Pshhh why get a hydro when u can have this!! haha cheap as fuc for the win. Although ill stick with my future hydo setup. This is just ideas for the broke kids lol

 

i rather the stock location. keep it true to the roots. im glad your doing this instead of using hydro-brake. just get the stock to work and lock. took me some time but i got it dialed in... especially on a fc... it's a little tricky but nothing you cant do

 

^This.

 

x2. I always thought hydro was for the posers. Or in other words, For the ones that sucked so bad they needed an edge to keep up.

 

Well my local track is pretty big and if your doing pro-am 5/8ths and you come out the turn doing 70-80 and go to slow down to 30ish in seconds then its pretty much required. My local track is evergreen btw. Its actually a requirement if ur doing the 5/8ths which is all of pro-am to have a hydro ebrake with dual rear calipers. So in my opinion its not a cheat or for posers

 

This isnt my actual fc. Its a friends. But about the stock ebrake.. Mine is pretty crappy and doesnt lock for crap. I mostly relied on clutch kicks and power overs to initiate drifts. What are some things to make it better? i already tightened the screws and nothing

 

Good rear pads, and adjusted right is all you need. In todays world a hydro is probably better but i like how my stock setup feels when my car does run

 

I've modified my handle too but even tho ot's adjusted , it still feels soft . I run Hawk HPS but I still have the stock rubber lines . I think that the line probably expands when going e-brake . Did anybody see a difference before/after SS lines ?

 

I'm not a drifter..period.(but I was homeless for a while..haha!)
The only thing I can comment on is the Stock setup,which is Cable operated.
Seeing that cable is the "link" between a good Grip on the brake and it can stretch,I would assume that is the weak part of the "drift brake setup".
If I did Drift I would do the separate hydraulic caliper setup to activate the Ebrake.(Higgi had a "mod" a while back)
Not much info by me posting that info but hey..bump???.

 

I have the cheap pads on the back of my fc. adjusted the calipers and the handle. it works good. had nice pads on the rear but is seemed like it didnt lock as fast. i made a handle much like this in one of my old s13s. I like the feel of the stock location best. I might get a hydro brake though. to see how they feel. I think my cable is fairly stretched now.

 

Its only a matter of time before you stretch your cable in your stock e brake. Who wants to drive with a screwdriver handle for a shift ****?

 

LOL i have no idea on the screwdriver thing or why he did that

 

That setup looks like dog **** unless you enjoy punching your hand brake every time you need to go from the steering wheel to shifter.

 

Exactly what I thought

 

2nd gear bro. no shifting required.

 

Wouldn't have enough power for 3rd gear anyway being non turbo so 2nd gear is pretty much all they got



I have to agree that the e brake would not function well at all. Converting it to a pull style like that means you have to mount it quite a lot closer to your dash to even get any leverage to pull it. Your elbow will just hit the seat and be awkward as all hell to pull. Only way to get leverage in the stock position is to keep it as the factory pull up style.

 

Well he has a bucket seat that sits pretty far back so i guess it works for him

 

**** it. If it works for him why talk **** on it lol

I like the shift **** btw. lol

 

Sorry for double post but I the pic it looks like it's pulled up. So I don't think it will get in the way with it all the way down. Not like your tryin to shift will its pulled up lol. If the angles just right might be easier to pull. Better leverage and whatnot.

 

I don't believe it is pulled up because how would it lock? There is not a button on it anymore and obviously nobody is holding it. It might not be too bad to pull I may be wrong. I know for my hydro brake I had to put it almost as far forward as possible because I needed every bit of leverage I could get trying to lock my 10.5 in rear wheels. But it still looks to be in the way of going from steering wheel to stick shift quick.

 

if you are having any kind of trouble locking your rear wheels with a hydro you have a problem. what hydro do you have?

 

Crappy k sport. T'ed into the lines not dual calipers. Never understood why pro drivers have so little tension and pull it like its nothing. Maybe i over bled mine because its really hard to pull.

 

Those e-brake cylinders aren't made to receive pressure into the inlet . if ebrake is pulled and you try to control with the foot brake, you end up srewing the seals iniside the e-brake cylinder .

Also , I hope you've put it inline and not t'ed because that would brake all four wheels lol

Go Dual or stay Stock ( or go ghetto with the pedal only braking in the front and only e-brake in the rear like I did lol )

 

stock is great until you get bigger tires and more grip behind the car.

if you feel like the stock ebrake is enough then you aren't going fast enough or don't have that much rear grip.

at some point it's just not enough.

 

Dual caliper is the most unnecessary mod I've seen the drift community come up with. If inline routing is good enough for every WRC car on the planet its good enough for some dopey car doing donuts in a parking lot. The only time I hear people complain about the backfeed issue is if they've never had an inline brake or if they used the old CNC staging brake that would lock down.

You won't blow the seals out in your hydro master running it inline, I could think of no possible situation that would happen. Did 5 years on mine and it worked as well as the day I got it.

Don't Tee them into the rear brake line, that would allow it to backfeed to your brake master cylinder and you would need to ride the foot brake to close the circuit and keep fluid from pumping back into the master reservoir.