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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by doridori-rx7
buggy; I guess you should stay away from posts that require a modicum of thought, best go watch ' The Hills'..
as you should also keep away from threads when your recommendations are ill advised and completely false.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:45 AM
  #27  
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R&D on his butt plugs must not be as comfortable as he once thought...

He said he would love to meet me in person at a meet once, but never showed up, so that just goes to show you how he is; too busy with his Farrah Fawcett poster pinned to his ceiling.

He's always right, like when he said the serial cable was the right one, but it wasn't and he couldn't connect his Haltech, when a tuner, and a Electrical Engineer said he was using the wrong one he still insisted it was correct!!! No point in arguing with the tard, just leave it be boys.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=serial
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 02:25 PM
  #28  
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Big surprise.. I dare to contradict the good ol' boys and predictably; it only takes a few posts before it turns into nothing but personal attacks.. I really did try to keep on target.. meh.. not like I expected much else.


But just to keep some semblance of context; IBM's proprietary serial port will not accept the haltech input layout, regardless of the adaptors used. As many people tried many different adaptors with no luck.. Bought a Fujitsu Lifebook with serial port and it worked fine. Not sure where you expected to go with that one?? Seriously though, I dislike haltech intensely, it would take them the better part of a day to modify the board and code to work with a $15 internal USB adaptor. Old technology and even older design philosophy why would i pay top dollar for that nonsense?.. Pretty much all we do now here is the odd PFC and hydra, other then that it's COBB AP and megasquirt.


as you should also keep away from threads when your recommendations are ill advised and completely false.
Kind of like you should when you recommend pure Nickel to weld cast with... Still waiting for some form of proof other then, " I did it and it worked", I've yet to find any site that recommends pure nickel rod..

But yes, I'll keep my 'ill advised' materials science and chemistry off of the Canadian section.. it has no place here. I am a bad person and your such a bastion of all that is right.. chastise me by taking away my Farrah Fawcett poster..
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 04:56 PM
  #29  
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When did I say to use a pure nickel rod??? I said high nickel content from the begining...
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 12:39 AM
  #30  
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^^ I was thinking the same thing?

no one is saying you shouldn't give your "advice" its how you word what you say, It comes off as you being "all knowing and god like"
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 04:21 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by doridori-rx7
Don't listen to this, you'll end up with cracks galore after the first heat cycle. 304L stainless has the closest thermal expansion rate to cast iron. eg: it will move WITH the casting.. Nickel has a thermal expansion rate that more then 10x less then cast iron. eg: it WILL NOT move with the casting..

when you make such a bold statement it's quite easy to prove you wrong. especially when I (a non-certified welded) have accomplished what you say is impossible.

http://www.lincolnelectric.ca/knowle...ronpreheat.asp
proof.

i however used linde EZ-cast 60.

I'll get pictures when i get a chance. it is currently -12*C (10*f) outside.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:30 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by doridori-rx7



Kind of like you should when you recommend pure Nickel to weld cast with... Still waiting for some form of proof other then, " I did it and it worked", I've yet to find any site that recommends pure nickel rod..
where did i ever say pure nickle rod?
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