so i just pulled the rex in the garage yesterday for the winter.
im planning on doing somewhat of an overhaul on her.
my first thoughts are flushing out every fluid in the car and replacing it all, replacing and fucked up nuts and bolts,
and anything else i can replace or ditch to make for more better sliding.

anyone have any other ideas on what i can get done?

my current mods are:
welded diffski
bc coils
f/r strut bars
new subframe/diff bushings
semi gutted interior

its a 87' n/a.....for now

ill post some pics of my work area when i get a hold of a camera.

 

nobody?

 

dont waste your money on strut bars

 

too late. got them both for pretty cheap tho

 

oh god. dont tell me you bought those off ebay...

 

just spend the extra money and buy a turbo diff. Not only do they welded rears blow up (I know this from experience) but the differentials suck to pull/re-install. If you have the money just invest it so you only have to **** around with it once.

just helping out

I had a welded for a month, heres part of the case:

 

haha no bought them on here. rear is cusco front is... something else

regarding the welded diff. i havee had it for almost a year now and hasnt given me any problems. i do plan on upgrading some time but like it was stated it is a bitch to get up in there so i fiigure if its working y f with it. when i do get a t2 rear ill probably get a junk one and rebuild it so i know exactly what going on in there.

keep the advice comming people!!

 

Well, since it's already welded and on coils ...

... slam it and slide it into ****. Seat time is the best mod you can do to you car.

 

I run an n/a welded diff. As long as you aren't running drag radials at the dragstrip, or running a overkill clutch you should be fine for a while. My first one lasted like 2.5 years.

 

I'm a bit surprised, honestly. You've got some pretty gnarly clutch-kick entries. That's saying something about N/A diff strength.

 

ive never had luck with na diffs. of course they were in a car making north of 200hp but i was killing one per event. just teeth and cast iron sitting in the bottom of the bowl.

 

well im not running drag raids cuz i dont drag.
forgot to mention the stage one exedy clutch just installed. not an overkill clutch but 100x better then stock. got the oem flywheel cut at a machine shop for $50 cuz i bought a aluminum flywheel from a local shop but it turned out that it was for a turbo 2 not na.
i know seat time is key but i dont wana **** anything up in the off season so she is staying inside this year.
i think the next mod is gonna be a a mazda trix short shifter cuz the notch that keeps the oem shifter in place in the trans is almost gone and is not safe.

 

The Exedy Stg. 1 is a good clutch to start with on an N/A rotary. I've got the same thing in mine with maybe 2k miles on it so far, best clutch I've had in an FC.

 

Did the pin back out of it's bore on the transmission? That notch doesn't wear unless the bushings are worn out or the pin has become loose.

 

Oh ok, yeah my car only makes like 180hp. nm

 

ya i really like it but i might be upgrading to a turbo motor sooner then i thought so it might not hold up to the power.

i cant say exactly right now ill take a pic tonight and see.

 

without seeing this motor would you guys think it is worth going to see based on this craigslist add?

"I have a jdm Rx7 13b That I pulled from my Rx7 I was told it had around 45-55 miles on it. the motor ran before I pulled it but wouldn't rev past 4500. The motor didn't smoke and didn't consume coolant or oil. The motor was a manual still have everything except wiring harness Asking 500 obo. Will need A wiring harness. "

 

$500 without a harness, and pre-existing issues? I'd pass for sure.

 

you should do a search on that 4500 rpm issue, I've seen posts about that a few times on here. might be something related to sensors, wiring, vacuum, who knows. maybe the guy just didn't hook it up right. put your key words in google like this "blah blah site:rx7club.com" (without the quotes around it and no space after the semi colon). best way to search this site. I'm lazy.

one thing you could do is take your sound deadening out using dry ice. like 50lbs off the car right there.

 

i searched a little and found it saying more for fd's with sequentials and it not boosting past 4500 not not being able to physically go past 4500.

found another add, how does this sound...

"For sale is my low miledge 13b motor out of my 91 Mazda rx7 turbo frontmount bov downtube computer everything needed for your fc to become a turbo2 is included I'm selling my whole swap. Also will include extra bov t04e turbo new never used. I am asking 1650 OBO For sale is my low miledge 13b motor out of my 91 Mazda rx7 turbo frontmount bov downtube computer everything needed for your fc to become a turbo2 is included I'm selling my whole swap. Also will include extra bov t04e turbo new never used. I am asking 1650 OBO "

probably offer a 1k w/o the new turb

 

lol at like 2psi.
on a side note, my NA diff held up longer than my streetported TII motor in my last car. i know mine was making atleast 250-280hp....

 

^discrepencies probably have to due with the wear already on the diff, more so to due with the quality and amount of welding done to the diff to lock it. you can't expect the same results when different welders aren't following the exact same formula to do it. basically, it's a gamble how long a welded diff will last, some a few months and others a couple years. maybe this post should be mandatory reading for all the noobs asking how long welded diffs last? lol

 

the welded diff is a temporary substitution for a t2 rear or some kind of lsd.
i got it done for next to nothing and saw the welds and they looked pretty quality.
not ssaying that i am a master welder in any way, but I have seen good and bad welds and it is easy to tell when it is ****.

i have also heard of people running t2 diffs and gutting thhe gears and running something like a solid rear. not sure the details but it sounded interested and semi cheap.

also any feed back on the motor described in the second craigslist add?

 

So my friend crashed his 99 trans am the other day, and offered me his motor. Not sure if he wants money for it yet and its an auto with more then 100k on it. I've been looking Adeline and found a few 6spd transss on craigslist for like 1500. Is this worth starting a project with or do u guys think I'm gonna wind up dumping alot of money into this w/o results for awhile.
My dad and I's budget right now is a little under 2k but might get some money added to it b/c of the new year. But I would really like to have that v8 torque!

 

buy it. low ball him, get a t56 6speed, and call it a day.
13b-t sounds like it's too complicated for you right now.