FD drifting setup for camber, caster and toe
#1
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FD drifting setup for camber, caster and toe
I'm looking for the best starting point for a drift setup for the RX-7 FD in regards to camber, caster and toe.
Have recently installed Kazama Tie Rod End, URAS Super Tie Rod, Super Now Rear Toe Control Upper & Lower Arm Links and I need the configuration settings for the workshop to make it ready for a race next weekend.
Car has fully adjustable KEI Office coilovers and runs 225x45/17 front and 235x45/17 rear.
Have recently installed Kazama Tie Rod End, URAS Super Tie Rod, Super Now Rear Toe Control Upper & Lower Arm Links and I need the configuration settings for the workshop to make it ready for a race next weekend.
Car has fully adjustable KEI Office coilovers and runs 225x45/17 front and 235x45/17 rear.
#2
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There are multiple threads about this already.
I would leave f/r toe to zero.
Caster, would not mess with. I mean if the car seems sluggish straightening out when you let go fo the wheel, maybe you could mess with it until it feels alright.
Dont need much rear camber at all. The more negative camber you have, the less grip you're going to have.
Up front, you want max grip with the wheels turned in either direction so if you're getting a shitload of positive camber with the wheel at full lock, remove camber until they are as close to zero as you can get, maybe a little in the negative since you wont be driving full lock to full lock MOST of the time.
I would leave f/r toe to zero.
Caster, would not mess with. I mean if the car seems sluggish straightening out when you let go fo the wheel, maybe you could mess with it until it feels alright.
Dont need much rear camber at all. The more negative camber you have, the less grip you're going to have.
Up front, you want max grip with the wheels turned in either direction so if you're getting a shitload of positive camber with the wheel at full lock, remove camber until they are as close to zero as you can get, maybe a little in the negative since you wont be driving full lock to full lock MOST of the time.
#3
I have set the front: camber -2deg, caster stock limits, toe 0deg
and rear: camber -1deg, toe 0deg
I allso modded the stock rear rollbar so its stiffer, seems to made big difference in the car
and rear: camber -1deg, toe 0deg
I allso modded the stock rear rollbar so its stiffer, seems to made big difference in the car
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Thanks for the replies, though I hear so many different things from different people ...
I found this more general guideance on camber, caster and toe: http://driftjapan.com/blog/car-parts...ar-suspension/
Will have to do a manual tuning of the car, will try different settings while on the track this weekend and hopefully I will find something that works well.
I found this more general guideance on camber, caster and toe: http://driftjapan.com/blog/car-parts...ar-suspension/
Will have to do a manual tuning of the car, will try different settings while on the track this weekend and hopefully I will find something that works well.
#6
This way the tyre will last longer.
Then choose the tire that you can spin.
The tyre pressure make allso a big difrence on traction, only if you do go down on traction you will lose speed.
I can post some pics of the rear rollbar modification if some one is interested...
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Please do post some photos :-)
After the last round in the Norwegian drifting series (PowerDrift) with my manually-set toe-configuration the car worked really well. The biggest problem is still not enough steer-lock, but it's far better than original so I can have much wider angles now.
Will replace the rear Upper and Lower links before next competition.
After the last round in the Norwegian drifting series (PowerDrift) with my manually-set toe-configuration the car worked really well. The biggest problem is still not enough steer-lock, but it's far better than original so I can have much wider angles now.
Will replace the rear Upper and Lower links before next competition.
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