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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #26  
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Definitely get spare rear end parts for the swap.

The T56 boxes are easy enough to find, just expensive [at least around my area]. If it's not a street or daily car, just grab an old-*** 4-speed gearbox, any small-block trans will bolt to an LSx-based engine. If you don't need overdrive, the old boxes are great and will withstand years of abuse.
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
buy it. low ball him, get a t56 6speed, and call it a day.
13b-t sounds like it's too complicated for you right now.
Ya if i cant get it for cheap i probably wont get it. Anddd i dont know if that laat part was an insult or not?

Originally Posted by Daviticus
Definitely get spare rear end parts for the swap.

The T56 boxes are easy enough to find, just expensive [at least around my area]. If it's not a street or daily car, just grab an old-*** 4-speed gearbox, any small-block trans will bolt to an LSx-based engine. If you don't need overdrive, the old boxes are great and will withstand years of abuse.
That sounds like a cheap good solution, the t56s are quite expensuve everywgere i think.
Could i get a custom drivrshaft to go to my n.a rear end or will it just rip apart(just installed new axles last month)?
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 12:09 AM
  #28  
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Yeah the old 4-speed boxes are cheap. You can get a brand-new-in-box Richmond Super-T10 4-speed with kickass gearsets from Summit for $1250 + shipping. I can't find a used T56 with under 80k miles around here for that price.

It really is personal preference honestly. Some folks grenade stock N/A driveline parts at stock power levels [I'm guilty of this on more than one occasion], and some have 300+whp going through welded N/A diffs [Jeremy Lowe as an example, who has some gnarly 3rd gear clutch-kick entries] without issue for multiple seasons.

I'll be rocking a welded N/A diff in my car [going to be rocking all S4 N/A driveline components actually], but I'm having a custom driveshaft made with serviceable U-joints, and adding driveshaft hoops for extra precaution. I've had too many yokes break on FCs and break/bend/demolish my shifter extension or output shaft.

I've seen folks simply oval the holes on the driveshaft to fit the pattern of the Turbo-II diff, so that is an option if you feel like you need a Turbo-II diff after getting your driveshaft built.

Last edited by Daviticus; Jan 11, 2011 at 12:11 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 11:53 PM
  #29  
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quick question, what type of oil should i run in my diff since it is welded?
should i run lsd gear oil or the oil for an open diff?
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 12:40 AM
  #30  
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also....having an oddly hard time trying to take my bumper off?
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 12:50 PM
  #31  
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Winter work **pix**

Also just realized i never put any pix in here...

In the garage now





Before winter..





And my daily baby sitting in the snow.


Last edited by slidinsilly; Jan 22, 2011 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #32  
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Use the IMG code photobucket gives you when posting pictures on here.

Which bumper?
Check out the FSM and it should give you an idea of any bolts you're missing.

http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 01:04 PM
  #33  
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^^fixed thanks, doing this on my iphone, and ive seen that view of the bumper before but it just does not want to come off for some reason
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #34  
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UPDATE 3/16


went to the meca of fb and fc parts today and got a few things for $350

-S5 tails, minor crack in one that can be sanded out
-Aluminum hood, clean
-Rubber lower shift boot
-Header back aftermarket stock exhaust

not to bad when I was plan on buying an aftermarket exhaust for the same amount.

ill have pics tomorrow.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:36 PM
  #35  
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sorry for the huge pix again..














and got a bunch of tires ready

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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:38 PM
  #36  
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nvm
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #37  
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?
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 01:22 AM
  #38  
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Update July 12


First time taking out a motor by myself. Took a little while but very satisfing. Hopefuly have it running again next week.


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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 08:11 AM
  #39  
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Looking good. Simple Green and a power washer will do wonders for that engine bay
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #40  
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^^ that and gold paint

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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:28 AM
  #41  
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Dang!!!!! talk about a balling engine bay!
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:47 AM
  #42  
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Ballin' as ****.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:49 AM
  #43  
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You couldn't have taken the time to remove some stuff before painting? haha
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 12:23 AM
  #44  
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Just painted everything. I ****** love it. Are you doing an NA rebuild? Going Turbo?
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 08:44 PM
  #45  
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #46  
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Downpipe is gonna be intresting
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 09:28 AM
  #47  
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How's the angle on the motor? Mine was tilted back a little when I first built the mounts, working on revising them now to get it a little more level
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 09:35 AM
  #48  
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Just curious on how are you going to route the exhaust
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #49  
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For the exhaust i was thinking about moving the booster behind the firewall for some clearance. The other problem is that the fuel lines run on the driver side unlike a 240. Its probably gonna go down and cut to the passanger side and ill probably just do a turn down on the other side of the trans.

Im not sure how level the motor is since i havnt looked at it in a while but ill take a pic next time i do
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 01:24 PM
  #50  
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Need any NA drive train stuff? I got lots lol. Axles, GTU LSD...
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