paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

Drop Engineering makes delrin subframe bushings. Those still have some flex. Not much though.

mx-3_4evr

iTrader: (3)

This?

https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-...links-1014885/

gtufc3

alright, so i have an '88 gtu, I was wondering what a decent torque and rwhp would be to shoot for, no turbo, all I have done so fae is a K&N cone filter

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

800whp and 799rwtq.

gtufc3

damn 800 is a bit high, good, but hell,, I don't need anything that crazy

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

that's what you say now...

gtufc3

true, but my brother had an s14 with the sr20 swap and 300bhp and like 305tq he threw it around just fine, i know that's kinda comparing apples to oranges but they still weigh around the same

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

You can have fun in an NA, but more than that you need boost.

I started in the exact same spot as you. Still NA unfortunately.

ComicArtist

So, I was planning on deactivating my rear sway bar halfway through the day at Mineral Wells yesterday, but was having so much fun I completely forgot. I'm kinda pissed now, cause it'll be a while before my next event.

Sliding without power steering wasn't bad at all, much easier than I expected.

As far as alignment settings, I don't know what I have and honestly it felt fine. All there is done to the suspension is Parts Shop Max coils lowered all the way with max camber in the front. I'd really like to get toe arms for the rear, but I think I'm just going to suck it up and get DTSS eliminators and solid subframe/diff bushings.

As far as angle, I kinda felt like it was lacking with stock knuckles. Granted, this was my first event with the FC and I still have a lot to learn about the car, but I feel like I could do wayy better with more angle. So far, I've been looking at different kits and I'll probably end up going with Hotline knucks and extended ball joints, Abercrombie and Level7Tune only get around 50 degrees and Parts Shop Max is a little out of my price range.

So for the next event, I'll hopefully have power steering, a bucket seat, and knuckles!

gtufc3

kINCH would a 20b swap be worth it if I the motor and trans for a good price?

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

I personally have no experience with doing a 20B swap, but for the price you could do a tii swap with similar power and probably a better build for the same price.

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

If your looking for a 20b you better be willing to spend a minimum of 6k just to have it running. Thats an unopened keg that you have no idea whats inside.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

^This.

And that's assuming you do all the Fab work and stuff to. For the same price you could have a rebuilt TII with some extras and probably money to spare.

Andrew Petersen

thought i would post my set up now im done

ENGINE

rebuilt 13brew

haltech sprint re ecu

ebay turbo manifold

turbonetics big shaft t-66 turbo

turbosmart 50mm wastegate

725ccprimary 1000cc secondarys ID injectors

aftermarket fuel rails

fuel labs FPR

all russel AN- fittings and braded fuel lines

turbosmart manual boost controler

koyo rad

stock fd Efans

custom intercooler set up

stock fc oil cooler

turbosmart vport BOV

weapon R catch can

greddy pully kit


INTERIOR

pro sport gauges

innovate wideband

corbeau seat

taylor battery relocation kit

grant steering wheel

keep it clean switch pannel

EZ2WIRE wiring harness


SUSPENSION/ BRAKES

stance coilovers 9k/7k

stoptech rotors

stock fc calipers

custom modified knuckles and super camber mod

running 1degree camber in rear with 0 toe and up front 0 toe and 7 degrees of camber full contact at full lock

no sway bars drives awesome no issues on highway either

EXTERIOR

gp sport body kit

XXR 526 WHEELS 17x10+20


DRIVETRAIN

ACT max xtream 6 puck sprung clutch

cusco 2way diff

solid diff mount

toe eliminator bushing soon to go in as well and new rear subframe bushings

stock turbo 2 trans

probably some more stuff im missing. over all dyno numbers were 386hp and 320ft torque at 13psi

http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/a...5/IMG_0596.jpg

Jooce

what do you guys think about tein super drifts? hows the camber adjustment

AngelsAndBombs

Idk if this is the right place, but thought i'd ask.

Im in the market for rear overs. I kind of want to stick with 30mm, but realistically, how wide of a wheel would work with this? I want something along the lines of a 10" +15ish and running 0'(ish) camber. I just think 50mm just look huge, especially on a vert.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

I have Tein Flex with Super Drift springs. I think they're the same, except the valving is different. Plenty of camber adjustment up front was running -3 degrees for a while. Now that I don't drift (as much) it's back to like 1.5~

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

Just wanted to drop this in here, in case you weren't aware ;-)

Parts Shop Max - fc rx7 front and rear links

I'm definitely getting some of the subframe and diff risers.

Drift89fc

Hey can anyone tell me in good detal or post a pic of what i need to raise my hood on my fc. Ive done it before but on other cars. And you all know that the mounts are slanted so i cant just slam some washers in it and be done. And ive heard of some people runing trailer rims..... What size and offset will look good on my car?? I can roll my fenders if i need to. I want the full look in my wheel wells and she is going low.

ComicArtist

To vent/space the rear of your hood, you'll actually need to put your washers/spacers/whatever UNDERNEATH the hood hinge, where the hinge bolts to the chassis. It's a flat surface right there so it'll be easiest to judge how much it'll lift your hood.

As far as size and offset, run whatever you want that makes you happy. I see a lot of 15x8 trailer wheels on FC's, I'm not overly fond of the look but whatever floats your boat.


Now for a question of my own: I'm looking at camber adjustment for the rear and it looks like there's two ways to do it. I see people using individual camber links on each side, that resemble sway bar endlinks, and there's a central camber rod in the middle of the subframe.

Now, do I need all of these or will the individual links work by themselves? I want to run solid bushings, but with the single camber link in the center you need flex in your bushings. It looks like the individual links just raise/lower the inside of the trailing arm however.

mikerbike

I read the whole thread once. That's the only reason I thought to look back at the first few pages.

Why not the MAX solid bushings that pivot?

ComicArtist

Thank you! Simply because I haven't gotten to that yet, with PBM it's easy to drop a couple grand in suspension, and I just need to dial out some camber in the rear effectively while still inexpensive.

Still trying to debate whether going with solid bushings is worth it or not though, and if I should just go ahead and get the single camber link and deal with the stock subframe bushings.

Drift89fc

Sweet thanks. I didnt know if their was enuf room their for that. As for the wheels i dont know how to choose offset. And fifteens would be small wouldnt it??? Sixteens would be nice. Id like to be able to roll my fenders a bit so the wheels and fenders line up.

ComicArtist

Offset depends on how far you want the wheels to stick out. Your offset and width have to work together to get the look you want

Drift89fc

Ok so lets say id like to run a ten or eleven inch wide rim on the rear and a eight on the front and i want them to run farly flush with the sides with the fenders rolled just a little bit to give it a nice look with streched tires. How would i measure it????? By the way thanks alot for the help its hard to figure out how to do this.