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Project OldTree: The 12 Days of Rotormas
I thought it was time to re-inject some humor into the 2nd Gen section, so here's my 12 Days of Rotormas, a jolly jungle dedicated to everyone that has had to do something to their car without a garage.:nod:
4/19/2013: I have renamed this thread and dedicated it in memory of my mother who died today. OldTree was her nickname and the new title reflects how she was: A gift that keeps on giving. We love you mom! Rest in peace. 10/29/1949 - 4/19/2013 On the First day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... A half-foot of Snow (sorry, no pic) On the Second day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... Twice as much Snow!:lol: On the Third day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... 3 quarts of coolant on my coat from replacing the bottom radiator hose in the dark during a blizzard!:( On the Fourth day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... $400 spree at Harbor Freight http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t.../Day0Tools.jpg On the Fifth Day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... Five-wheeled coffin! http://i47.tinypic.com/23k8ja.jpg On the Sixth day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... 6-second snipe on KYB AGX's with Ground Control Coilovers! http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t.../Day1Coils.jpg stay tuned for the second half of Rotormas |
Question, did you get all of the parts out of the van before it caught on fire? I mean, the parts are the important thing right?
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In before lemonade reference.
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Originally Posted by Stanello
(Post 9817626)
In before lemonade reference.
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The minivan on fire was someone else's that I saw on US-33 on the way to Columbus. So I guess this thread needs a disclaimer
No parts were harmed in the making of this thread. |
^^^^^Gotcha.
I was wondering why losing a vehicle was not mentioned. John ny |
On the Seventh day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me...
Receiving parts I've hunted for 7 years for (for my 95 Mirage) and only getting half of them (missing shifter and clutch lines/hydraulics) http://lh5.ggpht.com/_PjTO_KNYzc8/S3...arts%20017.jpg On the Eighth day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... 8 pounds of boost http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...on/Turbos2.jpg On the Ninth day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... Installed coilovers at 9pm http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...ion/Before.jpg http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t.../Oldandnew.jpg http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...sion/After.jpg On the Tenth day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... 10psi of boost much sooner! http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...on/Turbos1.jpg On the Eleventh day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... Getting called out at 11pm to change a very bald tire. On the Twelfth day of Rotormas, my true love gave to me... 300 pounds of awesome delivered at 12pm! http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...ion/Engine.jpg |
^
sweet ass sweet!! |
now you gotta go into the 100 days of rotordan(ramadan) rofl
keep it up looks good so far!! |
Lookin good, 5hrs in the dark isn't bad at all. When do you think the conversion will be complete? Keep us up to date!
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10/21/10 2pm to 7pm: Got the engine and transmission together and mounted using the transmission crossmember as a reference point. Got the 20b's mounts traced out onto foam board, ready for transfer onto steel. Had a lot of help from Lynn Hanover, a guy that's been into rotaries since the late 70s and builds professional rotary powered race cars. Right now, he has a tube chassis FD with a peripheral port 12a in it, putting out 325hp somewhere around 11,000rpm.
While I'm here, I'd like to dispel any rumors about clearance issues with the 20b. I'm using a Cosmo front cover and the stock N327 S4 N/A Automatic radiator, water pump and all S4 pulleys. The stock FC radiator WILL fit and just barely clear the pulleys and front cover, but getting a fan on it might be another story. Also, the Cosmo's oil pan is shaped to fit over the steering rack and engine cradle. Last, the 20B's turbos and downpipe are an easy fit too Now, for what DOESN'T fit. The S4 coolant filler neck is too tall, so a custom one is going to be made. With about 1 3/4" between the bottom of the engine (w/o oil pan attached), the hood won't clear the UIM since the LIM is quite tall. Lowering the engine to barely clear the oil pan above the steering rack, gutting the hood of the bracing, then reinforcing with flat iron boxed around the UIM might solve this, but I'm not entirely sure yet. Thankfully, N/A steel hoods are either cheap or free, though I might try a 89-92 Ford Probe hood if the N/A one doesn't want to work right. Last resort is a TII hood. Last, the Might Fit items. As for the 130 amp Taurus Alternator, I haven't checked the clearance yet, but it should be okay. The A/C Compressor and Power Steering Pump appear to fit, but I still need to bolt them up to the shortblock to make sure. The lines on both look long enough to reach though. Pics will follow once I doublecheck everything. It's really looking like Mazda planned it all along. Here's a pic for y'all to drool over now http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...ginePull14.jpg |
time for me to hijack your thread.. although we do seem to be pretty close to the same on our builds.
my motor testfit. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/IMAG0094.jpg motor getting cleaned up and s4 waterpump stuffs.. not sure what to do about that stud that completely misses the pump though.. maybe some all thread or something on the back of the housing is the trick. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...s/CIMG1456.jpg maybe i should start my own thread.. nah oh.. um.. what does the s4 water neck hit? the hood? |
stevensimon,
u should start a Hanukkah one lol! Akagis, eight months later huh? lol whats the hold up? i totally forgot about this thread. cant wait to see more results!!! |
Rotordan?!!! aahahahaha
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Wow that is a tall LIM. People have done this before, how come their engine fits and yours doesn't?
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a lot of people section their lim. take about an inch out of the runners below the flange and weld it back up..
strangely though, my manifold clears my panspeed hood with about 1/4" to spare |
on the first day of rotormas my true love gave to me; the keys to a brand new FC!
on the second day of rotormas my true love gave to me; two 2 parts cars on the third day of rotormas my true love gave to me; three chipped apex seals on the first day of rotormas my true love gave to me; four bald tires on the fifth day of rotormas my true love gave to me; fiveeeeeeee quarts of oil! on the sixth day of rotormas my true love gave to me; six days of headaches on the seventh day of rotormas my true love gave to me; seven ounces of premix on the eighth day of rotormas my true love gave to me; eight aching pains on the nineth day of rotormas my true love gave to me; 9 leaking side seals on the tenth day of rotormas my true love gave to me; 10 lbs of boost on the eleventh day of rotormas my true love gave to me; eleven unplugged wires on the 12th day of rotormas my true love gave to me; 12 rusted bolts |
why did you spell out all the days except the twelfth? god that is annoying
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Originally Posted by stevensimon
(Post 10282032)
why did you spell out all the days except the twelfth? God that is annoying
Lmao!! |
Okay, threadjack is over and now back to the build!
10/22/10 1pm-7pm: After lifting the engine up to get the crank pulley reassembled and torqued, I put the engine back in place and VOILA, it clears the hood now. It's not perfectly level like before, but it's close enough that I'm happy with it. Now the S4 water pump filler neck, UIM and Taurus alternator all clear the hood so it'll hit the first latch. Making it close all the way will take a little modding of the hood's underside braces. Anyway, it's time to give the build's thesis now. The whole point to my build is to show that a 20b swap doesn't have to be horrendously expensive. It can be done for pretty cheap if your focus is on making it work, not shiny bits.. Most 20b conversions are heavily optimized for performance, with plenty of custom fabrication for single turbo swaps and so on. Mine is optimized for the REAL owners that drive their FCs everyday. You know the kind, the cars with bolts that snap off from 20 years of rust, chunks of black crud coming out of the coolant when you drain the radiator and so on. This ain't no garage queen. Hell, my car STILL has the cold start bottle on it! And it's gonna be re-used as the new 2-stroke reservoir for the recycled S4 OMP. Why buy a new seadoo oil tank and then have to make brackets when you have a perfectly good container sitting in the car unused, for free? And best of all, people throw these out too! Anyway, I'm going to be using the stock Cosmo twin turbos and downpipe, which lines up VERY close to where the S4 N/A exhaust manifold does. With a little nudging on the mounts, I could probably get it to come out in the stock location. Once it's finished, I'll total up the whole project so everyone can see how much it really costs. Also, something to note is that my car was originally an Automatic, so I'm also including the relevant costs of the 5-speed swap such as the transmission mounting ears chiseled from a junkyard TII. Okay, picture time. http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...ginePull15.jpg |
nice build man. when do you think you will have it running by?
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Rotor-wanzaa
Rotor-kkah :boink: |
What are you using to run this car? (ECU wise)
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Originally Posted by Akagis_white_comet
(Post 10282210)
Mine is optimized for the REAL (rx7) owners that look at the puddle of oil forming under their broken down FCs everyday. You know the kind, the cars with bolts that snap off from 20 years of rust, chunks of black crud coming out of the coolant when you drain the radiator and so on. This ain't no garage queen. Hell, my car STILL has the cold start bottle on it! And it's gonna be re-used as the new 2-stroke reservoir for the recycled S4 OMP. Why buy a new seadoo oil tank and then have to make brackets when you have a perfectly good container sitting in the car unused, for free? And best of all, people throw these out too!
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^^^:crackup:
Travis, hurry up and get this finished because I need to borrow your engine crane. |
Originally Posted by stevensimon
(Post 10282032)
why did you spell out all the days except the twelfth? god that is annoying
also back on topic, i want a 20b! awesome build!:nod: |
Okay, time for an update now. Over the past few days, I've been getting little bits and pieces done on the build and trying to tidy all the loose ends up. These include swapping over the S4 coolant temperature and oil pressure sender (the stock gauge senders) as well as building my own engine mounts out of 1/4 and 1/8" flat iron. They were welded together by Lynn today and though not the most attractive pieces, they're beastly strong and incredibly rigid. Pretty sure his exact words were "You won't see these break, they'll be scraping you off the pavement first":lol:. He also let me in on some really simple but ingenious ideas that he used on his FD too, which will be implemented as well.
Including tidying up and today's progress, that's another 20 hours give or take. Anyway, pics will follow in the morning. And if I'm quick and lucky, it'll be started up for the first time in N/A form with the twins' wastegate wired open. Part of why I'm starting out with it this way is that I haven't had a chance to make intercooler plumbing or a proper intake elbow yet (Cosmo one hits the P/S and A/C bracket). Plus, the FD clutch I'll be using is most likely a stock one and couldn't handle the torque of a 20b with the twins operating. I'm not too sure about the numbers, but my guess is that it'll be somewhere around 240hp and 210 ft.lbs at the flywheel. Those are based on the assumption that it's 1.5 times what a bone-stock S5 N/A does, and doesn't take into account how the twins with open wastegate will affect it, or how close the Haltech PS2K's 20b base map (with S5 fuel map) I got from Claudio is to being perfect for the 550/550 injectors. Right now, the only way I'll be able to tell its actual power is when the clutch slips:lol: |
bcool got something like 220hp in non ported na form. your numbers should be pretty accurate..
also if you want to email me that map, id love it. |
After a week's worth of absence due to working 3rd shift running a mail machine for credit card statements, I've resumed work on the 20b. Thought I'd take a lunch break and give everyone an update.
As of today, the mounts are finished to the point where I'm too annoyed to mess with them any longer. After breaking EVERY single dremel grinding stone I had and then getting some diamond bits from Harbor Freight for $8 to finish slotting the stock FC mount bushings, they're close enough that I'm reasonably happy with the results. The downside is that the UIM no longer clears the hood anymore. The hood is currently about 2" from closing at the front, with the latch bar just barely touching the top of the latch mechanism. Oil pan is on and just BARELY touches the front sway bar, so there's two ways to approach it: 1. Nudge the engine forward a hair more by slotting the mounts more (there's plenty of material to work with) 2. Lower the sway bar a couple millimeters If anyone would like to chime in and offer suggestions, I'm more than glad to try something and give credit for it. In anticipation of this, I've soaked the sway bar bolts down with PB Blaster already today. Radiator is back in for a test fit right now and everything clears well enough. This is a completely stock N327 S4 Automatic radiator and it's a SUPER TIGHT fit. Not quite sure what I could repurpose the AT Cooler for yet, so to anyone with a creative mind, I'm all ears. Okay, time for pics, to illustrate how close the main pulley and radiator really are. http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...1-05121512.jpg http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...1-05121540.jpg I already got an idea on how to solve it in the usual brilliant and dirt-cheap fashion every S4 owner loves. With a few spacers made from leftover 1/4" and 1/8" flat iron, the A/C condenser can be moved forward to make room to swap the radiator brackets left to right, which will move the radiator forward by about 1/2 to 3/4". And with a little luck, that'll just be enough for the 2-Speed Taurus E-fan to barely slip in front of the main pulley and turbo oil supply pipe. |
Is that radiator going to be enough to cool the 20B?
Do the Banzai mounts have the same problem with clearance issues? |
i dont think that radiator is going to be big enough, but what do i know?
anyway, i would use the trans cooler to further cool the water in your system. maybe take water straight from the turbo to the cooler then back into the block to be sent back to the radiator. |
Stevesimon, that is EXACTLY the kind of clever, innovative thinking that I was looking for. Giving the turbos their own heat exchanger by reusing the AT one is simple and ingenious. You get a gold star and mention once it's done in the first start video.
As for the radiator itself, I figure that it's best to adapt a stock piece by making new specialized brackets. That way, if the radiator ever does need replaced, it's a simple off-the-shelf part with minimal fabrication. For hoses, the originals obviously won't work so perhaps a pair of those universal flex ones would do it for now. Speaking of the radiator brackets, I'd like to give everyone a fair warning. Removing them can be a REAL bitch. Three of the four bolts came out no problem, but one was rusted/cold-welded to the nut on the other side (wedged between two plastic ribs). It took cutting with a carbine cutoff wheel, diamond grinding bit, hammer and chisel and bending with pliers to chew up the bolt head enough to knock it out and replace with fresh M8x1.0 hardware. Anyway, I'm hedging that the rad will end up close to 90 degrees, so the A/C condenser is getting angled to match with a pair of machined spacers for the longer bottom mounting bolts (again, fresh M6x1.0 bolts), and the exposed studs on it are gonna be covered up to not dent up the rad. The next time you're in Autozone or O'Reily Auto Parts, I recommend picking up the Dorman brand Value Pack for Asian Vehicles 128 piece fastener set for about $10. Part number is 799-305 and it has M6x1.0, M8x1.0, M10x1.25, M10x1.50 and M12x1.5 Class 8.8 nuts, bolts and washers in it. Class 8.8 is roughly equal to SAE Grade 5 and would cover just about anything encountered on a FC or FD. Right now, it's a balmy 34*F outside and a bit too chilly to go out and turn wrenches. When it hits today's high of 40, I'll head out. And just for the fun of it, here's a short list of the music of the swap, all from some of my favorite video games from the FC and FD eras. Metroid and Super Metroid OSTs Gambare Goemon (Super Famicom) Mega Man 1-8, X1-6, plus Rockman & Forte OSTs (cant forget Okkusenman, I Can't Defeat Airman and all of Hyadain and Brentalfloss's lyrical versions, they ROCK) Star Fox, Star Fox 2 and Star Fox 64 OSTs Sonic the Hedgehog 2 OST All of them have kickass music that keeps the adrenaline flowing, perfect for big projects like this. |
Well, I've run into a snag with the A/C condenser, it doesn't want to move enough without undoing the lines. So I am seeking assistance from my fellow S4 owners with A/C. If anyone has a spare condenser laying around, could you please do me a favor and measure the thread pitch of the following items:
Driver's side fitting Passenger side main line to Drier fittings Passenger side Drier to Condenser fittings I need these fitting thread pitches to take to the local hydraulic shop and have them make some jumper hoses. It's just a guess, but I think they might be somewhere around the same pitch as the brake hardlines. Once those are made, I'll be mounting the radiator with the stock brackets modified (a slot in each of them) so they'll fit with the top mount holes stock and the bottom holes underneath the capture nuts on the rad support with a few washers to adjust the angle. That should give it just enough clearance for the Taurus fan to slip on Aside from this snafu, the agenda for today is to finish the mounts up so the hood will close properly. Haven't measured yet, but the oil pan clears the steering rack just fine at the moment (tested it lock to lock yesterday), but the pan's front bubble's rear edge touches the sway bar's front edge. Probably just needs a couple millimeters shaved off the engine mount bushings' holes to nudge it forward enough, then take it straight down as much as possible. Once again, the $8 diamond bit set and $20 Nikota chinese dremel from Odd Lots shall earn their weight in gold. To add to the irony, the Nikota one gets more use than my official Dremel XPR400 series rotary tool, which seems to be lacking a few pieces such as an extra collet and locking pin for the included flex shaft. One other thing I'd like to mention is that acrylic craft paint has found LOTS of uses in this project. From where to slot holes back to on the engine mounts to marking the hood's underside for clearance, it's a cheap timesaver. It's available at any Jo-Ann Fabrics for about $1 for a 2oz squeeze tube. I recommend one of the darker red shades, roughly the color of a Mitsubishi badge, for good contrast against most any other color. Shows up MUCH better than a sharpie marker. Now here's a clever how-to for everyone's benefit: To find out where to cut the hood braces at, dab a little of the craft paint on the UIM in various spots like the throttle body and intake runners, then close the hood to transfer it over. Smeared blobs are where you cut the hood, and show you what hits. Areas most likely to hit are the intake runners (especially the front two), the intake plenum (again, front two runners) the throttle body around the coolant pipe, alternator (if using a larger one), Coolant Filler Neck (radiator cap) and possibly the intake elbow (haven't checked it yet). For areas to be cut, use red while areas to be massaged with a grinder should be in blue. |
I heard my name. Let me know if you have any questions
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Well, it's time for an update now. A few days ago, we got the hood braces modified to clear the UIM, P/S pump and S4 Filler neck. Today, the A/C condenser is out, along with its fan thanks to a generous dose of PB Blaster on the fittings and bolts. Part of the fan's shroud is bent slightly so it won't spin. Could be an easy fix, but I don't want to deal with it. With the condenser out of the way, I busted out the dremel once again and started hacking away at the radiator brackets for the prototype vertical mount radiator. What I've done is swap them left to right and make a notch in both of the brackets. This gives it enough room so the top bolt can be in the stock location and the bottom one will be on the opposite side of the capture nuts
The condenser will go back in eventually, but with a custom V-mount setup that I've yet to design. With the radiator near-vertical, the horns were moved to either side of the hood latch. It's sure nice that Mazda was so generous with the extra pre-threaded holes on these cars, I'm finding lots of uses for them. The Taurus fan still needs a teeny bit more room to clear the crank pulley (using S4 ones). Also, I'd like to note that the four long A/C compressor bolts are M8x1.25 thread just like the radiator to rad support bolts and they're coming in very handy to push/pull the radiator where I want it to go. Okay, enough babble, time for pics Horns (stock mount is left side, new spot is right side) http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...1-10135152.jpg Hood, marked with red dots of craft paint for modification http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...1-08163327.jpg Hood, after modification. Black spot is from hammering to fit around the P/S pump. Still needs a little more though http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...1-10164852.jpg Almost-vertically mounted S4 Radiator on notched stock S4 radiator brackets. Enough room for thinner E-fans, but the Taurus one needs a little work though. Also something to notice is that the LIM is completely untouched and clears the N/A hood just fine http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t...1-10164826.jpg |
Awesome build. Keep up the good work!
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Good work, keep up the fabrication.
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I'm pretty sure you're going to run into cooling issues with that radiator. Also you're going to need to so some serious duct work.
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Over the past few days, I've been cleaning up and organizing things for the final last push to finish the conversion. This includes tying up all the odds and ends like gauge senders, battery relocation and so on. Bought a battery box at Walmart for $7. For all that want to move their battery, it's their Marine Size 21 one and fits the stock Size 35 battery perfectly, thanks to them having one on hand for a test fit.
Lowes has a remnant of 00-Gauge wire on hand for $1.79 per foot (30 feet of it!!!). The price is definitely nice and it should be beefy enough for the current, but routing that through the interior is gonna give me nightmares :lol:. The other options locally available are 2 or 4 gauge welder's cable at Tractor Supply Company for $5 and $4/foot respectively, a 25ft spool of 2-Gauge battery cable for $50, or going with a custom setup. If anyone would like to give a recommendation, I'm ALL ears. Also noticed something about the 20b that will make everyone sad pandas. The original Oil Pressure Sender had broken off in the rear iron and I can't get it out. Since trying to use a bolt extractor could ruin the rear iron, I came up with a way to transplant the S4 one without having to buy an oil filter block from Racing Beat for $70. The rear oil cooler line is M18x1.5 just like the FC. My first idea was to convert to AN lines, but that proved to be way too costly to swap over and Tee off for the pressure sender. The next idea was to use a double banjo bolt. Contrary to popular belief, Banjo bolts to accept two banjo fittings do exist in M18x1.5 thread, and Jegs has the banjo fittings with AN6 outputs on them. The double banjo bolts however would have to be ordered from FINLAND (google for it, you'll see). Alas, that was not suitable, cost effective nor time-efficient enough. Putting the original banjo bolt on the desk, I walked away from it till midnight. That's when I had a BRILLIANT revelation... Tap the Banjo Bolt's head for 1/8" NPT threads As my friend Cori said when I called him up to tell him about it,"That's so stupid it's brilliant." Anyway, the Oil Pressure Sender on a s4 is apparently 1/8-28 BSPT, but it'll thread into a 1/8" NPT fitting far and snug enough to please me. So off to Lowes for a 1/8" NPT thread tap ($9) and Tap wrench ($9). That would normally do the trick, but awhile back I decided I was unhappy with how the fluid systems are so closed-off from inspection. So I bought a 1/8" female NPT tee adapter, Male-Male union adapter and male plug. Now the system will has a test port on it, at the same location as the stock sender. And if I decide to add an oil temperature gauge later on, Harbor Freight has female 1/4" NPT four-way fittings for $3! Pics shall follow of the ingenious device upon completion tonight. Also, while there, I took in a fitting that threaded perfectly into the Coolant Temperature Sender port on the rear iron. Turns out it's 1/8" NPT too, which is different from the S4's sender (M8x0.75). With those numbers fresh in my head, I started calling around to find a tap. Only Fastenal has them and they're $28 each. For the time being, I'm just gonna use the ECU's sender in the water pump housing and possibly T-splice that to the gauge If anyone would like custom adapter fittings made, such as the Banjo Bolt to NPT Tee for the oil cooler line, please PM me about it. I can make them for a LOT less than it'd cost for the filter block from Racing Beat. |
Originally Posted by Akagis_white_comet
(Post 10327883)
Lowes has a remnant of 00-Gauge wire on hand for $1.79 per foot (30 feet of it!!!). The price is definitely nice and it should be beefy enough for the current, but routing that through the interior is gonna give me nightmares :lol:.
For the pressure sender, couldn't you just connect to the oil supply line for the turbos somehow? Wouldn't that be easier? What about tapping the oil filter pedestal? |
Been reading up on it recently and heard that some people have issues routing 2-gauge welding cable through the firewall and keeping it tidy. 00-gauge is four sizes larger, and most likely that much more difficult to route.
Connecting the pressure sender to the turbos would work too, but the oil line would need modified to fit, as well as figuring out what pitch the fittings are and adapting them ad needed. The downside to it would be that it'd have a different reading on the stock S4 Gauge compared to the original location due to regional differences in oil pressure. Some areas are under higher pressure, while areas like the dump pipes would see less pressure since it's at the end of the circuit. I'd wager that the engineers for Mazda picked the original location to give a nice median reading for the whole system. The part I made is about an inch away from there, so any difference in oil pressure readings should be negligible. Plus, placing an electrical part so critical to engine survival on the the biggest heatsink under the hood doesn't sound like a great idea. A plus to having it on the oil cooler's send line is that if an oil temperature gauge comes along later, it'll read at the hottest part. And since it's on a M18x1.5 banjo bolt, I could put another adapter fitting in on the oil cooler's return line for post-oil cooler temperatures.:nod: Plus, a banjo bolt is a common part, cheap to replace and readily available from lots of places. Finding another JC Cosmo oil filter tower in case something goes wrong might take awhile, and is bound to cost quite a bit. Compared to getting the oil filter tower block from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix, I'm already $50 ahead for the same result.:icon_tup: |
your brilliant idea is very old by the way.
ive tapped a few banjo bolts for oil temp sending units and was not the first to think of it either. nothing new. its cool that you think outside of the box though. in the mean time, enjoy some 1uzfe swapped fc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbDPfWWz8ew |
thats a sick swap sounds awsome. does it have itb setup?
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nope. stock motor is stock.
you can read more in the "other motor swaps" section |
UPDATE:
I'm currently in talks with Seibon to get a Carbon Fiber N/A hood made. As you may know, Seibon makes some great stuff for the FD, but the FC gets no love other than the TII hoods on ebay and the occasional center vent ones from RE-Amemiya and other japanese manufacturers. Now here comes the downside: we need 100 of them made. I'll see if we can get the initial number reduced since the FC is the biggest group. Also, I've offered to donate my hood to the project to make tooling easier, and would mean that the CF ones would already fit a 20B-REW with no mods too. For my specific application, I'm asking that a passenger side teardrop-like vent (with raintray!) be added to it, sorta like the R34 GT-R. Depending on how they want to work the deal, adding vents to the initial order could be done on a case-by-case basis (for individual customization), or be done to the whole lot (cheaper for them in tooling). Once I hear back from them, we'll see how they want to do this. But in the meantime, if you are interested in one of them, please let me know. On an unrelated note, I'd like to ask a small favor from everyone with a relocated battery: How exactly did you get the main positive cable through the firewall's drivers side grommet, from the inside or from the outside? Pics on both sides of the firewall would be greatly appreciated too. I can't seem to find where it is from the inside and am tempted to run it on the passenger side with the haltech's wiring. |
Sweet, hopefully i see this around some place and we can BS
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Originally Posted by Akagis_white_comet
(Post 10294688)
or a proper intake elbow yet (Cosmo one hits the P/S and A/C bracket).
Originally Posted by Akagis_white_comet
(Post 10347698)
UPDATE:
On an unrelated note, I'd like to ask a small favor from everyone with a relocated battery: How exactly did you get the main positive cable through the firewall's drivers side grommet, from the inside or from the outside? Pics on both sides of the firewall would be greatly appreciated too. I can't seem to find where it is from the inside and am tempted to run it on the passenger side with the haltech's wiring. if you want one that clears the PS AND AC then you might need to make one that comes straight out when i did the battery relocation, i put the battery in the storage bin, and then it went thru a grommet in the floor, and it was run under the car next to the fuel lines and then to the starter. we looked at a bunch of cars and this is basically how the MGB, miata and E30 are done.... i like the stock radiator move, but i HIGHLY doubt the stock radiator will work, back in the day we all ran the K2RD radiator, which is based on an AFCO double pass unit, and even that one is marginal. the stock turbos fit nicely, but they also suck, if i had to do it again i'd gladly take the 12hp (we dynoed a STOCK 20B and an NA one) penalty and run NA. call will be about 100lbs lighter too, and the HEAT the twins generate makes a stock FD look like an ice cube... oh also you need to find a turbo hood, the 3 rotor intake fits in the scoop like its made for it ;) cool build though! can't go wrong with a white S4 with a 3 rotor, i did it, paul ko did it, bcool did it... its just the right thing to do |
Thank you to everyone that has offered suggestions, praise and constructive criticism. After mulling over the battery cable for long enough, I grabbed a pair of kitchen scissors and pushed the closed blades through the driver's side grommet. They poked a hole just big enough to slip the 3-gauge main battery cable through. Some of you are probably thinking "3-gauge???". Yes, I can assure you that it does exist. What I'm specifically using is THHN building cable, found on sale at Menards for $1 per foot.
Thanks to a quick check using the Electrical Wiring app for Android, it's more than enough to handle the maximum the Taurus alt can dish out. Using 15 feet for the main cable, 3-gauge tops out at 158 amps. For the same run, 4-gauge maxes out at 135. And on an interesting note, 4-gauge battery cable and welding cable was actually more expensive, and me being the frugalist I am, didn't want to pay the $4/foot for it. Also, the app can calculate things like Voltage Drop (with temperature correction!), do voltage/resistance/amperage conversions and all sorts of useful math that comes in handy with any electrical project. Best of all, it's FREE! According to national american building codes, THHN cable is required to be entirely soft-annealed copper and the insulation has to be oil, gas and abrasion-resistant as well as self-lubricating to make it easy to run through walls. So according to Aaron Cake's electrical working rules, there's no need to solder it since the lugs and strands will pressure-weld themselves together when crimped properly. Add in a radio shack project box, a M10 nut and bolt, some heavy duty adhesive and a couple repurposed stock brackets and you've got the perfect underhood distribution/jumpstart point. That idea came from looking at my mom's Chrysler Concorde and how the battery is buried in the fender so deep that you can't give it a jump without a dedicated jump point. If I'm feeling ambitious this winter, the box's lid might get some dremel router attention to give it an OE-looking engraved label. So in recap: Battery box: $7 3-Gauge cable (20 feet): $20 Pure Copper Terminal lugs: $5 for 4 Radio Shack Project box (part#270-1803): Recycled from another project. Scosche Distribution Block for dual amps with BIG fuses: $9 Extra 60/80/100/120 amp maxi fuses: free from the junkyard in any big american car like the Taurus or Crown Vic Total Battery relocation cost: $40 Benefits of inside and underhood fused distribution blocks: priceless The look on everyone's face when you did it for half of what they spent: best captured by legendary animation director Tex Avery:lol: |
dude... the main 12v wire goes straight to the starter. dont loop it around to the damn engine bay and back to the starter. only two wires go to the battery, and thats for the fuse box and for the alternator 12v charging.one is an 12 gauge and one is a 8 gauge?
the 12v from the battery goes to the starter, and the negative lead goes there as well, but also goes to the engine bay. thats the only one i would run to the engine bay. |
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