I was going to suggest a viking funeral

 

the horn bracket was the most fab work i've had to do!

 

hmm, maybe that's a good idea for the paint scheme

 

I have a S5 auto counterweight. Will be taking it off the car this weekend...maybe even tomorrow if my flywheel is done being resurfaced.. Trans is out, ready to pop it off. If interested then pm me.

 

Wow what a crazy deadline! I was thinking about doing the same swap to my 86 someday. Definitely will be watching this one.

 

yeah! the only hope is that i'm recycling a lot, and i did do a lot of mock ups, so for the most part its just assembly

if you do the REW-FC, make it so you can use FC engine mounts, mine uses FD engine mounts. the FC engine mounts are like $30 new and the FD mounts are like $350 each new...

 

The Lady of the Lake,
[angels sing]
her arm clad in the purest shimmering samite, held aloft Excalibur
from the bosom of the water signifying by Divine Providence that I,
Arthur, was to carry Excalibur.

so i took Excalibur and chopped down the 3rd biggest transmission in the forest.

 

I'd like the location of that forest.

 

so with 11 days left, i have the engine and trans mated, although they still need to hop in the car, preferably by themselves. then i need to plumb everything, although it should be pretty straightforward.

then i need to figure out what wiring/ecu to use, 2013 seems to have all the smog techs spooked, so i might need to label all the emissions devices 60's batman style. i have both S5 and FD ecu and harnesses, i'm just undecided if its easier to adapt S5 harness to FD engine and ECU, or FD harness to S5 body.

i have new bearings for the front hubs that need to be installed @greased. i found the front sway bar, but i'm missing the brackets, like the rear CW they are somewhere! a search for an S5 CW turned up THREE in the shop... although with 650 front springs (the softest we had laying around!), maybe i don't need a swaybar or suspension arms that move

then i don't have a dashboard, my steering wheel is missing, the outside of the car is still dust bunnies...

there is a shelf full of turbo parts, but its literally parts. since i'm short on time, and the smog techs are spooked, i may just stay NA for the moment, i do have the T2 and NA stock exhausts

and then?

i had grand plans for a plywood front splitter, nothing crazy, but its gonna need something down there, and the Greddy IC makes the stock undertray impossible

i also had plans to fit my Volk Group C's on there, but i didn't get the adapter so it needs to be made....

and then?

PS, i wanna keep that, so getting the FC rack to mate with either the FD or FC pump and belt setup will be fun.

 

lol! TIM: To the north there lies a cave -- the cave of Kyre Banorg --
wherein, carved in mystic runes upon the very living rock, the last
words of Ulfin Bedweer of Regett [boom] proclaim the last resting
place of the most Holy Grail.

 

aAAAaaaaaand skipping a bunch of pics

 

Do the OMP's swap between the two blocks? How bout will the S5 OMP play well with an FD ecu? If not, looks like it'll have to be an FD omp/ecu. Then on to figuring out how to make the ecu happy without all the extra solenoids and controls.

edit: I guess this is just for using stock ecu. An Rtek/PFC should make it fully functional.

 

i need to break the books out, but the hardware is all stock FD, so the ECU was gonna be stock FD too. although if i get really tight for time i can do an S5 NA.

i was initially going to build a little resistor block to simulate the solenoids i'm not using, but in light of the smog situation i might just put all the solenoids in, and just not have the vacuum connected to the ones i'm not using. either way the ECU needs to run the car with no CEL's.

 

so today's update. monday.

i cut the hole for the only IC pipe that needs a hole cut, installed it to find it hits the PS loop AND the horn, so i had to relocate those AGAIN.

then i dropped a nut down the intake, so the lower intake (which went on yesterday) had to come off. the nut was right in the port, but still.

so then i just decided to change venues, and start repacking the front hubs. so i had one repacked, installed the seal, crooked.

so with seal 2, i used the floor to put it in straight, and somehow it still ended up crooked!

seal #3 is better, but still not right, wtf!

tomorrow i'll try my OEM seals.... if i go! i'm tired

still on the list are oil cooler hoses, i have stock FD and stock FC, but i need like a FCD or something, turbo, exhaust, there are two wires that run into the frame rail and go ????

 

Some days you eat the bear, some days he takes a giant crap in your Cheerios.
(I dropped something in my LIM too...it was infuriating. Much easier to remove/install that manifold with the engine out, I discovered.)

How and where do the cooler lines mate to the block?

And...I was just all over my bay and there are no stock wires that run in the framerail.
That should be interesting.

 

these two wires were definitely added, i don't recall seeing them when the rear suspension was apart though, so well i guess the mystery is still mysterious!

the front cooler line is in the normal spot, but the FD uses a banjo bolt, so its a different thread. in the rear the fitting is on the oil filter pedestal, so its longer. the stock FD rear line is a pipe, that goes to a quick disconnect, then goes to whatever the FD has. the quick disconnects are neat http://mazdatrix.com/b6.htm about halfway down. instead of the PITA the FC has, its 2 clips on the FD/Rx8

the maximum work answer is that my vert needs oil cooler lines, and this car had good ones, but i think i will take a set of lines and cut the flexible stuff and use the earls hose Earl's Performance Super Stock Hose 791008ERL - SummitRacing.com

i COULD go AN lines, but i hate em

 

How is the Earl's hose held on the hardline?

 

if you use the earls fitting, its got a couple of barbs, and then we put a hose clamp on just to feel like we did something, but the only way to get it off is to cut it. we've run it on the race car for years, its more flexible than the stainless braided stuff, and it doesn't act like a saw either

 

pics! ok so i was going to use the E30 BMW mounts, but that giant tit sticking out had nowhere to go on any of the mazda parts, so i switched to stock FC mounts. the big diameter of these means i needed to grind em a little for clearance, as the subframe isn't flat right there!

 

more from yesterday, its started growing a turbo, i've been watering it, and giving it plenty of sunlight

i'm going to start with a stock S4 because the manifold has an EGT bung, so i can do egt and then back pressure, the plan is to start stock, and then do the H compressor, and then the V compressor and see what the car wants, kind of like howard colemans turbo test, but in miniature. Mine has probably take as long as his already...

car on the ground! just for inspiration, and it was up way too high to work on, and now its too low! its like knee high, for the ricers the coil overs are up as high as they will go, for everyone else, i need a longer spring.... my suspension spreadsheet, which isn't dialed 100% yet, says i need about 1.5" of travel @1G, and then i want to add another 1.5" for bumps. i know from previous f-ing around that the first thing to bottom out in the front is the tire hitting the upper frame, and actually where it sits right now is close to 3" from the tire to the frame, so its actually about where i want it, it is f-ing slammed though.

camber is -4.6 all the way around too

next radiator hose mockups, i think its fine, right?

 

even more. i moved the light, and the lighting got neat!

 

man, that thing is quickly beginning to look like a car. be careful or you may inspire others to get off their ***.

 

I think the hose install will introduce a lot of highly desirable "spiral flow" to the coolant and we all know that increases horsepower.

Kudos on using every obscure trick in the book.

 

^ LOL

i caught that, too. sneaky bugger, isn't he?

 

lmao! it was at the end of the day, and well i was tired, and it was funny... i think i need one of those gauge sender holder things, so i can cut the hose and rotate it in the center... the lower hose doesn't fit at all either