Tips for First time Rx 7 Buyer!!!!
#2
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ask when the timing chain was last replaced, take the head off and check the cam shafts, rockers, lifters...
just kidding. there is none of that stuff in a rotary engine.
i would take it to your nearest mazda dealer to do a compression test on it. these engine's are acctually pretty simple. there's less stuff to go wrong on a wankel engine then a piston engine. if your getting a turbo model, i'd suggest looking at the condition of the vacuum lines. these engines run very hot and can deteriorate the rubber/silicon hoses. also see if there's a turbo timer installed. that will give you a good indication that the owner took care of the turbos.
also if your looking to modify the car extensively, i would keep a big savings account if i were you. these cars tend to get expensive when it comes to modifying them.
i can tell you that it will be one of the funnest cars you ever drive...
cheers.
just kidding. there is none of that stuff in a rotary engine.
i would take it to your nearest mazda dealer to do a compression test on it. these engine's are acctually pretty simple. there's less stuff to go wrong on a wankel engine then a piston engine. if your getting a turbo model, i'd suggest looking at the condition of the vacuum lines. these engines run very hot and can deteriorate the rubber/silicon hoses. also see if there's a turbo timer installed. that will give you a good indication that the owner took care of the turbos.
also if your looking to modify the car extensively, i would keep a big savings account if i were you. these cars tend to get expensive when it comes to modifying them.
i can tell you that it will be one of the funnest cars you ever drive...
cheers.
#4
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I suggest you create a new account and change your name from "mike fc rx7" to "mike fb rx7" or "mike fd rx7" he he
of course I'm biased about fb's :p
welcome aboard.
try and get a car that hasn't been winter driven.
you also have to ask yourself what you want the car for / to do for you.
is this your only car (daily driver) or your weekend toy?
do you want to make it pretty and loud (rice it out) or do you want to improve the performance and race it on the track (or solo 2).
look at your goals for the car, this will give you an idea which model you want, and how much money you want to sink into it.
good luck with your purchase.
Leigh
of course I'm biased about fb's :p
welcome aboard.
try and get a car that hasn't been winter driven.
you also have to ask yourself what you want the car for / to do for you.
is this your only car (daily driver) or your weekend toy?
do you want to make it pretty and loud (rice it out) or do you want to improve the performance and race it on the track (or solo 2).
look at your goals for the car, this will give you an idea which model you want, and how much money you want to sink into it.
good luck with your purchase.
Leigh
#5
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well its gonna be a daily driver i jsut want a good strong running car? besides performance parts are regular parts pricey? I can do most mechanical work myself.. as long as it doesnt intale ripping out the whole motor. I am not lookign for a turbo as for insurance reasons. But would liek to take it to open track days to have some fun. Im looking at a 89 GXL right now. Gotta love leather
#6
love the braaaap
If your not looking for a turbo then the 89-91 is definately what you want. Either that or a 79-85, specifically a GSL or GSL-SE. The 79-85 is called an FB on the boards and is a 1st gen while the 86-91 is FC or 2nd gen. I'm sure you already know that though.
Aaron's site is actually very good. I used some of those tips when looking for an FB. Just make sure the engine starts up and runs fine with minimal cranking, and then shut it off after about 5 min of running and try starting again. If the engine floods then there could be a compression problem or leaky injectors. Also, check for any kind of surging or miss firing because those can be related to sensor problems or problems with the ignition coil. Also, just check all the hoses and belts for excessive wear. Best thing to do though is to take the car to a mechanic. They will be able to tell you what may be wrong with the car. I don't know about you, but I hate leather. Too hot and sticky in the summer and too cold and slick in the winter. I'd rather just have cloth.
Aaron's site is actually very good. I used some of those tips when looking for an FB. Just make sure the engine starts up and runs fine with minimal cranking, and then shut it off after about 5 min of running and try starting again. If the engine floods then there could be a compression problem or leaky injectors. Also, check for any kind of surging or miss firing because those can be related to sensor problems or problems with the ignition coil. Also, just check all the hoses and belts for excessive wear. Best thing to do though is to take the car to a mechanic. They will be able to tell you what may be wrong with the car. I don't know about you, but I hate leather. Too hot and sticky in the summer and too cold and slick in the winter. I'd rather just have cloth.
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#8
Don't pay for a nice, new paint job. Better to get a car with paint at least two years old, so you know nothing's been covered up. If the car's been painted, they're either covering something up or they got a cheap job and it's gonna rot out from the inside anyway. No way someone is going to paint a car to sell it and lose money on the paint and body.
#12
400WHP or bust
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RUST, look at the bottom of both front fenders, behind the wheel well on the floor pans, the sunroof has drains that come out there, the bottom of the spare tire well rusts out, as do the rear wheel wells.
#13
smells like rotary
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They're old cars so general condition is number one look at the body all around, rear wheel wells and sunroofs are where they tend to rust. If the exhaust is old it could need to be replaced, interior condition. All the mounts and bushings are probably worn out unless they've been replaced. Definatly do a compression test, see how it deals with hot starts. Since I bought mine I put in a new exhaust, motor mounts, tranny mounts, sway bar bushings, battery, paint job and now it's awsome by far the cheapest car I've had but also my favourite.
#14
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The best Way to buy An RX7..find an RX7 owner that has A NICE CAR..and BRING HIM Along to check the Car out!..if "your new friend" has owned his Vehicle for awhile,and it's still Running(meaning he hasn't Blown the **** out of it!!..),Then most likely he will be able to know if the car You are buying is a Lemon or a Diamond(good buy)..That would be the Easiset and Quickest Way.The other way would be to start READING..(I went through "pages" of threads here)..The RX7Club forum is as Good as it gets For Information.The guys on Forum,have been through the best and the worst with their Cars,and they will usually "vent" their Frustrations or Info Here.I wish you all the best and hope that you find a Good RX7,right off the Bat.You will be amazed at the capabilities of the car,if it is running right.If you get a 'Dud"..it will frustrate you,but as I said everyone has had their share of ups and downs with them..so whatever your choice..happy Driving,and Welcome to the club.
#19
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Hey man, I'm in the same boat as you. I'm looking to move from an mx6 to an rx7 but my knowedge is limited about the rotary. I'm looking at a 10ae as a summer cruiser. Good luck on your buy and I hope you're as excited as I am to pick up a rotary.
#21
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wow a 10AE that would be amazing...couldnt afford that for awhile ...anyways my only other concern would be doing the mechanical work... i just finished bringing a jetta gli back to life so doing engine work and such isnt a problem.. is replacing things in and on the motor difficult to the point where only someone whos done it b4 can do it or can anyone with the will be able to do the work? Parts as well ... are parts much more expensive than any other car would be? Basicall im looking for average mantinance costs
#23
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my only other concern would be doing the mechanical work... i just finished bringing a jetta gli back to life so doing engine work and such isnt a problem.. is replacing things in and on the motor difficult to the point where only someone whos done it b4 can do it or can anyone with the will be able to do the work? Parts as well ... are parts much more expensive than any other car would be? Basicall im looking for average mantinance costs
#24
Now with more 1st Gen!
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Replacing stuff on the RX-7 is pretty much the same as any other motor (it all just bolts on ), the engine itself, and the management, do have a few intricacies that make it a little counterintuitive sometimes, but you can always find answers here... (in the 2nd gen section).
Parts are a little pricier than other cars.. (should be pretty comparable to VW parts though, I think...) ...just gotta remember your are working on a premium sports car, not a family car econobox....
Oh, and a note about rust... be sure to take a look behind the plastic at the back of the front wheel wells... (there should be metal there, not rust )
Parts are a little pricier than other cars.. (should be pretty comparable to VW parts though, I think...) ...just gotta remember your are working on a premium sports car, not a family car econobox....
Oh, and a note about rust... be sure to take a look behind the plastic at the back of the front wheel wells... (there should be metal there, not rust )
#25
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ok now the last thing thats in my way of buying an rx7.... MY DAD..... hes set on the belief that these cars are very expensive to maintain and hard to keep running and basically all the bad stuff... what i need is a comparison between an rx 7 and piston engine cars... in as much detail as possible... yes i bet some parts are expensive but so are some on anyother car... the igintion wires for my 2.0L 16V jetta were $300 because their special.. so basically i need to know what it takes to keep an rx 7 out from under the wrench a lot. And costs that you have run into if you dont mine sharing. Like i said ...as much detail as possible would be awesome...thanks