Marck

iTrader: (2)

Is there anyway to make the engine bay cooler when drifting? any mods out there to make it more ventilated? is removing the belly pan bad if i have a radiator panel already? thanks any suggestion would help

Punished

vents in your hood will help a great deal. Do not do the stupid spacers in the rear to cant the hood. **** barely does anything.

USS CJ

Def keep the undertray, people dont realize how crucial ducting is.

Get a bigger radiator, make sure the clutch fan is working correctly, bleed the radiator properly , get a vented hood.

Ya.

blimp

iTrader: (2)

vented hood on a rotary is a must. Oh and you could heatwrap/foil stuff. Proper Ducting.

Marck

iTrader: (2)

would a turbo II hood help? and what do you mean by proper ducting? is there anymods on how to cut vents on the hood? like a write up

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

ill do a writeup for cutting vents

1. draw on your hood what you want your vent to look like
2. cut along line with a grinder.

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

Marck

iTrader: (2)

dam hahah i meant ones that wont look shitty if i do it on spot

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Are you having over heating issues or something? I have found that the stock cooling system in an FC works perfectly fine even for some pretty hard driving. In my '88 I put in a Koyo aluminum radiator and it didn't cool any better than my stock radiator.

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

Whoa, a serious post by funkjaw? This behavior must be stopped.
How do you know the Koyo didn't cool better than the stocker?

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Marck

iTrader: (2)

no i just want to know ways on preventing it during hard drifting

lonetlan

Does anyone have any info on an aftermarket coolant air separator? That will defiantly help keep the engine cooler.

Maybe this will help....
If your still stock(engine wise), your coolant system will be more than enough to do some drifting. You do get time to let everything cool down between runs. Upgrade the radiator to a more efficient one(search before asking), as well as using an aftermarket gauge to monitor the temperature. At this time, the stock fan is still great to have. You mentioned a Turbo II hood, so that leads me to believe you have a N/A engine. Yes a turbo II hood will keep the engine cool, but one thing to keep in mind is that a non turbo rotary engine can be put to more stress due to the fact that it doesn't get as hot as a turbo II engine in this situation. Ducting will help in guiding cold air into the radiator, and not letting that cold air blow-by the radiator and oil cooler. There are many methods on how to cool the engine bay as well as, in addition to, the engine. Choose smart and respectively.

Hope I helped!

USS CJ

UGH.

He learned this on the TOUGE

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Nope, one of the many things I learned from the owner of Rotorsports which I have worked next to at my smog shop for the past 5 years.

My stock one sprung a leak so I put in a koyo and noticed the temps weren't any cooler than with my stock radiator. I asked Paul about it (owner, 30+ year rotary specialist) and he verified it.

USS CJ

I guess adding cooling capacity is useless.

Is that why race cars run stock radiators?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

The engine bay is suppose to be a negative pressure zone.

Air will go from high to low pressure zones and will take the path of least resistance.

Air from the front of the car(high pressure) goes in and passes through the radiator because the zone behind it is less pressure. The air then floats around the engine bay and then down through the tranny tunnel/bottom of car.

A spaced rear hood will not be beneficial for this system because it's letting high pressure zone air into the engine bay. The air from the windshield zone fights with radiator air to fill the engine bay and can decrease the radiators efficiency due to the pressure differential possibly lessening.
On the other hand, this system doesn't fail completely because it's still forcing air exchange in the engine bay and still works when you're sideways.

The undertray is VITAL to keeping the engine bay a negative zone and to force the air through the radiator. Without it, the air will just go around the radiator instead of through it. It can also equalize the engine bay air preventing a pressure differential.

Vent hoods must be designed correctly to actually suck air out of the engine bay.
The hole must have an upward ramp in front of it to create a negative pressure zone. Placement is key as well. Put it too close to a high pressure zone and you may get air being forced into it versus pulling air away.

You can see the design on the undertrays. The louvers are pointing away from the speeding air so it pulls air away.


Then there's radiant heat. Heat shielding does wonders at keeping the heat off close proximity objects. I actual have overheating issues on long track sessions because I don't have a heat shield on my turbo and it cooks the LIM.

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

That's because the radiator only affects the temperature under more load than usual. The thermostat affects the temperature ceiling, so I'm not sure where you're getting that the engine temperature should be lower. A better radiator should only affect the ability of the engine to stay at normal operating temperature in extreme conditions.

RE TurboII

iTrader: (2)

digi just slapped ya'll with some knowledge

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

see: dmax hood.

That's a damn proper hood.


Expensive but proper.

So, who's running a dual pass rad on here. Are they the suck or the ****?

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Good point.