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SCCA Build. Also i Need of parts!
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Im in the process of turning a 1987 T2 into a fun track car. My goal is to build an all around fun car with a full race day setup excluding the Engnine.
I have an S5 T2 motor that i purchased from a gentleman in Sarasota, FL. Real cool guy he gave me a great deal on a beautiful motor. My goal for the motor is a reliable 350whp. The car has a title and all so i will be driving it on the rds. I also wouldnt mind those with information on chiming in on what mods are best for an auto cross/circuit car.... Im no pro and im learning as i go. Thanks for any input, And im not rich so the car wont be done in a month but i will be done in under 9days is my goal! **NOTE: I am always look for parts for the car! So if you have anything i could use please let me know! Parts in need: EMS, FPR, Fuel Pump, Injectors, Downpipe for stock turbo. Exhaust. Radiator, E-Fan, Oil Cooler, Stock coils or Aftermarket, T2 hood. After Market suspension parts. Ok so about the motor S5 T2 13bt Street ported Water jackets opened up on spark plug side. Port and Polished throttle body Engine also came with an Atkins Master Rebuild Kit and A T2 Transmission. |
More pics
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More pics of the motor setup.
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And the Car
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Going full roll cage is the plan.
I need help as far as suspension mods to do for best handling. |
I'm kinda setting up my car for autox also. The tip I would give you is get ahold of an SCCA rule book and build you car for the class you want to run. I made the mistake of doing a street port on my car which bumped me up into a class I could be competitive in. You have the perfect blank canvas to start with though.
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Im going to def do that since you said that. I actually have a street port, plus mine is gutted and will have a roll cage eventually.... I hope i dont get thrown into a really bad class and just get my butt handed to me. Ive never done auto x but have always wanted to.
Thanks |
Update
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:nod:
Got in some new parts the last couple of days. Purchased a brand new aftermarket drive shaft.. Also got the stock S5 t2 flywheel resurface and the gentleman did a great job on it. He also put a 8 a/n fitting on the front cover for the turbo drain line... Does anyone know the Thread size and pattern for the turbo oil feed line? Need New Part!! Need S4 Fuel Rails! Also an FPR. |
Energy master bushing kit was also purchased. Front end bushings were put on too...
Im looking into coilovers, what setups are guys running for the FC that works well? |
More Pics
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Bushings done
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Subscribe.
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Originally Posted by SikFC3S
(Post 11870758)
Im in the process of turning a 1987 T2 into a fun track car. My goal is to build an all around fun car with a full race day setup ..... Im no pro and im learning as i go.
No offense, but you are not capable of maxxing out a stock chassis right now and as you gain experience, you won't have to ask advice because you'll know what needs doing. Putting a car on track is enormously (and usually, unexpectedly) expensive...keep a close eye on your expenses (food, travel, lodging...everything) and you'll see. There is no point in spending on hardware that you haven't the experience to utilize, especially if money is limited. Your ability (non-existent at the moment) to evaluate and set up a chassis is the most important thing to develop right now...the car is actually much less important in the beginning stages. The second most important thing is to learn to drive what ya got. Chances are you will never field the top dog vehicle, someone always has better shit and more money. Winners win with inferior kit because they realize that they are the most important part of the equation and totally believe in themselves. They don't get psyched because a competitor seems to have better equipment. You need seat time more than coilovers. |
agreed, most important part in a track car is the driver. i give you an example. we're running a miata this year. its actually quite a simple car, its all stock, except these magic shocks, expensive diff, and the safety stuff. we put it on Rotas, and hoosiers. its a PTE/TTE car (NASA)
driver number 1 runs a 1:44.8 at Laguna, which is half second off the lap record for the class. driver number 2 is trying to break 1:50, and he built the car. study the rule book, build a car for the slowest class you can, and get out there! |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11874534)
Don't touch the car, buy good tires and spend the rest on track time.
No offense, but you are not capable of maxxing out a stock chassis right now and as you gain experience, you won't have to ask advice because you'll know what needs doing. Putting a car on track is enormously (and usually, unexpectedly) expensive...keep a close eye on your expenses (food, travel, lodging...everything) and you'll see. There is no point in spending on hardware that you haven't the experience to utilize, especially if money is limited. Your ability (non-existent at the moment) to evaluate and set up a chassis is the most important thing to develop right now...the car is actually much less important in the beginning stages. The second most important thing is to learn to drive what ya got. Chances are you will never field the top dog vehicle, someone always has better shit and more money. Winners win with inferior kit because they realize that they are the most important part of the equation and totally believe in themselves. They don't get psyched because a competitor seems to have better equipment. You need seat time more than coilovers. But i do understand that my skills dont exist. I appreciate your input though. |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11874613)
agreed, most important part in a track car is the driver. i give you an example. we're running a miata this year. its actually quite a simple car, its all stock, except these magic shocks, expensive diff, and the safety stuff. we put it on Rotas, and hoosiers. its a PTE/TTE car (NASA)
driver number 1 runs a 1:44.8 at Laguna, which is half second off the lap record for the class. driver number 2 is trying to break 1:50, and he built the car. study the rule book, build a car for the slowest class you can, and get out there! Well im looking to try and get out there by march 22nd. |
You'll have a better, more useful suspension with KYB/Bilstein/Koni shocks paired with RB/Eibach springs than any coilovers likely to be in your budget.
Is this car being taken off the street permanently? |
Originally Posted by SikFC3S
(Post 11875022)
I see. So just getting in seat time is by far the most important thing right now..
Well im looking to try and get out there by march 22nd. among the racers, the Ground control or AWR setups, are pretty popular, it lets you run a good shock, which is the important part. the spring and hardware are just springs and hardware... but yes, you want seat time, without having to work on the car at the track. later you will play with the suspension at the track, but ideally that is about it. there is a hierarchy there though, the people doing it wrong will spend the whole weekend in the pits working on the car, and then the next step up are people who hardly touch the car, then you work on the suspension, and then the holy grail are the people that have people to vacuum the inside of the car between sessions. we've been racing for more than a decade and we play with the suspension a little, and stare with awe and wonder at the people vacuuming their car |
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Got some work done. Covered the engine bay in that truck bed liner stuff.
Got my haltech and wiring harness ready for install too. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11875031)
You'll have a better, more useful suspension with KYB/Bilstein/Koni shocks paired with RB/Eibach springs than any coilovers likely to be in your budget.
Is this car being taken off the street permanently? And yes i plan on being able to take the car out on the streets |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11875034)
for starters, you just want something simple, and safe. so new bearings, fresh brakes. fix anything broken. for springs/shocks, a real race car will skip the chinese/ebay stuff, as its junk. so you could either find some decent shocks, and run it almost stock, or go for a race setup.
among the racers, the Ground control or AWR setups, are pretty popular, it lets you run a good shock, which is the important part. the spring and hardware are just springs and hardware... but yes, you want seat time, without having to work on the car at the track. later you will play with the suspension at the track, but ideally that is about it. there is a hierarchy there though, the people doing it wrong will spend the whole weekend in the pits working on the car, and then the next step up are people who hardly touch the car, then you work on the suspension, and then the holy grail are the people that have people to vacuum the inside of the car between sessions. we've been racing for more than a decade and we play with the suspension a little, and stare with awe and wonder at the people vacuuming their car I would hate to go to a track day and just completely work on the car outside of suspension tuning... I mean i do plan on tuning the computer on the car while at the track though. But not actually have to fix things... Thats part of the reason im keeping the boost low. LoL Im sure ill stare too. Im going into this with the idea that ill learn and grow. And the FUN factor. If im not enjoying it then why do it. So losing for a while wont hurt. |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11875034)
for starters, you just want something simple, and safe... for springs/shocks, a real race car will skip the chinese/ebay stuff, as its junk. so you could either find some decent shocks, and run it almost stock, or go for a race setup.
but yes, you want seat time, without having to work on the car at the track. later you will play with the suspension at the track, but ideally that is about it. You paid for a multitude of adjustments with a billion possible combinations...and 90% are wrong. It's more likely your new Ohlins set up would be worse than stock without knowledgeable setup. I think you'll find the first couple of track experiences will be sensory overload, you won't have time/energy to screw with suspension. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11875103)
I think you'll find the first couple of track experiences will be sensory overload, you won't have time/energy to screw with suspension.
the suspension tuning bit is true as well, half the point is to add adjustability, and then step 2 is figuring out what each thing does, which takes time. |
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The injectors came in.
Also got a brand new 3 bar map sensor for $17 bucks... I was at advance auto asking about the map sensor and when I look it up on Google in my phone I find this one... Funny because their cheapest was $65... Also took a photo of my uncles garage with my cousins 500whp FC... Everything is rotary... Family Tradition. Lol Seriously thanks for the input guys. I've decided to go with the ground control suspension. I like the idea of picking the shocks best for me in the future... Should I also get camber plates? |
yeah, you want more negative camber in the front
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11875643)
yeah, you want more negative camber in the front
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So I I'm having a problem.. The transmission mount does bolt up to the bushings on the transmission...
Do I have the wrong bushings? The mount is for 87 s 4 T2 I'm attaching some pics. |
You're missing a piece.
There's a bracket that cradles the trans and bolts to the blocks on either side. This then drops onto the crossmember you show in the pics. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11876045)
You're missing a piece.
There's a bracket that cradles the trans and bolts to the blocks on either side. This then drops onto the crossmember you show in the pics. |
Page J1-9 of the fsm shows the assembly but it's all listed under the name "transmission mount" and not individually named/numbered.
You can see what it looks like though. |
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here is the FSM pic. keep in mind that the rubber bit, 39-340 is the same S4 and S5, but the other bits are not.
39-410 is S4 or S5, and then 39-380 is S4 NA, S4 T2 or S5 na or S5 T2 |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11876174)
here is the FSM pic. keep in mind that the rubber bit, 39-340 is the same S4 and S5, but the other bits are not.
39-410 is S4 or S5, and then 39-380 is S4 NA, S4 T2 or S5 na or S5 T2 |
Alright thank you..
Im kind of worried about my steering rack. I removed the power steering so i dont know if it can withstand a lot of punishment. Whats should i do about it? |
Update
Im getting the ruel rails cut on the ends and put -6 an fittings on them. I also got the Walboro fuel pump and the Mazda Trix Throtle cable. Going to be dropping the motor in this weekend hopefully. |
Are you installing a manual rack or just depowering the rack?
There are several write ups on properly converting a power rack to manual, I've done it twice and it's not hard (assuming you have some tools). There are three ratios available with the FC racks. Some power racks are 15:1, some are 17:1 and all manuals are 20:1. Depending on tire size and intended use, one ratio may suit you better...I prefer the straight manual 20:1 for a street car with a stock diameter steering wheel. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11877330)
Are you installing a manual rack or just depowering the rack?
There are several write ups on properly converting a power rack to manual, I've done it twice and it's not hard (assuming you have some tools). There are three ratios available with the FC racks. Some power racks are 15:1, some are 17:1 and all manuals are 20:1. Depending on tire size and intended use, one ratio may suit you better...I prefer the straight manual 20:1 for a street car with a stock diameter steering wheel. But I won't be putting power steering back on the car so I'd like to have something that works and will endure. |
bump. Just doing some small tedious things to the car. But looking to fire it up very soon.
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Originally Posted by SikFC3S
(Post 11877361)
I'm not familiar at all with racks and I'd like a rack that would be good for 🔞 inch rims too...
But I won't be putting power steering back on the car so I'd like to have something that works and will endure. -Buy a manual rack and bolt it in. Tip: two clamps hold the rack to the subframe. The driver side clamp is the same no matter what rack you use but the passenger side is specific to the rack. If you buy a manual rack, be sure to get the clamp also. -Depower/convert your rack. Here's how you do it: Flyin' Miata : Tech: 1.8 conversion |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11880051)
You have two options:
-Buy a manual rack and bolt it in. Tip: two clamps hold the rack to the subframe. The driver side clamp is the same no matter what rack you use but the passenger side is specific to the rack. If you buy a manual rack, be sure to get the clamp also. -Depower/convert your rack. Here's how you do it: Flyin' Miata : Tech: 1.8 conversion Hey I never could find that part for my trans mount... Anybody have any suggestions? |
Landon is somewhere around you isn't he?
He probably has more 7's laying around than most junkyards. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11880078)
Landon is somewhere around you isn't he?
He probably has more 7's laying around than most junkyards. What's the name of his business? |
Originally Posted by SikFC3S
(Post 11880292)
I'm not sure who Landon is but I'd definitely get in contact with him if I can.
What's the name of his business? |
Originally Posted by SikFC3S
(Post 11880292)
I'm not sure who Landon is but I'd definitely get in contact with him if I can.
What's the name of his business? He does seem to have a whole lotta 7's but I don't know if he parts them or what. Must be relatively close, certainly worth a pm. Obviously, there's also our forum sale section and ebay. |
Alright, thanks guys. The progress has been slow since we are purchasing a home and have been getting ready to move. Im hoping the end of April the car should be on a track..
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Update
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Engine and trans are in the car.
Going to get started on the wiring harness.. |
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...07fcd92cd8.jpg
Originally Posted by SikFC3S
(Post 11886791)
Engine and trans are in the car.
Going to get started on the wiring harness.. |
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Needed parts
Hey guys i need a downpipe for a stock turbo set up!
Also looking for a coilover suspension. |
Installed
Installed the coilovers and the front end of the car.
Im waiting on fuel rails from my fab guy. Then ill be getting fuel system done. Ive decided to contact the Delerium Motorsports team to tune the car. My aim is a humble 350whp but will settle for any reliable numbers over 300whp. The turbo is stock and i dont want to ruin anything before i upgrade the turbo.. Anyway im still in search of parts if anyone has any, i need bolts for water pump housing and bolts for the alternator and starter. Here are some.pics of the car how it sits at the moment. And some.parts |
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Parts
Sumped gas tank
And I got an amazing deal some Kei Office coilovers! Which im in love with! S5 T2 wheels https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d127dd129c.jpg |
Looking good mate!
This reminds me I need to pull my fuel tank and clean it out. 8 year old fuel sitting in there! :( |
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