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Alright so i finally finished up the modifications of the LIM REW-UIM, and REW-Front Cover and sent them out to the machine shop to true up the mating flanges and some custom machine work on the UIM where I built up a pad with weld so it can be machined to acomodate a BOSCH MAP/IAT sensor on the bottom of the REW-UIM, as it is a quick reaction IAT sensor. So those are all off to the machine shop.
Now in the mean time I will be finishing up the S4 Water pump modifications so that the EFR8374 has appropriate clearances. I cut the inlet of the water pump housing and sectioned an 8 degree section and rotated it 15 degrees so that the nipple which will be used for the Turbo Coolandtfeed and return do not interfere with the EFR8374 Turbo Compressor housing either. I failed to take pictures of how close they were to the housing before modification, but you can see now all welded up ground and sandblasted it now has appropriate clearance for a hose, a hose clamp, and also the turbo coolant feed line will have an aluminum -06 AN weld on fitting in this location as well as the one on the back of the water pump housing for the turbo coolant return.
So, I have been toiling away waiting for the body work and paint to be finished and decided it is time to focus on suspension and brakes.
Since no-one has created a proper balanced big brake kit for the FC I am doing it myself. There is significant work to make sure this is proper. But the front design work is complete!
Front:
325x32mm Disc
Custom Alum Hat
Willwood Forged Superlite 4 Piston calipers and street brake pads
Custom brake line
Custom adapter bracket for caliper to OEM spindle
Rear:
324x22mm Disc
Custom Alum Hat
OEM Calliper with Street compound pads
Custom Adapter bracket to space out the OE calliper from the OE location.
The rears are on going but I have found a solution should be done design by months end. In keeping the OEM brake bias within 3% of OEM and maintaining the parking brake feature while improving braking torque by 20% and thermal mass by 10%. This will also be a 2 piece system to reduce un-sprung mass as well.
Any thoughts?
Last edited by jreynish; 02-11-18 at 07:07 PM.
Reason: Pictures would not load
So, I have been toiling away waiting for the body work and paint to be finished and decided it is time to focus on suspension and brakes.
Since no-one has created a proper balanced big brake kit for the FC I am doing it myself. There is significant work to make sure this is proper. But the front design work is complete!
Front:
325x32mm Disc
Custom Alum Hat
Willwood Forged Superlite 4 Piston calipers and street brake pads
Custom brake line
Custom adapter bracket for caliper to OEM spindle
Rear:
324x22mm Disc
Custom Alum Hat
OEM Calliper with Street compound pads
Custom Adapter bracket to space out the OE calliper from the OE location.
The rears are on going but I have found a solution should be done design by months end. In keeping the OEM brake bias within 3% of OEM and maintaining the parking brake feature while improving braking torque by 20% and thermal mass by 10%. This will also be a 2 piece system to reduce un-sprung mass as well.
Any thoughts?
Definitely check out the CTS-V brake selection as an option instead of Wilwoods.
Love your thread on the InfinityBox. Such a great system. You're above and beyond on this car.
Definitely check out the CTS-V brake selection as an option instead of Wilwoods.
Love your thread on the InfinityBox. Such a great system. You're above and beyond on this car.
Interesting researching the CTS-V brakes. But there is a very small savings in using them VS the Wilwood Superlite. Have yet to determine if there is a quality difference there to justify redesigning my brackets, etc.
I figured 1/8" insn't that much as the casting is about 3/16-1/4" thick so I figured I would be safe... well either they were wrong or they did not try it with the larger diameter runner S5 Lower intake manifold cause you need to remove ALOT of material.
The 1/8 you're referring to is to deck the LIM flange to the block. Not the grinding amount on the runner. That's what it says on their site at least.
Then once the flange is decked 1/8, the grinding required on the runner would be less, which would help you in not making a hole.
That is what they said. My flange was decked 1/8" already and this still occurred. I looked at an S4 LIM it would have a lot less clearance issues than the S5.
So finally onto the electrical side of things. Since I dislike all the cold solder points in the majority of the FC electronics, I am sending the switches all out to be redone, I am removing the ETIRE wiring harness from the car save for Wipers, and Cruise control and replacing it all with infinitybox can-bus system.
The electrical will be as follows;
2 Power cells in the engine bay one left one right
1 power cell for the dash
1 in motion controller
1 power cell for the rear of the car
1 master cell
adaptronic M6000 with one small Aux module and 1 small real time module.
The front two power cells will power;
2 main Radiator fans
1 auxiliary A/C condenser fan
Electric water pump
Electric over hydraulic power steering pump
4 x aem smart coils
headlights Sakebomb HID 50W
headlight retractors
Fog lights
daytime driving lights (not sure if I will do this or just use the fog lights)
signal lights
parking lights
windshield washer motor
The dash powercell will power;
ECU (adaptronic, WB02 and TC-4)
Room lighting
Audio
Cruise control
Meters (custom speed hut fit into OEM cluster)
Mirror defrost
HVAC C/B
Ign/Acc
Wiper
Cigar lighter
The rear Power cell will take care of;
Reverse lights
signal lights
parking lights + license place lights
Fuel pumps
hatch cargo lights/bin lights
Audio Amp
Power Antenna
The in-motion controller will take care of;
Drivers/passenger windows
Sunroof
Doors lock/unlock
Hatch pop (remotely) (not sure if I will add this but I like the idea)
So I have finished doing a block diagram of 70% of the wiring required. Once that is finished I will be doing a wiring harness layout diagram so that I can plan the amount of wire and all the gauges of wire required for the project as well as the connectors/pins loom and boots that will be required.
The plan for all engine bay wiring will be ray-chem boots and loom.
The in-car will be expandable nylon loom with foam tape to keep it from making noise or rubbing through any insulation causing a short.
Things I have yet to determin;
whether or not I will do a custom 8" subwoofer behind the interior trim in the hatch near the gas tank filler.
what head unit (double din) I will be going with
what amplifier if any that I will use to power the subwoofer. (hoping for something reliable and compact so that I can hide it away like the rest.
Daytime running lights (led) custom fitted to JDM FTP lenses or simply replace my FTP's and run the fog lights as the daytime running lights.
Last edited by jreynish; 03-12-18 at 04:05 PM.
Reason: Missed a few items
Always good to see a resto mod, I'll probably be pinching a few idea's for mine. Although the CanBus system is well above and beyond what I want to do, I'm looking forward to seeing how well it works out.
Well I am trying to get the rest of the design work I need before I send out for machine work for all the the parts I have made, here is the next one. FC3S Bolt in Dual Fuel Pump Hanger. Take a peek and give me any feedback, I found a fuel safe bulkhead electrical connector that I plan to use.
Due to the FC pump hanger being so small and the new connector it was challenging to get a return hanger bar, and send line all in one.
So I merged the hanger bar and the return spout together. Both pumps feed into a -08 fitting same as return. This way I get the 6 pin connector, and all the fuel flow you could ever want/need. all components are Ethanol, and Fuel save. Aluminum will be anodized of course.
I finally got the parts that I needed to finish building the solid lines for the fuel system. So there is a solid -06 AN/JIC SS lines that split at a Y that run to the primary and secondary fuel rails. From there they go to the Turbosmart FPR2000 then a return line which will likely be braided and insulated in the same silicone insulation that was used on the solid lines to ensure that as little head soak as possible affects the fuel. I also completed the Turbo coolant line, and oil feed lines. take a look.
Great work, unusual to see the custom hard lines on top. I take you'll be using flexi lines from the engine to the bulkhead? To allow for engine movement.
Similar I used it for oil and coolant for the turbocharger a lot easier to work with than stainless steel. They would be fine for most fuels though there is some who allege that ethanol will corrode Ni-Cop. So just in case I used SS for the fuel lines.
Well after much prototyping and some rapid prototype orders I have come to the conclusion that the Brake calipers I spec'd for my build will not meet my stringent requirements. So I have decided to to with AP Racing Radial mount 4 pistons up front and the OEM in the back with a larger radius rotor. A redesign on that is forthcoming.
Also trying to re-design the FC Fuel hanger so that the machine operations can be done in two parts rather than four to reduce overall costs. Then that will be off to the rapid prototyping for production as well.
I am also media blasting all the nuts, bolts, and washers so that I can send them for Cad plating and I can start assembly of some of the sub-assemblies like the sub-frames and engine.
Finally I have finished the design work on the Replacement OEM Gauge Cluster that first my speed hut gauges and looks nearly completely OEM. take a look.
This is the OE style bolt in clip that will allow me to run -06 Feed and return lines.
I am finally starting to get my prototypes in for my project, these were the first things I ordered and I have others that will follow.
Rotor Hats, Caliper brackets, Fuel tank cover, Fuel pump brackets, Alternator pulley, Gauge bezel and backing plate. These are all things that will be arriving shortly.
I have received quite a few PM's and questions if these will be offered for sale, I gave it some thought and when the time comes, they will be offered. Though I am not in the business of running a business these would be bespoke (meaning produced as required) which will make them somewhat expensive. But more on that to follow, in order for me to talk about such things, I must first speak to the moderators about costs and sponsorship.
Well after much prototyping and some rapid prototype orders I have come to the conclusion that the Brake calipers I spec'd for my build will not meet my stringent requirements. So I have decided to to with AP Racing Radial mount 4 pistons up front and the OEM in the back with a larger radius rotor. A redesign on that is forthcoming.
Also trying to re-design the FC Fuel hanger so that the machine operations can be done in two parts rather than four to reduce overall costs. Then that will be off to the rapid prototyping for production as well.
I am also media blasting all the nuts, bolts, and washers so that I can send them for Cad plating and I can start assembly of some of the sub-assemblies like the sub-frames and engine.
Finally I have finished the design work on the Replacement OEM Gauge Cluster that first my speed hut gauges and looks nearly completely OEM. take a look.
Loving this, real above and beyond stuff.
Will it be powder coated or polished?
So I have been busy working on an 1987 Turbo car that was butchered by people who did not know what they were doing electrically or mechanically, and that coupled with my real job is making things move slowly! But alas some progress is being made.
The body shop has finally patched the floor and installed my new torque boxes/floor pan frame rail extensions, and they said fitment was nearly perfect the change will be implemented to the drawings in-case they are needed again. Once that is done all new side panels and roof panels will be installed and finally some paint will be done.
I also bead blasted all of the miscellaneous brackets, nuts, bolts, washers, and screw and sent them out to be Cadmium Di-chromate plated. They came back looking great and should last much longer than the OE nickel plating. Progress is being made on the front and rear brake kits, as well as the suspension has been spec'd out and most parts/pieces ordered. Powder coating of suspension bits will be the next thing on my list once that 87 is re-assembled only waiting on ehxaust tubing right now to build a new downpipe. but for now a couple pictures of the cad plated bits.
Hopefully I’m not overlooking another thread or post but how did the gauge cluster and install go? Those look like it could be a hot seller for people wanting to keep the stock gauge look but have new gauges.
12-30-17, 11:09 AM
