GeenIdee

Had a minor flaw in the map, running lean for a short time at the moment I start accelerating at a certain rpm. Reducing the injector transition time fixed this.
It was also a bit rich while cruising, hurting my wallet.
All fixed now and it goes like a rocket! (flame's included)

GeenIdee

Hey guys,

I want new wheels as soon as I can but I can't make up my mind.

Any suggestions?

I have been thinking about Work MCO-racing, D9R and T7R.
The thing is, there are so many hot wheels but I don't want wheels that are realy heavy or don't look right with my car.



Also, rear over fenders or not?
I've seen fenders that don't go all the way towards the door. Don't know if I like that view.

Any ideas are welcome

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

How about the Ronin Speedworks widebody (Tri-Point)?

Weds TC105n

GeenIdee

interesting.. I go look at that one when I get back after the weekend, thx

GeenIdee

Sooo, I had a short test at the track at Zandvoort. Way to much understeer en front lockup.

I've got new front tires now and ready to try again.

This thursday are 2 track sessions availeble during the qualification for the 24h of zolder, meaning that there is no noise limit :mrgreen:
So I am planning to abuse this opportunity to do another test and make a LOT of noise.

The thing is though, Zolder is really harsh on the brakes. So I did my best to get some cooling at them.

It is a realy tight fit. If the swaybar wasn't there, I had plenty of room. Now things get put under tension at full lock.

This is a temporarily thing. If I get a bbk in the future I might not need extra cooling at all.

S2-13BT

Nice work on the ducting. Hopefully you have good brakes all day.

For wheels, how about the good ol 17x9+22 RPF1? Fairly cheap. Nice and light. Look great. You can move your current tyres over (although a bit of a stretch on the front??) and then go to 255/40 all around next time you're up for a set.

GeenIdee

thanks,

I don't really like the rp1 to be honest. I think I go for the tc105n. 17x8.5 and 17x9.5. The 9.5's have an offset what should fit under stock rear fenders. Altough it saves me money, A small bit of me was looking forward on rear over fenders.

Ah well, We'll see.

I won't go wider on the front by the way. No p/s, so really sensitive for a change in scrub radius.

GeenIdee

Well, the brakes survived. They felt a bit soft now and then, but no real fading. Altough I must say that I did brake early and did a cool down lap now and then.

The handeling isn't how I want it to be yet, and I don't have a good feel with the car yet.

Also, I don't know yet if I'm happy that I took off the p/s


Last but not least, I've got to change the oil catch tank system thingy. It spits out to much oil. So the next project would have to be a new oil filler neck with appropriate breather connection.

S2-13BT

Fair enough man. The Weds Sports are great rims too. Also really light! They're a good choice.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Having no PS is a love or hate relationship. I personally like having a manual rack - staying in the gym helps to combat fatigue heh.

I really like your driving style, so relaxed!

GeenIdee

Thanks man,

After some thinking I figured out that this is what's happening:

The steering feels kinda heavy combined with an agressive steeringwheel response. This makes me feel less in control because it feels like the car is steering it self with giving me the abilitty to do some minor corrections.

If you look at the video at 1:20, you can see what I mean.

Those kerbs have a slight angle on them, grabbing the inner wheels and giving you more cornering speed. But you can also see how agressive the steering response is by looking at the wheel.

And I must add that it was worse when the 20mm spacers were on there.


I just don't know yet if it is a good or a bad thing. I mean, it makes you feel less in control, although it almost corrects it self als you can see later at 2:00




Anyway, I've recieved the first parts to make a new filler neck with an AN10 breather connection to hopefully prevent the oil catch can from over filling. More on that soon.

I'm also heaving a clunk sound in the rear at the moment I put down some power.
I can accelerate with no sounds, but with more power I hear a clunk in the rear.
This is only once, it first has to "clunk the other way" before I hear this again under acceleration.

I moved the pinion up and down with an tire iron, I heard nothing while doing that and I could see the front mount flexing with the movement of the diff assuming that the front mount is still intact.

I will retorque the diff and subframe bolts this weeks, other then that I have no clue yet what it could be.

Stay tuned

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

To make steering a bit easier, you can run less caster (try 3.5degrees positive). It might also help you control the bumpsteer better. Running a smaller spacer will definitely help as well!

I like running over kerbs as well in dog legs; I just sort of got used to the bumpsteer... It always normalizes for me.

Bumpsteer is a bit hard to correct on lowered FC's, you can try raising the steering rack - but that might create some interference with other components in your engine bay.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

I have a manual rack and 275 tires all around. The car steers really easily, but it also does not understeer. The steering will be easier and require less input once you free up the rear end. The car will also be more responsive. I watched your video, it looks like you have to put too much wheel into the car to get it to turn. Watch my video below. I know it's not the same track or speeds, but it might help.

Mine does not have too much bump steer, but I need to get some more spacers to eliminate it. I have tie rod ends that are bump steer adjustable.

The clunk you are hearing is probably just gear clash.. Pretty normal if you have upgraded diff and subframe bushings.

GeenIdee

I don't have a manual rack, but removed the p/s and modified the p/s rack.

how is your wheel allignment?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

So your rack is going to be harder to turn than a real manual rack because of the ratio, but you should need less steering input.

1/16 inch toe out in front, 3/8 inch toe in in the back (you may need less depending on what kind of power you are making)

-2.8 camber up front, -1.3 in the rear. Caster is about -5 degrees.

GeenIdee

Yep, so I could try a true manual rack if I want


I've got either 0.5 or 1 degree toe out on the front, and 1mm toe in on the rear (I changed the front on a computer, therefore the front is in degrees and the rear in mm)

Camber is set at 2.0 and 0.8
Caster, for what I've been told, is 1 degree on top of original. So i assume it is 5°40'

But, I just started playing around with all these things so it can only get better

GeenIdee

Made an oil filler neck with AN10 bung, hopefully this will be enough to prevent oil spitting out all over the engine .

I still need to find wheelbearing dust caps.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Drill a small hole in your dust caps, they will stop popping of on the track.

GeenIdee

Yep, Found that trick somewhere on the forum Thanks.

But I first need caps to drill into haha

GeenIdee

Hey guys,

Still didn't bought new wheels. The reason for that has everything to do with the following:

Power steering.


In the past I had removed the p/s completely and modified the steering rack.
This gave me the ability to save some weight, it gave me much needed space and it should give me a more direct feel in the steering wheel.


Well, it did give me a more direct feel and I also really like the way it drives, although I began to notice that the steering wheel over reacted on things like potholes or bumbs etc.

Removing the 20mm in the front improved it quiet a bit (note that I do not have wide fenders), meaning that wheel size (width and offset) makes huge difference in the feedback to the wheels (in the wrong way).

I expect that going wider without power steering will do things with my steering wheel that I am not going to like very much.



Also, I don't like the feel on the track. It is hard for me to explain what and why exactly but I am not getting the confidence I would like to have to go fast.




So, after a while thinking about it, I have decided to put back the power steering so that I get back the option to go wider (not made up my mind about that just yet). And I hope it will give me back the confidence I remembered the last time I drove on the track with power steering.

But, using OEM parts was not an option.

I wanted it as light as possible and as small as possible because the space that came available is already used by something else.



So after a chat with the guys from KRC power I have ordered and received a KRC pro series III pump with external tank and the appropriate pulley.

The chosen pump is a 7.2cc / rev version, is adjustable and the external tank gives me more install options.


So, can't wait until I can test it, but it might take a while

Road Pirate

iTrader: (2)

Awesome build, curious to see how your PS setup works out for you!

GeenIdee

Sorry for the long wait, things are taking way to long.

Took a while to get the cutting file for the mounting plate to weld the KRC bracket to.
Bought an old volvo with plans in mind. Still working on getting it good and safe to sell after I changed my mind.
Bought a Peugeot 206 gti to race in a Dutch 206 gti cup.
Bought a new daily.
Trying to find other work / starting my own company.

Soo, yea, its still not done and progress is slow.


Friend of mine helped me making a cutting file to make the mounting plate. John Huijben helped me machining some material of the KRC bracket and Yesterday I was finally able to weld them together.
Parts store was closed so couldn't get a V-belt for a proper test fit but all looks OK.


I think next step is to find me an S5 steering rack now.

ablesnead

iTrader: (1)

my understanding is that the s4 rack has a quicker ratio...

GeenIdee

If I am correct, mine is 2.70 turn lock-to-lock. You can also have one that is 3.09 turns.

The S4 rack that I got from john is 2.70 turns if I can remember it correctly. However, it has 3 line connections (2 pressure 1 return?) what tells me that it belongs to an electronically controlled p/s system and according to the workshop manual that I have that should be a 3.09 one.

I also thought that the non-p/s from the S4 had 3.09. But I am getting a bit confused now.

ablesnead

iTrader: (1)

I have read , but have no first hand experience , that on US cars the manual has a 20:1 ratio , the power s5 , a 17:1 , and an s4 power 15:1 , ...