DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

Have run Mazdatrix heim outer tie rods before, and changed to stock, and now have swapped to godspeed. (mazdatrix broke upon hitting control arm)

picked up some godspeed tie rod ends on a stupid good deal....
after opening the package and just feeling the parts, wonder if it's stupid to even buy these on a deal.

Red piece that connects heim joint (outer tie rod) to the inner tie rod feels like total "****". I don't even know what kind of metal it is..... if it is metal, I would assume it is.
Seems like so much stress that is put directly on this piece.

My main question.... who has broken these? Is that red connecting piece really stronger than what I think it is? Might just use these for track use, but may for daily driving.

I think the tie rod end may be indestructible if I literally get a block of hardened steel and tap each end to replace the red connecting nut.

I know these aren't quality parts... so dont blow up this thread with hate mail, just need useful information.

ruddyrid

iTrader: (8)

I would say you should be OK. We sell Megan Racing arms and rod ends at my work and never had any customers with issues. I would suggest doing a site:zilvia.net search on Google for reviews on GSP (God speed project) or Megan Racing rod ends.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

The god speed tie rods are garbage. The turnbuckle is some soft aluminum rather than steel. And the hiem joints didnt move unless i hit them with a hammer, not smooth at all.

Posted pics. I bought the god speed after the stocks wore out, saw the quality and went ahead and bought the Mazdatrix the next day.

I have no idea how you broke the Mazdatrix units but they are really stout I would get another set before the godspeed.

Zenki FC3S

I make super strong tie rod ends.

Used to run brands that broke and bent. Now i make my own

Zenki FC3S

My parts are made of chromolly 4000 steel, and 304 stainless steel. Strong stuff

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

+1 unsure how you broke the Mazdatrix ones.. My heims are wearing out, but the rest of the hard parts seem solid.

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

lock to lock the bottom of the mazdatrix hit the lower control arm on Fc. heard a big whack one night drifting, and it wasn't until the next day when the tapered portion popped out of the steering knuckle.
i'll run these for one event, and then use some stronger metal that i'll tap for the heim and inner tie rod to replace that weird metal connecting piece.

for $40 on amazon for godspeed tie rod ends, it's hard to beat...
especially when i'm buying tow hitches, tires, wheels just to get to the track before school gets serious.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

Bruh... there is no way for the tie rod to hit the control arm. If the link fell out of the knuckle then it wasnt installed properly.

Drifting and putting low quality suspension parts is literally the worst thing you could do. Like I said I got the God speeds.... Its in my pic.... literally bought the Mazdatrix the next morning without even installing the God Speeds.

Not trying to be rude but you should reevaluate drifting if $150 bucks is a cost you cant take. Spend the money good parts

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

So I have access to an alignment machine. To check my godspeed tie rod ends, I put my front wheels on the turn plates and maxed my steering left and right. The joint bonded before I could fully turn my . wheel. My guess is that the bind put so much pressure on the joint, the joint broke.
And on another note, the sleeve was not long enough after I aligned it. I was in a few threads of engagement. Just look at the pictures above, the godspeed ones are about half an inch shorter.

Anyways, I custom made sleeves, but that does not change the binding issue.

So I eventually custom made my own tie rod ends. Did some measuring, bought a reamer, rod ends, custom sleeve. I have not had a chance to put my car back on the rack to check for bind as well as if my sleeve threading is in that sweet spot, plenty of thread engagement without bottoming out. It should be close since I made the length according to my modified godspeeds.

Drooling a hole straight through and using a butt and bolt can work, but I was afraid of the possible rattle

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

Only going to run these for a season.. Maybe only an event. After use for a few weeks I don't feel comfortable driving with these installed on the street for reasons others have pointed out. As they were a deal for $40 shipped through Amazon, The idea of them breaking on the track or on the street isn't worth the savings.

DR_Knight

iTrader: (23)

Bruh it can happen.
Tapered section stayed barely stuck in knuckle one day after breaking as these parts seem to sag too low. Depends on steering angle and knuckle design. First cheap stupid part I put on my car and wanted to "try" them and saw how badly designed they were after opening the box while eating lunch. I do agree with putting quality parts on drift setups, just was hoping that Chinese part quality would have increased as quality in electronics has increased with a vast reduction in price, such as the chip or rasp pi. Guess manufacturing parts such as these has been stuck behind the times and will never figure out how to make quality parts for cheap.

Going to check out some of the options pointed out by others, if not then go to stock for the safety and clearance factor