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Got control arms torqued today, went ahead and hit up some of the rusty spots with a wire brush and sprayed them with some rust reformer. I plan to get the rustproofing of the bottom done once I get anothet daily this fall, hopefully.
Transmission is painted & installed, that thing came out BRIGHT, I put a little detail on it just to snaz it up some more, hahah!
What would happen if I removed the air pump completely? I don't have a cat, so I don't really need it do I?
Also, I have settled my mind on a Chargespeed lip, TII side skirts and G35 mudflaps, I also want to get a non-open diff. I hear that S4 GXL clutch type diffs are drop in replacements as well as the Torsen unit in older MX-5s...
I sense a new thread! Any input viewers?
Bonus photos! I got an old product book from the owner.
If you remove your air pump, you'll lose top end power. You need it to actuate your auxiliary ports unless you make a custom kit with electronic actuators and an RPM switch or a similar variation.
I got most everything installed except my rear calipers, I cant seem to find my guide pin bolts.
Trouble with working in a three bay shop with nearly twenty students.... ugghhhh.
My issue is this though:
My transmission doesn't seem to want to go into fifth gear for sure, and fourth also possibly. I have first, second, third and reverse though, no problem. I've not actually driven the vehicle yet, obviously, but the shifter will NOT go into fifth and I think it may actually be slipping into second instead of fourth on me. I really don't want to find out I have to take it apart and rebuild it...
Also: What is this? I only have one and it was sitting with my driveline stuff.
Oh yeah, my reverse lights are on even when I'm not in gear.
Trans is stuck in reverse happens to n/a way to often .......Don't worry easy fix when you say reverse lights are on in neutral that tells me you have this issue
Well... my computer died on me too, no surprise really it was from 2008. Back to phone updates I suppose then.
I got some washers in behind the alternator pulley to get it properly aligned, worked alright for a while but today it ate it's fourth belt and after installing a new one when testing it out the alternator now gets so hot to the touch it burns in mere moments + I'm only getting around 13 volts at idle now. I'm going to play around with the tension some more tomorrow afterI replace my driver side window regulator & motor if it ever arrives.
The oil cooler plug was leaking so I wrapped some teflon tape around it.
The electrical bugs:
These only seem to happen when it is cold outside but OCCASIONALLY on hard corners, left or right, it seems like my ignition totally cuts out momentarily and then comes right back good as ever.
AND
My logicon will shut off completely, no indicator lights or anything just the blower motor going at a very slow speed putting out ambient air, at the same time as this, every time, my convertible top controls go out with no response at all. This usually only lasts a few minutes when it happens and then both problems fix itself.
I have been doing a little polishing on her lately too on the bright side and it's coming out really well.
Still no luck with the alternator, had it bench tested and it showed good. Tried messing with the bracket alignment and nothing. I noticed that it's not just the alternator but EVERYTHING around the alternator is getting extremely hot.
I now have a coolant leak from the front bottom area of the engine also...
I'm sad to say but I think it may be time for me to let her go, I just can't afford this all.
If anyone has any ideas or info to share or wants to make an offer let me know.
Your car is so pretty, it'd be a shame to give up yet.
You may just have a cluster of individually trivial problems that have ganged up to seem worse than they are.
Your water leak could just be the pump housing gasket/seal or maybe the pump itself.
Dunno about the belt eating issue, you've obviously got alignment issues but I'm not looking at the car.
BTW..any pics of the engine bay...that might be helpful.
As for the weird electrical stuff...go get yourself a nice tub of dielectric grease and start going after every single connector you can get a hold of. Clean 'em, pack 'em with grease and reconnect.
Check all power connectors (like at the engine fusebox) and clean/grease.
Get under the dash and do all of them too.
Fuses, yup, them as well.
You might spend a day but it's not expensive and you'll probably find the problem.
Photos of engine bay as requested:
The area circle in the first photo is also getting very hot as well I'm not sure if this is normal.
I did one last check of alternator tension tonight it didn't seem to help any although the alternator does not seem to warm up as quickly until I put a load on it which leads me to suspect that it may be the bearing after removing the alternator I noticed that the bearing seem to make some noise while spending it by hand I'm taking it to the rebuilders again tomorrow and will not be able to pick it up again until Monday I hope go at once I get the bearing replaced it will solve my problem. While watching the alternator I also noticed that the coolant leak is coming from the bottom of my engine, it looks like it is coming out of a plug on the side of the water pump I hope this is the case maybe it will be easier to simply replace a plug then it will be the whole water pump or should I say cheaper.
My window regulator and motor finally came in depending on what time I get home from work tomorrow I may install that if not tomorrow hopefully Saturday, I also hope to get some polishing done as well its supposed to be clear and in the 80's on Saturday.
On a side note I put an ad on Craigslist for my car its price is a little high and I put a trade offer as well the only response I have gotten so far was for a lifted Jeep Cherokee thanks but no thanks
Do you have a good connection to your battery terminals/main fuse block? Other than bad bearings, (which you now don't have) I can't see why your alternator would be getting that hot.
Oh keep in mind I've only read your last page at this point.
I hope to purchase a water pump and new thermostat here soon and replace those and flush my cooling system, it seems that as I suspected before the heat issue is not being generated by the alternator itself but is actually radiant heat. I confirmed thiz with a very technical touch and feel test. The engine is abnormally hot directly by the thermostat, the bottom of my alternator is hot also and the top although warm is not as warm as the bottom. Very advanced, I know, thank you. Hahahah.
I am really hoping this is the cause of my issue, it's been so boring driving my father's automatic civic sedan.
BLAAAAHHHHHH
Spring is in full swing here finally also and I want to get out and enjoy this beautiful weather!
I got my regulator installed but my window seems sooooo sluggish now, both of them. They both go up at about the same speed but for a brand new motor it seems to be straining an awful lot. I soaked the window glass slide in silicone lube spray and will check it again tomorrow after it dries.
My fuel door popper hardly works at all, is there any type of adjustment I can make on the cable? I tried to trace it through the trunk and body but didn't notice anything...
In a few weeks I'll probably purchase a new 80°C thermostat, waterpump and flush the system. Plan to get some water wetter also.
Then next is the antenna issue, I'm still wanting a sharkfin style one but I hear the reception on those versus the mast type is shaky. Makes sense, anyone have any experience? I may just wind up going with a universal stubby rubber one though to be honest.
Hmmm....things I've done, other than drive, a lot! Hahah Not too much to list here but I'll go ahead anyway:
Polished, clay-barred and waxed all the metal surfaces of the car. Used some Turtle Wax trim restorer on the trim pieces and the vinyl top and it turned out surprisingly well, especially the top, an old pal even asked if I had gotten a new one put on.
Not much else really, I was in between jobs for about three weeks so that zapped my savings towards parts + my alternator started acting up again so I got a refund and am going for a "New" 110 amp out put alternator.
Question: Since I am getting a higher amperage alternator, I should probably get a higher rated fuse too, shouldn't I? Or would that risk damaging other components in the system?
I found a B A D oil leak when I went to change my oil, it was running down all over the place from my oil cooler plug, onto my control arms, sub-frame, transmission, ALL of it!, I wrapped it in some teflon tape and that night my alternator bugged out on my so I have not been able to check if it fixed the leak yet.
Next on my list after the alternator is my power antenna mast and I would like to install a head unit and some speakers that I recently found from one of my old cars. I got a couple 120W Pioneer 4x6" co-axials and a couple 230W 6x9" Pioneer co-axials with a 500W Rockford Fosgate amp. Any tips on stereo install? I need to get over and read that thread on how to upgrade the stereo in the vert and still have the headrest speakers work properly.
I'm terrible at keeping up with things, my bad guys.
So over the past year I have:
Gone through two sets of rear tires
One transmission
Finally got my alternator issue resolved by installing a factory belt
Replaced both transaction switches with brand new OEM units
Replaced my pilot bearing
Botched two pilot bearing seals
Replaced my OPS switch
Removed all the stereo bits from the car, as well as the rear vanity cover
Slid off the road at approx. 60mph, up a hill, spun around backwards then back onto the road and to a stop. (Dark, rainy, wet country road + bald tires and high speed) thrashed my underbody air deflector, kinked my psgr fender, cracked the front fascia and took out a fog lamp assembly.
Now though I'm having another problem, two actually.
1. After installing the transmission from replacement of the pilot bearing and switches I no longer have 1, 3 or 5 gear.
2. After replacing the OPS my gauge reads maxed out, like waaayyyy past 110 PSI.
I'm so frustrated with these stinking transmission problems...
Photos below.
New fancy Spectre Speed intake
New shifter groove bushing
New clutch slave cylinder and Mazdatrix stainless braided clutch line. Great, high quality part and at only $18 I definitely recommend it.
S4 transmission with S5 extension housing and new switches
Who needs tread?
E-shaft damage from pilot bearing replacement #1
E-shaft damage from pilot bearing replacement #2
This bugger wiggled loose and I had to drive 15 miles down the highway in 2nd gear at 55 mph.
03-06-14, 07:47 PM
Progress!
Help!
I think it's time to say good bye...
More photos!!!
