Update on my car + pics
Update on my car + pics
Hey everyone, since installing the engine, I've put 2800 kms on the car. It's running great so far. For those who didnt read other thread, its a half bridge port with stock s5 turbo (for now) and haltech e6x.
I'm still tuning the boost maps. But boost response is very quick (instantaneous) above 3000 rpm, and creeps to about 12-13 psi in fourth gear around 4500 rpm. Boost trails off to about 6-7 pounds at redline(7000 rpm)
Here are some pics of the engine bay/car:
I'm still tuning the boost maps. But boost response is very quick (instantaneous) above 3000 rpm, and creeps to about 12-13 psi in fourth gear around 4500 rpm. Boost trails off to about 6-7 pounds at redline(7000 rpm)
Here are some pics of the engine bay/car:
Last edited by nik; Jun 30, 2005 at 05:21 PM.
Car looks great! I'm glad that you're not having drivability/tuning issues!
That's the J-Spec logicon - it's digital.
And I'll take you up on the offer of a "regular" one!
Originally Posted by nik
Has anyone else seen one of these logicons before?
And I'll take you up on the offer of a "regular" one!
heh, i was able to ride shotgun for a bit in this car and help in doing some datalogging.
all i can say is that when the boost hits in full force it is absolutely wicked. it is a lot of power for the stock turbo, and damn does it spool fast once it gets going...
and it behaves quite well down low for the port it has.
thanks again for the ride Nik
- Aaron
all i can say is that when the boost hits in full force it is absolutely wicked. it is a lot of power for the stock turbo, and damn does it spool fast once it gets going...
and it behaves quite well down low for the port it has.
thanks again for the ride Nik

- Aaron
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Those GXL wheels came with the car when I bought it, I was always confused as to why I didnt get the TII wheels. This is a real 87 TII as per the VIN number.
I think that the GXL wheels from 86 are dull, while the 87 and 88 ones are shiny. Not 100% sure about it though.
Future plans are: To front mount the stock IC with some more of that aircraft ducting (you can see a bit on the compressor outlet). To install a loop line on the engine (front iron already tapped). To reinstall my TEIN coilovers, and to put in front/rear strut tower bars.
Surprisingly, the stock fuel pump and filter, with rails in series and stock banjo bolts/PD, is plenty of fuel to keep the car in mid 11 AFR even till redline.
I think that the GXL wheels from 86 are dull, while the 87 and 88 ones are shiny. Not 100% sure about it though.
Future plans are: To front mount the stock IC with some more of that aircraft ducting (you can see a bit on the compressor outlet). To install a loop line on the engine (front iron already tapped). To reinstall my TEIN coilovers, and to put in front/rear strut tower bars.
Surprisingly, the stock fuel pump and filter, with rails in series and stock banjo bolts/PD, is plenty of fuel to keep the car in mid 11 AFR even till redline.
I'm assuming the centerpiece you're talking about is the silverrotor FD alternator right
?
Mine is still working great after 2 + years. Mine is wired "wrong" according to all the writeups out there, (the sense terminal is wired to switched ignition instead of constant +12). I think that's why my car sees higher voltages sometimes (~14.5). Only problem is the pulley chews up the belts a bit.
?Mine is still working great after 2 + years. Mine is wired "wrong" according to all the writeups out there, (the sense terminal is wired to switched ignition instead of constant +12). I think that's why my car sees higher voltages sometimes (~14.5). Only problem is the pulley chews up the belts a bit.
Originally Posted by WankelingBeer
Thats one clean engine bay 

Eek, you have an older style one that were sent out a long while back. The few had minor Imperfections resulting In this. I'll send you a newer type Pulley that has both V-Grooves factory machined (as opposed to the one V-Groove machined my hand).
Sound fair? PM me with your address, details etc.
*Note* Seek out a constant voltage source for the S Terminal. What are you waiting for???
Sound fair? PM me with your address, details etc.
*Note* Seek out a constant voltage source for the S Terminal. What are you waiting for???
The imperfection is really minor, those belts I have on there are the same ones that I put on when I first put the alternator on years ago. Thanks for the offer though, I'll definately take you up on it.
I am going to do some further investigation to determine whether the wiring of the S terminal is really "wrong" as I have it. I remember looking at the internal circuit schematics of both an S4 and S5 alternator, and they are identical.
These guys do some quality work:
I am going to do some further investigation to determine whether the wiring of the S terminal is really "wrong" as I have it. I remember looking at the internal circuit schematics of both an S4 and S5 alternator, and they are identical.
These guys do some quality work:
Concerning the wireing of the alternator.. I have a series 5 alt, which should be wired the same as the FD.. for the longest time I had the s5 alt wired up like the s4 alt, with the sense line on switched rather than constant 12v.. if left alone for a week or so, the battery woudl eventually drain itself.. my voltage readings on my wolf3d also showed voltages of 15.5V at idle and when cruising.. however these voltages would drop down to low 13's, high 12's when I turned on my headlights, had my brake lights lit, turned on the heater etc.. it did all sorts of funky things with my fuel maps... After rewireing the sense to constant 12v, my battery never drains, i can leave it for weeks on end and still have good voltage.. my voltage readings on the wolf3d are now at 14.5 volts steady at idle and cruise.. if I turn on my headlights, etc, voltage will momentarly drop then come right back up to 14v ... the car runs much smoother and my fuel maps sorted themselves out...
honestly, rewire your alt
honestly, rewire your alt
Originally Posted by nik
The imperfection is really minor, those belts I have on there are the same ones that I put on when I first put the alternator on years ago. Thanks for the offer though, I'll definately take you up on it.
I am going to do some further investigation to determine whether the wiring of the S terminal is really "wrong" as I have it. I remember looking at the internal circuit schematics of both an S4 and S5 alternator, and they are identical.
These guys do some quality work:
I am going to do some further investigation to determine whether the wiring of the S terminal is really "wrong" as I have it. I remember looking at the internal circuit schematics of both an S4 and S5 alternator, and they are identical.
These guys do some quality work:
Ha ha typical pic of evil under his hood, i'd be looking into chiropracter soon man, dude your too damn tall to be bent over 6 hours of the day lol, awesome to see the cars so clean though.. Looks awesome nik can't wait to get a ride in the new improved mobile
Originally Posted by twinturbofc
Ha ha typical pic of evil under his hood, i'd be looking into chiropracter soon man, dude your too damn tall to be bent over 6 hours of the day lol, awesome to see the cars so clean though.. Looks awesome nik can't wait to get a ride in the new improved mobile
When I was working on my car for 10 hours a day to get it ready for the Ottawa Meet, my back was totally done after a while. Damm low cars!!!
Originally Posted by Chris Ng
Concerning the wireing of the alternator.. I have a series 5 alt, which should be wired the same as the FD.. for the longest time I had the s5 alt wired up like the s4 alt, with the sense line on switched rather than constant 12v.. if left alone for a week or so, the battery woudl eventually drain itself.. my voltage readings on my wolf3d also showed voltages of 15.5V at idle and when cruising.. however these voltages would drop down to low 13's, high 12's when I turned on my headlights, had my brake lights lit, turned on the heater etc.. it did all sorts of funky things with my fuel maps... After rewireing the sense to constant 12v, my battery never drains, i can leave it for weeks on end and still have good voltage.. my voltage readings on the wolf3d are now at 14.5 volts steady at idle and cruise.. if I turn on my headlights, etc, voltage will momentarly drop then come right back up to 14v ... the car runs much smoother and my fuel maps sorted themselves out...
honestly, rewire your alt
honestly, rewire your alt

On the plus side, my car no longer has any cold start issues. I guess it was just related to the breakin period.
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hopefully i'll get to cruise with you before the end of the summer.
