Calgarians please.
05-17-09, 10:38 PM
#1
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Calgarians please.
Any one in the calgary alberta area that wouldn't mind
stopping by to look at my car. I have a 1989 rx7 fc (s5)
and i'm not too shure about rotary engines so i don't even know
what i'm looking for.
And of course i would pay for your gas+ time
Brent
stopping by to look at my car. I have a 1989 rx7 fc (s5)
and i'm not too shure about rotary engines so i don't even know
what i'm looking for.
And of course i would pay for your gas+ time
Brent
05-18-09, 09:53 AM
#3
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well when i go to start it and it turns it just doesnt want to start
i smell gas from the exhaust and not from the engine bay
not even a week ago we had it started for at least 10 seconds (nothing great but it started)
aand then cut off
dont be discouraged when i say i live in forest lawn any help would be amazing please and thank you
brent
i smell gas from the exhaust and not from the engine bay
not even a week ago we had it started for at least 10 seconds (nothing great but it started)
aand then cut off
dont be discouraged when i say i live in forest lawn any help would be amazing please and thank you
brent
05-18-09, 04:21 PM
#5
Make sure your battery is well charged too. If you've already cranked it a lot, it may be weak, which doesn't help with clearing the flooding. Make sure your plugs are clean and dry (not covered in the oil/gas mix they're dripping when you pull them when it's flooded), when you put them back in and try to fire it again. Hold the throttle wide open when you're cranking it with the fuel fuse and plugs out - helps to move more air through the engine to dry out the chambers. Avoid cranking for longer than 30-40 sec bursts, with a minute or two in between - to avoid overheating your starter.
Your short start previously will be the cause of your flooding; this most often happens when the car is cold-started (especially at temps around 0-10*C, iirc), and run only briefly before shutting down. The next time you go to start, the excess rich mixture from the previous start is still in the engine, and the computer gives it a rich shot again to get it going, leading to the flooding. Unlike a piston engine (at least a healthy one), the excess fuel also has oil in it, which makes the mix harder to vapourize, and the rotors fling the puddled fuel mix on the plugs (it tends to run down the cylinder walls and rings in a piston engine). That doesn't help you get it going, but it does help understand why it's so hard to start once it's flooded.
Your short start previously will be the cause of your flooding; this most often happens when the car is cold-started (especially at temps around 0-10*C, iirc), and run only briefly before shutting down. The next time you go to start, the excess rich mixture from the previous start is still in the engine, and the computer gives it a rich shot again to get it going, leading to the flooding. Unlike a piston engine (at least a healthy one), the excess fuel also has oil in it, which makes the mix harder to vapourize, and the rotors fling the puddled fuel mix on the plugs (it tends to run down the cylinder walls and rings in a piston engine). That doesn't help you get it going, but it does help understand why it's so hard to start once it's flooded.
05-18-09, 04:51 PM
#6
Ditto, much more thorough post than mine, filled in all the holes, great job! 
Make sure your battery is well charged too. If you've already cranked it a lot, it may be weak, which doesn't help with clearing the flooding. Make sure your plugs are clean and dry (not covered in the oil/gas mix they're dripping when you pull them when it's flooded), when you put them back in and try to fire it again. Hold the throttle wide open when you're cranking it with the fuel fuse and plugs out - helps to move more air through the engine to dry out the chambers. Avoid cranking for longer than 30-40 sec bursts, with a minute or two in between - to avoid overheating your starter.
Your short start previously will be the cause of your flooding; this most often happens when the car is cold-started (especially at temps around 0-10*C, iirc), and run only briefly before shutting down. The next time you go to start, the excess rich mixture from the previous start is still in the engine, and the computer gives it a rich shot again to get it going, leading to the flooding. Unlike a piston engine (at least a healthy one), the excess fuel also has oil in it, which makes the mix harder to vapourize, and the rotors fling the puddled fuel mix on the plugs (it tends to run down the cylinder walls and rings in a piston engine). That doesn't help you get it going, but it does help understand why it's so hard to start once it's flooded.
Your short start previously will be the cause of your flooding; this most often happens when the car is cold-started (especially at temps around 0-10*C, iirc), and run only briefly before shutting down. The next time you go to start, the excess rich mixture from the previous start is still in the engine, and the computer gives it a rich shot again to get it going, leading to the flooding. Unlike a piston engine (at least a healthy one), the excess fuel also has oil in it, which makes the mix harder to vapourize, and the rotors fling the puddled fuel mix on the plugs (it tends to run down the cylinder walls and rings in a piston engine). That doesn't help you get it going, but it does help understand why it's so hard to start once it's flooded.
05-19-09, 12:26 AM
#7
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and to save your next question, you can either fix the cause of the problem if its a leaky injector or search "fuel cutoff switch" or something similar for the easy as pie instructions on installing a fuel cutoff switch so u can cut the fuel when it happens next time. mind u the S5 should cut if u floor the pedal, could be wrong, never had one
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05-19-09, 11:49 AM
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thank you guys!
alot more helpful than beyond.ca
but i already have a fuel cutoff switch I believe and ive tried the removing the fuel fuse
and pedal to the floor starting and it didnt work but with this method i had it started for ten seconds earlier this week?
i got some new sparkplugs thinkt this might help?
and how can i install a new fuel filter one came with the car and im looking to get it on
alot more helpful than beyond.ca
but i already have a fuel cutoff switch I believe and ive tried the removing the fuel fuse
and pedal to the floor starting and it didnt work but with this method i had it started for ten seconds earlier this week?
i got some new sparkplugs thinkt this might help?
and how can i install a new fuel filter one came with the car and im looking to get it on
05-19-09, 11:10 PM
#9
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Okay, some how-to's for you for fuel filter:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...er+replacement
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...er+replacement
Basically, depressurize then replace.
So you're saying you did what Rx7racerca said? Did you check your plugs? Are they good or fouled? Everything connected?
PS beyond is a kiddie forum...
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...er+replacement
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...er+replacement
Basically, depressurize then replace.
So you're saying you did what Rx7racerca said? Did you check your plugs? Are they good or fouled? Everything connected?
PS beyond is a kiddie forum...
05-20-09, 09:50 AM
#10
Still not going? Try leaving the plugs out overnight. If it has a block heater, plug it in for a couple hours to warm up the engine before trying again, too. Dry, new plugs should help. Seems kind of elementary, but have you confirmed its getting spark?
The links Flash provided are good guides for changing the fuel filter. Be prepared to plug or pinch off the fuel lines, especially the one aft of the filter - the one bringing fuel from the tank into the filter (it's best accessed from below, with the front of the car raised and supported). Otherwise, even with front raised, if there's much fuel in the tank, gravity will have a LOT of fuel coming out of the feed line - ask the man who's gotten a face full, and had to sop up his garage floor to boot.
The links Flash provided are good guides for changing the fuel filter. Be prepared to plug or pinch off the fuel lines, especially the one aft of the filter - the one bringing fuel from the tank into the filter (it's best accessed from below, with the front of the car raised and supported). Otherwise, even with front raised, if there's much fuel in the tank, gravity will have a LOT of fuel coming out of the feed line - ask the man who's gotten a face full, and had to sop up his garage floor to boot.
05-22-09, 10:42 AM
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alright boys riddle me this =)
she reluctantly starts but she will.
but i can rev and redline her but if i remove my foot and it gets to about 1750 rpm
then she will die on me =(
what should i look at now
she reluctantly starts but she will.
but i can rev and redline her but if i remove my foot and it gets to about 1750 rpm
then she will die on me =(
what should i look at now
05-22-09, 09:20 PM
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bahahah thats a good one!
well no i live near the highschool so it's very nice around here actually
and im probably the worst thing on my block at least =D
but yeah anytime your free i'd appreciate it intensely you don't even understand
she starts sometimes and when she fires up if i let her drop below 2000rpm she dies
but if i keep her high revving i can drive her and she will move i just cant keep her going
well no i live near the highschool so it's very nice around here actually
and im probably the worst thing on my block at least =D
but yeah anytime your free i'd appreciate it intensely you don't even understand
she starts sometimes and when she fires up if i let her drop below 2000rpm she dies
but if i keep her high revving i can drive her and she will move i just cant keep her going
05-23-09, 08:07 AM
#17
I'd be looking for cracked or missing vacuum lines as a start, since your problem seems to be idling. Have you found yourself a Haynes manual or the FSM (it can be found online as PDF's - http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/ ; you'll want the sections on Engine (01), N/a fuel & emissions controls (4A), and section 5 on Engine Electrical to start off with. My Haynes isn't handy (in the guest room, and we have a guest sleeping there), but I'll pull it out later and see if it has anything that might fit your described problem.
Have you compression-checked the engine by chance? Blown engines aren't common on n/a cars, but a blown or seriously worn engine will make starting and running difficult. Aaroncake from these forums has lots of rx-7 how-to's posted both in the 2nd gen forum, and his own website..
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm
Have you compression-checked the engine by chance? Blown engines aren't common on n/a cars, but a blown or seriously worn engine will make starting and running difficult. Aaroncake from these forums has lots of rx-7 how-to's posted both in the 2nd gen forum, and his own website..
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm
05-23-09, 08:20 PM
#20
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I'd be looking for cracked or missing vacuum lines as a start
when i had that problem some idiot had forgotten to tighten the throttle body elbow to the intake pipe. shame no one but me had worked on that car
could barely even pull start it an had much the same symptoms as you describe. if ur goin hunting for vac leaks check where your manifolds mate up as well as the hoses an obvious things.
05-25-09, 08:42 AM
#21
I never got back with what the Haynes diagnostics suggested, but pretty much looking for vacuum leaks (hoses or gaskets), along with low compression, faulty primary injectors, low/incorrect fuel pressure, and a laundry list of malfunctioning/disconnected sensors. Did the car develop it's starting/idling problem suddenly?
FWIW, Calgary Public Library still has a copy of the Haynes RX-7 manual in - which might be easier than finding one at an auto or book store. (I just did a quick search for Haynes Mazda rx-7) https://catalogue.calgarypubliclibra...3290039/2/1000
FWIW, Calgary Public Library still has a copy of the Haynes RX-7 manual in - which might be easier than finding one at an auto or book store. (I just did a quick search for Haynes Mazda rx-7) https://catalogue.calgarypubliclibra...3290039/2/1000
05-28-09, 04:48 PM
#22
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RX-7 Specialties
3813 17th Avenue SW
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
T3E 0C3
phone: 1-403-246-6980
email: espritauto@nucleas.com
website: www.rotaryengine.com
3813 17th Avenue SW
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
T3E 0C3
phone: 1-403-246-6980
email: espritauto@nucleas.com
website: www.rotaryengine.com