eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
#26
Passion for Racing
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 1,066
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Let me know if you like your Godspeed, because I found the guys who make godspeed's stuff, and sell it considerably cheaper. $120 for the same exact radiator, so if it's good enough, i'm getting it.
#27
I got mine on ebay for like $180 as a temporary fix. I plan on selling it soon, but would rather get more than $120 for it... don't tell anyone about your secret source lol
Originally Posted by He's On Toroids
You should come back
I'll come to 1 or 2.
#33
at the same time I wrapped my down pipe:
and put a blanket on the turbo:
all this was mostly in response to one of my bosch 1680cc secondary injectors cracking down the side... which I can only imagine was due to extreme heat (it was the rear injector) I replaced them with injector dynamics 2200cc injectors which are also pricey... so I didn't want to loose one of those to heat also, especially since I'm going to start tracking the car...
#34
The above picture reminded me...
last year the o-rings between my block and intake manifold that supply coolant to the turbo started to fail:
I finally knew where the puddle of coolant between the block and manifold was coming from
I had threaded and blocked off the rear coolant nipple with a 1/4" plug prior:
(see this thread: (https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...t-iron-941657/)
so I decided to block off the coolant passages with 20mm brass freeze plugs and just run the coolant line from the rear iron:
I tried running the line out the front to stay away from the exhaust.... but the fitting hit the upper intake manifold... so it's running out the back now. I'll switch it when I switch to an FD UIM:
last year the o-rings between my block and intake manifold that supply coolant to the turbo started to fail:
I finally knew where the puddle of coolant between the block and manifold was coming from
I had threaded and blocked off the rear coolant nipple with a 1/4" plug prior:
(see this thread: (https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...t-iron-941657/)
so I decided to block off the coolant passages with 20mm brass freeze plugs and just run the coolant line from the rear iron:
I tried running the line out the front to stay away from the exhaust.... but the fitting hit the upper intake manifold... so it's running out the back now. I'll switch it when I switch to an FD UIM:
#46
unfortunately wheels above 17x10 or 18x10.5 start to get really expensive....
the spacers are more to fix the fact the the wheels have the wrong offset...
Current wheels and tires I have in the garage for the new fenders:
street/track wheels:
17x10 FN01R-Cs w/ 315/35/17 NT01s
autocross wheels:
18x10.5 RPF1s w/ 315/30/18 Hoosier A6s.
Might switch to 285/30/18 A6s in the front (shorter and a better fit for 10.5" wheels) depending on how the test fit and this weekend goes.
the spacers are more to fix the fact the the wheels have the wrong offset...
Current wheels and tires I have in the garage for the new fenders:
street/track wheels:
17x10 FN01R-Cs w/ 315/35/17 NT01s
autocross wheels:
18x10.5 RPF1s w/ 315/30/18 Hoosier A6s.
Might switch to 285/30/18 A6s in the front (shorter and a better fit for 10.5" wheels) depending on how the test fit and this weekend goes.
#50
street wheels:
They're currently bronze on one side and black on the other
I test fit the r-comps last night and they look better, but my phone ran out of batteries before I got and decent pictures (if you can even call the above decent). I have 2 days worth of autocross this weekend so I'll try to get some good shots of both sets in some decent light.
I think the body work turned out awesome.
They're currently bronze on one side and black on the other
I test fit the r-comps last night and they look better, but my phone ran out of batteries before I got and decent pictures (if you can even call the above decent). I have 2 days worth of autocross this weekend so I'll try to get some good shots of both sets in some decent light.
I think the body work turned out awesome.