Just picked up my FC TurboII, in love! Some quick questions
02-25-09, 11:10 AM
#1
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Just picked up my FC TurboII, in love! Some quick questions
At 11oclock this morning I picked up my Black '90 FC Turbo II. The previous owner has kept it in excellent condition 
and if the owner happens to read this (much respects to you for keeping this baby this way!). I am very proud to be part of the rotary family... these engines are so smooth!!
My 40 mins drive home was a blast to say the least; this being my first turbo'ed car I could not help but smile the entire time as I boost'ed merrily (but within speed limits ofcourse
) back home.
Pictures worth a thousand words, so I snapped two pictures of the car on the phone (i apologize for the quality) while I was cooling to the car down.
Which, leads to me to my question - I know with turbo cars you need to let them idle for a bit after a journey to cool them off, I was just curious approximately how long should I wait? I understand that it would depend on how hard the car was driven etc, but on average what would be an ideal amount of just regular driving? Similarly, I noticed while driving the temp gauge reads just a bit over half, is this normal? It did not get any higher so I was not too worried, but my past vehicles (Mitsu Lancer, RSX, Subaru Impreza) temp gauge never went above 'half'. Im sure it's not a problem but just wanted to make sure.
Any other tips on treating how to treat the engine kindly from fellow experienced rotary owners would be much appreciated!
edit:// you might be thinking... "why the blue stripes?!?!" put on by previous owner (some of the stripes dont look half bad i guess) but rest assured they are coming off tonight
and if the owner happens to read this (much respects to you for keeping this baby this way!). I am very proud to be part of the rotary family... these engines are so smooth!!My 40 mins drive home was a blast to say the least; this being my first turbo'ed car I could not help but smile the entire time as I boost'ed merrily (but within speed limits ofcourse
) back home.Pictures worth a thousand words, so I snapped two pictures of the car on the phone (i apologize for the quality) while I was cooling to the car down.
Which, leads to me to my question - I know with turbo cars you need to let them idle for a bit after a journey to cool them off, I was just curious approximately how long should I wait? I understand that it would depend on how hard the car was driven etc, but on average what would be an ideal amount of just regular driving? Similarly, I noticed while driving the temp gauge reads just a bit over half, is this normal? It did not get any higher so I was not too worried, but my past vehicles (Mitsu Lancer, RSX, Subaru Impreza) temp gauge never went above 'half'. Im sure it's not a problem but just wanted to make sure.
Any other tips on treating how to treat the engine kindly from fellow experienced rotary owners would be much appreciated!
edit:// you might be thinking... "why the blue stripes?!?!" put on by previous owner (some of the stripes dont look half bad i guess) but rest assured they are coming off tonight
02-25-09, 11:26 AM
#2
Congrats, it is been a long time since I owned an FC but I'll try to answer some of your questions.
RE: Turbo cool down
There are many schools of thought on the need for turbo timers. Some including myself feel you don't need a turbo timer on a water cooled turbo. I would just not boost for the last minute of driving before reaching my destination.
I'll let those that think an idling period is helpful give their reasons.
RE: Water temps
If you haven't already read about rotaries you should spend some time consuming all the info available on this site. You will eventually learn that water temps are a critical issue with respect to rotaries. Piston engines can survive an over heating incident but unfortuntately rotaries can sometimes require rebuild after one such event. You cannot rely on the stock water temp gauge. Your first order of business should be to install aftermarket water temp and boost gauges. The factory gauges tell you far too late when there is a problem.
Anyhow no need to get alarmed but for happy long term motoring get those gauges asap.
Once again congrats.
RE: Turbo cool down
There are many schools of thought on the need for turbo timers. Some including myself feel you don't need a turbo timer on a water cooled turbo. I would just not boost for the last minute of driving before reaching my destination.
I'll let those that think an idling period is helpful give their reasons.
RE: Water temps
If you haven't already read about rotaries you should spend some time consuming all the info available on this site. You will eventually learn that water temps are a critical issue with respect to rotaries. Piston engines can survive an over heating incident but unfortuntately rotaries can sometimes require rebuild after one such event. You cannot rely on the stock water temp gauge. Your first order of business should be to install aftermarket water temp and boost gauges. The factory gauges tell you far too late when there is a problem.
Anyhow no need to get alarmed but for happy long term motoring get those gauges asap.
Once again congrats.
Last edited by ScrappyDoo; 02-25-09 at 11:28 AM.
02-25-09, 12:05 PM
#3
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Congrats, it is been a long time since I owned an FC but I'll try to answer some of your questions.
RE: Turbo cool down
There are many schools of thought on the need for turbo timers. Some including myself feel you don't need a turbo timer on a water cooled turbo. I would just not boost for the last minute of driving before reaching my destination.
I'll let those that think an idling period is helpful give their reasons.
RE: Water temps
If you haven't already read about rotaries you should spend some time consuming all the info available on this site. You will eventually learn that water temps are a critical issue with respect to rotaries. Piston engines can survive an over heating incident but unfortuntately rotaries can sometimes require rebuild after one such event. You cannot rely on the stock water temp gauge. Your first order of business should be to install aftermarket water temp and boost gauges. The factory gauges tell you far too late when there is a problem.
Anyhow no need to get alarmed but for happy long term motoring get those gauges asap.
Once again congrats.
RE: Turbo cool down
There are many schools of thought on the need for turbo timers. Some including myself feel you don't need a turbo timer on a water cooled turbo. I would just not boost for the last minute of driving before reaching my destination.
I'll let those that think an idling period is helpful give their reasons.
RE: Water temps
If you haven't already read about rotaries you should spend some time consuming all the info available on this site. You will eventually learn that water temps are a critical issue with respect to rotaries. Piston engines can survive an over heating incident but unfortuntately rotaries can sometimes require rebuild after one such event. You cannot rely on the stock water temp gauge. Your first order of business should be to install aftermarket water temp and boost gauges. The factory gauges tell you far too late when there is a problem.
Anyhow no need to get alarmed but for happy long term motoring get those gauges asap.
Once again congrats.
I have heard people say they let their car idle for 5mins before turning off, but that sounded a bit too exaggerated to me. today I idle'd it for 2 mins before I shut off (being the worry-freak that I am, and I just got the car today), but what you suggested about not boosting for the last bit of the drive makes sense to me too. I guess there is no universal measure or method of cooling down.. must be one of those things which vary from drivers to drivers!
Also thank you for informing me about the gauges. I always try to care for my car's health so I will definitely look into investing some gauges. I'm not going to lie -I always thought the gauges were for show only!
02-25-09, 12:32 PM
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On the S5's I think Half, or just above half is normal... On S4's it's a Quater, and usually anything over a Quater is not good, but Like Scappy said install an aftermarket boost gauge, coolant temp gauge, and I would also install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.
VDO makes a very high quality, and accurate gauge at an affordable price, they also match the stock gauges quite well with the red bulb sock installed on the "Vision" series.
VDO makes a very high quality, and accurate gauge at an affordable price, they also match the stock gauges quite well with the red bulb sock installed on the "Vision" series.
02-25-09, 01:06 PM
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The FD is still coming, sometime in March! I have to head over to Montreal to see it so its been taking a while. I sold my 2000 Impreza and wanted a fun summer toy on the side, one which I am considering taking to the track and was basically considering between a SR20DET Nissan 240SX or this FC Turbo II. I don't have to say which option I went with
I just did a quick lookup on the VDO vision series gauges, they are very well priced like you said. I did not want to spend a huge amount on getting some "jdm bling" gauges, i believe my friend paid over 400 for his Defi gauges on his STI. I'll admit they do look nice but personally all I'm after is a reliable set of gauges - I dont need fancy LED screens etc! Do you have any shop recommendations on getting gauges installed perhaps in the Toronto Area?
On the S5's I think Half, or just above half is normal... On S4's it's a Quater, and usually anything over a Quater is not good, but Like Scappy said install an aftermarket boost gauge, coolant temp gauge, and I would also install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.
VDO makes a very high quality, and accurate gauge at an affordable price, they also match the stock gauges quite well with the red bulb sock installed on the "Vision" series.
VDO makes a very high quality, and accurate gauge at an affordable price, they also match the stock gauges quite well with the red bulb sock installed on the "Vision" series.
02-25-09, 01:08 PM
#7
The stock water temp gauge in an S5 is especially unuseful because its not linear. Half is normal, much above it equals a toasted engine. Doesn't alert you to a slowly rising temp.
As stated, grab an aftermarket one.
You could check (granted you shouldn't have ANY issues at all with the ambient temps we have right now) to see that your rad core is clear of debris or buildup, as well as the AC condensor. Sometimes the condensor, or oil cooler, may have a small leak which sprays a mist of oil on the rad's core. This will easily and quickly allow dirt to build up, and diminish the cooling ability of the rad.
Some other key items in keeping temps in check on a stock car:
- Undertray/belly pan
- good working stock thermostat
- two drivebelts on the waterpump, properly tensioned.
- functional clutch fan, or capable electric fan WITH A SHROUD
My opinion on run time for cooling down is that its only necessary if you're running the **** out of the car. Driving around, a little boosting etc isn't going to hurt the factory turbo........if you spend 15 minutes lapping and holding it wide open, you'll want to let it settle down before you shut it off.
As said as well, its needed much less on a water cooled turbo due to the syphoning effect. Even after the car's off the water is circulating through the turbo cooling it.
As stated, grab an aftermarket one.
You could check (granted you shouldn't have ANY issues at all with the ambient temps we have right now) to see that your rad core is clear of debris or buildup, as well as the AC condensor. Sometimes the condensor, or oil cooler, may have a small leak which sprays a mist of oil on the rad's core. This will easily and quickly allow dirt to build up, and diminish the cooling ability of the rad.
Some other key items in keeping temps in check on a stock car:
- Undertray/belly pan
- good working stock thermostat
- two drivebelts on the waterpump, properly tensioned.
- functional clutch fan, or capable electric fan WITH A SHROUD
My opinion on run time for cooling down is that its only necessary if you're running the **** out of the car. Driving around, a little boosting etc isn't going to hurt the factory turbo........if you spend 15 minutes lapping and holding it wide open, you'll want to let it settle down before you shut it off.
As said as well, its needed much less on a water cooled turbo due to the syphoning effect. Even after the car's off the water is circulating through the turbo cooling it.
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02-25-09, 04:46 PM
#9
Big Daddy Crescendo
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Rotaries run very hot compared to piston engines
If i were you i would do a coolant flush for sure to make sure there are no blockages and the coolant is right and clean.
I would also get a more accurate water temp gauge. You shouldn't be exceeding 90 degrees, but that's just me. An electric fan like said, is almost a must!
As for turbo timing, if you are fully boosting quite a bit and driving hard, such as autoX, and track days, after each run i would probably give it about a minute or so to let oil circulate. Normal city driving, 20 seconds is just fine. BUt just invest in a turbo timer, they are cheap.
Any mods for it?
If i were you i would do a coolant flush for sure to make sure there are no blockages and the coolant is right and clean.
I would also get a more accurate water temp gauge. You shouldn't be exceeding 90 degrees, but that's just me. An electric fan like said, is almost a must!
As for turbo timing, if you are fully boosting quite a bit and driving hard, such as autoX, and track days, after each run i would probably give it about a minute or so to let oil circulate. Normal city driving, 20 seconds is just fine. BUt just invest in a turbo timer, they are cheap.
Any mods for it?
02-25-09, 06:48 PM
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Nice car. who was the previous owner? There are not many S5TIIs around. I'm amazed to see the front lip is still on the car. 9/10 S5TIIs have this lip missing as it gets ripped off going up and down driveways, and speed bumps.
1.) Don't be driving it like you stole it 3 blocks away from your destination and you are fine. If you did then let it cool a bit... say 2 mins.
2.) Stock Temp gauge is BS. Middle = normal. Cold = you just started the car. High = you are F'd
Also Rotaries love oil changes, and new spark plugs. That is what keeps them happy.
1.) Don't be driving it like you stole it 3 blocks away from your destination and you are fine. If you did then let it cool a bit... say 2 mins.
2.) Stock Temp gauge is BS. Middle = normal. Cold = you just started the car. High = you are F'd
Also Rotaries love oil changes, and new spark plugs. That is what keeps them happy.
03-01-09, 10:59 AM
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I wont give the previous owner's name out (for privacy reasons! hah) but the car came from Whitby. The car originated from Nova Scotia but was brought to Toronto by the first owner.
First on my agenda is to get some gauges put in, does anyone have any recommendations to shops which do a good and most importantly TIDY job of installing gauges? I'm not looking for any fancy gauges, but I want a clean installation (no wires everywhere etc!) best if around Toronto Area?
First on my agenda is to get some gauges put in, does anyone have any recommendations to shops which do a good and most importantly TIDY job of installing gauges? I'm not looking for any fancy gauges, but I want a clean installation (no wires everywhere etc!) best if around Toronto Area?
03-01-09, 11:39 AM
#16
I wont give the previous owner's name out (for privacy reasons! hah) but the car came from Whitby. The car originated from Nova Scotia but was brought to Toronto by the first owner.
First on my agenda is to get some gauges put in, does anyone have any recommendations to shops which do a good and most importantly TIDY job of installing gauges? I'm not looking for any fancy gauges, but I want a clean installation (no wires everywhere etc!) best if around Toronto Area?
First on my agenda is to get some gauges put in, does anyone have any recommendations to shops which do a good and most importantly TIDY job of installing gauges? I'm not looking for any fancy gauges, but I want a clean installation (no wires everywhere etc!) best if around Toronto Area?
03-03-09, 12:02 AM
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yep, but which eric are you talking about?? i personally know about 5 erics! I do believe one of the eric's i know mentioned having a friend driving a white NA swapped Turbo white FC... could that be you? and yes, i bought the car off a caucasian male in whitby
03-06-09, 10:49 AM
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Much congrats man! Looking at your pics makes me miss my car. 
My best advice to you: Listen to the guys here, read read read, and watch out for jackasses who can't drive!
My best advice to you: Listen to the guys here, read read read, and watch out for jackasses who can't drive!
03-06-09, 12:05 PM
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a quick question: can i take the FC to change engine oil at most garages? what i mean is, is it the same (in terms of difficulty) as a normal piston engine?
03-08-09, 01:47 AM
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Congrats on the buy. Super clean, but we need more and better pictures, ASAP
I believe the biggest reason for cooling a turbo car down before shutdown is to prevent oil coking. This happens when the oil rapidly changes temperature and forms a layer of carbon, which can damage turbo internals and clog lines. Since it's water cooled you won't have that problem, but it's always a good idea to let everything cool down if you have been running it hard directly prior to shutdown, just to help prevent any warping issues from drastic temperature drop.
I believe the biggest reason for cooling a turbo car down before shutdown is to prevent oil coking. This happens when the oil rapidly changes temperature and forms a layer of carbon, which can damage turbo internals and clog lines. Since it's water cooled you won't have that problem, but it's always a good idea to let everything cool down if you have been running it hard directly prior to shutdown, just to help prevent any warping issues from drastic temperature drop.
03-16-09, 10:54 PM
#23
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Congrats on the FC! You're gonna love it!
