I believe that is a stock fuel pump. You will need to look up the numbers on it and verify.


~ GW.

 

That is your safest path if you are going to retain that ECU for now.


~ GW

 

Be gentle with the fuel level sensor. Hard to replace.

Changing the fuel pump was one of the first things I did. I asked the local shop to put in a stronger pump.

Two years later when I blew a corner seal, the tuner shop said they found I had a cheap-*** pump and it had been installed with a bent o-ring.

(They also found my coils were hooked up wrong - see above - and my oil pick-up was jammed against a up-dented oil pan.)

 

Ordered an afr gauge from aem today so hopefully i’ll have some results in the next week. I’ll update when I get those readings

 

Oh man sorry to hear that. Yeah I’ll keep that in mind. Fortunately I do most of my own work on my cars so I know the parts that i’m putting in are what I need. My first rotary though so there is a steep learning curve haha

 

one of Re Amemiya's drivers used to post on here, https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...3/#post3179029
"No fuel pump upgrade is needed with 12lb boost.
You can go with a stock pump up to 350HP.
My car is 2000 FD.
14lb boost pressure and RE-A exhaust system give me 350HP.
Stock Pump.
Your car is 2001, it's OK.
But very slight mod is required."

again they don't tune as rich, so they don't need as big a fuel pump.

 

Make sure AFR bung is in the right place and mounted at the correct angle. Even then they burn out about every 10,000 km.

 

Good looks ! This actually applies perfectly because I have an RE exhaust as well.

 

From what I’ve read - place it at the end of the downpipe in the 9-3 position to reduce condensation

 

There should be an instruction in the box.

Mine is just before the cat, at the 9:00; but it also has to be tipped at an angle (maybe 18 degrees?).

I have had to replace the sensor a few times, but more recently the actual gauge and most recently the intermediate connecting harness.

Oddly I could buy the whole gauge kit for the price of just buying a replacement sensor.

Some parts stores will sell you a Volkswagen sensor of same spec. But they burn out faster.

 

In case anyone is wondering:

I opted to completely change out the CPU to one that I am able to control the boost with. Recharge (the ecu brand I have now) told me essentially to use a boost controller even though the data sheet shows not to use one. My conversion with them showed multiple areas of conflicting information so, to be on the safe side, I’m going to upgrade to a Haltech Nexus S3. UMS tuning in Phx is going to end up tuning the car for me.

I ended up returning the AFR gauge that I bought. I guess the Haltech uses its own proprietary wideband and it won’t communicate with the AEM one I ordered. Since it would require a new bung welded in anyways, might as well just use the Haltech one instead.

My thought process on this is that: I am going to end up building the car anyways. A new CPU is going to be required down the road either way so might as well use it now to keep this engine healthy in its stock form.

Thank you all for your input! It was very helpful in making a decision.

 

Make sure your new tuner friends know about the coil position change.