What is the best ECU to consider if I plan to do only the basic bolt-on mods? I really don't want to deal with dyno testing and tuning, just a plug-n-play set up.

 

Well, what ECU not to consider

 

ttt

 

None. An EMS is an expensive option which requires expensive tuning. If you are not willing to put forth the cash and effort to install the EMS, then you are better off not having one. You cannot do this cheaply, or in a bolt-on manner at this time. However, the EMS products are getting cheaper and easier to use all the time, so I'm sure that there will be something for you within the next 10 years.

The AEM EMS is the closest thing to what you are looking for. It will still require tuning ($500-3,000 if done professionally), but it is the closest thing to a "bolt-on" EMS for a 3Gen RX-7.
http://www.aempower.com/ems.htm

You may also want to look at the PFC:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/forumd...?s=&forumid=47

 

Not even piggy-back ECU's or chip upgrades? That just doesn't sound right. All I would need is adjustments for more fuel to avoid lean conditions. Anything more would be overkill.

 

1) So just how exactly do you think the programmer for a piggy-back ECU is gong to magically know which mods your car has, the condition of your engine, and how you drive it?

2) If piggy-back ECU's are so great, then why would anybody spend so much money on an EMS?

 

You definitely don't need an EMS (although it would be nice.. it's just not neccessary by what you have said).
In my opinion here are some options (in order from best-lowest)

- AEM EMS
- Apex Power FC
- Apex Super AFC

What mods do you have planned? Just the basics: intake, exhaust, fuel system?

 

If you're unwilling to pay for tuning, how will you quantify the need for and results of fuel tuning changes? Do you have a wideband AFM? Do you have free access to a dyno?

What people have to understand is that there is a big line drawn in the sand between the OEM ECU and ANY aftermarket tuning device or ECU. Without proper instrumentation and measurement, the best you can do will be to 'guestimate' what changes need to be made. You'll quickly learn after you damage your engine going that route, that proper testing and tuning is a far more economical route to follow, whether you use a programmable EMS, or a 'bolt-on' tuning aid such as the various fuel controllers.

You'll know when you reach the point of really needing a PEMS. When that time comes, it'll cost you to do it right, and it'll cost you more to do it wrong. . . and blow stuff up.

BK

 

I'm sorry, but all I wanted to know was if I installed a down pipe, cat-back, better intercooler and an intake (as stated: basic bolt-on mods) what would be the best thing to go with to prevent lean conditions from the improved air flow (also as stated). Anything more would be a waste of time and money for me. I don't plan to race professionally, only an "every blue moon" trip to the drag strip or maybe a weekend autocross. Most of those acronyms you guys tossed are way over my head.

 

HDP,

The thing you have to understand and accept about these engines is that they're terribly succeptable to damage due to improper tuning, coupled with the fact that they're very costly to repair/replace when things go wrong. With that said, you'd be wise to dyno the car using a wideband A/F meter at the very minimum following the installation of your modifications to ensure that there isn't a fuel delivery problem that will manifest itself as a blown-up engine. The ability to tune the engine to prevent such an issue is where the programable engine management systems come in.

BK

 

You can upgrade the chips from Pettit or M2 and that is pretty much plug-n-play, without any dyno tuning afterwards. A used one is a better buy though.

The drawback is they are not much cheaper than an Apexi unit, which most likely you will want to.

The best piggy back in my opinion is the Buddy Club. It's only about $600 with software that can be tuned with a laptop.

 

I guess you have to pay for convenience. That sux.

 

Oh, sorry about that. Engine management is very technical. This is why tuning and radical performance modifications are best left to people who understand these things. I realize that it is nice to be able to think that you can buy a lot of easily-installed parts to make your car perform better, but please don't forget that there is also a service industry devoted to making your car go faster.

If you are only concerned about a dangerous lean condition, then all you really need is an Air/Fuel Ratio meter. You can just use any cheap one as a monitor, as the expensive "wideband" meters are only worth the money for tuning purposes. The link below is a bit dated, but gives you the main idea of what is available:
http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/afgauge.html

When it comes to hotrods, you pay for everything.

 

Get a pettit ecu, it is tuned for all bolt ons up to 14.7 psi and can even handle a midpipe. Some members have seen low 12s with this setup.

 

Thanks! This is the answer I wanted to get. Straight to the point!

 

hey wassup

I can vouch for an upgraded pettit ECU..

12's are very achievable with this ecu, with the proper bolt ons. I decided to with an ATR high flow cat instead of a midpipe to be on the safe side and avoid any boost spike caused by all the extra air flow. Running at 13psi, with most of the bolt ons with the exception of an upgraded IC, the car still runs rich...

Theres a couple of members selling the pettit ecu/ M2 ecu on the forum as we speak for around the $400 area used. This is a great pickup and you will right away notice a difference with this ecu...

Hope this is what you wanted to hear!
Thanks

 

I agree with the folks recommending the Pettit-style ECU. With the mods you're suggesting, you're borderline as to whether you even need anything, however as everyone knows by now, borderline means increased risk. The Pettit ECU will give you more peace of mind, plus the car will run a bit better, at least that's been my experience. Just make sure you do something about your boost...if you free up the exhaust and intake you may get some pretty significant spikes...you may want to get some form of boost control to help eliminate that.

jds

 

Just wanted to know, who sells the Buddy Club piggy back, I am interested in upgrading the ECU will this be the best/cheapest solution ?

Renè

 

Why would you get a piggyback for $600? The Petit replaces your standard ecu and does everything for you for a hundred bucks less.

 

i have an M2 ecu and love it. it's set for 12 psi. i might be selling it soon cause i need something to tune for the bnr stage 3's. but i'm running my M2 with dp, cb, intake, everyday at about 100 miles a day. no problem

 

You can get it from jt-imports. The computer is about $450 and the software is about $200 but I think you can get it shipped for about $650. I'd have to double check my email but you can ask Jason.

Since it requires tuning, it is not the easiest solution. Pettit and M2 are the simplest. I have the Pettit and will sell it when I get the Power FC this year.

 

The Pettit does not replace your ECU. It is only a chip ugrade, nothing more. The same thing Superchips and other companies do. It changes the mapping from fuel economy to more HP and in the RX-7's case increases the fuel cut to 14.7lbs.

The Buddy Club (piggy back) ECU comes with software that is similar to the Datalogic used to tune the Apexi Power FC.

The Pettit can not be tuned or adjusted. All are setup for the same mod's. The only reason you send the ECU in is because of inconsistancies between computers.

 

You might want to talk to the shop you take your 7 to, as well, since the added boost generated by your mods, can be "Tuned" without an Ecu, if you RE-Jet or open the Wastegate, you can relieve extra boost pressure without an ECU and can bring a downpipe and midpipe back to 10-8-10 psi.

Or you can get a boost controller which will monitor the sensors and do this electronically.

Once you start talking about and intercooler etc.. you're talking some serious cash, and since you obviously want the performance and ECU would be a great idea, from what I've seen - heard you can squeeze quite a bit of power out of a rotary and still avoid lean conditions with a properly tuned ECU.

Derek