aftermarket ecu
04-30-17, 04:05 PM
#1
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aftermarket ecu
i have a s4 na. want to get into aftermarket ecu. heard good things about pfc, haltech, microtech. also smaller ones rtek, adaptronics.
noob question, if i get a standalone, that means i will lose the convenience function like power window, dash warning lights etc?
what i want is programmable fuel and timing. ability to change map on the go. my frd has a wrx with cobb controller, and he can change map with a handheld device. as i daily drive my car, i think its good function to have when i want fuel economy vs power
thanks for your inputs
noob question, if i get a standalone, that means i will lose the convenience function like power window, dash warning lights etc?
what i want is programmable fuel and timing. ability to change map on the go. my frd has a wrx with cobb controller, and he can change map with a handheld device. as i daily drive my car, i think its good function to have when i want fuel economy vs power
thanks for your inputs
04-30-17, 04:13 PM
#2
First, let me start by saying the RTEK is not in the same league as everything else you've named. It's antiquated, limited, and as of recently Digital Tuning is throwing in the towel. It is also not a standalone, it's a modified stock ECU. That being said, Adaptronic is not a "smaller" ECU, it's in the same league as everything else you listed.
The ECU with a gimmicky controller, like your friend's Cobb AP, is the PowerFC. Any modern ECU can do map switching for fuel efficiency (who really cares about this on a rotary??) and power priorities. However, you usually do this by having some self control with the right foot. A properly set up and capable ECU will not need you switching maps for something so trivial.
Yes, all you other functions such as power windows and idiot lights will work.
With all that being said, you drive an NA...there's not much power to be had, no point in wasting a ton of money on a standalone. Buy a used RTEK on the forum and be done.
The ECU with a gimmicky controller, like your friend's Cobb AP, is the PowerFC. Any modern ECU can do map switching for fuel efficiency (who really cares about this on a rotary??) and power priorities. However, you usually do this by having some self control with the right foot. A properly set up and capable ECU will not need you switching maps for something so trivial.
Yes, all you other functions such as power windows and idiot lights will work.
With all that being said, you drive an NA...there's not much power to be had, no point in wasting a ton of money on a standalone. Buy a used RTEK on the forum and be done.
05-02-17, 11:10 AM
#3
The advice above is pointing you in the right direction depending on your goals. However, switching between maps really is not necessary because any competent tuner can tune your cruise part of the map for fuel efficiency and your power parts of the map for power. I also have a WRX with a Cobb Accessport and all the "Economy" tune does is limit boost pressure more than the "Stage 2+" regular tune and I did not see any actual change in fuel mileage between either tune so I never actually switch off of the standard tune anymore.
My '86 GXL has an Apexi PowerFC because it came with the full bridge n/a engine I bought so it just made it easy for me to get up and running. However, I am currently saving to switch to Megasquirt MS3X because it is more modern and is still being developed and improved. Aaron Cake's website has a really in depth guide to installing this ECU on an FC.
The PowerFC is easy to get running but then also requires the Datalogit to be able to hook up a laptop for tuning and it does not have any auto tune features and is just becoming too old and antiquated compared to modern standalones. But at the end of the day you need to decide whether you want something to be mostly plug and play (Rtek, PowerFC with some exceptions since it is actually only plug n play for the FD) or requiring some wiring to install.
If you want to play around with the tuning yourself I would suggest the Rtek since you can find them used for around 200-300 bucks, the Megasquirt since there is a lot of people running these and it has pretty well supported, or a Haltech. However, if you are planning on having someone else tune the car you should ask them what ECU they are most familiar with and go that route for the best results. If you are going to go full standalone expect to spend around $1000 or more not including installation.
My '86 GXL has an Apexi PowerFC because it came with the full bridge n/a engine I bought so it just made it easy for me to get up and running. However, I am currently saving to switch to Megasquirt MS3X because it is more modern and is still being developed and improved. Aaron Cake's website has a really in depth guide to installing this ECU on an FC.
The PowerFC is easy to get running but then also requires the Datalogit to be able to hook up a laptop for tuning and it does not have any auto tune features and is just becoming too old and antiquated compared to modern standalones. But at the end of the day you need to decide whether you want something to be mostly plug and play (Rtek, PowerFC with some exceptions since it is actually only plug n play for the FD) or requiring some wiring to install.
If you want to play around with the tuning yourself I would suggest the Rtek since you can find them used for around 200-300 bucks, the Megasquirt since there is a lot of people running these and it has pretty well supported, or a Haltech. However, if you are planning on having someone else tune the car you should ask them what ECU they are most familiar with and go that route for the best results. If you are going to go full standalone expect to spend around $1000 or more not including installation.
