Post up photos of your fab'd V-Mounts!

Here's some photos from my TurboII:

Mounts, and bracing:






coolant routing, ducting, and how i mounted all the wiring/relays on the supports i removed.

 

Does the old oil make it go faster?

Great thread though! I was about to do my v mount next and wanted some ideas.

 

I'm not a v-mount -but this design could be used to achieve one... just thought I would throw it in here to give some ideas how to get there

Bolts in and out complete -and yes the rad is backwards -had to be flipped...

 

So how well does that cooling setup work in Vegas heat and such? Is it effective? Is your intercooler a nice brand name core or just some ebay thing?

 

drifting wise it's far more superior to my previous top mount setup without a doubt. it never heatsoaks and gets under powered. it was a little more laggy, but i adapted like the same day so its not much. @ irwindale at one point there was no line, so i got 4 laps in back to back, and then another 3 with waiting about 2 mins in line as it got more busy (cars coming on grid) and the temp immediately after the first non stop runs was 200*. it went back to 185 before going. all weekend it never went past 210 which some would trip out on, but 200 is what my halfway point is on my stock gauge and before the vmount i would cool down @ 3/4 on the oe gauge.

sitting in traffic during summer it had to be atleast 130* pavement temps (minimum) and that car would get warm (like 190) sitting in traffic. if i ran without a front bumper it would chill cool. but the GP bumper was higher than BN blocking alot of airflow. plus my oil cooler setup sucked. plus the air was bouncing off the ground, and just lingering. plus no hood vent... i threw on a clutch fan as added insurance and the car was staying around 170ish constantly (1/4 on the stock gauge)

i'd recommend Vmounting before front mount. i couldnt imagine how hot an FMIC car would get

 

Im using an NPR intercooler, and my v mount tabs are just mock up.
Just got a 44lb spool of.035 wire and ive gotta wire up a new 220 outlet

 

Thanks guys. Good ******* job.

 

I want to know how cool davedge's car stays with his setup. it looks clean, but his intercooler is horizontal on top and his radiator is back towards the enigine straight up and down. almost 90* angle to eachother. must work though.

 

I was using the stock rad last year for road race, at 400hp my water temps are rock solid at 200*F. this year with afco mustang rad it's doesnt' move from 190

 

Needs ducting, less couplers, new upper water pipe, and a bash bar. Also one of the I/C inlets got mashed.

 

Syritis

U should inject your windsheild wiper fluid into your piping...

 

you can use windshield washer fluid for a water/meth kit but the detergent tends to make the throttle plates stick. I've tried it as a IC sprayer and only notice that it removes heat soak, doesn't make any difference to cooling while moving.

I was thinking of spraying pre-turbo but the windshield nozzles don't atomize the fluid enough and causes tons of blade erosion.

all that said i'm saving up for a proper water/meth kit as we speak.

 

Gotta atomize it for sure

Im gonna run injector dynamics 1000cc thru the haltech for water/ methanol
Then u can have a map for water temp air temp boost pressure and tps.

 

My setup in the mocking stage.



Will be fully ducted, inclosed. I removed everything up front to get maximum area and flow at lower speed. (wich are seen compaired to road racing etc)

Unfortunately, because my old boss was a ******* retard and didnt give 2 ***** about his company and employee's, im jobless and this project is now on the back burner. Im pissed to say the least.

As for the water injection, Im making a dope setup for mine also.

As for running it pre turbo, dont bother, it wont do **** but change you compressor map. You need the biggest temperture difference to see the full effect of water injection. As for running 1000cc. Dont do it. you will be running them below the 1.3ms mark unless your gonna do some serious ******* tuning and power. injectors below 1.3ms become blind and inconsistant. As for a trigger, dont turn them on below 40deg. I delt with meth injection daily, i also rebuilt engines that grenaded do to meth problems daily. haha.

 

 

i lol'd.

 

inside the compressor housing is going to see the largest temp differential between the water/meth and charged air. I think i'll probably just use the 1/8npt port on the compressor outlet and try and find a nozzle to fit in there. no blade erosion, but i don't know if it'll splash off the other side???

 

I'm going to use the Rotary Works kit this season (install begins this weekend) I think I will customize it for better flow after the season though. It all depends on how well it does with my 300hp this year, because next year I'm going for 400.

Buckey what size is your intercooler piping?

 

I am in the works of putting together a much more efficent V-mount setup. It will take some time to come to the final product but here are the overall points i hope to accomplish.

The car is a 87 turbo II completely stock.Cool the radiator, intercooler and oil cooler with the use of a single inlet source
All air exhuasted through a single location. a vent in hood.
To not allow any air flow to exit below the vehicle. i.e all ducting will exit through the top hood vent.
The setup will be using 1 or 2 electric fans.
I am also going to try to prevent overlap of any products. So they will all get "fresh cool air".
Because of what i want to accomplish i believe i will need a swirl pot/ expansion tank. Since i will most likely eliminate a pressure cap from the radiator.

The main thing is the ducting. Again this is all still in the plan stage. I may draw something on ms paint to help understand what i mean.

 

What makes that different from anyones else?

 

The only difference I see is that everything is exhausting out the hood and not splitting beneath the car.

 

Eidk.
this is a terrible set up. your going to have high pressure air infront AND behind the oil cooler which will result it very little air moving through it and very little cooling. if you look at my set up. you'll see the oil cooler is above the rad/IC duct so it pretty much has it own air source. and i figure for the most part it's air flow exits through the hood vent but it can also go around the duct into the engine bay.

you'll never have room to build a duct from under the rad to the hood vent. the rad is too close to the motor and even less with the rad hoses in the way. I upgraded but weather pan so that most of my air exits through the wheel wells. what is left moving through the engine bay is necessary to keep the air circulating, this is important to stop the exhaust temps from cooking your intake manifolds, wastegate, brake lines and wires. I understand your reasons for wanting to keep the air above the car, but i believe that what remains under the car as nil effect on down force.

I also wouldn't worry about the fan on the IC. I have an override switch for my rad fan, when on the rad fan pulls air down through the IC then through the rad. yes i know thats backwards but while parked you're not going to need any IC cooling anyways. this feature just prevents heat soak. while moving there is easily enough air pressure inside the duct that the IC will have sufficient air flow even with the rad fan on.

 

I drove my car in the summer with no ducting or vented hood. My water and intake temps stayed quite cool for how hot it was. Once I get ducting I hope to start drifting.

 

track staff @ Irwindale dropped my car going up the ramp going off grid, and killed my vmount support... the chains like whip lashed into it, and bent it, so i need to address that, pull the motor again, and clean/re-paint the engine bay.. just waiting to make money.

the old oil is from cracked iron/catch can over filling.

 

quoted for truth!

oil cooler heat soaking everything else FTL.