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FC Hydro ebrake setups *pics please*

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Old 12-29-10, 10:02 PM
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ha dood im totally serious


stock fc's run...

my car has broken at almost EVERY event since i went turbo...
fuses, diff, and injectors just off the top of my head have gone out on me




never had a prob with my S4 na
Old 12-30-10, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
ha dood im totally serious


stock fc's run...

my car has broken at almost EVERY event since i went turbo...
fuses, diff, and injectors just off the top of my head have gone out on me




never had a prob with my S4 na
i remember this time last year when i was all down in the dumps about my TII motorswap never running, and always blowing up...
once i actually started investing money into it, and buying everything of quality, and street driving the car everyday, all those issues seem to work themselves out, and then you have a really solid car.

in all reality i haven't had many issues with my motor this year. i had the one built, then had a coolant seal stick into the iron from overheating it, when the gauge was in a "good" position temp wise after the VMount... then when we jammed it back in over night for the pro-am event, it was cutting out everytime i flipped transitions... aside from that dude, my car has been good, and really surprised me...
they really are allergic to stupid as i used to be
Old 12-30-10, 02:22 AM
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I do tend tend to use the foot brake and ebrake at the same time many times, Im going to have to get used to one or the other in the gold car. I should get a 2nd caliper setuppp
Old 12-30-10, 05:52 AM
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i always find myself using both to wash speed.
cable brake has yet to fail me.
Old 12-30-10, 01:52 PM
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That tells me something is seriously wrong with mine haha, I've got the cable snugged up tight and it still doesn't lock up, even in the snow. Barely holds my car in place.
Old 12-31-10, 12:20 PM
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e-brake cables stretched ... ? That's a common issue.
Old 12-31-10, 12:24 PM
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My cables have stretched quite a bit, but I've got all the slack taken out of them through the adjustment bolt. I've got maybe 4 clicks on the handle before it won't pull any further, and I can still coast to a stop.

Maybe its' pads and rotors. Not looking forward to paying for that though.
Old 12-31-10, 03:23 PM
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resurface the rotors if you can...

then hawk pads
Old 12-31-10, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
ha dood im totally serious


stock fc's run...

my car has broken at almost EVERY event since i went turbo...
fuses, diff, and injectors just off the top of my head have gone out on me




never had a prob with my S4 na
I know you were being serious. It's very depressing seeing your baby (or trick bitch **** *****?) on jackstands or in pieces.

Driving is fun. SPending shitloads of money replacing broken **** makes me wanna cry so i'm just trying to build a fun car from the get go. So far, it's been pretty fun! I wanted a sick turbo rotary but not the pain that comes from failure. It's true what they say. If you do all your own ****, you're gonna pop a few of em before you get it right. I can't handle that sort of stress and building cars shouldn't be stressful. it's supposed to be fun.
Old 12-31-10, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by laramiejoe
This thing rotary? What engine mounts are you using? Engine in stock location? What trans? Regular ol' 4-speed with the side mount shifter?

Just curious, because I'm finally about to start on getting my dogbox in the car, and I've been worried about the shifter location from the start. Mainly because I really don't wanna put a hydro handbrake in the car, but your shifter location looks pretty good. If mine comes out about the same place, I'd be happy with that, and just make a handle that moved it back and to the center.

You like the trans?
I'm running a LS2 and a Tex Racing T-101 4sp -basically the same setup Mike Essa ran... when I had the small wheels it was NA rotary -I'm now on 17" RPF1

Love the gearbox.... as far as shifter location the linkage is on the outside of the trans -there are tons of different configurations available. My shifter is a bit too far forward hence the 6" rear offset lever.
Old 01-02-11, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Daviticus
My cables have stretched quite a bit, but I've got all the slack taken out of them through the adjustment bolt. I've got maybe 4 clicks on the handle before it won't pull any further, and I can still coast to a stop.

Maybe its' pads and rotors. Not looking forward to paying for that though.
Or maybe it's your calipers themselves. i made a poor purchase with my 5 lug conversion and my ebrake levers on one of the calipers is rusted so bad it wont do anything.
Old 01-02-11, 06:32 AM
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The calipers are in good repair, but I suppose they could stand to be cleaned up a bit. The car did sit for a few months before I got it, so it is entirely possible. Thank God I can slide this car with a little weight-shift action instead of a healthy e-brake tug.
Old 01-02-11, 05:14 PM
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if you drive correctly, then you shouldnt need the ebrake...


i use it if my angle is too shallow or for a decreasing radius turn that gets really tight



thats me tho
Old 01-02-11, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NoPistons!
I know you were being serious. It's very depressing seeing your baby (or trick bitch **** *****?) on jackstands or in pieces.
for sure... but when im done with the fc, haha its gonna be sick
Old 01-02-11, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
if you drive correctly, then you shouldnt need the ebrake...


i use it if my angle is too shallow or for a decreasing radius turn that gets really tight



thats me tho
That's kinda where I'm at with it.
Old 01-03-11, 07:00 AM
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.....
Old 01-03-11, 09:42 AM
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lol i'm with you on this one....^^
Old 01-03-11, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
lol i'm with you on this one....^^


I wrote something really mean because I have been in a hateful mood lately... then I did a ninja edit -because I'm a nice ******* guy dammit.
Old 01-03-11, 07:27 PM
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i need to learn ninja edit... maybe it would keep people from hating on me, after i get pissed at ignorant comments... lol
Old 01-06-11, 02:37 PM
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lmk how the brackets turn out please show pics ill be all over them if they look clean and work flawless
Old 01-07-11, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
if you drive correctly, then you shouldnt need the ebrake...


i use it if my angle is too shallow or for a decreasing radius turn that gets really tight



thats me tho
Depends on the track layout[adams] and I use the ebrake sometimes during tandem. Especially you need to do a quick correction to stay close, or "suck up" to the dood sliding a few feet in front or next to your door.. Actualy I notice that I use left foot brake and ebrake alot when chasing during tandem staying close to the guy in front.. hmmm.. anyone else inputs/ experience?

I already stretched two sets of cables.. I would tighten the nut and itd be maxed out or it would just spin the cable with it Thats why I went hydro.. Got tired of replacing the cable.
Old 01-07-11, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
i need to learn ninja edit... maybe it would keep people from hating on me, after i get pissed at ignorant comments... lol
If people take your venting on them seriously they have bigger things to worry about. Like a healthy dose of "grow some ******* *****" and "unbunch some panties"


Do what i do. Get drunk, motorboat some big, big ******* and twist up some rasta party. Everything becomes clear after that. You dont need an ebrake. I say i do but it's just because i'm lazy and prefer to do **** the easy way.


Speaking of "easy way", a peice of aluminum with some big *** set screws in it to act as a junction box (you bmx guys think of cable splitters for a gyro setup) and stretched cables aint ****. Drill, tap, saw, scraps and some set screws is all you need.... Call it the "brake bastard" or something cool like that. Dave Jacobs would be pissed. Dont call it that....

Something like this but not really. It's a poor excuse for a visual but you drill holes for the cable to slip through the aluminum (3x) and then you clamp the **** out of the set screws and presto, you can "remove" the stretch from your cable.

Zenki, this is your ******* fault Mr. "i think outside the goddamned box so **** what you say".
Old 01-07-11, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by NoPistons!
If people take your venting on them seriously they have bigger things to worry about. Like a healthy dose of "grow some ******* *****" and "unbunch some panties"


Do what i do. Get drunk, motorboat some big, big ******* and twist up some rasta party. Everything becomes clear after that. You dont need an ebrake. I say i do but it's just because i'm lazy and prefer to do **** the easy way.


Speaking of "easy way", a peice of aluminum with some big *** set screws in it to act as a junction box (you bmx guys think of cable splitters for a gyro setup) and stretched cables aint ****. Drill, tap, saw, scraps and some set screws is all you need.... Call it the "brake bastard" or something cool like that. Dave Jacobs would be pissed. Dont call it that....

Something like this but not really. It's a poor excuse for a visual but you drill holes for the cable to slip through the aluminum (3x) and then you clamp the **** out of the set screws and presto, you can "remove" the stretch from your cable.

Zenki, this is your ******* fault Mr. "i think outside the goddamned box so **** what you say".
http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-Knarps.../dp/B0017GM1CG

Odyssey Knarps. i've had that thought on my mind ever since dudes started saying cables stretch...

cables only stretch once, and generally when theyre new.... after that is when they were, and start to fray, and ultimately...snap.... they're not rubber bands.
maybe i have good luck, but worry about it when it happens...

my ebrake sucked... took justins advice, and got good pads for the rear... done deal, now theyre solid.
hydro is cool too. go for it. im too lazy to mess with it. plumbing separate brake lines, and making separate calipers is where i draw the line..
Old 01-08-11, 03:16 AM
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I've been trying to hunt the knarps down that came with my evos but i really dont think they're beefy enough for anything but gas cap or hatch cables. For sure good for shortening throttle cables.

They simply are not beefy enough i dont think. Worth a try but i'd hate going in hot, yanking that bitch up and having the cable pull through the knarp!

Bmx related, i'm building my tierra frame back up to hit the parks this spring. W000000!
Old 01-08-11, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by NoPistons!
I've been trying to hunt the knarps down that came with my evos but i really dont think they're beefy enough for anything but gas cap or hatch cables. For sure good for shortening throttle cables.

They simply are not beefy enough i dont think. Worth a try but i'd hate going in hot, yanking that bitch up and having the cable pull through the knarp!

Bmx related, i'm building my tierra frame back up to hit the parks this spring. W000000!
multiple knarps. lol seriously though you can tighten them enough to cut through the cable pretty much. ive tried to brake bmx brake cables in anger by pulling them as hard as i could... never slip. yours looks way better no doubt though. more is always better.

pretty sure you'd have to drill the knarps a little to fit ebrake cable anyways.

throttle cables are easyyyy if you make them from BMX cables. Ubrake arm knarps for the throttle pedal (perfect sized circle) and odyssey knarps at the Throttlebody. brake cables break often though, so that could be annoying.

Dont dooo itttt... selll ittttt!!! i'm trying to sell mine... the only shitty thing is no one wants to buy a bike for more than like $500 when i paid $2,600 for everything... i'm torn.. i wanna part it out, but it is a rad pit bike to floss on..


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