Bwek

iTrader: (4)

hey guys is there anyone that happens to have a power brake bleeding machine?

I got my brakes bled but it seems like there is still air in it and i can't seem to get it driving me nuts

I've got a kit to bleed them and it isn't my first time lol

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

I powerbleed on all my cars works amazing and uses little fluid gets everything out in one shot. It is one of those things that you dont believe how good it works until you try it

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

ya i know i'd love to get it done to my car i dont like how it has abit of squish lol esp after putting new pads and calipers on i want the most i can get out of it

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Powerbleeding will give you the best pedal feel right away.

Also, you will do the entire system in about 10 minutes.

londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

the canadian tire i used to work at had one, maybe ask an older mechanic to bleed your brakes at CT.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

You may want to take into account that if the master cyl. is aged, the pedal will not feel 100% correct.

Also, old flex lines can cause a bit of squishy-ness. Pads and calipers do not a complete brake system make (since we're jumblin' scentences)

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

I have new front and rear calipers and a new master cylinder as well actually the passenger rear wasn't replaced yet

DynoDragon

iTrader: (1)

You should be able to achieve good results with a manual kit, if all the components are good. Sometimes you just have to bleed a little more fluid. Make sure the hose from the caliper is going up and is full of fluid before you close the valve, otherwise air can be sucked back in.

If the pedal is still not firm, as Joe said, it's time to check through the system components. Braided steel lines help; are you getting flex at the firewall, etc.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

FC's have a crappy feeling brake pedal. I've seriously never sat in one that felt great. I think it has to do with the ABS, but I've sat in non-ABS cars that are crappy too.

I've got a mazda 626 brake cylinder that's a direct upgrade (larger bore) and is brand new, if you're interested and want to bother.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

I hate you Dan why do you have all these awesome parts, im just going to give you my paychecks from here on out

Redshft

iTrader: (1)

The pedal feel in my FC was greatly improved by putting a brace from the strut tower to the front of the master cylinder. The flex in the firewall is really surprising. (Watch the master/firewall while somebody else pushes the pedal. You will be shocked.)

That being said, I've been toying with the idea of picking some kind of bleeding tool.. between all of the cars, and the frequent changes on the race car, the old-fashioned method has lost it's novelty. Time for more power tools.

Buggy

iTrader: (8)

We have a nice setup here at work, came from Snap-on. It's a pressurized container that you fill with brake fluid and then pressurize with compressed air. It gets hooked up to the master cylinder and pressurizes the whole system. Just walk around to all 4 corners and crack the bleeder screws. Takes about 5 minutes to bleed a completely dry system. Also great for flushing a system out. Not sure what it costs though.....

im_the_mainevent

iTrader: (5)

Maybe a dumb question but when you put the new master in did ya bench bleed the thing? 90% of problems after a master replacement are from improper bench bleeding.....

Just a thought here....

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

Ya i bench bled it

its def not lines, air the pedal moves to a certain point then its really firm like it should be.. if you get what i mean theres a slight amount of play the brakes do engage but its not firm right at the beginning of travel like it should be

Buggy

iTrader: (8)

Just check to make sure all the pads can move freely, especially the rears. Make sure all the slides are serviced and lubricated as well. A stuck pad or caliper slide will give you the same kind of pedal feel. Like a rear drum brake that isn't adjusted right.