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Have you checked the plugs for wear? both fuel filters been checked? timing been verified with a timing light? It could be a dying leading coil pack. I dont think the trailing coil pack has much effect besides emissions. It appears to idle fine, and makes power...The misfire leads me to think its an ignition sort of thing.
P.S. That lip is perfect!!!
thanks driftsequence! closer scrutiny did reveal the seam where i had glued the lips together but you really have to be looking for it. on the whole im really pleased with it
i actually wasnt aware that there were 2 fuel filters! i shall have to check that out. i just bought and installed MSD coils so thats eliminated. the old ones were a bit leaky and i noticed an increase in power once the new ones were in, the old ones may have exacerbated the symptoms a little but wasnt the complete solution. timing is spot on and i am 100% sure that the TPS is ok. (it sits at 1k ohms when in a resting position and goes up to 5.5k ohms when fully depressed. i have checked this several times) the alternator checked out fine plus i have left it into my local shop to be checked and they gave it the ok. plus i have new msd cables except for the ones from the distributor to the coils and they are magnacore. the idle is ok once warmed up but when cold started the idle bounces, (sometimes almost threatening to cut out) and i get the odd 2-3 rhythmic pops from the exhaust now and again which also stops once warmed up. the exhaust gases still reek to high heaven she is running richie rich
in addition i have swapped out the mass air meter (again) just to check and the water temperature sensor that sits in the water pump housing checked out fine.
i cleaned the plugs recently about 2 weeks ago and i have taken her for short journeys maybe 5 times since then. i removed the plugs today actually becouse she flooded (she floods if i dont turn the engine off by revving her up and removing the fuse to the fuel pump. it had stopped doing it for quite a while but it satrted doing it again for some reason) and i noticed that they had been coated quite heavily with carbon due to the crappy fuel mixture. im wondering if they are screwed. i bought new ones when i installed the rebuilt engine but it has flooded a myriad of times since then. i am wondering if they can foul permanently?
the only possible weak link i can think of is the distributor. i have searched a fair bit on the net but not found any correlation between that and hesitations but its the only part of the ignition system that i havent changed/renovated. i remember in the very beginning of this build thread that i took a wire wheel to the points of the distributor because they had a bit of oxidisation on them. joel had warned me to be careful when doing this but im not sure if my idea of careful basicly wasnt..
i am free from work and school at the moment but i mostly have to wait until i put the little one to bed whereby i sit up until the early hours reading and reading and reading to try and figure out what could be the problem. even though this is a bit of a frustrating and even boring part of the build, i notice, when searching for information on this forum or reading other peoples build threads that my knowledge of the 13b has become much more intimate compared to when i first started this thread. i could literally liken it to when i first moved to sweden and couldnt understand a word of what anyone was saying. at least i can now say that i understand english, swedish and 13b'ish that said there is still so much to learn.
all this reading has given me naughty thoughts and has made me think about the fact that i have 2 unused garret 2860 A/R 6064 (hks 2530 equivalent) turbos sitting in my cellar plus a hks evc. i think ill be keeping one of the turbos at least this would shave a fair bit off of the cost of a later turbo upgrade.. (one hears the faint strains of the song "dream on, dreamer" in the background)
the only thing i have gotten done this week was adjusting that annoying rev buzzer. i found a coupe of threads explaining that there was an adjustment behind the tachometer so i whipped her out and adjusted it, put it all back together, realised that i had adjusted it in the wrong flippin direction and had to do it all over again, this time adjusting it all the way in the opposite direction. it was buzzing at 6500rpm and i personally found it extremely irritating. i have literally wanted to do this since getting the car.
what i have been meaning to do and what what has been the main focus of my nightly reading the last couple of days has been backprobing the ecu. i know that it has been suggested to me earlier in the thread but to be honest it scared the absolute bejeezus out of me so i didnt dare. i thought i was quite a clever boy when i found the correct schematics to my n322 euro-specific ecu only to realise that i would need to know what i am supposed to be checking for. as far as i understand i should be checking for a certain ohm/volt value when the engine is cold as opposed to when at working temperature to verify that its getting the correct signals from the various sensors but i have not yet succeeded in finding a list and i havent found such a list in my manual either.. anyone that can help out with this?
i cannot express how tiresome it is that i just cant seem to work this problem out. i have considered getting a standalone (namely a haltech platinum sprint re) but i honestly dont see why i shouldnt be able to get it to run as it should using the stock engine management. my modifications have been modest to say the least..
1 filter is in tank, 1 is in the engine bay right under the brake master cylinder. if its overly rich thats definitely not the problem, a clogged filter would cause it run lean, not rich. TPS cant be the problem because the TPS is only used for light throttle conditions, at WOT it isnt used and the ECU goes into open loop and reads its table and MAP/AFM values. There is a mini-sand blasting tool that is supposed to help clean the carbon off plugs. I'm sure something along the lines of a pipe cleaner would work as well. Worn out plugs will have a rounded bullet shaped electrode in the middle.
I forget, but has the motor been rebuilt? There is a silly issue with S4/S5 rx7s where mazda used different engine pulleys because each had slightly different amounts of timing. They moved the spark plug holes up or down the housing 5 mm I believe? and as such the TDC marks needed moved. Doubtful thats your issue, but I figure I'd bring it up. I would mark where your distributor is with a scribe or something, and then adjust a little bit to the left and maybe a little more and see how it changes, and then go back to center and try the same thing to the right. Free troubleshooting
Also, which way does the buzzer need to be turned to turn it up? Mine comes on at 6500 and I'd like to turn it up to 7500 and use it as a "shift light"
Last edited by driftxsequence; 07-31-15 at 08:25 AM.
I forget, but has the motor been rebuilt? There is a silly issue with S4/S5 rx7s where mazda used different engine pulleys because each had slightly different amounts of timing. They moved the spark plug holes up or down the housing 5 mm I believe? and as such the TDC marks needed moved. Doubtful thats your issue, but I figure I'd bring it up. I would mark where your distributor is with a scribe or something, and then adjust a little bit to the left and maybe a little more and see how it changes, and then go back to center and try the same thing to the right. Free troubleshooting
Also, which way does the buzzer need to be turned to turn it up? Mine comes on at 6500 and I'd like to turn it up to 7500 and use it as a "shift light"
the motor has been rebuilt and im pretty sure the guy who did it used the pulley that i gave him. i remember reading about this issue with the different timing marks its definately worth a try! problems like these are usually something simple..
once i removed the tach, i removed the front plastic by taking off the 5 screws to get to the rev counter. removed the needle using 2 spoons ( a nice little trick i found on some other forum) then removed the 2 very small screws holding the tach "plate" thingy with the numbers on it. you should then see a little circuit board on the top of the actual tachometer unit. if i recall correctly the metal adjustment is on the right. from what i read you MUST NOT adjust the plastic one. if you turn it from the inside (between the plastic and metal pots), turn it clockwise. i read that every quarter turn is equivalent to 500 rpm or so but i just turned it all the way up. i hope my explanation was ok
i had also considered using a shift light but i usually keep an eye on the rev counter so it sufficed for me to get rid of the annoying sound the link below may help.
if i had half your skills i would have solved this already AND have completed a turbo build by now .
not much has happened with the 7 as of late, my biggest barrier being funds.. or the distinct lack of them that comes with being a student. that said, adult education is free and i get benefits paid to me every month so im very appreciative of the fact that there are provisions that i can better my income.
robban came back from his summer vacation and me and my welder buddy went over to have a look at the wheels. although not the prettiest weld he had ever seen im sure, he didnt see why they wouldnt hold. there was one of the wheels that he didnt like the look of so he marked up the places i should redo. as if it wasnt enough helping me out with the wheels, after explaining my engine issues to him he picked up his phone staright away and called a friend of his that he studied with in university that had specialised in combustion engines. he told us that we could come right over and he had a good old look and did a little diagnosis (based on a perusal over the engine while it was running, a test drive and a bunch of questions) everything seemed fine to him but he thought that i should try to change the secondary injectors back to original ones.
as if this wasnt enough, my buddy spoke to his boss the next day and got me a placement as an intern on a dry dock right in the middle of stockholm!
the view isnt too shabby eh? (i have a feeling winters wont be as nice though )
anyway, my old injectors were totally effed and new ones are shockingly expensive so i tried to look for some other alternatives. volvo and ford have some injectors that are roughly the same size and low impedance. naturally i thought "well i live in sweden sooo imma look for volvo injectors". it actually wasnt that easy. i spoke to joels younger brother (who works as a mechanic at volvo) to have a little look. instead he told me that nissan skyline injectors are 440cc and low impedance! and geuss who has a dissambled rb26dett in his cellar? oh yeah.
the trouble is, i found every part of my rb26, EXCEPT for my bloody injectors. i dont know if they have gone walkies amongst all the garage moving chaos or if theyre still down there laughing at me in some little corner. ill have another look during the week.
i finally got a little bit of money so i have ordered a distributor cap and rotor from atkins plus some intake gaskets so that i can finally get on with porting my intake. i was a little worried about the wheels maybe having some microscopic leak somewhere amongst all those ugly welds and i read on a couple of forums that people highly recommend this stuff called "tiger seal" which they put over the welds to make sure that they are airtight so i ordered a couple of tubes of that too.
fortunately i was able to find it on the same land-mass upon which i reside for once so that should be coming first. you may expect a little wheel update over the next week or so. still no tyres though so ill be trying to scrounge some money together for them in the meantime..
tiger seal arrived this morning. hats off to lackman for very speedy service! the idea is that when i am happy with the welds i will seal them up with this stuff. on the forums that i have read this came highly recommended. "bonds to a wide range of materials, is non shrinking and permanently flexible" thats what it says on the tube anyway. ill be having a go at the wheels tomorrow morning before school.
My tiger sprung a leak and that stuff worked great but it never occurred to me it'd work on wheels.
Congratulations for thinking outside the (species) box.
Now that the <STRIKE>imaginary</STRIKE> wheels have nearly reached <STRIKE>imaginary</STRIKE> completion, what <STRIKE>fictional</STRIKE> color/finish do you plan on applying?
My tiger sprung a leak and that stuff worked great but it never occurred to me it'd work on wheels.
Congratulations for thinking outside the (species) box.
Now that the <STRIKE>imaginary</STRIKE> wheels have nearly reached <STRIKE>imaginary</STRIKE> completion, what <STRIKE>fictional</STRIKE> color/finish do you plan on applying?
And yes, Stockholm does look very charming.
well you know i thought "four legs, four wheels, its practically the same thing"..
stockholm does indeed look charming during the summer. all 3 days of it
it was a blazing hot day today, and still is as i write. i actually managed to get my lazy butt out of bed this morning and get over to robbans workshop at 8. i was supposed to go to school at 12:30 but i was enjoying myself so much that i played hookey. the course im doing at the moment can be done at home on my own pc and because it counts as an exam the teacher is not allowed to help me with it anyway. basicly, it wasnt hard to convince myself not to go. re-welding the places that my mate had marked up went surprisingly quickly so i started cleaning up the wheels. spent some time grinding down the welds a bit and then start working on cleaning up the "seeable" parts of the wheels. i had originally thought to do this by hand. all i can say is HA! to that. it literally would have taken me a million years. the guys at his workshop (including his dad who's the owner) were really helpful and as soon as i asked for advice how i was going to solve something i found some kind of tool or machine being placed in my hands! by the end of the day i was down to sanding everything down. i even did a little test on one of the wheels to see how it would turn out.. and it was not too bad at all! basicly considering my financial situation i have decided to just spray em up myself and redo do them if i feel the need when i start earning proper wages again.
i really want them in matt black but i need some kind of hardy paint to spray em and the only thing i could think of is hammerite and that comes in shiny black. but it is cheap and cheerful..... and black. plastidip maybe? anyway heres some pics.. (elmo yaaaaaay!)
the test was done using 2 coats of some generic black paint without any primer and to be honest you would really have to be quite close to see any of the scruffy bits..(oh yes. there are scruffy bits). im going to use a bit of filler on some bits tomorrow and finish off sanding then i reckon im good to go. any paint/filler/getting my hands on some matt black paint suggestions are welcome! considering how long its taken for my imaginary wheels to actually exist, ill admit im getting a little bit excited about all this
Wheels should be satin (not flat, satin, dammit!) black and you need some chrome mini-Moon center caps.
In the center of each disc will be a letter; "A" on the lefthand side and "B" on the right.
This will help keep track when rotating wheels but more importantly, honors your cultural heritage by spelling "ABBA" for all to see.
This may entitle you to a tax rebate of some sort, which, when coupled with the IKEA sponsorship, should significantly defray your project costs.
Wheels should be satin (not flat, satin, dammit!) black and you need some chrome mini-Moon center caps.
In the center of each disc will be a letter; "A" on the lefthand side and "B" on the right.
This will help keep track when rotating wheels but more importantly, honors your cultural heritage by spelling "ABBA" for all to see.
This may entitle you to a tax rebate of some sort, which, when coupled with the IKEA sponsorship, should significantly defray your project costs.
apropos the moon caps, this is one of those moments where i could kick myself. the problem is im not from sweden, i just live here. thusly, to be able to create a subtle referance to my cultural heritage i would need way more letters. and i dont know if i would be able to bring myself to decide between barry manilow or cliff richard. (plus being half jamaican and half english, this would put bob marley into the equation..well you get the idea..) its just not possible. plus i dont really fancy having any chrome on the 7. the look would deviate way too much from what i had originally intended.
god i sound like sheldon cooper..
thanks for the tips on satin though. i would definately like to go for that! i know black shows up imperfections no matter what, im just wondering what would show them up least of all. im hoping i can draw on your experience with the fairlady Z.
what turning out to be a real problem is that i have no proper car painting equipment. (had a garage with a painting booth and all the goodies for about a year and never really had the chance to take advantage of it. i really wish i had repainted the seven then.)
my point is that when reading about painting in general, people always say that 1 component paint in spray cans isnt any good. everybody bangs on about 2 component paint but as far as i understand i cant get anything that would be good in cans. i basicly planned to spray em up in my front garden. i just want to get them as nice as i can as cheaply as possible but i dont want it all to flake off after a couple of weeks. this is basicly why hammerite is a big temptation for me.
i had originally thought to use the hammerite that you paint on with a brush on all surfaces that cannot be seen (because its supposed to be better than the hammerite that comes in cans) and then take the faces with hammerite. it doesnt come in satin or matte though. as per usual i am in a quandry as to what to do..
in summary..
1. to be able to do this in my front garden (spray and then protect with a cardboard box whilst drying)
2. i want the paint to be preferably satin black but be tough.
2. i want the paint to be preferably satin black but be tough.
3. as cheap as possible.
Obviously, powdercoating is what you actually want but it violates two of your three strictures, so we'll ignore that for now.
The problem with aerosol paints is that the less gloss, the less "toughness".
Flat black is essentially primer and will absorb crud and show minor scuffs...not good.
Satin is more durable but the definition of "satin" is wildly variable and you have to try different brands to find the one you like. My personal fave paints come from SEM but it's unlikely that brand is available in your socialist hellhole, so I dunno what to tell you.
considering the amount of time i have spent waiting on the wheels, i reckon i could wait a little longer. i thought that since im going to be doing my internship at the drydock, which has a rather large painting both there, i reckoned i might be able to get a little help/advice from them. i really want the paint to hold. plus i cant see myself getting tyres in the near future considering i gave the money i had almost got together for them to the police the day before yesterday.
speeding tickets suck.
i received my bits and bobs from atkins today and opened the box to see that my distributor cap and rotor were from... bosch. yes the same bosch that comes from the country that i could literally drive to in a day
i dont know how i missed that..
i popped em in anyway and had a little drive around. she definately seemed alot smoother but the hesitations after 4k rpm remain.
i have my gaskets now at least so i thought i might as well pop off the intake and get the match porting done when im at robbans workshop next.
its not all doom and gloom though. today is my birthday. (the word "birthday" basicly should be renamed to "being able to drink as much as you want without getting in trouble for it".....day) it is also me and my rx7's 4th anniversary! yay!
another important event coming up on monday is that my little girl will be starting playschool. (which should be renamed to "daddy getting to work on his car without getting in trouble for it") yay for uma! (and me )
If there's anyway to sneak your wheels into their paintbooth and gun on some marine grade paint, color would be irrelevant. Get a nice tough basecoat on there, then Plastidip 'em black (or just spray on some regular matte...both are super easy to touch up (and in Plastidip's case, easy to completely remove) and the base metal is well protected.
The same day your little dumpling starts school, I have jury duty.
Not sure which I'd rather be doing.
the moon caps look sick on the hotrod were damn sexy ill give ya that clokker!
thanks for the birthday wishes guys! my age is definately starting to show considering i only managed to drink 6 stouts and a whiskey before i was almost nodding off.. i hope getting older means i get better at something because it doesnt apply to skateboarding and apparently not drinking either.
bit of an unexpected day today..
i went to the drydock this morning for my first day as an intern. after the morning rocket fuel (coffee), i went and found the painters to get a little bit of advice on my wheels. one of them, a very nice lad from gothenburg or thereabouts judging by his accent, went with me to car to have a look at them.
i showed him the wheels and started explaining that i was thinking about brushing on some hammerite on the unnoticeable bits. he said i would have to sand blast them to which i replied that they had already been sandblasted. he was like "well ill have to do them again" and within a couple of minutes he had chucked them on his golf cart and buggered off with them to the straining tones of my profuse thanks..
i got on with the tasks appointed to me by the electricians and after a while the coffee had done its work as a potent diuretic and it was time to relieve myself..
whilst on the way to the loo i heard someone call over to me and it was the same fella. "come and have a look at your wheels" he said and started walking over to a rather large building.. (actually he said "häng på jag tänkte visa dej dina fälgar" )
that is some kind of industrial marine primer stuff. he said that he had used it on his steelies and they were still good after 2 years and considering they are sitting right by seawater everyday thats a pretty good sign! he said he'll have em done in a week or so with some matte black and was more than happy to take a case of beer in payment. and yet again my little project has been nudged toward completion by the kindness of others.
faith in humanity, restored
im really hoping that i can get a job here when i finish my studies it would definately have alot of perks!
i had to look hard at the date i havent had an update for a while..
i sorted out some 460cc brown tops from ebay about a week or so ago so the hood went up on the seven for the first time in weeks. the idea was to match port the intake so i took the whole thing off and i started a thread here to find out what i could do. got some very good info from the club members and ended up just cleaning them up a bit and popping it all on today, now with stock injectors all round.
warmed her up a bit and then went for a spin. i thought for a minute that the problem was solved but as per usual, nice try but no cigar. she seems a bit better but the hesitate/misfire problem still remains. so i gave her a wash and left her to enjoy the rest of what was a chilly autumn afternoon whilst i went in and dusted off the drawing board. again.
and there she sits..
i actually felt a bit depressed about it for a bit, but i had a think and realised that an rx7 doesnt care how much i think i "deserve" to succeed in fixing it, itll be fixed when i find the problem. browsing the troubleshooting section in the manual gave me some more leads so ill crack on with what time i have left before it is time to hibernate..
i had thought to wait for the second coat but the painter has had alot on so i thought what the hell.. heres a couple snaps of the steelies in black. at least i didnt come completely empty handed eh?
by the way i forgot to mention that i was out with a very nice chap i met at a car meet during the summer that has a very nice example of a euro 6 port that as far as i know is stock apart from a full RB exhaust. we met up for a coffee and a chat and then took the 7's out. first his then mine.
'scuse my french but **** me.
there was a BIG difference between his and mine! that is to say his went like a song and mine went like a death rattle in comparison.. definately more to be squeezed out of this seven of mine i tewya..
I'm still getting over the fact that you said 70-77 was blazing hot!! That's winter time here in Texas lol... Nice car man! Cant wait to see what the wheels look like on the car.
07-30-15, 05:29 PM
that said there is still so much to learn. 
the link below may help.
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