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engine oil and oil filter?

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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 12:52 PM
  #1  
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amemiya7
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engine oil and oil filter?

ok guys so i have decided to change the engine oil and oil filter MYSELF?
i need a lil help
can u guys pls tell me wats the best engine oil and oil filter to put in my fd3s?
where can i get these two things.. i am in north york toronto?
help pls
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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Oh, here we go...

thewird
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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Napa gold oil filter with the "dino" oil of your choice.....
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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filter you can go OEM goodness available at your mazda dealership, oil is your choice as stated above.....use the SEARCH function and enrich your life and brain matter
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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I'll not weigh in again here Search oil filter, fram, and my user name, I'm sure somthing will come up.

Seriously, though, there's loads on oil in the FAQ's and technical sections for each gen, and a search will find countless posts on this topic.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Gonna throw something out there...

Castrol GTX 10W-40 in the summer and 5W-30 in the winter but who drives in the winter anyway.

Change her often. If your car is of the hardcore variety, you should know what you need to put in her

thewird
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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i am totally new to fd3s rx7.. i have no history or clue that what previous owner was putting in... so if you guys can tell me which engine oil can keep the same performance and increase engine life...
i dont drive in winter i just got her.. but i want to change the oil,filter and spark plugs before summer.
drove only for hardly 3 days in mid october on 94 octane from sunoco.
do youguys know any mechanic or any shop where i can get the filter, oil and spark plugs other from the dealer
thanx
anees
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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You can get everything at Canadian Tire. Oil, filter, and spark plugs (although they won't have the plugs in stock but can get them in 1-2 days).

thewird
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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crappy tire only sells fram now.
personally i uses wix or OEM filters and 10w40 quaker state.
but i'm thinking of going to mobil1 this up coming summer see if it'll help keep my oil temps down at the track.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Syritis
crappy tire only sells fram now.
personally i uses wix or OEM filters and 10w40 quaker state.
but i'm thinking of going to mobil1 this up coming summer see if it'll help keep my oil temps down at the track.
Don't they sell Mobil 1 too? They have some improved Fram filters (Extra Guard 3x protection). I bought some for the RX8

Don't think changing oils is gonna keep your oil temps down :P. Bigger oil coolers or improve water cooling or both.

thewird
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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I use shell RotellaT and OEM filters. In everything I drive...
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by thewird
Don't they sell Mobil 1 too? They have some improved Fram filters (Extra Guard 3x protection). I bought some for the RX8

Don't think changing oils is gonna keep your oil temps down :P. Bigger oil coolers or improve water cooling or both.

thewird

i used to be loyal to fram untill i saw a cut away of their filters. the filter end caps are more filter media glued to the main filter rather then metal, probably why there have been so many reports of the filter media going through the motor. the check valve doesn't have a spring, just a rubber diaphragm.

my water temps don't move after 15 min of lapping and i moved the stock oil cooler to front mount for more cleaner air. the oil change itself isn't going to change the oil temps, but the synthetic oil is less susceptible to heat, is it not? also my motor smokes a bit and synthetic oil burns clear.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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you can get most of your needs from NAPA or parts source depending on where you live,
they can get you plugs in 20 mins, they usually have the oil you want in stock.
oil filter, your local mazda could get for you
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Syritis
i used to be loyal to fram untill i saw a cut away of their filters. the filter end caps are more filter media glued to the main filter rather then metal, probably why there have been so many reports of the filter media going through the motor. the check valve doesn't have a spring, just a rubber diaphragm.
I'm well aware of this issue: ask the man who lost a motor to a blocked oil gallery thanks to internal rubber parts from a Fram filter being passed directly into the engine (that on a brand new filter, too, I figure it happened immediately at startup after the oil change). The surface area of the media, even on the Extra Guards is smaller than all competitors too, meaning the media gets clogged faster and the filter bypasses unfiltered oil sooner - in fact, I've seen reports that they commonly do so even when new thanks to the poor checkvalve design combined with the small media area. Shoddy design and construction all round, and the more expensive versions just gild the lily (stink weed?) with better media but otherwise the same construction.

So much for me not weighing in on this yet again

Andrew - GRM had an article recently on selecting the correct grade of oil - if your oil temps are exceeding 270F (American mag), the prescription was heavier grade oil - but not unless. Gist of the article was that us guys who autocross or short-ish lapping sessions usually should be staying with regular street grades instead of 20W50 Mobil 1, (which I've been blending with Castrol GTX 10W/30 for a couple years now but will stop). I am reluctant to go with pure synth anyway, since Mobil 1 is no longer made using the better process, and there's still some debate about whether synth burns off well enough for rotories.

For the OP - I like the WIX or Purolator 1 filters - used to be able to get Purolator at Crappy Tire, but don't seem to be able to anymore - everything there is Fram, Fram rebranded as Canadian Tire, or Fram rebranded as Quaker State. The NAPA Gold are a Wix or Purolator (can't remember right now), so sometimes I get those, or AutoValue (local chain of parts stores) carries Wix. For a couple or 3 extra bucks, I won't lose another engine to a Fram filter.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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Oh my GOD, for the sake of humanity lock this thread, burn it , blow it up, destroy it.

USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION.

This has been beaten to death 8 million ways and thats just in the Canadian Section. I am going to personally flame (backfire out of my tailpipe, you guess if its the car or me) anybody who asks about Oil, filters or sparkplugs again unless they have a new take.

I gotta find some quiet corner of my mind to calm down in again................

GRRRRRRRRR, its not working................





Ooooops, uuurp..... I just remembered again and threw up in my mouth a bit............







Okay, I am calm now. Don't get me heated all over again.



Eric


The anti oil filter thread crusader.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Syritis
i used to be loyal to fram untill i saw a cut away of their filters. the filter end caps are more filter media glued to the main filter rather then metal, probably why there have been so many reports of the filter media going through the motor. the check valve doesn't have a spring, just a rubber diaphragm.

my water temps don't move after 15 min of lapping and i moved the stock oil cooler to front mount for more cleaner air. the oil change itself isn't going to change the oil temps, but the synthetic oil is less susceptible to heat, is it not? also my motor smokes a bit and synthetic oil burns clear.
Yes, synthetic lasts longer and won't break down over sustained periods of high oil temps. I misunderstood you were changing oils to lower your temps hehe.

Now I'm curious about the fram. I have one in my hand, how do I cut it open?

thewird
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by thewird
Yes, synthetic lasts longer and won't break down over sustained periods of high oil temps. I misunderstood you were changing oils to lower your temps hehe.

Now I'm curious about the fram. I have one in my hand, how do I cut it open?

thewird
Brute force and ignorance along with a hacksaw should work just fine. Or there's always the trusty reciprocating saw.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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die grinder would work better, it would do less pulling on the media material. or go to auto value. they have them there.
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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Cut off tool/die grinder, I used to work at a quick lube, Fram filters are plastic on the inside, I got bored one day and did some slicing... AcDelco filters are good quality tho. I stick to Mazda filters for my 7 myself. And you can't go wrong with Castrol GTX.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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A lot of people complain about Fram filters. Take apart an OEM Honda filter; it is exactly the same construction. Something interesting I noticed when I pulled my filter apart the last time I changed the oil in my Insight.
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