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It seems I spoke too soon. Yesterday on the way home from work it happened again. I've also found that, in general, the car doesn't like to rev over 5000. Im starting to get really stumped here. I pulled out my spark plugs (which are brand new) and my coworkers said they should be fine, but I'll post a picture here for second opinions. I also pulled off my CAS cover and lined up what I believe to be the timing mark on the main pulley, problem is that the pullies on my car aren't the original pullies, when I painted mine forever ago I replaced them and was totally oblivious to timing marks. Are all the timing marks between FCs the same? I've read there are some differences between S4 and S5? Not sure what the new pullies came off of, but it looks like if it is correct I'm only off a few degrees (I attached a few pictures). Today I'm going to try replacing my fuel filter and the strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump, I'm getting a little desperate. On top of all this, I tried cleaning my BAC and replugging it in, but the car starts/idles like the BAC is still unplugged. Could my shot O2 sensor in the header cause anything like this? I also noticed a spare little wire behind the UIM by the clutch slave cylinder, which looks like it grounds to the rear iron on the passenger side, anyone have any clue what that's for wand what problems it could cause, if any?
It seems I spoke too soon. Yesterday on the way home from work it happened again. I've also found that, in general, the car doesn't like to rev over 5000. Im starting to get really stumped here. I pulled out my spark plugs (which are brand new) and my coworkers said they should be fine, but I'll post a picture here for second opinions. I also pulled off my CAS cover and lined up what I believe to be the timing mark on the main pulley, problem is that the pullies on my car aren't the original pullies, when I painted mine forever ago I replaced them and was totally oblivious to timing marks. Are all the timing marks between FCs the same? I've read there are some differences between S4 and S5? Not sure what the new pullies came off of, but it looks like if it is correct I'm only off a few degrees (I attached a few pictures). Today I'm going to try replacing my fuel filter and the strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump, I'm getting a little desperate. On top of all this, I tried cleaning my BAC and replugging it in, but the car starts/idles like the BAC is still unplugged. Could my shot O2 sensor in the header cause anything like this? I also noticed a spare little wire behind the UIM by the clutch slave cylinder, which looks like it grounds to the rear iron on the passenger side, anyone have any clue what that's for wand what problems it could cause, if any?
The pullies are not the same from S4 to S5. Make sure to get the correct pully set and you can use a timing light to lock in timing!
The case is closed for now. When I pulled my fuel filer and fuel pump strainer, both were quite gunked up. After replacing both the car is so far running like a champ. Feels much more peppy and throughout the day I was able to consistently send the car to redline. Who knew gunked up fuel filters could make such a difference! Lets hope it stays that way now...
The case is closed for now. When I pulled my fuel filer and fuel pump strainer, both were quite gunked up. After replacing both the car is so far running like a champ. Feels much more peppy and throughout the day I was able to consistently send the car to redline. Who knew gunked up fuel filters could make such a difference! Lets hope it stays that way now...
Glad to hear that you got it running good. You shold replace the 02 sensor, factory ecu's like them, and it should only be like $20 since its a single wire narrow band.
Just a couple of updates on the car to catch up to the car's soon hibernation. Starting with the bad news, I've been blowing a lot of coolant gaskets due to the coolant system not having any sort of vent to the coolant tank. I got a vented cap base for the thermostat neck, but this has just resulted in a lot of air build up in the cooling system. I got a radiator from Izzy today so I'll be switching over to the double cap S4 setup in hopes that solves my issue. My exhaust also snapped off in front of the mufflers so it's loud as all hell now (
). Now onto the fun stuff. The car got some ISC track coilovers (got them a while back for a killer deal, even though they're a lot stiffer than I would prefer). But when you get past the roughness the car corners like a beast. I also got a bucket seat for myself, a used NRG seat out of a friend's Integra that just needs to be polished up. Not-quite-new seat to hold me in place About a 2" drop from previous ride height My car posed with my coworkers BMW
12/8/20
Over the course of the weekend I stopped down at Izzy's, who hooked me up with a Corksport catback and a Borla resonator. Spent Sunday night fabbing it to fit for the time being, but I plan on getting a racing beat downpipe to replace the precats as well (they're toast). Looks-wise it as greatly improved the appearance of the car, and it sounds so much better. Butt dyno tells me I've picked up some power on the top end as well. Extremely satisfied
After long last I finally have an update again. Rear end assemble is back in the car, and has been aligned.
Swapping the differentials wasn't too much work, mainly consisted of redrilling the PCD and machining a small lip off the back of the flange so the bolt heads could fit. All the bushings in the back have been refreshed while I was in there and I've begun installing my Energy Suspension master kit. Racing beat downpipe Exedy stage 1
The next step was dropping my transmission out to replace the clutch, flywheel, and bearings. Not much to talk about there except that it was a royal pain in the dick. But of course, that just revealed the fact that my entire transmission is failing. Don't care, sending it until it pops. I also got a cat delete pipe from Racing Beat to finish up my exhaust, which essentially wraps up what's going on besides a failing alternator.
DTSS bushings Sway bar bushings courtesy of Energy Suspension
reviving this thread as I have dropped out of college and have the time and money for this car again.
To start, this has evolved into a full-on restoration project. The car has been almost completely gutted so I can address all of the rust. Close up pictures of the rust will be sent soon, but it's not pretty.
I pulled the original engine out of the car and disassembled it, and not much was salvageable. The front and center iron have cracked water jackets, and both rotor housings have pretty bad chrome flaking along the edges. Luckily, a few years back I picked up an S4 NA 13b engine and trans with only 40k on each, so that engine will be torn down soon for an evaluation and rebuild.
My plan is to completely restore the car, removing all traces of rust, refurbish the interior, rebuild the drivetrain components, replace old suspension rubbers, and fix the features the car has had removed/disabled or never worked, like the AC, cruise, and power antenna. And then finally get as fresh coat of paint and some tasteful visual mods.
Brave man. Most of the time when a car is taken apart like that it never gets put back together but it seems like you have the ability and fortitude to follow through with the project so I wish you the best with it! I embarked on a similar thing and I'm almost 2.5 years in but closing in on completion.
Since you decided to drop out of college what are you pursuing for a career?
Brave man. Most of the time when a car is taken apart like that it never gets put back together but it seems like you have the ability and fortitude to follow through with the project so I wish you the best with it! I embarked on a similar thing and I'm almost 2.5 years in but closing in on completion.
Since you decided to drop out of college what are you pursuing for a career?
luckily the mechanic shop I worked at before I went to school took me back, so it’s back to working on cars at work and at home. I put off stripping the car like this for a long time out of fear of burning out and letting it sit, but I’m at the point now that it’s what’s gotta be done if I want the car to last
Cancer pics incoming. Doctor says it's terminal. Thinking my best bet is to pick up a couple gallons of evaporust and 20 gauge sheet metal to replace the front areas near the fenders. Haven't started grinding at the rear frame sections but most of it is solid aside from the area the fuel tank filler mounts to. Pinch welds and frame rails will also need some attention and reinforcement. Going to run and get sheet metal and dry ice for removing the sound deadening sometime this week.
