Howdy
I'll keep this simple so I don't get stabbed in the eye for asking questions.
I cut and shut my knuckles the other day (can post pics up of you desire, if you don't care, fine, whatever, suit yourself)
Now my fronts hit on everything (18 x 8 +12)
I don't wanna go back to 17s when I can just fab up stuff for less
So I'm wondering how others found the steering when they did this. Need to get them ***** away from the chassis rail and swaybar

 

Interested in seeing your knuckles. I would like to do this as well, but I've never seen it done on an FC.

 

keep this thread going, im curious to see how it turns out

 

ended up cutting the knuckle and laying the outer part underneath the inner if that makes sense, to help with bumpsteer.
if i could find a spare set i'd just do it but fc's are pretty scarce around here, plus there are some wicked drifters and fabricators on this forum, be great to see what they do!
long as they don't yell at me for my dodgy work!

 

Sweet! I hadn't thought about doing that for the bump steer. By how much did you reduce the length of the knuckle? I have no clue how much I should take out. And I hve an FC parts car so I'll probably just pull the knuckles off it.

 

15mm but I wish I went more, no one has bothered with an FC down here before so I went fairly conservative. Still yet to wop rack spacers in tho. Also bought the knuckle arm in for less Ackerman. Feels mint on the track, but I'd like to do a more aggressive one up later. Just need to give this lower ball joint arm, wheel spacers and wider guards a burl and see if it's better or worse. Old mate from NZ with that LS6 FC3 looks to running longer LCAs.

 

I extended my ball joints 1.5 inches.

 

what tie rod did you use with 1.5" of extension?

 

Feel an improvement? Man those knuckles look short. Or maybe I was just super weak with mine!

 

So is the main advantage to extending the ball joint bracket simply to gain more neg camber/extend the track width? In doing so, moving the wheel farther out to reduce rubbing at full lock?

And what tie rods are you using? Haven't really started pricing brands yet.

 

Why does everyone install the balljoints ontop of the flcas? You do realize it creates more of an angle for the tie rod and it still deflects the same as being on the bottom but with the added rake it binds up right?
I had my car like that for 20mins and it was the scariest feeling ever sticking at lock...you should look at it and switch it back and compare.

 

as for tie rods, he added to those to make up the distance added by the ball joint. we are planning on making a set of the extended ball joints for mine, but sticking with between 1/2 and 3/4 so that the factory tierods, with the rack spacers can be used, anyone have any experience to say it wont be enough?

 

i run my ball joint arms under my LCAs, that said binding at lock is nothing new, s13s do it and ae86s with s13 front ends do it even worse, i found the fc is really good for not binding, maybe its cos i was soft with my knuckle mod

 

It's called front steer. Look into it

 

The coilover connects to the knuckle, not the control arm. Since moving the ball joint to the top of the control arm doesn't change ride height, the tie rod angle won't change.


It's pretty much case-by-case and personal preference. I added 1.5" to my control arms to get the tire away from the frame rail AND get the wheel away from the tension control rod at full lock.

I also extended my stock tie rods to match.

 

I'll post pictures of my tierod extensions when I get home but to answer another question, I flipped them to give my control arm more room to move up and down. And it actually puts the ball joint at a very good angle with the knuckle. I've had no binding issue at all with them this way, before and after I extended the lower ball joint. Also, to answer the first question, I did it to improve the clearance at full lock with my 17x9 up front and for the wider front track.

 

extended an inch

CIMG2164.jpg?t=1327376025
CIMG2165.jpg?t=1327376059

 

also.. i explained all of this **** in the drift setup thread sticky at the top of the page.

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...postcount=1325

 

what do you have for tie rod ends, the adjustment nut on the tie rod looks longer than the mazdatrix kit

 

mazdatrix bump stop kit things. you have to call them and ask for just the nut things. they will probably laugh at you and say it wont work but dont listen to them. then you have to trim them down to allow for adjustability.

 

 

^^^ Very nice. On a similar subject, has anyone tried moving the ball joint forward to increase caster. If I ever decide to extend the balljoint, I will might as well try moving it forward while I'm at it. Also, I really want to correct the roll center with this little baby.

Problem is tough, how do I make it.

 

Do all you guys trailer your cars, or street drive them? I'd be scared to street drive on those modified parts. I'm reading around like a madman about steering angle mods, but I currently drive my car to events and use it as a backup DD. Im a bit nervous to proceed.

 

Just got my Abercrombie knuckles with 1.5in extended ball joints and extended tie rods. I need to get some pictures, it widened my front wheelbase quite a bit, can't run 17x10's up front anymore.

 

easier solution to more camber




i trailer my car but i think it is strong enough to daily. i know plenty of people with similar mods on daily driven s13s