People that have made the camber adjustment link
#1
400WHP or bust
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People that have made the camber adjustment link
Well, I've been trying to make this link for a while now, I made one, and it's too short.
How long does it have to be before installalation, and when it's on the car? I have had a problem installing this, it's too short, but I think anything but the stock one is too short, is there a trick to installing it, or must it be the stock size, and then you adjust it to make it shorter when both ends are bolted down?
How long does it have to be before installalation, and when it's on the car? I have had a problem installing this, it's too short, but I think anything but the stock one is too short, is there a trick to installing it, or must it be the stock size, and then you adjust it to make it shorter when both ends are bolted down?
#2
Former Rx7 *****
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I didn't take any measurements or notes when I made my unfortunately.
What I did was buy two end links from Canadian Bearing (1 left hand and 1 right hand thread). I used the stock link as a reference. Cut a 1" OD aluminum rod and drilled the centre with a lathe. I taped the hole. THe length I used was what would allow the end link's thread be 1/2 engaged into the aluminum to reach the stock length. I coated the end links heavily with antiseize as tapped aluminum and cad plated steel is just asking for trouble. I made two sleeves bored for 12 mm bolt to adapt the end link's ID (since a 12 mm ID endlink is pretty small).
I then milled a 4 flats to make a square where I can use a 19 mm wrench to allow for adustment.
When installing the link. I just adusted the length until it fit with the subframe. I had tapped the holes left hand and right hand threads so that just twisting the rod will change it's length. The key is to make sure both end l inks are engaged equal lengths upon intial installation with the car. Else one end link will be bearing too much force.
What I did was buy two end links from Canadian Bearing (1 left hand and 1 right hand thread). I used the stock link as a reference. Cut a 1" OD aluminum rod and drilled the centre with a lathe. I taped the hole. THe length I used was what would allow the end link's thread be 1/2 engaged into the aluminum to reach the stock length. I coated the end links heavily with antiseize as tapped aluminum and cad plated steel is just asking for trouble. I made two sleeves bored for 12 mm bolt to adapt the end link's ID (since a 12 mm ID endlink is pretty small).
I then milled a 4 flats to make a square where I can use a 19 mm wrench to allow for adustment.
When installing the link. I just adusted the length until it fit with the subframe. I had tapped the holes left hand and right hand threads so that just twisting the rod will change it's length. The key is to make sure both end l inks are engaged equal lengths upon intial installation with the car. Else one end link will be bearing too much force.
#3
400WHP or bust
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I was hoping you would post, but I don't have access to a machine shop any more, but I think a turnbuckle and a few Hyme joints would work. I know the stock one is 11" long, so if i find a tunbuckle and hyme joints that would allow me to make adjustments smaller then whats needed.
#5
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IT seems too short to me... Your adjustment range required is only around + 1.5 to -1.5 inches of stock peice. Unless you are runnnig a 5" drop in suspension or want to run -4 degrees of camber.
#6
Go Hard....or Go Home
#7
Rotary Freak
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Talk to Renegade07 he helped make mine and will probably have some measurements. I have left hand and right hand taps if you want to copy his design of being adjustable at both ends. But frankly mine ended up costing the same as the Mazdatrix one after taking into account buying expensive left hand taps etc.
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