Second pic of a stock gasket almost in complete form lol

 

Sorry, I refer to the two conjoining pipes on the top of the turbo's as the "y-pipe"
Check the valves and vacc lines there for the turbo issues. I would first figure out the oil issue before anything in respect to what JDK said above.

Check those things he listed out. If you still have oil burning, then it probably is the oil control rings or just a crankcase venting issue

 

Okay guys I have finished my swap of the turbos and have fired up and test drove the car under low primary boost to make sure all gaskets are seated well and on startup so far no oil burning I also will have to wait till tomorrow to put the plates back on it so I can take it for a drive and test my secondary turbo to make sure it's coming online properly. As for boost issues that will also be another factor that will come into play as I test the secondary. All I take and intercooler pipes were takin off during swap, all hoses were changed on the turbo and all couplers and hoses were inspected on the intercooler pipes aswell and are still in great condition. After I diagnose tomorrow I will update you guys on any issues I find. Thanks for the help guys

 

Okay the car was fully test driven today and the primary turbo is working great and the oil smoking has ceased and seems good BUT now to the 2nd problem I refered to at the top my secondary turbo still will not come online soon as it hits the peak where the secondary should come online it doesn't and I loose boost so I'm wondering where the problem for that could lie ?? Should I go over the vacuum lines again and make sure it could it be something else

 

The is an actuator or control valve on the "y" pipe above the turbos should I look into that first ???

 

Looking into charge relief valve and charge actuator don't have a boost gauge or any way to test pressures at the moment

 

"The "zero boost on secondary" issue can be a vacuum line that runs to the a vacuum valve on the back part of the Y-pipe that tends to pop off"-- I said this already but you might've over looked it

You do in fact have a y-pipe which you said you didn't Anyways, the flapper door can get stuck after a leaking turbo can spew oil, jamming the flapper door with carbon and junk. A charge Relief valve would not make you loose "all the boost", its basically a blow off valve for when you are bellow 4000rpm which allows the secondary turbo which is "prespooling" to dump its charged air.

The actuator is the fault in this case as you just replaced the twins with another set. I would take out the Y-pipe and take it apart and clean the flapper door. You can grab a boost gauge for piece of mind, but I am positive that it IS the flapper door or the vacuum line to the actuator that is causing this issue.

 

Yes I realized what was meant by the y pipe but I just had the y pipe out of the car when changing the turbo and I had this issue before and after and I know that the lines are hooked up cause I did it yesterday as for the "flapper" in the y pipe I have tested the actuator above 4500 rpm and it does indeed open to let secondary boost into the y pipe I have also tested the prespool control actuator which also opens under rpms. I'm looking into the relief valve next as a precaution cause if it per say kept venting when it shouldn't I would loose all boost that's just a methodical view on it tho after that my next step will be the turbo control solenoid as that could be the last likely culprit possibly not supplying enough exhaust to the secondary other than that only the ecu could be at fault far as I know

 

Seems your on the right track, keep in mind that the solenoids control the operating system for the turbos and its actuators and valves. I think your next step would be to test the solenoids which you can do with a 9 volt battery by listening for a strong clicking sound, also these things can operate good when cold and fail when hot.....very strenuous job, good on you for being a " do it yourselfer"

 

Thanks JDK I will look into testing the solenoids tomorrow when I get a few hours and I will let you know what I find I appreciate the replies from all you guys and im trying to be as informative as possible so anyone else that has this issue may be able to use this thread for help and so that you guys can make knowledgeable assessments as to what may be happening and so far I'm more than happy will all the help, I'm not a rotary wiz but love working on it and am trying to learn as much as fast as I possibly can.

 

Alright some may have a little laugh about my findings today even tho I spent hours under the car uninstalling and installing turbos I didn't notice that the c clamp (exposed to 2 Canadian winters) had broken off or come off and the secondary turbo control actuator was no longer attached to its control mechanism "DUH" I know I didn't notice till today when I went to test the solenoids. I have yet to test drive it as I basically had temporary gasket for the downpipe manifold for testing and I have now blown that gasket out so I am awaiting the proper gaskets being shipped in I will update my status after all proper parts are installed and a full test drive is done .

 

Don't criticize to much I'm only 24 and have been working on this car myself for almost 4 years and sometimes I miss things lol

 

Alright guys I have finished all the swaps and replacement of gaskets. I am now having clouds of smoke on startup, now I have heard of issues like this from the old turbos being bad enough and dumping extra oil that could now take many starts to burn off is there any truth to that ?? Is there any other issue I should look into cause when I had it started after the swap before the secondary actuator was hooked up it didn't smoke as much as now but If there is truth to the previous point it seems like that could be a reasonable explanation but I would still like to look into any other thing that could be wrong rather then wait and keep smoking out the neighbourhood

 

If you've just reassembled, there must be lots of assembly lube or oil that will need the engine to run for 10-20, get up to temp, and usually rev a bit to burn off. Then, shut it down, look for leaks or drops in fluid levels, or cross-contamination. If none, take it for a short drive - it'll still probably smoke a bit until the engine is hot and placed under moderate sustained load for a bit, but I'd only be worried if it's still smoking after a 10-20 minute drive.

 

I’m assuming you just swapped out a used set of turbos which would mean they are close to 25 years old....it’s a gamble if they haven’t been rebuilt. On the other hand they do sometimes come back to life once the oil seals have been rejuvenated, but again that’s a long shot. Take them out and run them though a few heat cycles boosting them, then let them settle and cool. If all else fails seek out a good set of rebuilt twins for best results when playing with these things.

 

After running it for a short time I have noticed a bit of a oil leak which as far as I can tell is coming from the top secondary oil feed line but I can't be 100% positive at this point so I am going to spend the weekend ripping out the Turbos again and going over them to see if I can detect whether that's the leaky spot as I've never had issues with oil on the ground before if I solve the leak I will then let the car run to operating temp and see if the smoke clears then recheck for leaks and test drive if it's ok I'll post all updates. Any advice on things to check when I pull the turbos again ?

 

Oops, my bad on my previous comment, I mixed up this thread with another I was following and thought you had torn down the engine, not swapped turbos. Talking about burning off assembly oil makes no sense here.

 

Okay guys any help is appreciated on this one I am swapping the turbine out of the secondary turbo on my original set of turbos to replace the primary on my replacement turbos first off is it a good idea ? The secondary is very clean no leaks and very minimal to no shaft play. I will also post a pic of the turbo housing where it looks as if there is some sort of sealant use where the locking ring goes in ! What is this sealant ? Is the sealant necessary to obtain a air tight seal on the turbos ? Also how do I know if the locking ring has been put in the groove far enough when I put it back together ? Any advice would help

 

Sealant

 

Lock ring

 

There is no sealant for the locking ring, make sure everything....ring, seat and the groove are clean before you re-assemble. Before you pull the rear turbo off the set your going to use mark it's location and then duplicate the mark on the replacement unit so all the charge pipes line up. I've replaced damaged units with used front and rear turbos in the past with success.

 

Okay awesome the turbos were taken apart and marked and duplicated ! And as for a sealant it looks as if there was a high heat copper RTV put between the front intake side of turbo and the rear exhaust side when it was assembled (not where te ring actually sits my bad on that) the first pic above shows a bit of what the material looks like my buddy said it could be an anaerobic sealant and it could cause the primary to leak all psi before it builds enough pressure to spool and I could possibly have no turbo if that seal isn't replaced by a high heat copper RTV or the anaerobic sealant it self. Is there any type of sealnt between the housing does he sound like he could be right I would rather do it right then pull it apart again for some seal lol

 

This pic may help better to why I believe it's a high temp copper

 

Clean pristine please advise I bought hi temp copper RTV I plan to put it between turbine plate and housing

 

Plan to put copper seal between here