lol you'll have space for tie rod ends then i'm sure.

mine i had to flap disc almost to the hole because the rotor would rub.

then i still had to machine the rotor for the tie rod endlink to not rub rotor.



but they're backwards entry proven. lol on the downside they feel slow - lock, to lock, and the eyeball method wasn't too good for me lol

 

pretty much some was a little informative but i guess the big guys like jtp and all them keep there stuff secret cause i havent heard a word from any of the big names on the forum

 

well obviously.
justin runs a shop. if he gave out the info for free it wouldnt keep his shop selling spindles.

business is business son. i'm the same way with paint work to local people. it's really easy to get burned.

 

mayb you could ask these guys from nz
http://csgarage.wordpress.com/fc3s-knuckle/

 

its all good mine are being finished up right now ill get rack spacers and see what kind of angle i can get out of these bitches

 

well guys after a week or so i finally got them back and holy **** im awesome besides the tie rod mount points being welded on upside down (drilled out works fine now) i couldnt ask for much more for a first time thing

welded up and thickened for durability then sanded down


on the car need 50 mm spacer to clear lower arm there are 2 25's and a 10 on there in this pic making the wheel 17x10 -45

 

nice. Thats some serious wheel fitment. I'm going to make a set of my own after the holidays. I'm not really looking to push the envelope as much as some of you guys. I just want better angle than stock. I'm running a 9" wheel in front and I don't want to have an offset lower than -15 in front.

 

that will be easy i took off a decent amount im gonna be running 45mm front overs and 50mm rears so it should be really agressive when its all done

 

I made a straight edge jig and copyed http://club13b.com/?p=207 there design if you cut properly I think it's something like a 45deg angle it give you tones of angle and drops your tie rod end angle that helps recuse Ackerman and I you have a lower car makes it closer to stock geometry. There pretty awesome and about a inch and a bit shorter then stock

 

gonna go cut my lower control arms and box them gonna go for a little less poke up front

 

is this mod/weld any safe. this is how i got my shell with this knuckles

 

The weld has to be very hot and be slow cooled to hold up. I'll post pics of how I did my knuckles when I get home. I did them alot different then you guys.

 

i would say no, and throw them away, get some stock knuckles and have them modded, i dont trust that weld was done by a veteran and was done right

Lloyd

 

Heres the first set. I also have hime joint ajustable outer tie rods and rack spacers to go along with it. I used ball joint bongs that i cut and welded in place.

They get a decent amount of angle and hold up very nicely

 

you dont have issues clearing the lower control arm?

 

get your hands on 326power knuckles if you can.

 

I had to hammer out the inner fender wells but no rubbing on the lowers control arms. And I'm only at -30 offset

 

ok i clear at -35 but i didnt know you were spaced that much

 

my knuckles are similar to this type. this is what mikerbike and i were discussing.

 

clean your garage lol.. panda_Riots look like to me are alot safer because they havent hacked at the original knuckle. not at all factory looking witch wouldnt realy matter as your cars are drift cars. mine is semi street im going to try and do mine like i fc3slide but im going to cut how much i want out drill into both sides thred them and get a open end bolt that is threded the hole length and wind them together till they meet the weld it together and smooth it over so it looks semi factory just a idea please tell me if it is silly...

 

Ackerman changes on the front steer setup is really new to me. But after looking at the MAX SAK for FC and what Sil8ty responded in this thread, moving the tie rod pickup inward increases ackerman.

More leading wheel angle is nice, but more trailing wheel angle to match creates less front drag while sliding.

 

you made as much since as this guy did http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVtEX1J7tXQ

 

ahh new i botched that one up lol ok um basically cut the knuckle and drill the two faces that have just been cut, then tap a thread in each hole and bolt them together flush again, then weld it together. then you have a shorter knuckle? or is that pointless

 

That sounds pretty strong.