Anybody know anything about the Redom computers? I got a front clip with alot of mods and I was thinking of using this computer since it is probably already programmed for this setup. Also wondering if the memory would be still saved in it since its been sitting without a battery hooked up for a while. Thanks for any info!

 

It's a Re-Amemiya ECU. Well it's a original ECU that have been remapped by Re-Amemiya. They are verry nice and good for the specific modifications it's made for. But it's tuned for 100 octain pump gas, wich is available om pumps in japan. So i would not use it with regular US pump gas.

JT

 

Thanks for the info! I wonder if a 93 octane (or better) & some octane boost would do the trick

 

don't forget japan is 100 RON urs in the states is 93 PON

 

Ok, so the RON and MON numbers are added together then divided to get PON (US octane). and the MON is usually less than the MON, So I guess if I run it a little over 100 octane (PON) I should be ok right? I can't be the only one that wants to run this ECU in the US. There's got to be a few of them around, what do you guys use?

 

oops........MON usually less than the ---->RON I ment

 

I'm curious about this as well. I should be receiving my type b redom for my fc tommorow. i emailed the guy that i bought it from (RHDJAPAN) on ebay. and he said he has been selling these for the past 3 years and have not heard of any problems running with stateside gas.

Anybody else have any more information? I emailed Amemiya in both english and japanese and i haven't gotten a response from them.

 

I had this type of ECU on my FD for over a year. My only issue was that it would run super rich at WOT to the point where the car was breaking up, The ECU had two boost settings, one for low(12ps) and one for high (15psi) the low setting would always break up at higher rpms, but on the high setting it ran clean. Put the car on the dyno and it would not register because it started to break up at higher RPM's even at the high boost setting. The dyno sheet showed AFR's below 10 above 5K RPM's. After a few months I decided to buy an HKS Twin Power and that did the trick in the low boost, but upon going back to the dyno the car was still breaking up.

From my experience the ECU's run very rich and I would not worry about running a higher octane fuels as this would just be a waste of $.

 

O, also I did have an issue with the AWS going crazy, my idle was very high at startup, but this was easily cured by disconecting the AWS(I'm not sure if the FC's will react the same).

 

It's very comforting to hear this.... pwwatkins also said he had no problem running it on his fc. so this is good news. now i can actually enjoy driving the car instead of letting off the throttle not knowing if the fuel cut was going to kick in.

If anybody has more info. please share!

Thanks
Wing

 

Yea, thanks alot for the info guys.