So like the title says. I'm dying of wheel hop.

Replaced my forward diff mount with another better condition used diff mount, and welded a .25" reinforcement plate thing into it to support the rubber(which wasn't 100%)

Added PBM solid sub frame mounts, and rear diff mounts.

Also added a pinion snubber, and preloaded it against the diff to where it's always making contact, and quite tight as well.

Oh yeah, and I also threw in poly transmission mounts.

And the result... still getting this annoying f*cking wheel hop. Doesn't hop when sliding. It will only hop when dumping the clutch from a dig. Even in the wet.

What else should I be doing to cure this?! </3

 

Loosen up your rear spring just enough where you can spin the spring with little force on your collars and loosen up on ur dampening... Try that..

 

Preload is set perfect. Spin freely with little force, but perfectly snug, so they don't have the slightest up and down play.

Dampening is set at full hard, But that shouldn't be an issue. In theory it should help stiffen things up.

Next step is new axles, because they're both blown. Although I highly doubt that would cause this mad wheel hop

 

I'd also like to add,

The first test was done at 36psi on 215/40-17's. Tried again at 48 psi, and it still hopped. Not as violent, but it did still hop.

 

what about your rear control arm bushings?

are they oem? or also polyurethane?

 

OEM Trailing arm bushings

 

Have you tried softening the dampers? That seems like the first place I'd start since its free!

 

Well yesterday I went and turned the ****, and I remembered that I had them at half hard/soft. The FRONT is at full hard. I still softened them 3 clicks.

I also removed the coils, readjusted preload, and set them basically perfect. Didn't feel like pissing my neighbors off though. So no burnout to see if it helped.

 

U never mentioned sway bars. Not running them? I've been talking to Martin at Psm and that's the hardest to tune especially on Fc. What other mods do you have? Spherical rear control arm bushings needed as well as solidifying toe after dress eliminatin. Subframe, individual camber, main camber, what coils are you on? Dampening? And ride height.

Been running Psm comp coils on standard 10/8 and then after the Psm pros came out did some talking and I opted for swift 6kg for rear on comp dampeners. 8/6 smoothed it out a lot and allowed me to run sway bar by balancing dampening spring rate and sway bar.

Rb rear sway. Polyurethane bushings and spherical end links

 

At asb last year I was watching a 13 coupe mob with a LS and ebrake hard to initiate. Mad wheel hop. More than likely no sway bar to use the opposite wheels dampener

 

I've got upgraded sway bars, was told they were tanabe. Psm coils, 10/8.

Weird part is, it doesn't hop every time. I recently went to the Compton street races, and accidentally(long story) ended up racing a mk5 gti, and completely launched on his ***. Hooked up hard, and left him until I missed 3rd.

Basically, I got ZERO hop. But sometimes I get ridiculous hop, like it really feels like I'm just breaking everything.

 

You don't have tanabe sway bars they look stock... But for sure not tanabe

 

What's your tire size/brand? And thread wear ?
Camber?

 

215/40-17 Nangkang, not sure on everything else, but it shouldn't matter, because it's hopped on Azenis, Federals, Triangles etc. I don't believe it's related to tire size, or alignment. My toe is set to 0 out back as well.

 

IMO, you addressed the problem but didn't fix it. Its the front diff mount. Quit screwing around with the 25 yr old decrepit stock mounts and just get a solid one.

something like this
AusRotary.com &bull; View topic - Billet Aluminum FC3S front diff mounts

easy fix

 

found one for cheaper
シャーシパーツ Solid Bushings - Parts Shop MAX

related info:
Say good bye to wheel hop on your FC... - NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum

 

I already fabbed up a solid mount. Gonna throw it in in the next few weeks

 

Only time i have ever, ever had wheel hop is with a broken diff mount. Stock mount+pinion snubber wont do ****. "slightly better" stock mount is still a 20+ year old mount that will go all over the place. Weld the stock front mount (box it in) and keep/ditch the snubber. It wont do much since the metal above the diff will flex anyway. If you didnt have the pinion snubber then you would hear your diff bouncing all over.

1. Weld front diff mount/box it in (or buy PBM one)
   
2. Clean front mount area with wire wheel to ensure that it doesnt have a dusty/rusty surface that would allow front diff mount to escape (Trust me has happened before, unless you weld the washer thingy to the subframe so its no longer slotted)
   
3. Tighten front diff mount and use blue locktight
   
4. Make sure rear diff mounts are actually solid
   
5. Make sure your struts aren't blown to hell, try setting them to soft if it still doesnt fix the issue.
   
6. Make sure your spring preload isnt sky high
   
7. Make sure your tires/wheels arnt fubar.
   
8. If problem persists then double check front diff/all diff mounts.

Nearly all wheelhop on FC is from the diff mounts. I have seen solid year vehicles have wheel hop due to rear springs/struts. I've driven with broken trailing arm bushings and lateral arm ***** joints and I didnt have wheel hop (Just insane dynamic toe which made the car unpredictable while drifting)

I'm assuming you have DTSS eliminators already, if not will make transitioning "exciting". Jack car and push wheel in and out. Check lateral rods, the ***** joins go and you can get 5-10deg of toe dynamically. Also makes clunking noise.