Considering a new ECU, have about $1000 to spend
my mods are: Intake/dp/cb exhaust (intake/dp instlaled next week)
Rule of 3 is creeping me out
Thanks
-J

(btw: read up on ecu's this is realy a post on recommendations, the haltech seems popular while the microtech may seem better.)

 

The Haltech E6K and E11 are not within your stated budget. You would probably want to look into the Apexi PFC and Microtech LT8. Fortunately, we have dedicated forums for both of these products.

 

PFS PMS - see my post above. You are not heavily modded and these units are fine until you go single.

I ran a 12.06 with a cat, sequential. Rikki ran an 11.7 with a midpipe and non-sequential. They are probably not a good idea with sequential turbos and a midpipe because then, controlling the boost spike at transition is tough but if you are staying sequential and high flow cat, or non-sequential and midpipe, you don't need more.

"For the money" is the key phrase. With all the newer stuff out there, the PMS is pretty cheap used - $500 or so leaving you lots of money for other things.

Your factory ecu runs the rest of your car so those hassles are eliminated & you can still pass emissions.

And if you get something newer & fancier, make sure you have a specialist in your area to map it for you because to get an advantage over the PFS PMS with a better system, you need professional tuning.

The PFC, microtec, AME, Haltec have more potential because they have more cells to fool with, but realizing that potential is not a simple matter.

 

Apexi PFC without a doubt

 

It has been said before, but the best thing to do is pick one based on the support/trusted tuner in your area (Best ECU for the money) or not

Unless you have a large base of knowledgeable support/friends willing to help you along the way in tuning you will be on your own learning to tune a somewhat temperamental engine that gives little leeway for mistakes.

And if you think about it the extra cost of a supported EMS in your area is far less than a rebuild let alone several of them (not suggesting anything)

I really feel that is the most important variable in picking an ecu, and not features for the price.

 

Well yes and no Re: Rule of 3
Depends on your mechanic...
If he's done this before and knows his rotary bible by heart... good... you're fine without ecu...
I ran Stock IC, Stock Turbos, Intake, DP, no mubbler straightpipe... and Stock Cat... with 12lbs of boost for 8 Months without issues...

What you mechanic has to do is take the restrictor pills out of the hoses and re-size them so that the wastegate stays open more or less, depending, to adjust for boost, and without any major issues, again if your mechanic is worth a (explerative), then you should be fine untill you do something like larger injectors, differnet IC and Turbos... Once you remove what the stock ecu expects on a major level you have to change things out a bit... but I've heard about a setup with all Peter Farrell supercar parts, IC Turbo, Intake, HKS DP, running 12 PSI on stock ECU, the Boost cut sits somewhere around 11-13 depending... so that's why you can't make more boost under those circumstances without an ecu swap...

Bottom Line, Talk to a Mechanic that has your best interests in mind, if you don't have one, get one, they're GREAT ! (Props to you Jeff @ Rotary Power !!)

Hope this helps...

-DC

P.S. BTW I bought an AEM, and still haven't tuned it properly, but that's 90% due to my own fault, and me wanting to do stuff myself... From what I hear any certefied AEM tuner can set up a Rotary for you, it goes with what others say go with what the shops that you go to know, or else you might be left in the cold...
Since I live in SOCAL Aem HQ is 20 Minutes away I've had A++ support from them...

 

I have heard the AEM is no picnic, although it looks spectacular. Go to the AEM forum and check out what they have to say there. The base map that comes with the unit will get your car running, but not much more. You need more than a certified AEM tuner however, you need a rotary tuner familiar with the AEM, few and far between at the moment.

Between the unit cost and the tuner mapping , you need way more than $1,000. I would figure at least $2,500 before you got it right.

The odss are good that the PFS-Pms will work for you out of the box & again, pretty cheap today.

 

I need to find a rotory mechanic in NE ohio bad I guess... My dad works for a big shop but really isnt familiar with rotory engines... Ill start my search today. Thanks for the input guys

 

Buy a used re-chipped ECU like the M2 Stage III for around $450... Since you don't have many mods yet, the M2 ECU will be fine. You will be able to add a more bolt-ons with the extra $550 bucks that you'll save.

You will also not have to worry about having to get a programmable ECU tuned. Which also costs money... With the re-chipped ecu's it's easy to mod your car and have fun, just make sure you keep your boost under control and your all good.

And when it's time to 'graduate' to a programmable ECU, say when you get a ported motor with bigger injectors or go single, you can then buy a PFC or something "tuneable". At that time you'll be able to sell your re-chipped ECU for exactly what you paid for it They don't wear out and there is always someone else behind you on the mod ladder.

That's what I did anyway...