The Official N/A Drifting Thread
01-02-08, 11:26 PM
#76
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01-03-08, 01:09 AM
#77
mazda mario
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All i have to add is this. Install a Pinion Snubber (Bump Stop) above the nose of the differential. I just replaced my differential mount and added one. Now theres no room for the differential to torque upwards and break the mount EVER again 
i can actually break the car loose and have fun now ^_^. I haven't started drifting yet but my suspension mods are Tokico HPs (blue) with eibach springs and i like it ALOT.
i can actually break the car loose and have fun now ^_^. I haven't started drifting yet but my suspension mods are Tokico HPs (blue) with eibach springs and i like it ALOT.can you get a pic of the pinion it sounds interesting cause i broken a few front diff mounts i wanna see how you did it for i can do it my self.
01-03-08, 02:19 AM
#78
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i drift na.
stock motor, exhaust, cone filter, illuminas with ground controls, and dtss elmiminators. stock gxl lsd thats on its last legs.
i have gpsports tie rod ends and angle spacers sitting here waiting to go on.
here's a shitty video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEqLPKELoa4
i wish i had a liiiiitle more power. i just lose speed as i go and can never catch back up, especially when the revs drop out of the powerband.
i rode in a SR s14 and was freaking out cause he could actually accelerate while sliding.
******* na's.
stock motor, exhaust, cone filter, illuminas with ground controls, and dtss elmiminators. stock gxl lsd thats on its last legs.
i have gpsports tie rod ends and angle spacers sitting here waiting to go on.
here's a shitty video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEqLPKELoa4
i wish i had a liiiiitle more power. i just lose speed as i go and can never catch back up, especially when the revs drop out of the powerband.
i rode in a SR s14 and was freaking out cause he could actually accelerate while sliding.
******* na's.
01-03-08, 11:43 AM
#80
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i drift na.
stock motor, exhaust, cone filter, illuminas with ground controls, and dtss elmiminators. stock gxl lsd thats on its last legs.
i have gpsports tie rod ends and angle spacers sitting here waiting to go on.
here's a shitty video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEqLPKELoa4
i wish i had a liiiiitle more power. i just lose speed as i go and can never catch back up, especially when the revs drop out of the powerband.
i rode in a SR s14 and was freaking out cause he could actually accelerate while sliding.
******* na's.
stock motor, exhaust, cone filter, illuminas with ground controls, and dtss elmiminators. stock gxl lsd thats on its last legs.
i have gpsports tie rod ends and angle spacers sitting here waiting to go on.
here's a shitty video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEqLPKELoa4
i wish i had a liiiiitle more power. i just lose speed as i go and can never catch back up, especially when the revs drop out of the powerband.
i rode in a SR s14 and was freaking out cause he could actually accelerate while sliding.
******* na's.
01-03-08, 12:04 PM
#81
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I second that. With "underpowered" cars you need the little power you do have to be there whenever you need it. The faster the power gets to the wheels the faster the wheels will spin.. Light weight flywheel, lighter pulleys, etc (I'm still new to the rotory) will help alot with drifting.
Also some one clear this up for me. Some one told me that the rotory has "natural lag" because it is basically a turbine design in the form of an engine. It sounded like the biggest bs I have heard so far about rotories but they insisted. They continued to state that the 4age is far more responsive and in drifting the 4age is better because it is torquey compared to the 13b. My first response was wtf. It makes no sense to me since even from the factory the bluetop 4age 16v was only rated at like 116 hp and like 98 ft/lbs of torque (no matter how responsive it is it should not perform better while drifting than something rated at 146hp and 138ft/lbs of torque) but can someone clear this up. The whole reason I'm switching platforms is for more power (than an ae86) in something different than everyone else in Tx and LA (an s chassis.... thats what about 95% of the people who drift here have).
Also some one clear this up for me. Some one told me that the rotory has "natural lag" because it is basically a turbine design in the form of an engine. It sounded like the biggest bs I have heard so far about rotories but they insisted. They continued to state that the 4age is far more responsive and in drifting the 4age is better because it is torquey compared to the 13b. My first response was wtf. It makes no sense to me since even from the factory the bluetop 4age 16v was only rated at like 116 hp and like 98 ft/lbs of torque (no matter how responsive it is it should not perform better while drifting than something rated at 146hp and 138ft/lbs of torque) but can someone clear this up. The whole reason I'm switching platforms is for more power (than an ae86) in something different than everyone else in Tx and LA (an s chassis.... thats what about 95% of the people who drift here have).
01-03-08, 06:37 PM
#83
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Sorry for all the questions.
Who sells those solid diff bracket/mount/bushing/things whatever they are? Or do you have to make your own? I've found all kinds of things on my own so far but thats the one thing I cant find anywhere.
I'm trying to have the best possible susp setup for the car to start with and my main thing is ridgidity. It seems people break those alot while drifting so getting a solid one looks to be in my best interest.
Who sells those solid diff bracket/mount/bushing/things whatever they are? Or do you have to make your own? I've found all kinds of things on my own so far but thats the one thing I cant find anywhere.
I'm trying to have the best possible susp setup for the car to start with and my main thing is ridgidity. It seems people break those alot while drifting so getting a solid one looks to be in my best interest.
01-04-08, 11:22 AM
#84
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Also some one clear this up for me. Some one told me that the rotory has "natural lag" because it is basically a turbine design in the form of an engine. It sounded like the biggest bs I have heard so far about rotories but they insisted. They continued to state that the 4age is far more responsive and in drifting the 4age is better because it is torquey compared to the 13b. My first response was wtf. It makes no sense to me since even from the factory the bluetop 4age 16v was only rated at like 116 hp and like 98 ft/lbs of torque (no matter how responsive it is it should not perform better while drifting than something rated at 146hp and 138ft/lbs of torque) but can someone clear this up. The whole reason I'm switching platforms is for more power (than an ae86) in something different than everyone else in Tx and LA (an s chassis.... thats what about 95% of the people who drift here have).
01-05-08, 12:25 AM
#85
mutt
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^^ i guess tha makes sence
random question though, well it kinda relates
someone recomended that a supercharger might be more effective for the FC for drifting than a turbo due to the consistancy of the boost
im not sure how this would play out
what do you guys think?
random question though, well it kinda relates
someone recomended that a supercharger might be more effective for the FC for drifting than a turbo due to the consistancy of the boost
im not sure how this would play out
what do you guys think?
01-05-08, 03:18 AM
#86
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Well I know with piston engines (I'm sure rotory engines are pretty much the same as far as turbo's go) there are so many things that can assist you you can virtually cut out lag alltogether or at least it will seem that way to the driver. As many people that run turbo setups in d1, fd, nopi, etc I'm sure it doesnt matter to the point of having to run a completely different setup.
To my knowledge there are only about 4 or 5 drivers (big name) that use superchargers and they all drive american cars with american enignes. I think the effect the s/c would have on the responsiveness of the engine would play more of a role than a turbo (since the s/c runs off of the engine much like an alternator and the turbo runs off of otherwise useless exhaust gas).
I'm still a newb to the rotory (and I still dont know as much as I would like about piston engines) so correct me if I'm wrong.
With the whole Corolla (ae86) thing versus fc....... coming from an ae86 imo the rx7 is a much better car for drifting. Not only more power but if you look at the suspension setup on a Corolla in comparison to an FC it seems extremely archaic or outdated even for it's time.
The rear susp setup IS NOT ADJUSTABLE AT ALL from the factory due to the solid rear end and as a whole it's just..... blegh. I love the ae86 but compared to other cars it's not that great. Now of course you can modify it to meet your needs but alot of the fab work that it requires could be invested into a much more suited track car.
Also the versatility of it is not that great at all but with an fc you can compete in a drift competition one day and the next day be in scca tearing up the track. In an ae86 it's not so easy.
Just look at Taka Aono's setup. He is running basically a 30k dollar 4age and not any where close to 300hp, where as 30k into an fc as a whole would get you much more than that. In short all i'm saying is the ae86 is not a very good drift car contrary to popular belief, but it is a great car that you can setup to do whatever you want, but it will take time, effort, money and patience (pro drivers have all of this especially the money). Which is why I am switching over, but I will get another ae86 some day.
To my knowledge there are only about 4 or 5 drivers (big name) that use superchargers and they all drive american cars with american enignes. I think the effect the s/c would have on the responsiveness of the engine would play more of a role than a turbo (since the s/c runs off of the engine much like an alternator and the turbo runs off of otherwise useless exhaust gas).
I'm still a newb to the rotory (and I still dont know as much as I would like about piston engines) so correct me if I'm wrong.
With the whole Corolla (ae86) thing versus fc....... coming from an ae86 imo the rx7 is a much better car for drifting. Not only more power but if you look at the suspension setup on a Corolla in comparison to an FC it seems extremely archaic or outdated even for it's time.
The rear susp setup IS NOT ADJUSTABLE AT ALL from the factory due to the solid rear end and as a whole it's just..... blegh. I love the ae86 but compared to other cars it's not that great. Now of course you can modify it to meet your needs but alot of the fab work that it requires could be invested into a much more suited track car.
Also the versatility of it is not that great at all but with an fc you can compete in a drift competition one day and the next day be in scca tearing up the track. In an ae86 it's not so easy.
Just look at Taka Aono's setup. He is running basically a 30k dollar 4age and not any where close to 300hp, where as 30k into an fc as a whole would get you much more than that. In short all i'm saying is the ae86 is not a very good drift car contrary to popular belief, but it is a great car that you can setup to do whatever you want, but it will take time, effort, money and patience (pro drivers have all of this especially the money). Which is why I am switching over, but I will get another ae86 some day.
01-05-08, 04:35 PM
#87
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ok... concerning the 86... it is not so much a horsepower thing with it... its power to weight ratio. This too is a very important part of the racing world. You can have a lead sled with 600 hp vs. an rx-7 with a baseline of 225hp with lightening of the chases and less upgrades than the opponent. The fc has a huge chance of winning. In the quarter mile it may be a loss but when it comes to control and other such you better watch out when it comes to lots of turns... just remember horsepower isn't everything when it comes to drift and racing... but it does help.
01-05-08, 05:31 PM
#88
Drunk favors for beers
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i drift na.
stock motor, exhaust, cone filter, illuminas with ground controls, and dtss elmiminators. stock gxl lsd thats on its last legs.
i have gpsports tie rod ends and angle spacers sitting here waiting to go on.
here's a shitty video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEqLPKELoa4
i wish i had a liiiiitle more power. i just lose speed as i go and can never catch back up, especially when the revs drop out of the powerband.
i rode in a SR s14 and was freaking out cause he could actually accelerate while sliding.
******* na's.
stock motor, exhaust, cone filter, illuminas with ground controls, and dtss elmiminators. stock gxl lsd thats on its last legs.
i have gpsports tie rod ends and angle spacers sitting here waiting to go on.
here's a shitty video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEqLPKELoa4
i wish i had a liiiiitle more power. i just lose speed as i go and can never catch back up, especially when the revs drop out of the powerband.
i rode in a SR s14 and was freaking out cause he could actually accelerate while sliding.
******* na's.
I've seen you drift at Kil Kare last season. Pretty good. Your hood wasn't rising sun though..
01-05-08, 08:25 PM
#89
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ok... concerning the 86... it is not so much a horsepower thing with it... its power to weight ratio. This too is a very important part of the racing world. You can have a lead sled with 600 hp vs. an rx-7 with a baseline of 225hp with lightening of the chases and less upgrades than the opponent. The fc has a huge chance of winning. In the quarter mile it may be a loss but when it comes to control and other such you better watch out when it comes to lots of turns... just remember horsepower isn't everything when it comes to drift and racing... but it does help.
True. But after a certain point any car has a limit (well any engine and base suspension design I should say). And dollar for dollar a car with more potential for power and a more advantageous susp design from the get go will allways hold an advantage. Motorsports require alot of the driver (not so much in drag racing where it is more about the car and the crew chief, i mean the driver probably has a hard time as well but in comparison to other types of racing....) and the better you are the better off you are but in a car that is easier to do as you intend it's even more so. I'm trying to keep this in terms of not doing any engine swaps or major fab. The difference in weight between an fc and an ae86 isnt great enough to overlook the power potential differences. If you want to talk about in the twisties just look at the Tsukuba challenge, fastest ae86 set a time of around 59 seconds(for the n2 type ae86 still retaining a 4ag of some sort). Respectable for an ae86, hell it's pretty damn fast but the fastest fc is probably somewhere around 56 sec if not faster. It's not always about power but sometimes it is about money and resources, also being realistic. Not everyone has the money to prepare a competitive ae86 in most sports, even when it's competing against others of it's kind. Sometimes in the end thats all it comes down to.
01-07-08, 12:32 AM
#92
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ok, i have never drifted a n/a fc...
but i have drifted my jap import turbo for about 18months now...
suspension wise... steering rack spacers are the best thing ever... i would personally get these straight away... spacers cost sfa, and help so much.
dtss, while you can drift with out it... removing it does help alot... they dont cost a huge amount either... so id definately recommend them
coilovers, i would definately advise you to get some, they will help heaps, car wont wobble around, camber tops are good for adjustability.
swaybars... meh, leave them stock for the time being...
camber link? they are pretty crappy, and have minimal adjustability, i wouldnt worry about getting one.
i have custom strut tops made by supernow... which were actually cheapish... they allow me to push the top of the suspension top back to gain castor... makes the steering wheel correct quicker, and feel more responsive
also
my power steering started acting all stuffed up, going heavy one moment, light the next... was really bad,
there are 2 electrical connections into the top of the powersteering pump... pull these out and it gets rid of 90% of the powersteering, made drifting easier in my opinion.
bracing is always good too... more the better...
but i have drifted my jap import turbo for about 18months now...
suspension wise... steering rack spacers are the best thing ever... i would personally get these straight away... spacers cost sfa, and help so much.
dtss, while you can drift with out it... removing it does help alot... they dont cost a huge amount either... so id definately recommend them
coilovers, i would definately advise you to get some, they will help heaps, car wont wobble around, camber tops are good for adjustability.
swaybars... meh, leave them stock for the time being...
camber link? they are pretty crappy, and have minimal adjustability, i wouldnt worry about getting one.
i have custom strut tops made by supernow... which were actually cheapish... they allow me to push the top of the suspension top back to gain castor... makes the steering wheel correct quicker, and feel more responsive
also
my power steering started acting all stuffed up, going heavy one moment, light the next... was really bad,
there are 2 electrical connections into the top of the powersteering pump... pull these out and it gets rid of 90% of the powersteering, made drifting easier in my opinion.
bracing is always good too... more the better...
lol
01-07-08, 08:42 AM
#94
ok, i have never drifted a n/a fc...
but i have drifted my jap import turbo for about 18months now...
suspension wise... steering rack spacers are the best thing ever... i would personally get these straight away... spacers cost sfa, and help so much.
dtss, while you can drift with out it... removing it does help alot... they dont cost a huge amount either... so id definately recommend them
coilovers, i would definately advise you to get some, they will help heaps, car wont wobble around, camber tops are good for adjustability.
swaybars... meh, leave them stock for the time being...
camber link? they are pretty crappy, and have minimal adjustability, i wouldnt worry about getting one.
i have custom strut tops made by supernow... which were actually cheapish... they allow me to push the top of the suspension top back to gain castor... makes the steering wheel correct quicker, and feel more responsive
also
my power steering started acting all stuffed up, going heavy one moment, light the next... was really bad,
there are 2 electrical connections into the top of the powersteering pump... pull these out and it gets rid of 90% of the powersteering, made drifting easier in my opinion.
bracing is always good too... more the better...
but i have drifted my jap import turbo for about 18months now...
suspension wise... steering rack spacers are the best thing ever... i would personally get these straight away... spacers cost sfa, and help so much.
dtss, while you can drift with out it... removing it does help alot... they dont cost a huge amount either... so id definately recommend them
coilovers, i would definately advise you to get some, they will help heaps, car wont wobble around, camber tops are good for adjustability.
swaybars... meh, leave them stock for the time being...
camber link? they are pretty crappy, and have minimal adjustability, i wouldnt worry about getting one.
i have custom strut tops made by supernow... which were actually cheapish... they allow me to push the top of the suspension top back to gain castor... makes the steering wheel correct quicker, and feel more responsive
also
my power steering started acting all stuffed up, going heavy one moment, light the next... was really bad,
there are 2 electrical connections into the top of the powersteering pump... pull these out and it gets rid of 90% of the powersteering, made drifting easier in my opinion.
bracing is always good too... more the better...
01-07-08, 08:34 PM
#95
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this is what my camber tops look like... the top bolts .. that actaully bolt to the car can be moved to any hole around the outside of the strut top .. so that it can be mounted on any angle...
I have mine pushed back towards the middle of the car... so I gain camber and castor... it is a bit of a trade off... you can go more castor or less camber ... or more camber and less castor.. etc
01-07-08, 09:07 PM
#96
Lives on the Forum
Difference between horsepower and torque?
Comparing the 13B to a 4AGE?
Going with a "flywheel/clutch combo" go get more power?
-Ted
Comparing the 13B to a 4AGE?
Going with a "flywheel/clutch combo" go get more power?
-Ted
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 01-08-08 at 08:18 AM. Reason: Remove unnecessary rudeness and flamebait...
01-07-08, 10:07 PM
#97
ARE wheel whore.
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what a great technical{edited}?? just chill and let them chat about whatever they want. why do you have to make it your life to flame on everyone? just chill we all love our cars and we all love different types of motorsports.
01-07-08, 10:55 PM
#99
Lives on the Forum
Let me go find it...
Here.
-Ted
Here.
This is one of the few times I have to say you may want to look at a flywheel/clutch combo to maximize what you got because efficacy will help. Sometimes its not what you have power wise but how you can use it. But thats just me. I may be a n00b to forums but I am old in the tuner scene.
-Ted
01-07-08, 11:32 PM
#100
My room mate made it to pro am with an NA fc than ran like 100% garbage, just keep your speed up, clutch kick when needed and dont lift lol.
LSD, coilovers and steering will help alot. Personally i think FCs benefit ALOT from soft rear damper. Mine are at max soft and the added grip feels really awesome!
LSD, coilovers and steering will help alot. Personally i think FCs benefit ALOT from soft rear damper. Mine are at max soft and the added grip feels really awesome!