My First Rx7 build/project!
I agree im jealous! its an original kouki too super clean he did have to swap it from auto to 5speed though.
Finally got everything all in got it on the ground.... life is so much better not being on your back while working on your car.

put the hood back on and started her up! idled a little rough once i warmed her up and tinkered with the throttle body it smoothed out. one of the black rod/button things that pushes against the throttle arm/cable keeps getting stuck not sure if its for cold start or what but when i push it in i believe the air pump starts to make noise. Do you guys know what it is? I can post pics tomorrow.
also there is a black wire running out from the harness going towards the starter and trans it was ripped out when i raised the engine and I can find where it goes.
it has a clear connector i can also get a pic tomorrow.
The only other thing that is wrong is the battery wont hold a charge but alternator is working fine at around 14volts. just need to throw a new one in.
Finally got everything all in got it on the ground.... life is so much better not being on your back while working on your car.

put the hood back on and started her up! idled a little rough once i warmed her up and tinkered with the throttle body it smoothed out. one of the black rod/button things that pushes against the throttle arm/cable keeps getting stuck not sure if its for cold start or what but when i push it in i believe the air pump starts to make noise. Do you guys know what it is? I can post pics tomorrow.
also there is a black wire running out from the harness going towards the starter and trans it was ripped out when i raised the engine and I can find where it goes.
it has a clear connector i can also get a pic tomorrow.
The only other thing that is wrong is the battery wont hold a charge but alternator is working fine at around 14volts. just need to throw a new one in.
Dont mind my girly light. Brought her into my work (last place I want to be on my day off) and threw on my springs struts and smogged her.
them cleaned up

shitty pic but stock ride height

getting smogged

she passed! (before buying the car I checked on the BAR website with the VIN the smog history and she passed all times before this but factoring in that its been sitting for a while I wasnt to confident).
the stance after installing the suspension

not too much lower but way stiffer! handles like a champ and me living off a dirt road can appreciate not bottoming out every couple of feet.
them cleaned up

shitty pic but stock ride height

getting smogged

she passed! (before buying the car I checked on the BAR website with the VIN the smog history and she passed all times before this but factoring in that its been sitting for a while I wasnt to confident).
the stance after installing the suspension

not too much lower but way stiffer! handles like a champ and me living off a dirt road can appreciate not bottoming out every couple of feet.
Im going to try and buff out all the flaws on the car. All four corners of the car have rub marks as you can see in the pic above the left front part of the bumper. previous owners living in the city of San Fransico probably had plenty of love taps.
awesome man, good to see her on the road! so many build threads (mine included unfortunately) contain years and years of tinkering and slow progress, and very little action.
pretty sweet that she passed smog too
-sean
pretty sweet that she passed smog too
-sean
thanks sean ya i see why you want more power now! haha but for now its ok just need to build it from the ground up at this point and once everything else is done ill having to give her some more kick!
I want to take it to auto cross next month and see how it does on the track as for now driving it like a grandma to break in the clutch.
I want to take it to auto cross next month and see how it does on the track as for now driving it like a grandma to break in the clutch.
This project is definitely off to a great start and it's coming along great! I can't wait to see where this leads, definitely going to be a clean FC when it's all said and done
thanks you guys. so only other issue that is really bugging me right now is I cant roll my windows up and down and the drivers is stuck halfway down.... for a while every time i pressed the window switch my seat belts would move. removed door panel.

found this. that is the hot wire to the master window switch all melted.

also melted at the connector from the door harness to the dash harness

so ran power and ground to the motor itself to try and get it to move but no luck. will replace once i can get my hands on one. In the mean time i need to find the the source of why this happened in the first place before i repair the wires themselves.
the previous owner hacked all kinds of wires installing the radio and alarm also have random wires clipped and cross and random wires hanging ...... nightmare

found this. that is the hot wire to the master window switch all melted.

also melted at the connector from the door harness to the dash harness

so ran power and ground to the motor itself to try and get it to move but no luck. will replace once i can get my hands on one. In the mean time i need to find the the source of why this happened in the first place before i repair the wires themselves.
the previous owner hacked all kinds of wires installing the radio and alarm also have random wires clipped and cross and random wires hanging ...... nightmare
Last edited by fc831; Nov 12, 2013 at 01:00 AM.
okay you guys so been really busy lately with work and stuff but was able to get my drivers window up. the motor wasnt working so I took it apart and cleaned the contacts on the motor itself. 
had to roll it up by applying power and ground because when i tried to use the switch, it operates my auto seatbelts!!!!! I'm going to be pulling the dash to check all wiring and fix it all also have to fix my oil pressure gauge i think its damaged due to the little black box (condenser) in the circuit was ripped off and me not doing my research grounded it ... ooops causing my gauge to fail.
had some time to work on it in the shop today. replaced the spark plugs this is how the old ones look.
whoever installed the old ones had the plugs backwards as far as the leading and trailing sides.
replaced the diff oil as well. still need to replace my oil cooler lines but being lazy!
this is how she sits right now!

ill post pics once i start ripping and tearing into all the wiring.

had to roll it up by applying power and ground because when i tried to use the switch, it operates my auto seatbelts!!!!! I'm going to be pulling the dash to check all wiring and fix it all also have to fix my oil pressure gauge i think its damaged due to the little black box (condenser) in the circuit was ripped off and me not doing my research grounded it ... ooops causing my gauge to fail.
had some time to work on it in the shop today. replaced the spark plugs this is how the old ones look.

whoever installed the old ones had the plugs backwards as far as the leading and trailing sides.
replaced the diff oil as well. still need to replace my oil cooler lines but being lazy!
this is how she sits right now!

ill post pics once i start ripping and tearing into all the wiring.
So my reverse lights have not worked since i got the car. Its been a pain backing out of my upward and curving driveway at night without them. Put in new bulbs and still nothing. Also just recently my gauge cluster stopped working as well. Been really busy but made time to get to the bottom of these issues. I traced it to a blown fuse labeled meter. threw in a new one and it blew instantly! looked up the wiring diagram and found that my reverse light switch and my gauge cluster used the same fuse. I found that two of the wires coming from the reverse switch were rubbed through and contacting the transmission. This was shorting that circuit out causing the fuse to blow. I rewired them and popped a fuse in it and my gauges were fixed but my reverse lights would stay on all the time. That narrowed it down to the switch itself being stuck completing the circuit at all times.
got a new one of these bad boys

installed it cleaned up and insulated all the wires and tackled One of the many electrical issues. .... I can probably thank the poly trans mounts I put in for that one.
got a new one of these bad boys

installed it cleaned up and insulated all the wires and tackled One of the many electrical issues. .... I can probably thank the poly trans mounts I put in for that one.
Last edited by fc831; Dec 7, 2013 at 10:31 PM.
hey guys its been a while, I've been really busy but here is a rundown of what I've been up to.
So fixed most of the nightmare electrical problems didnt take pics it wasnt really exciting haha.
Scored a steel braided oil cooler line and swaybar set with adjustable links.
Yanked a clutch type LSD out of a 88 at pic n pull. Seem to lock up fine but while its out I have decided to replace friction discs and washers.
this is what its looking like so far (just the tear down.)


Want a real nice lock up!
Recently hit the 200k mark on my car. Shes starting to smoke pretty bad at start up especially after i let it sit for a day or two it takes a while to stop. also at high rpm it will dump pumps of blue smoke so i believe its about time for a rebuild.
I scored a free s4 13b off someone on the norcal rotary club page on facebook! previous owner described the same smoking that i am encountering on mine. my plan is to rebuild the s4 keg street port it and drop it in my s5..... then pull my s5 keg and rebuild and boost it.
DISCLAIMER!!! I'm not a rotary expert so if you have any knowledgeable advice or opinions let me know and please correct me if im wrong!
beginning of my first rebuild
here it is after removing manifolds and most lines and hoses

t-chain cover off

so found that the outer oil control ring spring was broken in 3 spots and there looks like a burnt spot on the side of the rotor in the picture. Could this be the source of the smoking? please give my your opinion

between the parts washer and my home brew tub of brake clean, degreaser , and fuel system cleaner/decarber everything is cleaning up pretty good.

tomorrow or the next day ill post pics after inspect everything while its clean and get your guys opinions on reusable parts.
on a side note my buddy gave me some "*****" energy drinks dont know if i should be offended or flattered haha.
So fixed most of the nightmare electrical problems didnt take pics it wasnt really exciting haha.
Scored a steel braided oil cooler line and swaybar set with adjustable links.
Yanked a clutch type LSD out of a 88 at pic n pull. Seem to lock up fine but while its out I have decided to replace friction discs and washers.
this is what its looking like so far (just the tear down.)


Want a real nice lock up!
Recently hit the 200k mark on my car. Shes starting to smoke pretty bad at start up especially after i let it sit for a day or two it takes a while to stop. also at high rpm it will dump pumps of blue smoke so i believe its about time for a rebuild.
I scored a free s4 13b off someone on the norcal rotary club page on facebook! previous owner described the same smoking that i am encountering on mine. my plan is to rebuild the s4 keg street port it and drop it in my s5..... then pull my s5 keg and rebuild and boost it.
DISCLAIMER!!! I'm not a rotary expert so if you have any knowledgeable advice or opinions let me know and please correct me if im wrong!
beginning of my first rebuild
here it is after removing manifolds and most lines and hoses

t-chain cover off

so found that the outer oil control ring spring was broken in 3 spots and there looks like a burnt spot on the side of the rotor in the picture. Could this be the source of the smoking? please give my your opinion

between the parts washer and my home brew tub of brake clean, degreaser , and fuel system cleaner/decarber everything is cleaning up pretty good.

tomorrow or the next day ill post pics after inspect everything while its clean and get your guys opinions on reusable parts.
on a side note my buddy gave me some "*****" energy drinks dont know if i should be offended or flattered haha.
hey bud, didn't i tell you that you were gonna be itching to get some power soon? ha ha
it's nice that you have another engine to play with, i found it was much cheaper pulling everything apart and ordering exactly what i needed piece by piece rather than just getting a generic rebuild kit. that way you can pick and choose exactly what parts/brands you want for specific things (for instance i went with atkins for most everything except the apex seals. i got rotary aviation apex seals, but tossed the ra apex springs in the garbage and used the atkins springs).. getting into the brand loyalty/quality/reputation argument is a long and frustrating process, and it's been done a million times before. i suggest searching and reading a few different discussions about what parts and building techniques people use and comparing the pros and cons for yourself, figure out what brands have qualities that you deem important and giv'er.
as far as the build plan, i would personally just skip the intermediate step and build that s4 keg for boost now. both engines are n/a, so both will have higher compression rotors than the turbo engines (more prone to detonation/knock, can't take as much boost, however will produce more power at a given boost level). i'm not sure about the n/a engines but i believe the late vin s5 turbo engines had thicker and stronger irons than s4 engines, so if your s5 is a 91 i would check into that because your best bet may be to frankenstein the 2 motors.
the reason i say that instead of just 'build the s5 engine' is that the s4 has a mechanical omp. if you're not looking to premix 2-stroke style, i would definitely rather have the mechanical omp than the s5 electric. most aftermarket ecu's will require 1-2 valuable output circuits just to control the s5 omp, meaning you have fewer options available to you when setting up how the car runs and what is controlled automatically with the new fancy ecu. i don't know how deep you plan on getting into a turbo build and if you're even considering a standalone setup, but i have done the half-assed turbo build thing before and while it was fun i should have just done it proper the first time.
n/a turbo builds are not as common as just getting a turbo swap and starting from there, and they definitely need a lot more care and customization, but i've seen a few done VERY successfully, that have made good power for a long time.
a member here (aaroncake) has a whole blog-type step-by-step thing on turbocharging a 6-port n/a FC (as well as a really good rotary engine rebuild video on youtube). tracking that down would be a great read and watch for you
keep up the good work man, it seems like you've made more progress this moth than i've made in a year ha ha
-sean
it's nice that you have another engine to play with, i found it was much cheaper pulling everything apart and ordering exactly what i needed piece by piece rather than just getting a generic rebuild kit. that way you can pick and choose exactly what parts/brands you want for specific things (for instance i went with atkins for most everything except the apex seals. i got rotary aviation apex seals, but tossed the ra apex springs in the garbage and used the atkins springs).. getting into the brand loyalty/quality/reputation argument is a long and frustrating process, and it's been done a million times before. i suggest searching and reading a few different discussions about what parts and building techniques people use and comparing the pros and cons for yourself, figure out what brands have qualities that you deem important and giv'er.
as far as the build plan, i would personally just skip the intermediate step and build that s4 keg for boost now. both engines are n/a, so both will have higher compression rotors than the turbo engines (more prone to detonation/knock, can't take as much boost, however will produce more power at a given boost level). i'm not sure about the n/a engines but i believe the late vin s5 turbo engines had thicker and stronger irons than s4 engines, so if your s5 is a 91 i would check into that because your best bet may be to frankenstein the 2 motors.
the reason i say that instead of just 'build the s5 engine' is that the s4 has a mechanical omp. if you're not looking to premix 2-stroke style, i would definitely rather have the mechanical omp than the s5 electric. most aftermarket ecu's will require 1-2 valuable output circuits just to control the s5 omp, meaning you have fewer options available to you when setting up how the car runs and what is controlled automatically with the new fancy ecu. i don't know how deep you plan on getting into a turbo build and if you're even considering a standalone setup, but i have done the half-assed turbo build thing before and while it was fun i should have just done it proper the first time.
n/a turbo builds are not as common as just getting a turbo swap and starting from there, and they definitely need a lot more care and customization, but i've seen a few done VERY successfully, that have made good power for a long time.
a member here (aaroncake) has a whole blog-type step-by-step thing on turbocharging a 6-port n/a FC (as well as a really good rotary engine rebuild video on youtube). tracking that down would be a great read and watch for you
keep up the good work man, it seems like you've made more progress this moth than i've made in a year ha ha
-sean
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