NA Build
for an NA you typically want as short a tire as you can get, it helps with gearing.
part two is that the tire to rim width is important, Mazda does a 205 tire on a 7" wheel, 225 on an 8" wheel, etc and this seems to be pretty ideal. if you make the wheel even wider it helps, so a 205 tire on an 8" wheel performs better than the same tire on a 7" wheel
so for a 225/50/15 you would want at least an 8" wheel. 205/50/15 is nice because its a really common size, so there should be plenty of tires out there
part two is that the tire to rim width is important, Mazda does a 205 tire on a 7" wheel, 225 on an 8" wheel, etc and this seems to be pretty ideal. if you make the wheel even wider it helps, so a 205 tire on an 8" wheel performs better than the same tire on a 7" wheel
so for a 225/50/15 you would want at least an 8" wheel. 205/50/15 is nice because its a really common size, so there should be plenty of tires out there
Quick question, since I have an S4 motor, I've looked around and I havent got a clesr answer. Will an S5 rear plate fit on the S4? I dont see why it woulsnt but always check before buying yknow. The S5 plate is thicker and the added reliability seems like a plus to me
More than likely going to pull the motor shortly, when you're around these cars you kind of get a gut for these things. I fixed an exhaust leak today and when I cranked the car I heard a thumping noise in synch to the crank. The car started and ran fine, but on top of the new noises it was smelling really weird and something is telling me to pull the motor before something happens and I need to spend a ton more money
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Quick question, since I have an S4 motor, I've looked around and I havent got a clesr answer. Will an S5 rear plate fit on the S4? I dont see why it woulsnt but always check before buying yknow. The S5 plate is thicker and the added reliability seems like a plus to me
well fair enough then, thank you. And would you be able to help me with a noise I'm hearing? I fixed an exhaust leak and when I crank up the car there is a loud themping in synch with the cranking up in the engine bay. My instincts have told me not to mess with the car since hearing the noises, am concerned it's the rotors I'm hearing
The front end has been removed for repair, with the passenger side fender needing replaced entirely, too bent for me to wish to repair it
An unfathomable amount of dirt and debris fell from the fenders, but lucky for me the frame looks great with little to no rust, as well as the underbody being straight even where the fender wasnt
Does anybody know how I can remove the top of the headlight assembly? The cover? I looked around online and couldnt find anything on it, I'd like to remove them and prep for paint eventually after I order the watanabes
I replaced one 20 years ago without issue. I was pretty car stupid then. It should be pretty easy, all of the screws should be fairly easy to get to. There are two screws on the rear of the cover, they are easily visable. Then flip the light and look for similer looking screw points on the front. Some dissassembly might be needed. They arent really held on by much suprisingly.
Edit: There is a removable plastic parts on the side with screws. If the other screws are not on the front check under there.
Edit: There is a removable plastic parts on the side with screws. If the other screws are not on the front check under there.
Last edited by Jeff76; Jan 31, 2024 at 06:27 PM.
I replaced one 20 years ago without issue. I was pretty car stupid then. It should be pretty easy, all of the screws should be fairly easy to get to. There are two screws on the rear of the cover, they are easily visable. Then flip the light and look for similer looking screw points on the front. Some dissassembly might be needed. They arent really held on by much suprisingly.
Edit: There is a removable plastic parts on the side with screws. If the other screws are not on the front check under there.
Edit: There is a removable plastic parts on the side with screws. If the other screws are not on the front check under there.
I guess the florida sun doesn'tdoes80's plastic much justice as I couldn't find the trim ANYWHERE in florida, at least not for reasonable prices. But luckily one of my friends in georgia had some he let go for cheap, one needs to be repaired but it's nothing some glue or bondo wont fix. Very excited, been wanting the trim for the longest
well everyone the build has taken a sudden shift. Got this uncracked black RHD dash for free....so why not. It may not be something everyone recommends is worth the effort, but it's torn down anyways and will be for awhile, so why not challenge myself?
I removed my sunroof and have officially removed every removable panel from the car. I did a lot of sanding today removing some rust and such but unfortunately underneath the sunroof I found some pretty bad rot. I will be posting a photo of it soon and am not sure if I should just cut it out or reshell. I luckily caught it before it spread over the roofline and it's just on the little sunroof pinch weld
like I said found some bad rust but I think I can just cut it out since I'm deleting the sunroof anyways. I'm also selling some fortune auto 500 coilovers if anyone is interested, year old just dont like the color and came with the car
I currently drive an arctic silver FC with a peripheral port and an S2 RX8 6 speed! If you decide to go down this route, I can confirm it's a blast.
For throttle bodies, you can either run Jenvey (which is what I use, in the 48mm flavor) or EFI Hardware. Jenvey is a great product IMO and is much cheaper than EFI Hardware. EFI Hardware is also great, but typically much more expensive. Pineapple Racing made a production run of S2 RX8 transmission adapter kits for the FC; I currently have the beta on my car. The shop is currently changing ownership, so it can't be ordered right now but I presume it will be available for sale in 2-3 months from now.
As J9 stated, the intake fabrication is super simple. If you use v-bands or wiggins clamps coming off the engine, it's basically a set of tubes welded to whatever your type of flange your throttle bodies use (DCOE, IDA, etc.).
If you go peripheral port, you won't create consistent enough vacuum to operate your brake master booster. I ended up getting the Chase Bays Dual Piston master cylinder delete to compensate for this.
When it comes to exhaust on peripheral port, you need to run separate primaries and either have a short or long collection point. The math is available on Racing Beat's website. Shorter collection point will potentially increase peak HP at higher RPMS and a longer collection point will increase mid-range torque and give you a broader power band.
Looks like a fun project!
For throttle bodies, you can either run Jenvey (which is what I use, in the 48mm flavor) or EFI Hardware. Jenvey is a great product IMO and is much cheaper than EFI Hardware. EFI Hardware is also great, but typically much more expensive. Pineapple Racing made a production run of S2 RX8 transmission adapter kits for the FC; I currently have the beta on my car. The shop is currently changing ownership, so it can't be ordered right now but I presume it will be available for sale in 2-3 months from now.
As J9 stated, the intake fabrication is super simple. If you use v-bands or wiggins clamps coming off the engine, it's basically a set of tubes welded to whatever your type of flange your throttle bodies use (DCOE, IDA, etc.).
If you go peripheral port, you won't create consistent enough vacuum to operate your brake master booster. I ended up getting the Chase Bays Dual Piston master cylinder delete to compensate for this.
When it comes to exhaust on peripheral port, you need to run separate primaries and either have a short or long collection point. The math is available on Racing Beat's website. Shorter collection point will potentially increase peak HP at higher RPMS and a longer collection point will increase mid-range torque and give you a broader power band.
Looks like a fun project!
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