I know my ebrake has been pretty crappy and I've rarely used it to initiate or extend drifts.
My last event had a 3rd gear Ebrake intended initiation but I ended up clutch kicking. I wondered if I would have done better ebraking like the others.

What setups do you guys have to make them useful?

Something simple as tightening it?
Different pads?
Wild like a hydraulic setup(if so how is it done)?

Post info and pics here!!

 

Bump, would like to see some hydro ebrake FD setups

 

Yeah, I've been wondering if there's a tricky way of using the stock calipers with a hydraulic ebrake or if a second set of calipers dedicated to them.

 

its really easy to set up you mount the handle run the tubes to your master cylinder and put them in between the lines for the rear brakes and the master cylinder... bleed it and its good to go

 

i would try new pads and play with the cable, it might work to your liking

 

I use the project U d1 pads in the rear - they've got really high initial friction so at low temps they grab and bite great. always locks good for me every time.

 

Whenever i get around to it, i'm going to do a full write up on a diy handbrake. I'm building everything from scratch. Just trying to figure out what clutch master cylinder i want to use......

About the rears, all i would have to do is run 2 t's comming off the rear ports in the master and run hard lines from the master t's to the firewall accordingly correct?

 

just get rear calipers from a car @ the junkyard & add to rear as a separate unit. For the rest of what you need is probably easier found at a location or perhaps a web site that sells parts for sand rails, that way you can get the neat trick hydraulic brake set up in your ride. only real fabrication you really need is mounting your rear calipers... good luck!

 

i had a hydro ebrake on my car, but i took it off. i just run a stock one now, with hawk hp+ pads. works great all the time. when i would use the hydro brake and foot brake at the same time, the rear brakes would lock up and stick even after i let off the hand brake. i had to pump the brakes and hand brake to get it to unstick. thats just using the stock rear calipers, if you run a second set it will work fine. FC's stock ebrake is fine, but FD's suck

 

the FD's e brake suck

 

Haha, yeah well actually it works great for what it does, keep it in park ...but with it being on the other side it does not give you much leverage for yanking e-brake style drifts. We came to find out the hard way for my friend's 3rd gens really DO need something other then stock and preferably a hydraulic brake system of some sort if you are going to do this seriously and would like some additional weapons in your arsenal if you do drift competetively. good luck everyone!

 

been on the stock ebrake for 4 years with no problems.. just using ss lines, stock pads and rotors... make sure the linkage is not stretched out... otherwise keep it stock.

 

Hmm.

When i rode brakes on my bmx bike i used linear strand cable sleeve and they never kinked up and worked like a dream over a standard plastic style sleeve. Dont think it's necessary for our app.

Another bmx related thing i loved using when i made my own custom cable setups were these things called knarps.

http://www.treefortbikes.com/460_333...as-a-pair.html

Wanted to get some of these b/c my hatch release is messing up and i dont like ripping my ebrake almost 6 clicks to keep my car from rolling out of the driveway on it's own. There are other ways to take up cable slack in things but knarps are a treat. Anyone with a vice, drill press and a tap can make one with relative ease.

Still going hydro (for fun, not necessity) but i'd thought i'd toss some ideas out there.

 

Here's a thread for you: http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=20858.0

Read all of it.

Hearing about using the foot brake and handbrake at the same time messing things up kinda scares me away from it.....

 

I know the issues about locking the brakes after using hyd and foot brake at the same time but im gonna have a hyd e-brake anyway.
My question is just a transelating matter :P What do you call a bypass one way bypass valve? Its not actually a one way valve, but it is purpose built for hyd e-brake setups.
It looks like that, but thats 200USD in norway. I think its cheaper in USA..

Someone know what i mean? and what its called in english..

 

Hmm

Somebody get on paint and describe how this thing works for a dumbass like me?

 

This is how they tell you to mount it in a car (found it on a norwegian rally shop)
hyd-ebrake.jpg?t=1237458333

 

how about a poor mans 2ndary hydro e brake using the clutch assembaly from a motercycle? keep the stock e brake and the secondary brake would drop back when u let it go? the oe ebrake so it stays parked. sorry all the talk of bmx and hydro e brakes got me thinking

 

Sure that will work! Then you got the reservior and everything. The cylinder on the clutch assembly might be to small though.
Does anyone know how it will work if you change the blue distrubution valve above with just a T-splices? Arent the rears and fronts separated anyway?

 

just find a hog of a donner bike like 1200. bigger the bike bigger the clutch. and brake would work also. it doesn't need to be the clutch. The brake off a large cruising bike. They also have a lot of after market brake and clutch parts for motorcycles that might work well

Just make sure its not an abs system. I don't know if motorcycles have abs, but with all the dumb asses that buy huge bikes that don't know how to ride they probably do.

 

Kinda. I'd like to see some more on that blue distrobution valve. Looks like it could be the ticket.

Rally drivers are constantly on and off the brakes and hitting the handbrake so i wonder if it solves the footbrake/hydro brake problem.

 

It does! Ive been seeing that part in other driftcars/rallycars in norway lately! It will solve the problem. I found the name for it and its called a priority valve (direct translated from norwegian) It makes sense though.. Im gonna buy it hopefully this week if i get some money. The one on the picture is from sellholm and costs 1000NOK, thats 160USD with todays currency! Its probably cheaper in the US if you can find something similar

 

Here is a nice pic for everyone who don't see exactly how it works and how connecting all this stuff.

"22" showing the hydro & "priority valve"


Note : 2 MC, one for front, one for rear. You just need to see the rear MC as the rear section before the Y (direclty from the ABS or secondary MC exit).


(sorry, easy reading english for me, but writing... lol)

 

That looks pretty simple. I'm guessing all you would need to do is run a hydraulic e-brake like this:



And have your inlet line tapped into your brake reservoir, and your outlet running into a shuttle valve that's tee'd into your rear brake lines.

I believe shuttle valve is the proper name for the blue valve listed above.

 

The cheapest way to go is a buggy turning brake. They can be had for like 30$ and work great, but some do not have a reservoir.