Ontario caravan to Deal's gap
03-29-08, 12:24 AM
#226
I think I'm going to head back sunday and monday. I want to go to FLA but I don't have the cash currently. This engine build killed me. If somehow I sell a car in the next week and a half, I'm going to FLA for sure. But if that doesn't happen, it stretches me too tight.
I got my water/meth injection system installed today, and the exhaust back on the car. No leaks, nice and quiet. Just how I like it.
Still waiting on a $200 tie-rod end so I can fix the rear suspension.
Probably going to install the EBC and SAFC tomorrow Yay electronics! LOL
Maybe get tires put on too.
I got my water/meth injection system installed today, and the exhaust back on the car. No leaks, nice and quiet. Just how I like it.
Still waiting on a $200 tie-rod end so I can fix the rear suspension. Probably going to install the EBC and SAFC tomorrow Yay electronics! LOL
Maybe get tires put on too.
03-29-08, 08:32 AM
#227
I think I'm going to head back sunday and monday. I want to go to FLA but I don't have the cash currently. This engine build killed me. If somehow I sell a car in the next week and a half, I'm going to FLA for sure. But if that doesn't happen, it stretches me too tight.
I got my water/meth injection system installed today, and the exhaust back on the car. No leaks, nice and quiet. Just how I like it. Still waiting on a $200 tie-rod end so I can fix the rear suspension.
Probably going to install the EBC and SAFC tomorrow Yay electronics! LOL
Maybe get tires put on too.
I got my water/meth injection system installed today, and the exhaust back on the car. No leaks, nice and quiet. Just how I like it.
Still waiting on a $200 tie-rod end so I can fix the rear suspension. Probably going to install the EBC and SAFC tomorrow Yay electronics! LOL
Maybe get tires put on too.
wow. that much wiring and your going to drive down with it
You have faith. LOLI'm going to bring a few tools just in case I break down. don't expect to break down thought.
03-29-08, 08:38 AM
#228
Ian, I'll be bringing an entire socket set (8mm-21mm deep and shallow large and small spark plug sockets) and a few essential wrenches. If you want, rather then each have some tools, just bring some pliers and ummm, I dunno what else.
I don't expect to break down either but I'd hate like hell to have to do something simple on the side of the road and be trying to undo stuff with chanell locks from some charitable trucker or something lol
BTW, had to remove the jacob's coils from the car. One of the amps took a **** while it was idling and it started running on one rotor. I tried bridging one amp onto both ocils and it *works* but the tach then becomes twice what it should be for some reason. I may just buy another amp down the road, but the stock ignition is far to reliable to try anything else for the trip. So I'm running the stock stuff now..............and for some reason my cold start kickback went away too after removing those coils.
I don't expect to break down either but I'd hate like hell to have to do something simple on the side of the road and be trying to undo stuff with chanell locks from some charitable trucker or something lol
BTW, had to remove the jacob's coils from the car. One of the amps took a **** while it was idling and it started running on one rotor. I tried bridging one amp onto both ocils and it *works* but the tach then becomes twice what it should be for some reason. I may just buy another amp down the road, but the stock ignition is far to reliable to try anything else for the trip. So I'm running the stock stuff now..............and for some reason my cold start kickback went away too after removing those coils.
03-29-08, 08:52 AM
#229
Ian, I'll be bringing an entire socket set (8mm-21mm deep and shallow large and small spark plug sockets) and a few essential wrenches. If you want, rather then each have some tools, just bring some pliers and ummm, I dunno what else.
I don't expect to break down either but I'd hate like hell to have to do something simple on the side of the road and be trying to undo stuff with chanell locks from some charitable trucker or something lol
BTW, had to remove the jacob's coils from the car. One of the amps took a **** while it was idling and it started running on one rotor. I tried bridging one amp onto both ocils and it *works* but the tach then becomes twice what it should be for some reason. I may just buy another amp down the road, but the stock ignition is far to reliable to try anything else for the trip. So I'm running the stock stuff now..............and for some reason my cold start kickback went away too after removing those coils.
I don't expect to break down either but I'd hate like hell to have to do something simple on the side of the road and be trying to undo stuff with chanell locks from some charitable trucker or something lol
BTW, had to remove the jacob's coils from the car. One of the amps took a **** while it was idling and it started running on one rotor. I tried bridging one amp onto both ocils and it *works* but the tach then becomes twice what it should be for some reason. I may just buy another amp down the road, but the stock ignition is far to reliable to try anything else for the trip. So I'm running the stock stuff now..............and for some reason my cold start kickback went away too after removing those coils.
All I will bring for a jack is the stock one.
I'm limited with the stuff I can bring due to the roll bar/cage.
That sucks that the amp took a ****. Better finding this out now then having this happen down the road.
03-29-08, 01:22 PM
#231
NEVER TOUCH ROTORS IF YOU THINK THE BRAKES HAVE SEIZED! "Insert moron here"
Like a complete moron I took the fc for a rip to make sure after putting it all together it is all good. I went around the block and found that letting go of the gas it slowed down more then usually. Parked it in the garage and touched each rotor to see if any were warm. WHAM. BURN. Passenger rear has seized. OUCH. I didn't think such a short drive would do that.
So now I need to buy a new rear caliber. Don't want to kill my race pads and new rotors.
So guys make sure everything is good. I doubt anyone will be bringing spare calipers/rotors/brakes/much of anything.
Mazda wants $462 plus taxes undiscounted for one caliper! (Without core its $562!! You would think these are overside performance calipers. WTF
Some places in the states sell them for $55. But then you need shipping and core etc......
Found Hot spot auto has them for $105+tax with core. Each place I call gets cheaper.
Like a complete moron I took the fc for a rip to make sure after putting it all together it is all good. I went around the block and found that letting go of the gas it slowed down more then usually. Parked it in the garage and touched each rotor to see if any were warm. WHAM. BURN. Passenger rear has seized. OUCH. I didn't think such a short drive would do that.
So now I need to buy a new rear caliber. Don't want to kill my race pads and new rotors.
So guys make sure everything is good. I doubt anyone will be bringing spare calipers/rotors/brakes/much of anything.
Mazda wants $462 plus taxes undiscounted for one caliper! (Without core its $562!! You would think these are overside performance calipers. WTF
Some places in the states sell them for $55. But then you need shipping and core etc......
Found Hot spot auto has them for $105+tax with core. Each place I call gets cheaper.
Last edited by IAN; 03-29-08 at 01:46 PM.
03-29-08, 11:05 PM
#237
That would be better explained on the site itself http://bnrturbos.com/3rdGen.htm . If someone asked me I wouldn't be able to give a full answer lol. Their more efficient and can take more boost reliably is what I would say. I plan to run 16 pounds on them.
thewird
thewird
03-30-08, 02:43 AM
#240
yeah get it together man, not much time left!
I got my water/meth injection tested today. Did some suspension work but not much and was disappointed with the results. Lets just say that the aftermarket control arms I bought are garbage, and won't be staying on my car for very long.
I got my water/meth injection tested today. Did some suspension work but not much and was disappointed with the results. Lets just say that the aftermarket control arms I bought are garbage, and won't be staying on my car for very long.
03-30-08, 08:19 AM
#241
That would be better explained on the site itself http://bnrturbos.com/3rdGen.htm . If someone asked me I wouldn't be able to give a full answer lol. Their more efficient and can take more boost reliably is what I would say. I plan to run 16 pounds on them.
thewird
thewird
03-30-08, 01:27 PM
#242
. I wonder if Brian is up for a "how much will it do". I'll have to see if he thinks its a safe idea. I've heard people run 19 pounds on the BNR's. BNR said their peak efficiency is at 18 pounds and can stay like that constantly reliably.thewird
03-30-08, 01:39 PM
#243
It's even more new then usual because he said my housing was cracked so he replaced it with 99spec housing so it should be great . I wonder if Brian is up for a "how much will it do". I'll have to see if he thinks its a safe idea. I've heard people run 19 pounds on the BNR's. BNR said their peak efficiency is at 18 pounds and can stay like that constantly reliably.
thewird
. I wonder if Brian is up for a "how much will it do". I'll have to see if he thinks its a safe idea. I've heard people run 19 pounds on the BNR's. BNR said their peak efficiency is at 18 pounds and can stay like that constantly reliably.thewird
03-31-08, 11:16 PM
#245
My 7 is my girlfriend.
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Carter fuel pump is mounted. That was a pain in the ***. Finished wiring the relay for it as well. Header is wrapped with heat wrap. Halfway through remounting the FMOC. Hopefully I won't have to work too soon tomorrow and I can get that finished up. Just left waiting for the Sterling.
04-01-08, 07:58 AM
#246
I have a few hundred kms' on the FC. Running mint. Had to loctite the waterpump pulley bolts, add some heat wrap here and there, re-install the oil feed adapter for the turbo. Nothign major, just little nick nacks.
But then I hit a minor road block. What i thought was extreme wheel bearing noise is is either a driveshaft or trans. Its up on the hoist now so I can run it and see which is making the racket. No big deal really on either of them, just a PITA.
I could run like that, but its got a nasty vibration above 110km/hr, which is the speed we'll be at 90% of the drive down.
But then I hit a minor road block. What i thought was extreme wheel bearing noise is is either a driveshaft or trans. Its up on the hoist now so I can run it and see which is making the racket. No big deal really on either of them, just a PITA.
I could run like that, but its got a nasty vibration above 110km/hr, which is the speed we'll be at 90% of the drive down.
04-01-08, 04:34 PM
#249
My 7 is my girlfriend.
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Any chance anyone here has a spare 12A exhaust gasket or know the actual Mazda part number? I bought one from Mazda but they fucked up and gave me a 13B gasket instead. It's a rather disappointing thing to find out when your just about to bolt your header back up.