NGL's 1986 GX (T2 swapped!)
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NGL's 1986 GX (T2 swapped!)
I guess we'll start from the beginning.. I'm the third owner of this FC, picked it up in mid 2014 with ~120,000km. The car was in very good shape and I just had to have it. It being a GX, the only fancy things it had is the power steering and sunroof. Everything is manual (my favourite!).
Here's a picture of the engine bay after a much needed cleaning.
I converted to 5 lug (T2 brakes), installed coilovers and removed the subwoofer shortly after. Unfortunately, the previous owner drilled holes into the rear bins and destroyed the rear carpet so I ditched those as well.
I also installed a 330mm Nardi Deep Corn steering wheel and a 200mm leather shift **** to add a personal touch to the interior.
After a long Canadian winter in storage, I pulled the car back out and it was turned into a shop car (kind of?) to promote a good friends business. The car then suffered a drivetrain failure a few months later and back into storage it went.
After much deliberation, instead of putting in all the labor to diagnose and fix that drivetrain issue, I decided to just do a T2 swap. Replaced all the vacuum lines, installed ID725 secondaries, FCD, clutch, rear main seal, ported the wastegate, had a full SS 3" exhaust with 4" turndown exit fabricated, resealed the transmission before I finished the swap. A bunch of work really.
The car drove perfectly for a total of 1000km after I finished the swap until my bad luck struck again two weeks ago, the rear rotor spontaneously lost compression (while shifting from 2nd to 3rd, around 3000rpm) on my way home, the second time the car has left me stranded in the span of 12 months. I wasn't impressed but I knew that it was mostly my fault, I threw the engine in thinking I can get away with the bare minimum allowable compression spec. Guess it didn't like me trying to squeeze all the power it could produce either.
So now with the 2016 winter season coming up, the drivetrain will be pulled out again and a rebuild is imminent... So I need some advice!
Here's a picture of the engine bay after a much needed cleaning.
I converted to 5 lug (T2 brakes), installed coilovers and removed the subwoofer shortly after. Unfortunately, the previous owner drilled holes into the rear bins and destroyed the rear carpet so I ditched those as well.
I also installed a 330mm Nardi Deep Corn steering wheel and a 200mm leather shift **** to add a personal touch to the interior.
After a long Canadian winter in storage, I pulled the car back out and it was turned into a shop car (kind of?) to promote a good friends business. The car then suffered a drivetrain failure a few months later and back into storage it went.
After much deliberation, instead of putting in all the labor to diagnose and fix that drivetrain issue, I decided to just do a T2 swap. Replaced all the vacuum lines, installed ID725 secondaries, FCD, clutch, rear main seal, ported the wastegate, had a full SS 3" exhaust with 4" turndown exit fabricated, resealed the transmission before I finished the swap. A bunch of work really.
The car drove perfectly for a total of 1000km after I finished the swap until my bad luck struck again two weeks ago, the rear rotor spontaneously lost compression (while shifting from 2nd to 3rd, around 3000rpm) on my way home, the second time the car has left me stranded in the span of 12 months. I wasn't impressed but I knew that it was mostly my fault, I threw the engine in thinking I can get away with the bare minimum allowable compression spec. Guess it didn't like me trying to squeeze all the power it could produce either.
So now with the 2016 winter season coming up, the drivetrain will be pulled out again and a rebuild is imminent... So I need some advice!
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QUOTE: So now with the 2016 winter season coming up, the drivetrain will be pulled out again and a rebuild is imminent... So I need some advice!
OK..use a Heater in your garage..according to the Farmer's Almanac winter is gonna be brutal...and Don't pee in your ski pants..as it will freeze and your legs will break and you will topple over.
*advice from Mr Styx..lol!
OK..use a Heater in your garage..according to the Farmer's Almanac winter is gonna be brutal...and Don't pee in your ski pants..as it will freeze and your legs will break and you will topple over.
*advice from Mr Styx..lol!
#3
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QUOTE: So now with the 2016 winter season coming up, the drivetrain will be pulled out again and a rebuild is imminent... So I need some advice!
OK..use a Heater in your garage..according to the Farmer's Almanac winter is gonna be brutal...and Don't pee in your ski pants..as it will freeze and your legs will break and you will topple over.
*advice from Mr Styx..lol!
OK..use a Heater in your garage..according to the Farmer's Almanac winter is gonna be brutal...and Don't pee in your ski pants..as it will freeze and your legs will break and you will topple over.
*advice from Mr Styx..lol!
-----
While I've worked on and built quite a few piston engines, I've never rebuilt a rotary engine. I'd consider myself quite proficient when it comes to engine work. So I'm sorry in advanced if the questions seem a little noob-ish.
A few questions, assuming I'm shooting for 400-500whp;
What sort of porting should I be looking to have done? (I'll be outsourcing the porting but assembly will be done by me)
If I were to go the bridgeport route, would I still be able to use the OEM 2 piece apex seals? Or should I be getting 1 piece apex seals.
Should I get a rebuild kit online or should I buy OEM everything? (Ignoring cost of parts)
Last edited by _NGL; 08-25-16 at 12:47 AM.
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Well I've finally had time to bring the car to the shop and take out the powertrain. Found the cause of my low/no compression on the rear rotor. An apex seal broke into a few pieces and proceeded to destroy everything around it. So far I've managed to salvage the rear iron (important, see next paragraph!), I need to tear down the rest of the engine to see what else is good/no good.
I also convinced a friend of mine to sell me his rebuilt T2 keg (>500km) that cracked a rear iron on the dyno. So now, the good rear iron from the engine that was in the car is being swapped onto this rebuilt engine. I'm relatively sure that the bearings in the cracked engine is still good because they shut the engine down as soon as they noticed oil leaking from the crack in the rear iron on the dyno, it was then removed and stored since. We shall see what happens!
I dropped off the new engine and replacement rear iron to Amkard a couple hours ago actually! Thanks for the recommendation Dave.
Now hopefully I can have everything done for a track day on the 29th!
I also convinced a friend of mine to sell me his rebuilt T2 keg (>500km) that cracked a rear iron on the dyno. So now, the good rear iron from the engine that was in the car is being swapped onto this rebuilt engine. I'm relatively sure that the bearings in the cracked engine is still good because they shut the engine down as soon as they noticed oil leaking from the crack in the rear iron on the dyno, it was then removed and stored since. We shall see what happens!
Now hopefully I can have everything done for a track day on the 29th!
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