Raisin the HP! s4 t2 build
10-05-14, 12:14 AM
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Raisin the HP! s4 t2 build
My name is Fernando Flores, I got into rotaries about 4 years ago, got my first 1986 mazda rx7 for 600 bucks, started instantly and it was the best of a few I had planned on buying.
Upon destroying many hondas throughout the year of ownership, I decided I was tired of being stomped on by people with boost, so I began searching for a turbo model.
Was hard at first to find such a vehicle that would start with a simple turn of a key, many would flood, many would puff out white smoke, until one day I found one for $4,000 started on the spot and rode smooth in the city and threw fireballs anytime I wanted with it's straight pipe exhaust and intake. The guy was firm on the price and I wasn't making much money at the time so I lowballed him for an appropriate amount of $2,500, quickly he told me no, and if I were to meet him around $3,500 it was mine, but I couldn't do such a thing. . .
Until he found a toyota supra for $3,000 a week later and then called me asking if I would buy his mazda for $3,000. Knowing I had a good shot at getting it where I wanted it to, I told him the most I could do was $2,500 and Boom goes the dynamite I got the car!
He got what he wanted, I got what I wanted, both left with big smiles, and I also scored a leather grey back seat with a FMIC + piping for $300 more.
Upon destroying many hondas throughout the year of ownership, I decided I was tired of being stomped on by people with boost, so I began searching for a turbo model.
Was hard at first to find such a vehicle that would start with a simple turn of a key, many would flood, many would puff out white smoke, until one day I found one for $4,000 started on the spot and rode smooth in the city and threw fireballs anytime I wanted with it's straight pipe exhaust and intake. The guy was firm on the price and I wasn't making much money at the time so I lowballed him for an appropriate amount of $2,500, quickly he told me no, and if I were to meet him around $3,500 it was mine, but I couldn't do such a thing. . .
Until he found a toyota supra for $3,000 a week later and then called me asking if I would buy his mazda for $3,000. Knowing I had a good shot at getting it where I wanted it to, I told him the most I could do was $2,500 and Boom goes the dynamite I got the car!
He got what he wanted, I got what I wanted, both left with big smiles, and I also scored a leather grey back seat with a FMIC + piping for $300 more.
10-05-14, 12:40 AM
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Oh what destruction it caused in the late nights of Idaho, being a factory ECU and only 8lbs of boost with a FCD.
Not saying I beat every car in the world, but I would get people to ask what I had in the car:
Them - "6 cylinder?"
Me - "No, 1.3 rotary"
Them - "And how do you get it up and going so quick"
Me - "Spins continuously, eats alot of gas, lightweight."
Was the main part of the conversation after every night of 'driving' around, I would educate people on the rotary more than anything through the night, and they all seemed respectful of the unique design. . .
But I wanted more, more power, more boost, power hungry really.
Then it happened, a coolant seal failure...
I researched days and nights in order to rebuild my engine the first time, I lost the picture of the seal blown, but was clearly visible showing rust on the surface of the iron and I diagnosed the problem after running extremely hot after a freeway pull and I left it for a day to sit, the I opened the radiator cap, filled to the top, and cranked her on and I saw bubbles come from the waterpump side meaning combustion was getting into the coolant passages, BUT there are pictures of my ricer red engine block so enjoy until my next build! (was more severe
Not saying I beat every car in the world, but I would get people to ask what I had in the car:
Them - "6 cylinder?"
Me - "No, 1.3 rotary"
Them - "And how do you get it up and going so quick"
Me - "Spins continuously, eats alot of gas, lightweight."
Was the main part of the conversation after every night of 'driving' around, I would educate people on the rotary more than anything through the night, and they all seemed respectful of the unique design. . .
But I wanted more, more power, more boost, power hungry really.
Then it happened, a coolant seal failure...
I researched days and nights in order to rebuild my engine the first time, I lost the picture of the seal blown, but was clearly visible showing rust on the surface of the iron and I diagnosed the problem after running extremely hot after a freeway pull and I left it for a day to sit, the I opened the radiator cap, filled to the top, and cranked her on and I saw bubbles come from the waterpump side meaning combustion was getting into the coolant passages, BUT there are pictures of my ricer red engine block so enjoy until my next build! (was more severe
10-05-14, 01:32 AM
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Once the build was complete I installed the following parts.
Atkins water jacket o-rings + front/rear seals + plastic corner plugs
Atkins 2mm apex seals with springs
FD corner springs
Fresh coat of Rust-oleum High Heat silver (housings) Red (Irons)
New mazda OE side seal springs
Hand ported the exhaust and intake ports (only millimeters in expansion)
I kept the rebuild cost down to a minimum of $700 bucks! From everything inside looked good, housings, bearings, corner seals, side seals, Eccentric shaft, Irons, 3 piece apex seals (heard they are a hassle to put back in so I bought new 2 piece seals) oil pump, tension bolts.
After the rebuild was complete it cranks over momentarily after building some oil pressure with the fuel pump fuse pulled and smoked a bit to clear out the vaseline and engine assembly lube. Everything seemed to have worked out just fine with help from a buddy pointing my rotors in the correct way right before I started stacking the motor together.
After months of running the car it was great, boost was responsive, mileage wasn't too bad, around 230 miles to the tank.
I wish I had more pictures from the rebuild 2 years ago, but it was on another phone that crapped out on me, SO onto the next gremlin that plagued me for a year and a half...
Hesitation, now I have read alot of solutions to this, depending on what the condition of the type of hesitation.
It all happened right after I removed the rats nest (emmissions) to show off the super cool color combo I had on my engine, and I wanted to simplify things later down the road.
My problem was right off the bat, tap the throttle gets no smooth response until after 3k rpms, city driving made me look horrible and seem like a noob figuring out how to drive 5 speed! All the stop signs, red lights, slow cruising in parking lots made me buck and sputter like I just got the damn car.
My first guess was at the TPS sensor, which I swapped out and bought 2 other known running ones. Now, what people tried helping me with and I figured wouldn't hurt, was checking EVERYTHING, meaning learning how to use a multi-meter and check for vacuum leaks. Not only did this make me learn useful skills in the long run, but was also very annoying because I would check something, it checks out good, yet the problem still persists, throwing a thought into my head like I couldn't do this correctly, either it's me or the electronics.
I installed a rtek 2.1 into the mazda shortly after getting used to the hesitation, the rtek has features showing certain sensors onto the palm, and the rtek read the TPS sensor at 16/95, I had check voltage before using a Multimeter, ohms was set to spec at 1 ohm or however. So the 2 were not lining up together, I figure it must be a ground somewhere between the ECU and TPS sensor itself because when everything is in spec, the rtek 2.1 reads 20/95.
It was the car, to wrap things up, I looked on aaroncakes webpage and I saw that he mentions the ground off the boost sensor, one of 4 wires that comes out of that wire, but he mentioned this ground more for the NA cars, so I've seen that webpage before and kind of skipped over it since mine was turbo. . . but I was on my last nerve with the hesitation, made me want to swap a whole other motor in.
So I start at the harness, find the ground for the boost sensor, and I start cutting my harness, I initially stopped at the first 'split' of ground wires collectively bound by a crimp which then they spread outwards towards more sensors.
I follow the grounds, they lead me to, more grounds... it was life changing, why on earth did mazda route their 1 ground wire from the ECU to several sensors in order to save money on a 16g wire? Not certain, but anywho, I follow the ground wires split to more and more sensors till finally, behold the TPS sensor, it didn't know any better, it was in the back, getting little ground from what was left of the other fat sensors feeding away and making the TPS read so far off, I was suprised it even let me idle the darn thing. So having the entire engine harness split away, I solder 2 more grounds from 2 different locations of the ground 'splits', one near the boost sensor, and another right underneath the intake manifold. I tape the harness using some pricy 3m electrical tape, plug everything back in, and oh did she rev so freely now... Throttle response was instant, drove like a whole new car, I drove it everywhere, drove so much I broke 3rd gear at our Idaho racetrack, good ol firebird, where they'll allow you to pay to race, it rains, no one runs, and they keep your money!
Atkins water jacket o-rings + front/rear seals + plastic corner plugs
Atkins 2mm apex seals with springs
FD corner springs
Fresh coat of Rust-oleum High Heat silver (housings) Red (Irons)
New mazda OE side seal springs
Hand ported the exhaust and intake ports (only millimeters in expansion)
I kept the rebuild cost down to a minimum of $700 bucks! From everything inside looked good, housings, bearings, corner seals, side seals, Eccentric shaft, Irons, 3 piece apex seals (heard they are a hassle to put back in so I bought new 2 piece seals) oil pump, tension bolts.
After the rebuild was complete it cranks over momentarily after building some oil pressure with the fuel pump fuse pulled and smoked a bit to clear out the vaseline and engine assembly lube. Everything seemed to have worked out just fine with help from a buddy pointing my rotors in the correct way right before I started stacking the motor together.
After months of running the car it was great, boost was responsive, mileage wasn't too bad, around 230 miles to the tank.
I wish I had more pictures from the rebuild 2 years ago, but it was on another phone that crapped out on me, SO onto the next gremlin that plagued me for a year and a half...
Hesitation, now I have read alot of solutions to this, depending on what the condition of the type of hesitation.
It all happened right after I removed the rats nest (emmissions) to show off the super cool color combo I had on my engine, and I wanted to simplify things later down the road.
My problem was right off the bat, tap the throttle gets no smooth response until after 3k rpms, city driving made me look horrible and seem like a noob figuring out how to drive 5 speed! All the stop signs, red lights, slow cruising in parking lots made me buck and sputter like I just got the damn car.
My first guess was at the TPS sensor, which I swapped out and bought 2 other known running ones. Now, what people tried helping me with and I figured wouldn't hurt, was checking EVERYTHING, meaning learning how to use a multi-meter and check for vacuum leaks. Not only did this make me learn useful skills in the long run, but was also very annoying because I would check something, it checks out good, yet the problem still persists, throwing a thought into my head like I couldn't do this correctly, either it's me or the electronics.
I installed a rtek 2.1 into the mazda shortly after getting used to the hesitation, the rtek has features showing certain sensors onto the palm, and the rtek read the TPS sensor at 16/95, I had check voltage before using a Multimeter, ohms was set to spec at 1 ohm or however. So the 2 were not lining up together, I figure it must be a ground somewhere between the ECU and TPS sensor itself because when everything is in spec, the rtek 2.1 reads 20/95.
It was the car, to wrap things up, I looked on aaroncakes webpage and I saw that he mentions the ground off the boost sensor, one of 4 wires that comes out of that wire, but he mentioned this ground more for the NA cars, so I've seen that webpage before and kind of skipped over it since mine was turbo. . . but I was on my last nerve with the hesitation, made me want to swap a whole other motor in.
So I start at the harness, find the ground for the boost sensor, and I start cutting my harness, I initially stopped at the first 'split' of ground wires collectively bound by a crimp which then they spread outwards towards more sensors.
I follow the grounds, they lead me to, more grounds... it was life changing, why on earth did mazda route their 1 ground wire from the ECU to several sensors in order to save money on a 16g wire? Not certain, but anywho, I follow the ground wires split to more and more sensors till finally, behold the TPS sensor, it didn't know any better, it was in the back, getting little ground from what was left of the other fat sensors feeding away and making the TPS read so far off, I was suprised it even let me idle the darn thing. So having the entire engine harness split away, I solder 2 more grounds from 2 different locations of the ground 'splits', one near the boost sensor, and another right underneath the intake manifold. I tape the harness using some pricy 3m electrical tape, plug everything back in, and oh did she rev so freely now... Throttle response was instant, drove like a whole new car, I drove it everywhere, drove so much I broke 3rd gear at our Idaho racetrack, good ol firebird, where they'll allow you to pay to race, it rains, no one runs, and they keep your money!
10-05-14, 01:53 AM
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I deleted my transmission pics because it was my old one and a b2600 transmission, I might do a Frankenstein mash up between them as the b2600 is good, s4 has a 3rd gear busted. I wanted to keep my 1st,2nd,4th,5th gear, and remove the b2600 3rd gear because the trucks transmission is similar, yet the tail shafts do not line up, nor the bell housings, only the internals are somewhat alike, the b2600 has shorter 1st and 5th gear because it's a truck, meant for other reasons than to go faaaast.
But I had to shell out $200 for a used s5 transmission that took 5 1/2 hours to get to in norther Idaho, not a bad deal, I just didn't want to drive so far outwards. Who had the transmission for me? The same gentleman who sold me the car! What a coincidence it was, and it was good to talk to the guy and I told him my sad stories, he told me his, both our cars were not as great as we thought, his ended up being a totalled one because upon his quest to straighten out the paint and dings, his shell had been rolled previously and he found pounds and pounds underneath the paint of his supra eventually ending up in the scrap yard, but he did have a solid motor out of it that he was proud of.
Onto the transmission, installed, shifted great, bought amsoil to relieve the stress of my constant poundage of moving the shifter into different gears violently. And slowly I realized I was smoking at idle more and more throughout the change of transmissions, I believe my performance at the racetrack not only grind away my 3rd gear, it also pushed my turbo to the limit and I inspected with my hand and it had a couple millimeters of shaft play in and out of the turbo, saw oil seepage coming from the couplers and piping. So onto the upgrade!
But I had to shell out $200 for a used s5 transmission that took 5 1/2 hours to get to in norther Idaho, not a bad deal, I just didn't want to drive so far outwards. Who had the transmission for me? The same gentleman who sold me the car! What a coincidence it was, and it was good to talk to the guy and I told him my sad stories, he told me his, both our cars were not as great as we thought, his ended up being a totalled one because upon his quest to straighten out the paint and dings, his shell had been rolled previously and he found pounds and pounds underneath the paint of his supra eventually ending up in the scrap yard, but he did have a solid motor out of it that he was proud of.
Onto the transmission, installed, shifted great, bought amsoil to relieve the stress of my constant poundage of moving the shifter into different gears violently. And slowly I realized I was smoking at idle more and more throughout the change of transmissions, I believe my performance at the racetrack not only grind away my 3rd gear, it also pushed my turbo to the limit and I inspected with my hand and it had a couple millimeters of shaft play in and out of the turbo, saw oil seepage coming from the couplers and piping. So onto the upgrade!
10-05-14, 12:30 PM
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I got a t4 vband 60-1 turbo, probly a knock off from ebay I bought from my buddy for $70 bucks, but it spools great and holds boost, with zero shaft play so I will keep using this till I probly get a borg warner s400 that the same guy that sold me the b2600 transmission if I go standalone (haltech sounds great) with E85 next spring, me switching this year would be worry-some because I heard many things about E85 in the freezing cold.
But I'm getting ahead of myself, at the moment, got the 60-1 turbo with an ebay t4 turbo manifold modified to support the original crap welds together.
I also broke my center iron yesterday, so now I need a replacement. It broke as I was cleaning the water jackets with a pick and hook and I have been told they get brittle overtime and with enough pressure they'll come right off, and that's what happened to me.
So I added some cold weld JB stuff onto it, got the marine type because all it sees is coolant, and the thing is I'm not certain it would hold, I am thinking of just getting another used one because I want this build to be reliable as I can get it.
Plus it had a couple dings in it so I don't want to second guess myself again.
Yes I have the motor apart again, but I'll get more pictures tomarrow morning showing most of what I have done to the car prior of the 2nd rebuild. Stay tuned.
But I'm getting ahead of myself, at the moment, got the 60-1 turbo with an ebay t4 turbo manifold modified to support the original crap welds together.
I also broke my center iron yesterday, so now I need a replacement. It broke as I was cleaning the water jackets with a pick and hook and I have been told they get brittle overtime and with enough pressure they'll come right off, and that's what happened to me.
So I added some cold weld JB stuff onto it, got the marine type because all it sees is coolant, and the thing is I'm not certain it would hold, I am thinking of just getting another used one because I want this build to be reliable as I can get it.
Plus it had a couple dings in it so I don't want to second guess myself again.
Yes I have the motor apart again, but I'll get more pictures tomarrow morning showing most of what I have done to the car prior of the 2nd rebuild. Stay tuned.
10-05-14, 12:33 PM
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The evidence is right there! I cannot believe I didn't see the crack before, right next to the dings is the water jacket about to give out. 
And to all who think those dings are too severe to use again I agree, I just had a thought of getting away with it.
And to all who think those dings are too severe to use again I agree, I just had a thought of getting away with it.
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10-21-14, 01:46 PM
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I'll go ahead onto my 2nd rebuild info, popped my 2mm apex seals at firebird and I bought some Goopy apex seals, and solid corner seals from atkins rotary.
Also got my hands on front/rear FD stationary gears, with the extra oil flow to the bearings.
Rx8 tension bolts, added strength and the circular molding in the center to prevent them shattering under lots of boost/hp? Just added security.
Oil pressure mod, as followed from arroncake.net, 2 m5 washers adding below the rear oil regulator, 15-20 lbs of oil pressure throughout the engine added.
RC low imp 1000cc secondary injectors (Already had on before she blew) Work great
Also got my hands on front/rear FD stationary gears, with the extra oil flow to the bearings.
Rx8 tension bolts, added strength and the circular molding in the center to prevent them shattering under lots of boost/hp? Just added security.
Oil pressure mod, as followed from arroncake.net, 2 m5 washers adding below the rear oil regulator, 15-20 lbs of oil pressure throughout the engine added.
RC low imp 1000cc secondary injectors (Already had on before she blew) Work great
10-21-14, 01:55 PM
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Welded the iron and peened it, took off that epoxy crap easily with a screwdriver.
Added 4 more factory dowel pins inside the motor, close to the combustion side of the motor where it sees more stress.
Used a 39/64 drill bit, and then a 16mm reamer to smoothen everything to stack upon itself.
Also tried reconditoning the rotor housings, seemed to have come out great using my die grinder and sand paper cartridges. Much smoother than before.
Also did the water jacket modification in the upper post, went a little deeper than in those pics so it should help somewhat.
Added 4 more factory dowel pins inside the motor, close to the combustion side of the motor where it sees more stress.
Used a 39/64 drill bit, and then a 16mm reamer to smoothen everything to stack upon itself.
Also tried reconditoning the rotor housings, seemed to have come out great using my die grinder and sand paper cartridges. Much smoother than before.
Also did the water jacket modification in the upper post, went a little deeper than in those pics so it should help somewhat.
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