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S6 Housings = No Coolant port. Solution is as follows
S6 housings, like the ones on the new engine, have no open coolant port. So there are two solutions.
#1. Drill into the capped ports and open it up to the coolant passage again.
#2. Run a separate coolant line from the upper coolant outlet.
I'm not a fan of hot coolant soaking through my intake, and those PITA intake O-Rings that have a 50/50 chance of sealing for good. So I went with option 2.
The mod is fairly simple:
Cut the factory coolant line at about the bend where it leads upwards.
Use quality Rubber Hose. I went with Transmission Hose since it's thicker.
Use a Brass T-Fitting (Spend the extra couple bucks and do not get a plastic fitting. It won't take very many heat cycles, especially at that location on the engine, to cause it to fail, and, the peace of mind is worth it too.
Connect all the hoses, secure everything, maybe add some sheathing for protection
Notice where I cut the original coolant line.
Use the original, or new 90 degree hose, attach the T, and then the coolant line. The open Barb goes to the thermowax on the intake.
Hit 600 miles today, so we're getting closer to ending the break in period.
Fixed the passenger side power window switch. (Sorry, didn't take pics, but all I had to do was clean the contacts and then seal with Dielectric grease).
I think my oil pressure sender is faulty, so I'll be replacing it soon.
Been contemplating doing a Stage 2 T04B hybrid turbocharger mod later this year. Seems to be definitely in my capabilities and I'm missing the Knight Sports Hybrid turbo I had in my stolen '87 TII.
WOO ha, glad that Rtek is working out for you. She sounds beautiful
The Rtek is working very well. Thanks a ton!
Since the batteries on these Palms aren't anything close to new anymore, I was getting maybe 2 hours of battery life if I left the screen on.
SO, I made a cable that plugs into a standard phone USB charger.
She's going through more than a quart every 500 miles. Engine has about 1300 miles on it. I'm also premixing my fuel at about half an ounce to a gallon or less. I get a slight puff of smoke in the morning, but otherwise no smoke can be seen from the exhaust at any rpm.
OMP rod freely moves.
Oil pressure sits kinda high. Cruising I see about 65 on the gauge, higher depending on rpms, and 30 at idle usually. A cold start puts the oil pressure at 110 psi until it's warm. Most of my RX's have been like this, so I'm not too worried.
Perhaps it's still breaking in and will start to use less? I'll update the thread as this unfolds.
Oil consumption has calmed down to normal levels, I'm for now going to blame the rapid use on the break-in period.
Been using the TrimPal to get the fuel dialed in a little more. Just a little map smoothing left and I'll be content... for now
Today I'll be updating the central locking system to the 21st century by installing remote power locks. Bought a kit off amazon with some stellar reviews for a great price and plenty of extras. Perhaps I'll code up a Tiny88 chip and a solenoid to flash the lights when I lock or unlock. Maybe I'll eventually buy a full security system. Undecided at the moment.
Well, she's not a fan of boost higher than about 7psi. If I turn the boost controller up higher, I get some knocking. My AFRs look rich however. I tried pulling fuel and pushing fuel, without much change. I'm aiming to keep my AFRs in the 11s, and the trim tool has definitely helped.
So, I'm thinking ignition, and I've ordered a new set of wires and plugs and maybe my issue is bad wires breaking up.
Perhaps this weekend I'll throw in the conservative boost based timing map too.
I did get the Ignition timing issue figured out. Classic case of wrong front pulleys. Changed them over to S5 pulleys to match the hub, retimed, and all is well now.
Have the boost level set at 14psi max, and it has no issue getting to those levels while keeping the AFR's in check. My butt dyno says between 250 and 300rwhp as even with my wider rear tires, she'll still kick out the rear end in 2nd or 3rd just by slamming the go-pedal. I really should tune my Profec B II to ramp the boost a little more.
Currently has a wastegate modded S5 charger on it, I'm debating on converting it over to a T04B hybrid, or buying another charger with this already done to it, like a Nightsports, or BNR; may even find a good deal on a cast manifold and just get a more common turbo on it. My goals aren't sky high, so if I can push 350rwhp reliably, I'll be happy.
She is in hibernation at the moment, sitting covered in the garage. It gets started once a month, and starts quicker than my DD's, literally first half revolution every time.
She is getting painted this spring. I'm leaning toward a shade like Mazda Velocity Red or standard Mazda Vintage Red. Basically looking for the stock shade, but a deeper 21st century look, which is why I'm thinking velocity. Also would be nice to have it be a common color incase of future imperfections.
09-12-16, 02:51 PM
