i just ran the new relocated cable to the starter and left everything else, dual batteries rule!

Could you post of pic of how you ran that relocation? I just want to see it.
Thanks.

I haven't actually done any more work on the battery yet, been too cold out and I still need to unload the hatch of parts first. Right now, the hatch has the resonator (previously called the ghetto cat) and ghetto downpipe (made by the previous owner). Luckily, the Cosmo downpipe exits VERY close to where the S4 NA manifold came out, so the ghetto downpipe should line up rather well.

Anyway, I'm in need of another engine mount before I can proceed on the rest. When dropping the engine back in a couple weeks ago, I tore the last original mount in half. Right now, it's sitting on the one I got from 87-t66, and the nub remnant of the torn one. Once that's resolved and the exhaust on, I can take it off of jack stands, finish up the wiring and so on. As for today, just waiting on my paycheck to arrive in the mail so I can hot-foot it to Jegs to get the last adapter fitting needed on the car.

When I bought the engine in the spring, it didn't include the turbos so I found two sets elsewhere. That left me with missing part of the oil supply line, the one that connects to the block via a 14x1.5 banjo bolt and on the other end, another m14x1.5 fitting. The block fitting is a cinch to solve, but the turbos' hardline had me stumped.

After searching till my eyes bled, I finally found a solution thanks to our fellow twin turbo enthusiasts in the Mitsubishi pond here: http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/metric-...-thead-404346/

Earl's makes a Female M14x1.5 to Male AN6 adapter. And thanks to the previous google session for the oil pressure problem,I found that Jegs also carries M14x1.5 banjo bolts and the proper fittings with...you guessed it...AN6 fittings on the neck. But I found an even better solution for much less: A M14x1.5 male to AN06 male adapter

Hardline M14x1.5 to AN6 adapter fitting, Part# ERL-9894DBH, $11.99
Block M14x1.5 to AN6 adapter fitting, Part# 361-991954, $6.99
5ft of Jegs Push-Loc AN06 hose in red, Part# 555-102110, $12.99
Jegs Push-loc AN06 straight fitting, Part# 555-100051 $3.99
Jegs Push-loc AN06 90 degree fitting, Part# 555-100071 $9.99

On a side note, the block to AN6 adapter is a common GM part used on TBI engines. Russel part#799-670520 is the same thing, but a couple bucks cheaper. Total cost: $46 to convert a bastard line to AN

And who said converting to AN lines had to be expensive?:lol:

I read something about people using FD water pumps and drilling a new hole... something like that.

my engine had both holes drilled, so to fit the FC pump, all i had to do was move it. mine was an early engine though

Mine was a bolt-on fit for a FC water pump. It's a Pre-A code though, and the extra stud is going to be re-used as a binding point for the P-clip that'll keep the turbo coolant lines out of the alternator belt's way.

On a side note, I'd like to mention that I received my new stereo yesterday afternoon. Logan at Defined Autoworks had ordered it for me from Sonic Electronix after mine was stolen while the car was at the shop. Also, he's giving me a complete 20b Cosmo OMP system, from pump to injectors in place of the stereo trim. This'll save me a TON of time and work carving out a blockoff plate and trying to adapt a S4NA one in the spring. And since he had it on hand, that'll save him the time/money/effort to find the trim, so everyone wins.:nod:

All things considered, Logan's a pretty cool guy and if you were negatively swayed by my business feedback thread here, you really should give him another look. Honestly, how many businesses would make you whole like this? Logan, you've definitely earned me back as a customer.

Since it was a whole ONE DEGREE when I woke up this morning, I'm probably not gonna be any outside work on the car today. So while bumbling around the 20b section, I found some AMAZING info, courtesy of Arghx and DRHM. All pictures are copyright of their respective owners

Here we have Exhibit 1 from Arghx, Compressor Maps for the 20B-REW Cosmo Twin Turbos:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1291928298

Here's Exhibit 2 from Arghx, a Dyno Graph showing Torque vs Boost Pressure vs RPM for the 20B-REW with its twins, a Twin-Scroll S4T2-style single turbo and running N/A
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1291929001

And for Exhibit 3, from DRHM, a 20B-REW Cosmo Dyno run with pod filters, upgraded intercooler, exhaust, a chipped NF01 ECU running 12psi and retaining the Automatic Transmission. He really shows how impressive the 20B and its twin turbos can be, with only basic stuff.
http://www.dmrh.com.au/web/jces100190bch.jpg

I've requested that Evil Aviator compile these into a single 20B-REW FAQ thread, including a link here, for all that want to use the twins. It's really good info for anyone wanting to approach the twins the right way.

Today was a minor wiring day, but will be major progress in the long run. Anyone converting over to a haltech in their FC should take special note as this is how you keep things like your gauges and wipers working correctly. I did this the correct way, by de-pinning the connector with pocket knife tweezers and tagging the pins with where they came from for the next owner's convenience.

In the emissions harness, there are two connectors, FEM-01 and FEM-02, that connect to the front harness. They're both orange on the S4 and will be the ones to pay attention to. FEM-01 contains the wiper/washer, subzero motor and cruise control actuator wiring.

in FEM-01, here is what you want to keep
Windshield Wipers/Washer: Blue, Blue/red, blue/yellow, blue/white, Black (under locking tab) (Black six-pin rectangle connector with five pins filled)
Cruise Control Actuator: Green, green/white, green/yellow, green/black (Square white connector)
Subzero Motor (optional) black/red and black/red (white T-shape connector like the S4 Alternator)

De-pin the White/Black and Black/White wires, tag them and you're done there.

As for the gauges, the only one that runs through the FEM-02 connector is the Coolant Temperature Gauge Unit sender (rear iron temp sender). Oil Pressure is in the Engine Harness (not the Emission Harness), Volt Meter is part of the Front Harness and the Fuel Gauge is in the Rear Harness. On a stock S4, the Tachometer is fed by the Trailing coil, but I'm delegating it to the Haltech for simplicity. All of the warning lights are part of the Meter Harness and will work like stock as well.

In the FEM-02 connector, The Coolant Gauge Unit Sender is the Yellow/White wire on the end in the upper row. It's opposite the red/black wire and above the brown/yellow wire.

The rest of FEM-02 are items being replaced by the Haltech (Ignition/Injectors), Being bypassed (Inhibitor switch, Clutch Switch) or being eliminated entirely (Emissions Solenoids/Valves/etc)

Rather than de-pin the rest of the connector and fillet the harness further to extract a single wire and bullet connector (which had broken off at the pin on FEM-02), what I did was get another matching connector. Last time I hit the local PicknPull to get injector connectors, I spied an early 90s Geo Tracker that had the radio missing. The connector looked like one of our logicon connectors, so I cut it off with a couple inches of wire.

Lo and behold, it's IDENTICAL to the FEM-02 connector on the Emission Harness and has pins in every single opening.:nod: If you'd like to get a new one, it is Scosche part#IM01RB and is one of the few harnesses that Sonic Electronix doesn't seem to stock. For the lame-os at Best Buy, tell them you have a 1990 Geo Tracker and someone butchered the stereo wiring.:lol:

Also, I'd like to announce another discovery. In the Emission Harness, the two ECU connectors are branded AMP (made by Tyco Electronics). Haven't found the exact part numbers, but I will look carefully at them if someone would like to know.

we found that many moons ago. at the time you had to buy like 1000 at a time, so um we've got a few, somewhere....

it IS nice when you can make a nice plug in harness

Thanks to Logan at Defined Autoworks, I got another engine mount, 20b OMP (with pigtail and connectors!) and FD Coolant Temperature Gauge sender. One of the lines is broken on the OMP, but I should be able to swap over one of the S4's lines to make it work.

Major props to Logan for helping me out on the engine mount and gauge sender. You REALLY saved me there, especially from trying to pull one from a junkyard miata in the snow. That was worth the $15 alone. And for the engine mount, I couldn't find another stock one anywhere nearby other than the stealerships, so mad props there.

If someone's looking for a FC part and can't seem to find it, send a PM to GTORX7. (with the period). If he doesn't have one, he probably knows someone that does.

Now that it's dark and cold enough outside, time to go put in the new mount:lol:

i see you started the swap on the 12th day as well lol. nice and dark. lol just like a 18 year kid on christmas eve.
kid "mom, i want the big present"
mom "no son"
kid "damn it mom! i know its a 20b!! stop fucking with me!!!"
mom "its not a 20b i swear!"
kid "hurry up and go to sleep"

4 hours later...

mom "what the fuck is that noise!!! that shits loud!!"
mom walks out into the garage...
kid "see mom i told you it was a fuckin 20b!! ohh...... yeeaaahhhh!!! SLIDE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... FUCK I NEEDED NEW TIRES.."
kid then says in his head.... im taking them off of her car once she goes back to bed! muahahaha...


i have no idea where that just came from. its 330 in the morning, nothing to do. and im not as lucky as you to get a 20b.. sry for bein a page whore lol good luck man

Hit a MAJOR snag today with the primary injectors. O'reily Auto Parts is trying to get me the following:

NF02-13-257A: Seal, Injector (according to some macedonian site, of all places lol)

These are the bastard grommets that fit the uppermost lip on the 13B-RE and 20B-REW Primary injector holes. After dealing with them, I decided to call a bunch of dealers up on the west coast as it was past 6pm here (Malloy Mazda's parts department was already closed), hoping that one could find them. No such luck though. One dealer in Laguna Beach, CA tried telling me there's no such thing as a 1990 Cosmo:lol: All the rest, save for one, had no clue what it went to either. And the one that recognized it is in....

ALASKA!!!!

Yes, Continental Mazda of Anchorage, Alaska was the only dealer on the west coast that said it was for a 20b Cosmo. The downside is that he said they were out of production and suggested I grab them on yahoo auctions japan (where I've found them before). Too bad I didn't ask him if he could see Russia from his house :rlaugh:

So after getting nowhere today, I called up Mazdatrix and found they're on backorder with a minimum 30-day lead time. That's the exact same thing they told me about the turbo gaskets too.

Oreily's asked me to come in tomorrow to doublecheck the fax they're supposed to receive from Mazda, so they order the right parts this time. And if it does end up being the right one, we'll have a new source for the apparently out-of-production injector seals. If they are the right parts, can someone say stockpile? lol

And if not, which is probably more likely to happen, I've got one final, distant hope...

I sent an email to Jay Leno's Garage via NBC Studios. As you may know, he has a L10B Cosmo and needed a new windshield a few years ago. Someone in the rotary community sent him the windshield from their own Cosmo so he could get three more made. While shipping the original back, it was broken so Jay sent the owner one of the brand new ones. I know it's a longshot, well more of a no-way-in-hell-shot, but in the chance as infinitesimal as it could be that Jay Leno does see that email and responds, we just might see reproduction parts like these. After all, he owes the rotary community a debt of gratitude and what better way to say thank you than to give back to the community with stuff that was discontinued.

Well, O'reilys never received a fax from Mazda, so I called around trying to find the seals (NF02-13-257A). First off was Mazdatrix, who explained it'd be a minimum 30 day wait (said the same thing about the 20B turbo gaskets). Mazdaspeed said the same thing, quoted me the racer's price of $3.10 each, but refused to get them since I'm not a member even though it's a normal replacement part:scratch:. When I asked him why, he said to contact the legal department. So after that spat, I gave Mazda corporate a call. The person I spoke to was helpful, and said that what the Mazdaspeed guy told me made no sense at all, and suggested we put together a group buy.

In the meantime, Logan at Defined Autoworks suggested using the FD Injector Seals (N3A1-13-257) and said the FD center iron's injector ports are machined the same as a Cosmo one. Since the Cosmo uses two seals per port in the primaries with one in the secondaries and the FD is the exact opposite, I'm a tad skeptical about how well it'd work. I'll know for certain on monday when those arrive at Oreilys though.

I've called up several dealers. D. Dahle Mazda in Salt Lake City, Malloy Mazda and Byers Mazda in Columbus, OH are all going to be calling up Mazda this Monday to help us get these parts. Even though it's a small part, after hearing how Mazdaspeed refused to deal with us, the need for these parts has apparently convinced them to help us out.

While I talked with Ray Crowe, I found out that he has a 20B now, so it must have struck home. Plus, he agreed that the guys at Mazdaspeed are pretty douchey and don't seem to want to make money like a real business.

Anyway, what I'd like to ask anyone seeing this thread is to do the community a favor Call up your local dealer and ask for this part by the part number. If they ask for a VIN, give them my donor car's one, JCESE-100352 (1990 Cosmo 20B Type E-CCS). If Mazda is getting called repeatedly for the same exact part number, we just might get a shipment of them specially made and NOT have to deal with the pricks at Mazdaspeed.

If you can help, please post here what dealer you called and what they said about it. Here's what I've done so far:

Continental Mazda in Anchorage, AK: Knew what they were for, but couldn't get them (said they were out of production)
Phillips Mazda in Laguna Hills, CA: Said there's no such thing as a 1990 Cosmo :rlaugh:
Cutter Mazda in Honolulu, HI: No idea what they were and couldn't get them.
D. Dahle Mazda in Salt Lake City: Now knows what they're for and wants to help us get them. they called Mazda today but they apparently left early so they're getting called up again on Monday
Malloy Mazda: Ray Crowe's always wanting to help us out, so he's in too.
Byers Mazda in Columbus, OH: Spoke to Kurt there, he's calling Mazda on Monday as well.

time for ebay my friend..

well i just looked and im sure you have.... couldnt find anything on ebay... just apex seals. but ill try to farther the research in the morning lol. hope i can find at least onething you need. i really wanna see more of this project.

Did some work on the car a couple days ago. Radiator is roughly in place, taurus fan trimmed down 1/4" and oil cooler is temporarily mounted on the front side of the stock mounts but one hole down for the time being.

Now, this post is to sum up the costs of going 20b in a FC. All parts are used, except for the Haltech and doesn't include shipping costs for the engine & transmission since that would vary depending on the buyer's location. It's not a complete list, but should put things in perspective about the REAL cost of a 20b.

Engine: $2800 (shipping was $400, not counted in this)
S5T2 Transmission: $60 ($60 to ship it, not counted for this)
Mazdatrix T2 to NA Driveshaft, 500 miles on it: $200 local
Pair of 20b Turbos with manifold: $100 shipped
Pair of Non-sequential 20b Turbos w/manifold & Cosmo downpipe: $65 shipped
T2 Starter: Free, Traded for N326 ECU
Haltech Platinum Sport 2000: $1750
Taurus Fan, wiring and relays: $25
ACT Prolite Flywheel & FD Clutch: $80 shipped on ebay
20B Engine Mounts: $14 worth of flat iron
Fuel Pump: Free, from my friend's dad's FD when he upgraded to a Supra one
Battery Relocation parts: $34
Various terminals and connectors for Haltech wiring: Free or already on hand
Total: $7603 ($400 under budget!)

Now for the other stuff that wasn't necessary, but should be done when going 20b.
Pair of used FC engine mounts: $20 (mine tore when pulling the 13b out)
Set of KYB AGX/Ground Control Coilovers: $500 shipped (FD wheels/tires scrubbed the fenders with the stock ones)
Split tube wire loom: $15 at Harbor Freight (Organization=WIN)
Vacuum/Boost Gauge: $22 at Harbor Freight
Total: $557

The following items normally come with a 20b when purchased from a reputable seller like Japan2LA or FDNewbie. My engine didn't have them though.
AN06 Oil Supply Line & Adapters for turbos: $50 at Jegs (my engine didn't have this one). Also included with this is an AN06 Male-Female adapter with 1/8" NPT pressure port on the side, a 1/8" NPT Tee fitting and plug. Seemed like a good way to remedy the broken-off sender in the rear iron, and have an oil pressure test port for diagnostic purposes. What I'm using is Jegs Push-Loc hose and fittings because they were the least expensive, super easy to make a custom length and both the fittings and hose are reusable (a GODSEND for prototyping new projects).
20b OMP: Free, thanks to Logan at Defined Autoworks (again, wasn't included with the engine)
Water pump: Free, s5 one on trade for my S4 one
Secondary Injectors: $50 for two clean/flow-tested S4T2 tan top injectors (temporarily using a S4NA one for the third one, will stay under 3k till I can swap it)
Turbo Control Solenoids: Haven't purchased them yet, but I'll be using GM Wastegate solenoids (for 1989 Turbo Trans Am) combined with the Haltech to have an easy to understand and simple control system using readily available parts that can be purchased anywhere. Schematics are in the Haltech section. Cost will be added when I get it done.
Total: $100

These are the user-specific items that will vary depending on how you go about a 20b conversion.
Radiator and brackets: Recycled S4 ones, brackets modified to be vertically mounted
Radiator Hoses: Gates Green Stripe Universal ones. (haven't purchased yet, will update with cost and part numbers/lengths)
Turbo Coolant lines: $8 for 6 feet of fuel injection hose, plenty to plumb them to the AT oil cooler to pre-cool it and take some of the load off of the radiator (thanks StevenSimon for the idea)

And last but not least, tools that will earn their weight in gold. Not included is the engine crane, Jack or Jack Stands as those are obvious.
Oil Pressure Test Gauge: $20 at Harbor Freight and had all the adapter fittings you could ever ask for, including a 28-BPST to 1/8" NPT and several metric to 1/8" NPT ones including M8x1.0, M16x1.5 and M18x1.5. The M8 one was how I figured out what the flywheel needed:lol: Like I said before, you buy it for the fittings, the gauge itself is a bonus
Rotary Tool: $20 at Big Lots 5-6 years ago
Diamond Bit set: $8 at Harbor Freight. Need I go on? lol
Total: $48

Right on dude. Hell yeah for stickin to the "oh minimum of $30,000 for a 20B"-guys.
Got a question for you, you've got PM.

-J

You have to understand how mazda works to see why you are getting the result you are.

Any parts for the cosmo are NOT stock replacement parts in the USA, as the car was never sold here. I can check later this week but it's very likely the part number also does not work in the dealership computer, as it's not a stock part for anything sold here.

The legal issue, would be that they are supplying parts for a car that isn't certified to be here, or something. It's silly since they stock the parts but that's the way it is

There is a way for the dealership to call the parts help people, with the cosmo's vin and order stock parts for it. Or you could sign up for the mazdacomp program, since the competition program conflicts with the dealerships, they can't just sell to anyone anymore.

Or you could buy from mazdatrix...

j9fd3s, I have reason to believe that you might not be right about parts being certified for the USA. For example, the CC4A Mitsubishi Mirage Super R wasn't sold here either, but you can order the rear floorpan through Ricartparts.com for around $270 (Part number MR208886). For those not familiar, the Super R is the hatchback sibling to the Evolution I-III, based on the same CA-CExA framework, so they share a LOT of parts. You can swap ANY mechanical part from any car in the Mirage/Lancer family with another one, including the american versions. Body panels for the Mirage/Lancer aren't shared with any other car in the Mitsubishi stable either. Plus, the rear floorpan is specific to the drivetrain application also. FWD ones use MR205885, while 4wd ones use MR208886. In conclusion, this is why I believe that dealers CAN get Japan-spec parts regardless of their location. To quote Ray Crowe ,"Mazdaspeed is just a bunch of douches."

Anyway, I'd like to hear more about the dealer calling parts help people with the vin like you suggested. It could really be a big help to anyone that has a not-so-american car and needs to get parts for it.

On a related note, I have a bit of humble pie to eat. The FD Injector seals came in today and they're a perfect fit for the 20B's injectors and injector ports, exactly like Logan said they were. So for anyone needing to find a substitute for NF02-13-257A, you can use N3A1-13-257 instead. They were $6 each.

re read what i wrote. MAZDA USA will not sell non us market parts, except thru mazda comp, or the DAG (dealer assistance group).

in theory there isn't a law about importing non us parts, except that when the non us part ends up on a us market car and it no longer conforms to either safety or emissions standards.

so just because mazda usa won't do it, doesn't mean you or ricerparts.com can't do it.

although as you've noticed, they don't

Tha beging is so fucn funny ping ping ping likea pin ball game haha

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dooKpdIwwR4&sns=em

Pricing seems awesome and makes me think of going 20b esp if i could keep it under 10k but i am wondering...Would you want to rebuild the 20b before you drop it in so you might not have to do it later on...if im wrong and this motors are different lmk because im not too familiar with the 20b reliability

Generally speaking, it's best to plan for a rebuild before swapping it in, but the previous owner of my 20b, Cosmo105, took really good care of it and was really upfront about it as far as I could tell. The only issue I had was the oil pressure sender being broken off in the rear iron. Not critical, but I would have appreciated knowing though. As for reliability, I see no reason that it wouldn't be as reliable or moreso than a S5 13B Turbo, especially at higher HP numbers. More displacement means the engine doesn't have to work as hard to get the same amount of power.

Since mine was in really good shape, I decided to forego a rebuild in order to keep it as close to original as possible. For the 'cool' factor, my car's theme is of a hidden prototype, stashed away by Mazda in 1988 like its sibling, the 20B GTUS Prototype (also a Series 4). I've always been into the r&d variants since I first watched Mobile Suit Gundam and saw all the different variations of the RX-78 Gundam and MS-05/MS-06 Zaku, including their prototypes and test models. In my mind, seeing something go from an idea to a working model is one of the coolest things ever. Seeing it progress in stages gives you an idea of what the creators were thinking, what issues they faced and how they figured out solutions to them.

Now, back to the build:
Yesterday morning, I figured out why the haltech wasn't connecting. It wasn't a software issue, nor wiring, nor the USB cable. It was the power source. What I was using is one of those wall adapters that let you use a cigarette lighter accessory inside. Here's a pic of it: http://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img/item...9986353_tp.jpg

Bought it at Big Lots a few years ago for a LED Gauge Cluster project that stalled out. While it puts out enough juice to power the haltech, powering the relays is what buggered everything up since the voltage dropped to 6.6 volts at the harness. So I took out the fuel pump, injector and ignition coil relays and it perked up to 6.8 volts and instantly connected to the ECU Manager software, which I had recently upgraded to V1.08 per Claudio's recommendation. The USB cable is one of those 90s iMac transparent blue ones where you can see the silver shielding.

So, lesson learned and we now know the minimum voltage needed to wake up the Haltech: 6.8 volts. So if your red status LED is stuck on, CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE

But one good thing did come from all this: Now we all know that a Haltech will boot up no matter how low you run the car's battery. And if it STILL won't boot, you're a much more talented fool than I:lol:.

And now I need to obtain a proper 12v indoor power supply. First thing that came to mind was from my teenage R/C car days: http://www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap0250.html. But with a pricetag of $75, the added bonus of 5v test ports doesn't justify the cost. So I talked to my buddy Cori again and he told me to use a spare ATX power supply. So I present thee with the gift of information
http://www.helpwithpcs.com/courses/p...su-pinouts.gif

Now I'm glad I kept the power supply from that desktop I stripped years ago. It's only 200 watts, but that's plenty. 200 watts at 12 volts is approximately 16.7 amps (thank you Electrical Wiring app for Android!)

I can fab together a box for it to go in, add a power switch & LED salvaged from another computer case, then get some wire grommets and give it proper terminals for 12v, 5v and 3.3vdc as well as a USB port to charge my phone and the haltech-specific connectors, all in one tidy, readily-available and FREE package. Might add some LEDs for the individual circuits later on, to indicate they're under load.

Update time

Looks like the old computer power supply had vanished somewhere, so I got an old AT one from my buddy Matt. Took it apart, rewired it with ring terminals and tested it. 12v rail put out 5v and the 5v rail was down to 2.6v so it's no good to me. Might be good for testing sensors, so whoever wants it can have it. Add some Binding Post terminals such as Radio Shack part#274-661 and you're all set. They're rated for 10a@125VAC, but it should be fine for the amount of current at 12 volts.

So as soon as the mail comes, I'll be off to see the wizard, the wonderful wizard of Micro Center for a new ATX power supply for $10. This one's gonna be entirely self-contained with the binding posts mounted on the case itself. Since I'm not too sure about the insulation quality of the posts I got (the radio shack ones), the case is getting some dremel attention and a plastic panel recycled from a blank household wallplate.

For the sake of convenience, it'll have eight posts total, two 12v+, a 5v+, a 3.3v+ and grounds for each one. Sure, I could skimp and only have one ground post, but it'd defeat the purpose of being able to test several things simultaneously. In addition to this, I'll be adding a salvaged USB header for cell phone charging. A haltech-specific pigtail might come later too.

Now, back to the 20B:
Since I'm mounting the oil cooler a couple inches forward of where it originally was (front side of the OE mounts), that made the rear iron to cooler line too short. In the stock spot, it just barely cleared anyway. So I gotta bite the bullet and convert it to AN10. Thankfully, since I flipped the oil cooler upside-down to mount it on the front of the mounts, the lines will have to be swapped which will put the shorter front line near the frame rail. Normally, you'd have to get the special adapter from Mazdatrix because it's so close that a normal 90 degree adapter won't fit. But since that spot will be using the original banjo bolt, I can save $30 and just get a regular M18x1.5 to AN10 adapter at Jegs for $17.99. Using an08 would be $10 less for the adapters, but the smaller hose's decreased flow isn't worth the risk to save $1 per hose end and $1 per 5ft section of hose.

Here's what I intend to do:
Earl's #361-9919FFK: M18x1.5 to AN10 adapter: $17.99 (x2)
JEGS Performance Products #555-100073: 90 degree Push-Loc AN10 hose end: $14.99 (x2)
JEGS Performance Products #555-102130: 5ft of Red Push-Loc AN10 hose: $15.99
Total: $81.95

If anyone has some suggestions, I'm all ears

Im lost. What exactly are you trying to make? Im just not understanding something...

It's an indoor power supply to power any 12v or 5v device. Will be very useful for doing electrical work outside of the car, such as loading maps onto a haltech, doing work on FD clusters, testing and calibrating sensors, etc.

The problem I had when using one of those car to household adapters was not enough current. Those universal AC-DC adapters have the same issue since they often can only put out 300-600ma. While it would boot up a haltech, there'd be all sorts of issues with trying to get it to connect as I did.

A pc power supply will easily solve that issue, and I can put in application-specific connectors too. Stuff like a Haltech could be booted up inside, have the map loaded. Plus, atx power supplies are common, cheap and you can always get a better one if you need more power. For my purposes, 300 watts should be plenty. That equals 25 amps at 12v and 60 amps at 5 volts (Amps=Watts/Voltage). Except for maybe a stereo, 25 amps of current is gonna be OVERKILL for any electrical project. And yes, each circuit will have its own 20 amp fuse, to protect both the connected device and power supply from working too hard. As we all know, running a power source at it's limit makes it poop out fast. With a 20 amp fuse on each circuit, it can't go over 80% on the 12v circuit and 33% on the 5v one.

Over the past few days, myself and ObliqueFD have been figuring out all the ins and outs of the turbo control system while working on his black FD

So to clear up any and ALL confusion on how the system works, here's a breakdown of the valves and actuators with locations and functions.

Exhaust/Turbine side

Turbo Pre-Control Actuator: Mounted on Turbos, covers approx 33% of rear turbo exhaust inlet opening. Is a linear actuator
Function: Opens first at approx. 3000rpm (FD figure). Allows pre-spooling of Rear Turbo. Controlled by Pre-Control Solenoid

Turbo Control Actuator: Mounted on Exhaust Manifold, covers approx 66% of rear turbo exhaust inlet opening. Is a linear actuator
Function: Opens second at approx. 3500rpm (FD figure). Controls exhaust flow between front and rear turbos. When stock, is controlled by TWO Turbo Control Solenoids, one for vacuum and one for boost. TC Boost is connected to the Y-pipe after the merge. TC Vacuum is the whole reason why there's a vacuum chamber, to maintain a constant source of vacuum when the intake is under boost.

Wastegate Actuator: Mounted on Turbos, is a linear actuator.
Function: Opens last, regulates total boost pressure, factory set at 10psi. Controlled by Wastegate Solenoid.

Intake/Compressor Side

Charge Control Valve: Mounted inside Compressor Y-pipe assembly before merge, is a butterfly valve.
Function: Closes off rear turbo leg of Y-pipe to prevent backspooling by front turbo. Controlled by Charge Control Actuator

Charge Control Actuator: Mounted on Y-pipe Assembly before merge, is a linear actuator.
Function. Opens Charge Control Valve at 3500rpm (FD figure) so both turbos are providing boost. Controlled by Charge Control Solenoid

Charge Relief Valve: Mounted on Compressor Y-pipe between rear compressor outlet and Charge Control Valve
Function: Allows Rear Turbo to pre-spool, bypassing the Charge Control Valve to deliver the rear turbo's air to the Y-pipe. Controlled by Charge Relief Solenoid.

Air Bypass Valve: Mounted on Y-pipe after merge.
Function: Blowoff Valve, vents boost pressure back to air filter when vacuum is detected in UIM (when you let off the throttle). Controlled by Vacuum from UIM.

So in completely stock form, the FD and Cosmo require 6 solenoids to control the turbos properly. On the exhaust side: Precontrol, Turbo Control (Vacuum & Boost), Wastegate. And on the intake side: Charge Control and Charge Relief.

In theory, you could eliminate one of the Turbo Control Solenoids by changing the system to where it opens at a set rpm point and using a wastegate actuator on it instead of the diaphragm+boost/vacuum system it uses originally. When I get it assembled, I'll be testing it at first with a FD Turbo Control Actuator+Solenoids

So, using the FD's control system as a model, here's how the transition works.
0-3000rpm:
Turbo Control Flapper is closed
Turbo Pre-Control is closed
Wastegate is closed
Charge Control Butterfly Valve is closed
Charge Relief Valve is closed

3000-3500rpm
Turbo Pre-Control is open
Turbo Control is closed
Wastegate is closed
Charge Control Butterfly Valve is closed
Charge Relief Valve is open

3500-4000rpm
Turbo Pre-Control is open
Turbo Control is open
Wastegate is closed
Charge Control Butterfly Valve is open
Charge Relief Valve is closed

Now, as most FD owners know, the weak point of the whole system are its moving parts. The Charge Control Actuator seems to be the weakest link of all. It's a linear actuator that moves based on vacuum. But when the rod gets dirty, the gunk gets inside the actuator and ruins it, so the rear turbo stays in pre-spool mode (if the CCV is closed) or you get backspooling if the CCV is stuck open.

So I got to thinking about it and a solution hit me like a ton of bricks: Use a rotary actuator instead. But since all I could find are ones that operate from positive pressure, its source line needs to be under pressure from the primary turbo. Add in a new butterfly valve coupled to the actuator and the whole system becomes much more reliable. With all this in mind, I went to Harbor Freight last night and picked up an arc welder, stopped over at Micro Center for a 400 watt ATX power supply and will hit lowes tomorrow for some galvanized pipe to prototype the new system together. Like all my other inventions, it'll be offered for sale after I feel comfortable with the results. And unlike other designs, this will work on the FD, 13B-RE and 20B-REW and be rebuildable at a price far less than fixing the stock system with parts from Mazdatrix.

Did some more brainworking over the past couple days on the turbos. Got the inlets and outlets measured. Initially, I thought they were 2" but they are not. Every one of them is SMALLER than that. Turns out the rear outlet is 1.5" and the front is 1.75". The front inlet is 1.75" and the rear inlet is 1.625" in diameter. Those are what would be the inner diameter of the plumbing, which will make it much easier to put together using NPT pipe

Pipe is measured by the INNER DIAMETER and Tubing is measured by the OUTER DIAMETER. So 1 1/2" NPT pipe would be the right size for the rear turbo. As for the front one, that's gonna be tricky since no one makes a 1.75" NPT pipe

1.76625 in^2 is the area of the rear outlet (1.5")
2.4040625 in^2 is the area of the front outlet (1.75")
3.14 in^2 is the inner area of a 2" NPT pipe
4.90625 in^2 is the inner area of a 2.5" NPT pipe

So, 1.5" pipe for the rear is fine and 2" is as close as I can get to getting the front right without restricting flow.

Also, I'd like to point out that the FD's rear inlet pipe's flange is too small for the 20B's rear turbo inlet flange too. Gonna have to fab that together too

Pre-Valentines Day update:

Today was the first non-sucky weather day in awhile, so ObliqueFD and I FINALLY got the harness run through the firewall today. Contrary to popular belief, it's definitely a 2-person job. Tried doing it myself before the weather turned to poop and I gave up after 30 minutes. Also, I'd like to note that the easiest way to approach it is not to just put only the haltech connectors through and leave the fuses/relays under the hood, but to fish the wires through one group at a time from the inside. This is where a second pair of hands comes into play. One person to run a coat hangar through the hole and one to secure the wires to the hangar and aide feeding them through.

So now that the hard part is out of the way, it should be all cake to finish things up in quick order. Tomorrow's main order of business is to organize and tidy the harness up under the hood.

On a side note,I'd like to give some credit to kg6dxn on rotarycarclub for sending me the highly coveted JC Cosmo Shop Manual. It's the Series 1 manual, for all JC3SE/JCESE cars starting in 1990.

Though I don't officially know Japanese, I've watched enough subbed anime, played enough Japanese Super NES roms and played enough puzzle games to create a workable English version.

I'll be working on translating it as time permits after the conversion is done. Can't really give an estimated timeframe yet, but I'll keep everyone posted. One thing I've seen is that the Car Control System was a very slick piece in 1990. Stuff like the steering wheel audio controls and how it interfaces with the CCS is very well-thought out. Who would have thought to put an In-Call indicator in the gauge cluster? Or a "No Signal" indicator too? Mazda really should have made it an option in the Cosmo's four-door sibling, the 929.

Update WITH PIC!!
 

Did a little work getting things tidied up today. Fed the harness through a bit more, in order to get more wiggle room under the hood. Also organized and bundled each set into the most logical conduits. I temporarily left a gap at the firewall hole between what comes through it and the routing tubes. That gap has the identification tags for each wire in it.

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-13153702.jpg
The blue one contains every sensor wire

Every wire will be run to a junction station on the driver's side, then will go to their individual destinations via sub-harnesses. The idea for that is both to keep it clean as well as make it possible to remove the whole engine without having a mess of wires everywhere like last time. Between a couple GM radio harnesses for what's going to be immediately used and a barrier strip or two for the currently unused wires, that should take care of everything.

Travis, your slacking. lol. Nah its coming together pretty nicely. My wires would be stung in every which way:lol:

Spent today cleaning up and reorganizing the wiring so it makes more logical sense. There's one crossover at the firewall hole thanks to the DSI wire that couldn't be easily moved without re-running it through the firewall. So other than that, the perfectionist in me is satisfied with it now.

Junction box is 90% finished and will be placed behind the driver's side strut tower, reusing the Trailing Coil's mounts. It'll house every single wire coming from the Haltech except for the Injectors, Ignition, TPS and Coolant & Air Temperature Sensor wires. Inside it are three european-style barrier strips from Radio Shack, cut and super-glued back together to fit snugly inside the box. If there's anything I've learned from this project, it's that organization is a necessity. The barrier strips will keep all the wiring organized. After the box, everything will go off to their proper destinations with 12-gauge wire in red, blue and black. Red is power, Blue is signal and black is ground.

The remaining wires are being run through two GM stereo harnesses bolted to the side of the strut tower. These will allow removing circuits one at a time in groups of four. So one connector for primary injectors, one for secondaries and so on.

Test fit
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-16164736.jpg

Close-up of the wiring junction area
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-16164756.jpg

You take amazing progress pics / updates.

Thanks for the praise TheAbsence.

Today's update has brought small but important progress. Yesterday I ran into a snag with the GM stereo connectors: only one readily accessible threaded hole on the driver's side strut tower. There is one lower down, but it's too close to the brake hardline. So here's my solution:
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-16231744.jpg
Aluminum cover from a Radio Shack Project Box, a M6x1.0 stud and bolt (from the LIM on the 20b) and two M6x1.0 nuts.
Total Cost: $0

As soon as I bolted that on, the mail arrived with my new 20B Cosmo Y-pipe and rear turbo inlet, courtesy of ITSWILL (thanks man, you REALLY helped me out!). Figured it was time for a break from wiring, so here's how it looks.
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-17144627.jpg

The only issue with it is the frontmost pipe being too tall to clear the hood. As we all know, the Cosmo's hood sits nearly flat when closed so it's not an issue there. But with the FC and FD, it's sloped maybe 20 degrees. It hits the crossing between the diagonal and horizontal brace. So looks like the hood needs modded a tad more.

on mine i cut that pipe and had it rewelded...

you can see i also had to flip the water hose outlet too, my friend just used a hose that looked like a question mark on the 20B2000

more pics

Remembering a dear friend
 

Today I've taken the whole day off after hearing this morning at 7am that my best bud's sister died. Patricia Wilbanks, better known as Trisha Finney commited suicide on January 9th, 2011. What my friend Todd told me was that she was depressed (wouldn't say why, so I'm asking his brother Ryan) and that their mom Sandra took her to see a psychiatrist. If you've ever called the fairfield county sheriff's office, you probably talked to Sandra and know that she doesn't jump at ghosts.

Trisha was an old soul whose wisdom would often fall on deaf ears in her immediate family. She was a sweet girl with a solid sense of practicality.

It's why she latched onto me, since I listen to everyone with an open mind and heart. Last time I was over there, her and I had a very in-depth discussion about sociology and psychology first thing in the morning over coffee. Makes me wish I had known she was depressed before new years', so she wouldn't feel so isolated.

Last autumn, Todd bought a Del Sol on the cheap with a seized engine. We were gonna rebuild it for when Trisha got her license. Near the end of the season, Todd mentioned to be that she enjoyed going junkyard trolling for parts and finding a diamond in the proverbial desert.

When Amy, my exgirlfriend, and I were on the rocks 3 years ago, Trisha said something incredibly insightful. "If you love her, accept her and be with her.". Trisha was definitely the kind of girl that everyone here would like.

So I'd like to offer a memorial to Trisha, a dear friend whom we'll miss forever. If anyone would like to offer condolences, ask for Sandra Hackmann at the sheriff's office and say that Travis sent you.

Patricia Leanne Hackmann Wilbanks
1995-2011
We love you Trisha

The last few days have been an emotional roller coaster, but it's time to get back to the build. Thank you everyone for offering wisdom and condolences.

Big props to ITSWILL for giving me a 3rd S4T2 tan top Injector. You kick ass man. Combined with hooking me up with the Cosmo Y-pipe for $65 and that makes me VERY happy.

Now that the fuel system is finished, I can finally give the ignition system some attention. My initial plan was to use 3 Trailing coils, but deemed it too big and clunky. After that was 3 Leading coils, but that was fouled up when I found out afterwards that it's the leading coil that works via wasted spark and does the tach signal (not the Trailing coil as previously thought).

Most guys use LS1 coils with great results. But since I've never seen any LS1 car in any junkyard before, it was either buy them new for ~$40 each or find another option. That's why I was thinking about reusing the FC coils, which didn't exactly work out as planned. So back to the drawing board and then I stumbled upon the perfect solution... Dodge Viper coils.

The 92-97 first generation Viper uses a similar Coil-on-Plug setup like the LS1 does, but they're much more common thanks to Chrysler's parts-bin engineering. And when the second gen viper was changed to use centralized coils sourced from the Neon (4 port) and Caravan (6 port), the coil-on-plug system was recycled to the second generation of LH-platform cars, the Concorde/Intrepid/300. Wiring is simple too, one signal and one power to each.

So tomorrow I'm off to the junkyard to grab six coils from a 98+ Concorde/Intrepid and six EGR Solenoids from GM trucks to tackle the turbo control system and finish the wiring up completely. Add in some recycled materials for a solenoid box and ignition coil platform and wiring shall be finished. Total cost: under $50

Speaking of wiring, I've devised a way to get the A/C to work properly like stock using only one input. Details shall follow in the next update once I get it assembled.

After much homework and research on ignition coils. I've found out that 2-wire coils generally do NOT have ignitors in them. So the concorde coils are out and I'm back to square 1 about ignition. Fortunately, tomorrow is payday and one of my chick friends needs to hit the junkyard for a mirror this weekend. Who knows, we might find some gold there...

Something I JUST discovered is that the twin turbo control system can be further simplified by eliminating the vacuum and boost chambers. Turbo Control solenoid goes to a check valve, then to the Post-CCV nipple. Eliminating the Vacuum Chamber will make the transition from single to twin turbo mode more sudden as the Charge Control Valve is opening at the same time as the Charge Relief valves closes. One can do this by connecting the CRV/CCV and Turbo Control (Vacuum Side) solenoids directly to the front compressor inlet nipples instead of the Post-Throttle Body Nipple.

Another very clever idea I came up with is an emergency overboost protection system. Using the haltech's map sensor switch capability, the plan is to have it trigger a relay at 14 or 15psi that opens the CRV, BOV and Wastegate all together

Sorry for the lack of pictures in the last few updates, I haven't felt too ambitious in wrenching on the car recently. Yeah yeah, I'm slacking I know lol.

I struck gold this weekend... Yukon Gold

GM LS2 Truck Ignition Coils, 19005218 AKA the D585 coils with sub-harnesses included. The yard I went to was really busy and didn't have time to pull the ones I asked for (D581's), so I suggested the D585's and they came back with a full set still on the brackets 5 minutes later. $80 later and I'm cleaning all the dirt and gunk off. Out of the 3 plug wires included, it even had one plug wire completely intact too.

Add new brackets, the last subharness connector, some FC spark plug wires modded with LS1 terminals and the ignition will be done. Most people mount them under the UIM and use the LS1/LS2 wires so everything's nice and clean. The downside to that is you're tethered to a single possible coil location by the short spark plug wire length like on the FD. But by using the FC's wires with LS1 terminals, there's many more possibilities.

Oh, and plug wires for the FC are much less expensive than the LS1, LS2 or FD too:lol:

At Autozone for Duralast wires, FC ones are $15.99, LS2 12" ones are $27.99 and FD ones are $13.99 but are much shorter than the FC ones. Jegs has LS1 coil terminals for $7.99 per pair. So for mounting flexibility, I can spare an extra couple bucks to make them the PERFECT length

You'll want to put a check valve on your brake booster line. Stock turbo's they are in the little rubber elbow piece.
https://i619.photobucket.com/albums/...2-16164756.jpg

Sorry to repost the image.

Gm trucks did not have LS2 engines. It was likely an LQ4 or LQ9 engine. No biggie.

Also I found those 20B injectors, and I brought all the 20B parts I could find back from NY so hopefully I will find the actuator you need this weekend.

I'll probably be taking a trip to Jegs here in a couple weeks, maybe we could meet up in Columbus?

Pretty sure people just call them the LS2 Truck/Yukon/D585/etc Coils. If in doubt, use the part number.

Sounds great Will, lemme know when you'll be coming in. I'll probably have to go to Jegs in the next couple weeks anyway.

Beefhole, I've never cracked open the brake hydraulics but I'll definitely keep that in mind once the engine-related items are sorted out

Today was my birthday and though I haven't done much on the car in the past week, I want to take this time to tell everyone about the dangers of chemical dependencies.

A very dear friend succumbed to her addiction to vodka, percocet and vicodin in Nov/Dec 2009. She's into cars herself and we were best friends for a long time too. What caused the conflict was that her addiction took over her entire life and she was to the point of losing everything dear to her. So she flipped out, lashed out at me for saying that she needed professional help, and her husband put her in rehab so she could get the help she needed.

In her words, she should have died several times over. Over the past year, she's had an uphill climb to rebuild all the bonds her addictions ruined. And since she cleaned herself up, she realized how bad she treated me. Today marked the first time her and I could talk and make things right. So we talked...and talked about everything, what happened, all the hurt feelings, every single tiny little detail.

And in the end, I had my best friend again. Had it not been for a LOT of hard-headed faith on my part, damn good friends and a fantastic girlfriend to back me up, I'd have never solved this problem. And as soon as it happened, I heard one bit of music in my head, from Starfox 64. It's the little tune that plays right when you beat the game on the hard path.

So if you have a friend that does have a drug/alcohol problem, get them help even if they're mad at you. They'll appreciate that you did what was best for them when they can't help themselves. This past year has been hard on me, but it's made me realize that good friends WILL tell you when you're wrong. But what I now know is a great friend will show you how to make it right too.

So I'd like to thank my wonderful girl for making this the best birthday any guy could ever ask for.

(Car-related stuff will follow in the next update)

A couple spy shot from the Rotary REnovation secret design lab...or...the area next to my computer.

Coils sit perfectly flush and flat on the bracket template, ready for transfer onto the final materials. I'm designing the brackets for easy servicing, mounted in the stock leading location so the whole system can be pulled in 5 minutes flat with only two bolts and two plugs

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...328_174221.jpg

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...328_173035.jpg

I found the actuator!

I should be heading out to Jegs either this weekend or next weekend.

ITSWILL, you kick so much ass. Next weekend would be much better for me, as I won't have to crunch it in on the way to work. And I should get paid by then too lol. Lemme know when you're heading out and I'll try to meet you there

Today was a productive day. Reorganized all the haltech wiring and ran the last 2 wires through the firewall for the 4-pin trim connector. And while I was at it, got rid of that annoying crossover on the DSI wire.

And thanks to the great weather today, I had a date with the dremel and churned out some ignition coil brackets. Using the existing leading coil M6x1.0 mounting studs, it proved too much for the old Odd Lots dremel to handle and it conked out, sputtering to a stop after shearing the diamonds right off of a brand new diamond drill bit from harbor freight. Fortunately, one of the items I brought back from my dad's wake years ago was a brand new, never even opened Dremel XPR400 rotary tool. With a fresh drill bit snugged in the collet, and the speed set at 8 on the dial, it ate through the steel in quick order. The bolts for the coils are M5x0.8 thread, 30mm long and are enough for one coil per bracket. At the moment, Fastenal has 75mm long ones on order for me, which should be just enough to stack the remaining three coils on.

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...407_184812.jpg

LS2 Subharness Connectors, Pins & Seals (2 matching pairs): $30 from PCSconnector.com
4-pin mating connector for Haltech trim connector, with pins & seals: Free (sample from Tyco)
M5x0.8 75mm long bolts: $10 at Fastenal
Box of M5/M6/M8 hardware: $5 at Harbor Freight (not counted in build cost, way too many uses)
Materials: Recycled from an AT computer case

Well I've decided to bite the bullet and convert the oil cooler lines to AN10, the reason being that the rear line wouldn't stretch as far as I wanted it to, and look good. While the front line was fine, I couldn't get the blasted thing on the front cover. So if anyone wants a pair of stock FC oil cooler lines in good working order, $20 and they're yours.

On the plus side though, I've found out that if the radiator is not mounted in the stock location, the special Mazdatrix 90 degree adapter isn't needed for either oil cooler line.

So to recap:
M18x1.5 to AN10 adapter: $18 each (x3)
M16x1.6 to AN10 adapter: $18 each (x1)
Jegs 5ft Red Push-Loc AN10 hose: $16
90 degree hose ends in Black: $16 each (x4)
Total: $152

Been tackling wiring today as well, coils are finished and ready to go now. Both the coils and injectors are are color-coded too, red is front, yellow is middle and blue is rear rotor, with leading and primary main lines tagged in red and trailing/secondaries tagged in yellow.

One Coil, Two Coil
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...413_131752.jpg

Red Coil, Blue Coil
http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...413_162029.jpg

Mounted up, wired up and lined up for spark plug wires. Stock length is a perfect fit too, so $15 for a new set at Autozone, plus $24 for 6 LS1 terminals w/boots at Jegs and that's all set

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...413_162011.jpg
In this pic you can see how the rear rotor's coils (blue tags) are VERY close to one of the power steering lines. Maybe when I get more motivated after it's up and running, I'll fab up a continuous bracket and mount them all on it

Last, I'd like to take care of some damage control regarding GM Weatherpack and Tyco Superseal connectors.

Everyone says you need a special crimping tool for it. This is 100% WRONG. I used a regular el-cheapo one from Meijer, the kind you get with an assortment of crimp connectors in the automotive section. Here's a pic of them for reference, courtesy of Hometheatershack.com:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...re-crimper.jpg

Using the toothed section in conjunction with a pair of needle nose pliers, every crimp is just as good as a $50 or $100 double-action crimper. Only difference is that you have to spend an extra 15 seconds crimping the seals on after the pins. The only tools I'd suggest to have are a proper de-pin tool set in case one goofs when slipping them into the housings, $10 at Jegs. And for doing ignition terminals, another el-cheapo crimper has a special notch just for them. You can find those at Walmart too, and here's a pic:
http://www.txpinball.com/images/refu...s/crimpers.jpg