats what i ment to put. thanks

i thought the r-tek2.0 got rid of the MAF? i might have been wrong.. oh well not a big deal.

i'd have to go to a shop and get it tuned, i dont know anyone tuner wise.


and wiring is not a big deal to me at all i love wiring for some reason. ( natural born talent i guess HA )

so basicly what both of you are saying is, its up to me on what features i am looking for?

thank you guys for your help so far.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

motec is far better than any of the above mentioned. Especially if you spring for the m400. Most people wouldnt spend that much on an ECU tho.

Motec also has the M2R. It' ONLY for 2 rotor applications. That's what I have. I have no ambition to try a 3rotor, and want to have my 7 for a LONG time. That's why I got the motec.

Sure haltech has a lot of maps flaoting around, so it makes self-tuning easy. But the features just arent there. Once you set up your Motec map, and utilize lambda tuning, it's actually ONE BUTTON tuning.
I have a thread tracking all my success with the M2R. This ECU has a lot of rotor-heads excited. And is well worth the money.

https://www.rx7club.com/motec-247/my-%2Aofficial%2A-motec-m2r-thread-617644/

I almost bought a used haltech, but once I realized how people hack things up, and how important your wire harness is... There was NO WAY I could buy a used ECU. So once you look at a new Haltech, the M2R isnt that much more.

EDIT: Please take that damn FCD off right now! that is a total waste of time, and will probably damage your car more than anything...

simoncbrr1

Everybody is gonna hate me for this but get the Emanage Ultimate! Why??? Its cheap, it does alot of crap (dont ask what it can do but what cant it do?) and if you decide you wanna sell your car you can rip it off and put it on whatever new car you buy! However the emanage gets no love so theres hardly no support for it and its hard to find anyone who can tell you how to wire it up and use it correctly (Im working on it though!)

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Haltech is the easiest, and has the largest base for support. I hate to point out the obvious, but why go with something else then what has been proven to work?

Microtechs are junk, ask anyone else that tunes and they will tell you the same. The staging sucks and the software is clunky. Just plain junk in my opinion.

The M2R is a Motec, sure. But even StylEmon has to admit, his car isnt quite up to par yet. YawPower needs to hand a few M2Rs out to some tuners and let the knowledge base begin. For someone thats only looking for 400 Hp, its not worth it (yet).

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Because the Emanage Ultimate is a PIGGYBACK! Sure its a very flexible piggyback, but its still limited by that crappy FC ECU.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Use whatever ECU your tuner is most familiar with.

The two most popular ECUs for the 2nd gen are the Haltech and Microtech. Both do basically the same thing. The Haltech has more features then the Microtech and is more configurable, but in my experience the Microtech is far more problem free.

Since you won't be tuning it, use whatever your tuner is comfortable with.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

alright, ill look into them both alittler more anda see whats up thanks guys

so with the microtech i can start the car after the intalllation of the ECU is done, but with the Haltech E8 would i have to trailer my car down to a shop to get tuned before i can start her up?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The Microtech comes out of the box with a base map to suit your car and allow you to start it.

You can download a "close enough" base map for a Haltech from the Haltech section of this forum.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

alright, sweet. i think i might go for a haltech e8, but i still have 2 weeks till i get paid and will have enough money to make the purchase. so intell then, if people have more comments on Haltech E8 vs the Microtech LT-10s please put your input

arghx

iTrader: (3)

are you planning on installing it?

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i havent got my car completely dialed in yet. that's true, but from what I know of Motec (not much) and Turblown's expirience with Motec (not much) it was running pretty damn good.

Now I have a Motec dealer working with me (yawpower) and things are going much better.

JRat, I just got the advanced turning enabled yesterday. That was a mistake on my part to try and get by without it. I've learned that Motec really should just include it in the package deal. M2R is basically a Haltech without it.

I guess that is the price that comes with being one of the first with the unit. I've had to work through the kinks and learn what Motec is really about.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Please believe me, I am not attacking you here personally or otherwise and I am not saying anything negative about your experience with the M2R. Its just that being on of the first ones to use it, you need to wait to start recommending it to everyone and their brother until you have finished what you started. Not too mention the price to play for all that goodness!!! But it IS a MOTEC, and you wont hear me say anything negative about it other then its EXPENSIVE!!!

Yep, and the rest of it is configured at the factory. You want to install it on any other car, you have to send it back and pay to have it reconfigured. Where do I sign up for that awesomeness?

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i didnt take any offense. This is a great thread for 7 owners to see. Lots of good info here for an ECU noob...

Although I haven't mastered the software, what I have seen is very impressive. And its fairly easy to understand. It's not like the M2R is a totally new and revelutionary ECU. It's actually exactly like the m4, minus a few channels that piston motors utilize.

Motec considers the M(x) series to be their little toy, so it's not quite all the hype of the M(x)00 series. But like you said, it still is a Motec.

The price is a little more than Haltech, but that is with the advanced tuning enabled. What is the new Haltech with harness and all sensors? 1600-1800? (I really don't know) The Motec is about 2400 with the tuning options. I belive YawPower actaully includes injector cleaning and a basic map for a similar price.

I will be the first to say that Haltech has the biggest 'fan-base' It is very easy to get maps. Hell, I almost bought one.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Actually its $1299.00 @ Speedmachine

Which is why Haltech is my choice for the "average" joe that doesn't quite have access to the resources you do.

Now, if money ISN'T an issue, then the MOTEC would be my choice, hands down.

Kind of funny that I am still running on that ancient old E6K, eh?

For the OP, let me offer one piece of advice. What ever you decide, get the best that your money can buy. Dont mess around with piggybacks/SAFCs/etc, because they are waste of money.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

I almost bought the E6K... I was one bid away from winning! LOL freakin eBay.

If money wasn't an issue I'm sure I'd be a member on a much different forum!
L a m b o r g h i n i

great advice. Make sure that it will at least slightly surpass your power goals. And think about the big picture... How long are you going to own this car? How much money are you planning on spending over that amount of time? If you are like me, and don't plan on ever being 'finished', don't do things twice. Don't try to take short cuts.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

yes i am going to be the one installing it. installing is not an issue for me, just the tuning properly. which i will spend the money and have it tuned good.

and yes stylemon, this car is never going to be "finished" i will keep going and going, if i ever get sick of this car as a DD, it will be strickly a race car, something to spank all the hondas around here. lol once i get the Stage4 BNR i will anyways lol. (hondas round here arepretty pathetic)


thanks again for all the info.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Ok, what if something like an SAFC & wideband IS all someone can afford at the moment, like me, eh?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Then keep saving.. SAFCs are like training wheels..

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

And keep the car stock in the meanwhile?

That seems to be very hard for some people to do...lol

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

i have actualy noticed a difference with my SAFC2 with MPG and power, not much diff. w/ power but i was having a problem with power in my 5k-6k range and tunning the SAFC did correct it, but i also bought mine $100 shipped, i wouldnt have payed $200 shipped so if you can get a good deal go ahead, and i am interested in getting a wide band but i dont see the point to save just for that, but once i get my new Stand alone i will get a Wideband.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

since we basicly got the ECU out of the way for the most part, who makes some good injectors? and what would be a good size? 1600sec and 1200cc prim. or something smaller? remember im looking for like 350-400RWHP

micah

I would rather live with a slow *** stock car a little longer and be able to do it the RIGHT way than waste money on an SAFC, RTek, or what not. My opinion though.

If I were going to ever get an SAFC or what not, I would get it used.. New ones are just money spent that you'll never get back.. where if you buy a used one, there's a good chance you'll be able to sell it for as much as you got it for.