winter time work
#26
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Definitely get spare rear end parts for the swap.
The T56 boxes are easy enough to find, just expensive [at least around my area]. If it's not a street or daily car, just grab an old-*** 4-speed gearbox, any small-block trans will bolt to an LSx-based engine. If you don't need overdrive, the old boxes are great and will withstand years of abuse.
The T56 boxes are easy enough to find, just expensive [at least around my area]. If it's not a street or daily car, just grab an old-*** 4-speed gearbox, any small-block trans will bolt to an LSx-based engine. If you don't need overdrive, the old boxes are great and will withstand years of abuse.
#27
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Definitely get spare rear end parts for the swap.
The T56 boxes are easy enough to find, just expensive [at least around my area]. If it's not a street or daily car, just grab an old-*** 4-speed gearbox, any small-block trans will bolt to an LSx-based engine. If you don't need overdrive, the old boxes are great and will withstand years of abuse.
The T56 boxes are easy enough to find, just expensive [at least around my area]. If it's not a street or daily car, just grab an old-*** 4-speed gearbox, any small-block trans will bolt to an LSx-based engine. If you don't need overdrive, the old boxes are great and will withstand years of abuse.
Could i get a custom drivrshaft to go to my n.a rear end or will it just rip apart(just installed new axles last month)?
#28
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Yeah the old 4-speed boxes are cheap. You can get a brand-new-in-box Richmond Super-T10 4-speed with kickass gearsets from Summit for $1250 + shipping. I can't find a used T56 with under 80k miles around here for that price.
It really is personal preference honestly. Some folks grenade stock N/A driveline parts at stock power levels [I'm guilty of this on more than one occasion], and some have 300+whp going through welded N/A diffs [Jeremy Lowe as an example, who has some gnarly 3rd gear clutch-kick entries] without issue for multiple seasons.
I'll be rocking a welded N/A diff in my car [going to be rocking all S4 N/A driveline components actually], but I'm having a custom driveshaft made with serviceable U-joints, and adding driveshaft hoops for extra precaution. I've had too many yokes break on FCs and break/bend/demolish my shifter extension or output shaft.
I've seen folks simply oval the holes on the driveshaft to fit the pattern of the Turbo-II diff, so that is an option if you feel like you need a Turbo-II diff after getting your driveshaft built.
It really is personal preference honestly. Some folks grenade stock N/A driveline parts at stock power levels [I'm guilty of this on more than one occasion], and some have 300+whp going through welded N/A diffs [Jeremy Lowe as an example, who has some gnarly 3rd gear clutch-kick entries] without issue for multiple seasons.
I'll be rocking a welded N/A diff in my car [going to be rocking all S4 N/A driveline components actually], but I'm having a custom driveshaft made with serviceable U-joints, and adding driveshaft hoops for extra precaution. I've had too many yokes break on FCs and break/bend/demolish my shifter extension or output shaft.
I've seen folks simply oval the holes on the driveshaft to fit the pattern of the Turbo-II diff, so that is an option if you feel like you need a Turbo-II diff after getting your driveshaft built.
Last edited by Daviticus; 01-11-11 at 12:11 AM.
#31
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Winter work **pix**
Also just realized i never put any pix in here...
In the garage now
Before winter..
And my daily baby sitting in the snow.
In the garage now
Before winter..
And my daily baby sitting in the snow.
Last edited by slidinsilly; 01-22-11 at 12:56 PM.
#32
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Use the IMG code photobucket gives you when posting pictures on here.
Which bumper?
Check out the FSM and it should give you an idea of any bolts you're missing.
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html
Which bumper?
Check out the FSM and it should give you an idea of any bolts you're missing.
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html
#34
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UPDATE 3/16
went to the meca of fb and fc parts today and got a few things for $350
-S5 tails, minor crack in one that can be sanded out
-Aluminum hood, clean
-Rubber lower shift boot
-Header back aftermarket stock exhaust
not to bad when I was plan on buying an aftermarket exhaust for the same amount.
ill have pics tomorrow.
went to the meca of fb and fc parts today and got a few things for $350
-S5 tails, minor crack in one that can be sanded out
-Aluminum hood, clean
-Rubber lower shift boot
-Header back aftermarket stock exhaust
not to bad when I was plan on buying an aftermarket exhaust for the same amount.
ill have pics tomorrow.
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For the exhaust i was thinking about moving the booster behind the firewall for some clearance. The other problem is that the fuel lines run on the driver side unlike a 240. Its probably gonna go down and cut to the passanger side and ill probably just do a turn down on the other side of the trans.
Im not sure how level the motor is since i havnt looked at it in a while but ill take a pic next time i do
Im not sure how level the motor is since i havnt looked at it in a while but ill take a pic next time i do
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